Car won't start troubleshooting

I would certainly make sure that you have 12v from the + side of the battery to ground. Then I would work your way in from there. The fuses on the top of the battery, the fuse panel, etc.

The good thing about your situation is that it is catastrophic, and likely just one thing, so when you find that you can fix it.

I just went through a major hunt down with AC, and you can PM me if you want a little near real-time coaching. Sorry I didn't see this until late Sunday.

97 Passat TDI ignition switch

Where can i find a 97 Passat TDI ignition switch replacment procedure?

Car won't start, fuel pump isn't working.

I'm new here so I'm hoping I'm posting this question in the right spot, if not I apologize. I recently changed the clutch in my 2000 Jetta, drove it about 40 miles and the engine died. I realized it wasn't getting fuel, has 3/4 tank of fuel. I changed the fuel filter and that didn't work so I checked the fuel pump to find out it wasn't coming on but getting power so I changed the fuel pump and still nothing. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, changed the 109 relay and it's still not starting. It will smoke a little but won't start. Any help will be appreciated.

Another no start due to a bad Crank position sensor.

This one due to Old/ poor insulation on the sensors wiring. [/IMG]

Dwight1972 said:

I'm new here so I'm hoping I'm posting this question in the right spot, if not I apologize. I recently changed the clutch in my 2000 Jetta, drove it about 40 miles and the engine died. I realized it wasn't getting fuel, has 3/4 tank of fuel. I changed the fuel filter and that didn't work so I checked the fuel pump to find out it wasn't coming on but getting power so I changed the fuel pump and still nothing. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, changed the 109 relay and it's still not starting. It will smoke a little but won't start. Any help will be appreciated.

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Did you bleed the fuel filter? You didn't mention it so I thought I would ask rather than assume that you did.

No, I normally turn the key on a couple of times and let the fuel pump do that but with the fuel pump not kicking on I wasn't able too.

The key on trick only works on the 2006. The 2000 does not have a fuel pump in the tank. You need to suck fuel from the tank through the filter, then through the pump.

It DOES have an electric fuel pump in the tank.

So one has been added? It did not come stock with a fuel pump. If it has a pump, it has four wires on the plug.

Assuming it has a pump, either it needs to run to prime the fuel system or you need to pull the fuel through.

Another option is to hang an IV bag of fuel going into the filter and bleed that, then bleed the pump. Once that is done, you will need to crack open the injection lines at the injectors.

I'm certain it came like that from the factory simply because when I ordered the fuel pump for that specific car they send the exact one, in tank electric 2 prong pump, that came out of it plus the chiltons service manual shows the same pump.

However that is not my problem. The problem is it's not coming on to pump the fuel.

That isn't a pump. It is a sending unit.

Chilton manuals are great for camping. You can use them to swat bugs, wipe your butt and start fires.

For working on cars, they are next to useless and often the cause of problems as is the case here.

I'll say it one more time. You do not have a pump in the tank. 100% guaranteed.

whitedog said:

That isn't a pump. It is a sending unit.

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^^^^^^ x10.

Think of it this way... if it had a pump it would need more than two prongs, since it's gotta be the sending unit as well.

So... two terminals... it's a sending unit only. The VE pump (pre-2005) did all its own pumping, all the way from the fuel tank.

Your 2006 *does* have a fuel pump in the tank... and if you pull the access cap for it you'll find at least three terminals.

You're right, it is a sending unit even though rock auto sold it as a fuel pump. I agree about the chiltons manuals but it was all I had to go by at the time. I'm going to try what you suggest and hopefully get it going because I'm running out of patience with it.

I had a similar problem when I first bought my tdi. I changed the fuel filter, then couldn't get the car to start. It turned out I had a leak at the o-rings on the filter. I ended up buying some fatter o-rings from lowes, and I used a mighty vac to pull fuel from the tank through the filter. Then I hooked up jumper cables from my F-350 and cranked the beetle until it started up.

I also greased the o-rings so they would seal a little better.

Starter and engin wont turn

Hi there

I have a 2001 golf tdi alh

I just replaced my clutch, for a southbend stage 3,
After everything now i cant start the car!
Réal bummer!!!

I did a few spot checks and i cant figure it out!
I can manually turn the engin,
So Nothing is interfering within the bellhousing
I also tested the baatery and il seems to be ok

I dont know
If someone has a idea
I am all Ears
Tanks everyone

Crap!!!

Sorry bud!

This was not supposés to be a reply to tour post

No worries. HERE is the link to his problem.

Now I'll go read what he has to say...

New to forum. I have a 2003 jetta tdi 280,000 mi. Last couple of starts experienced loud clanking upon starting, doesn't sound good. Sound goes away after couple of minutes. Now car won't start, lights etc come on. After repeated attempts now low battery.

More info: Just drove to Cali from colo about 2000 miles and ran fine. During the trip around 1000mi into it I noticed when starting loud noises from engine...yet ran and shifted automatic trans.etc. fine speeds up to 80 no issue.

Before driving that distance was experiencing transmission slipping between 2nd and 3rd.... to shop for flush... Mechanic claimed transmission unable to flush so he changed filter and put new fluid in transmission, how much removed and replaced I have no idea. Yet car drove great and I made the long trip with no shifting issues.

Had timing belt replaced at 200,000. miles need to replace again... thanks in advance for the advise

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It allowed me to diagnosis my no run condition.

cbman18j said:

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It allowed me to diagnosis my no run condition.

Click to expand...

We would love for you to share what your problem was, what the solution was and how you went about finding the problem. That's your contribution.

whitedog said:

We would love for you to share what your problem was, what the solution was and how you went about finding the problem. That's your contribution.

Click to expand...

Last week or two weeks ago I go to leave for work. I crank the vehicle it starts as I am bagging down the driveway, it dies no strange noises of anything almost like someone cut off the fuel or ignition. I try to start it a few times I get RPM movement on the tach but no joy. I push it back up the driveway which is a slight incline. The first think I think is did my timing belt break or jump a tooth. I know over dramatic. So when I get home that afternoon I pulled the timing cover and but the transmission in N so that I can turn the engine by hand to check the belt and timing. Timing looks good on IP and crank, but I don't get to check camshaft until later. Then I start with Situation #1 . You were driving along in your car and the engine died and won't start, or it just won't start but may start after sitting for awhile.
I noticed that I am getting the glow plug light and all the other lights when I turn the ignition ON.
ON to #4 but this doesn't seem to fit me because my starter runs instead I jump to #5 5. You turn the key to start and you get the lights, etc AND the engine turns over but it does not fire.
My anti-shudder valve checks fine still no run but the vacuum hose looks bad so I replace it. I check voltage to the shutoff solenoid. I have good power there, no start. On to the fuel filter. Now is were I did a couple of things that were not the smartest maybe I was tired but I pull the #2 hose off the fuel filter and pull vacuum of threw the pump, vacuum just increases no fuel. This isn't what I intended to do but who knows what I was thinking. I pull vacuum from the tank good fuel, thru the filter good fuel, no crank. I hook back up the lines in order to pull vacuum thru the pump no fuel just higher vacuum. I also remember that my clear fuel line didn't have any fuel. At this point I determined that my IP isn't sending fuel to my injectors. I also didn't realize until the next day the my fuel filter and lines were not connected correctly. The pump was basically using unfiltered fuel I know bad, bad, bad. I am not sure if I messed up or my friend when we did the fuel filter change along with the timing belt. At this point it doesn't matter. I got a replacement pump in primed the pump, bled the lines verified everything timing camshaft, crank, ip, fuel return, fuel intake. It started no issues but the codes from when I hit the start with the IP unplugged. In order to check the timing belt movement.

^well done, thanks.

whitedog said:

We would love for you to share what your problem was, what the solution was and how you went about finding the problem. That's your contribution.

Click to expand...

I can not get the 09-12 hyperlink to work. Still says I do not have access. Trying to figure out what is going on with the wife's 09 Jetta.
I hope VW buys this thing back.

TDI saga
Car.
2003 TDI jetta
ALH
5 speed.
125K miles.

is this okay to post here?

Car died, trouble strarting w/0 starting fluid.

Did not drive Car for week of warm weather.
drove it down hill, stopped. on to hi way. Upon hitting second gear car bogged losing power.
After aprox. one second car picked up power again. Moved to side of road to investigate and found that car had stopped running. Would not restart.
All lights working on dash including glowplug light.
Battery a few months old. worked fine.
had car towed home and bled injectors and found fuel being delivered.
changed fuel filter and found water on bottom. See picture if it posts.
New Fuel filter, bled air out of lines. would not start despite multiple ten second tries.
checked Fuel cut off valve. it makes noise. Also tried jumping it. still No start.
Timing belt intact and looks good. replaced about 35K ago.
Next day used starting fluid. Finally started badly, lots of smoke at first, then cleared out.
Stopped and restarted before warmed up. took almost ten revolutions. Usually two or three, but did start
Kept it running for an hour to get all water worked through system. Stopped and tried again. Still took ten revolutions despite being warm. Spun quickly and seemed to almost start.

No codes except some odd ones after first start with starting fluid. I suspect it was the cause of this confusion.
they were:
674: #4 glow plug been on for a while. I replaced them all, and the GP Circuit breaker. No luck, still have that code and the ck engine light on all the time.
P.O 252 Fuel metering control range? that seems most likely the way it’s acting. But I am but an egg.
P.O 128 Coolant?

ASV seems to work fine.


Because of the bog and return of power and then dying, I thought it might have been the level of water changing with the acceleration and deceleration, and the fuel pickup inside the fuel filter causing this, though I don’t know what the inside of the fuel filter looks like, or how long it takes fuel to travel from filter pickup to injection.

I have a 2003 ALH golf. Been a member for a while and always had some difficulty starting (~5-8 secs cranking) when the cooler weather started coming and especially first thing after parked overnight. In summer times it was fine but still took a few seconds(~3-5) of cranking after parked overnight. Finally the starter died and what occured to me (when I replaced it and opened the old starter) was that I was likely running with only 1 motor brush for the last 6 years. Also the grease inside was all dried up over the years and probably caused the starter to overheat and die. I bought my TDI 2nd hand so never knew how fast a new starter worked on the TDI. Now the car starts with about 1 sec or less of cranking. I also took extra precaution with these new starters and opened it up and added additional grease so it has plenty of lube. Even from factory these starters were not that well greased but I do admit I got the cheaper one... but this is pretty simple device and there isn't much technology behind a starter so I didn't feel the need to buy the 'luxury' edition.

Rockauto.com was a great resource for a cheap starter but I would recommend adding more grease to the starter or at least examining it to see the condition of the grease. Might also be worth noting for those who have an older start to examine the condition and clean/add grease as preventative maint. Doesn't take that much effort to remove a starter.

Bottom-line a starter with inadequate dried grease = More friction = less cranking speed, more cranking time, more current draw, more heat, risk of premature failure, more load on battery

I need just a little assistance...

I have a 2004 Jetta TDI, BEW engine. My daughter shut it off a couple days ago and now it will not start. Actually the engine starts for a second then dies. I thought of immobilizer but although the light shows in the pre-start interval(10 sec) it is off after this. I do not have a glow plug light, replaced the 109 relay but to no avail. Changed CPS but still not starting. Changed the fuel filter and primed, it will start for a short burst (1-2 sec) but will not stay running. Car fires right up but quickly dies. Timing belt changed, 205,000 miles, 210,000 currently. Timing belt is tight. Maybe someone knows something else I can check. Could not be that difficult. I do have an exhaust leak and it blows "black" smoke when it fires up, not grey or offcolor, this is probably a good sign for a diesel. Tried unplugging the CTS to encourage the GP's but nothing doing. Sucking lots of air through EGR and butterfly is open, moves as it should. I'm running out of ideas. Please let me know if you think of something. The car is new to us about two years go, always ran fine, and my daughter is a conscientious driver, with a caring attitude toward car's well being. If you think of something I would be glad to know. Also, can a Vag-Com meter read errors although no CEL is illuminated? Thank you, Aaron

Check both sides of the turbo to be sure that it didn't fail and block airflow either in or out of the turbo.

turbo failure

Thank you for the reply. I will check that this morning. About 3 wks ago I got a low boost EC error. We might be onto something. Thanks, Aaron