Running temp/ smell inside car/ vent foam discharge

zabinator

New member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
2003 Jetta TDI

I have 3 problems right now and have no idea if they're related.

For quite some time now there has been a bad smell inside the car. Not quite a diesel exhaust smell, but probably not much difference between the smell under the hood, and inside the car.

Next, again for quite some time now the heater/AC vents have been ejecting tiny pieces of foam (maybe some type of insulation?) Onto the seats, dashboard, and floor.

Lastly, yesterday I took a 100 mile trip, and not too far in I noticed the temp gauge was over half way between 190 and 260 and slowly rising. I turned the heater on max which brought it down to the normal 190, but the heater vents were blowing extremely hot air. I'm surprised the fins in the heater vent didn't melt.
Any suggestions appreciated!
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
#1, exhaust near down pipe or the crank case vent pipe that the turbo scavenges is leaking and getting sucked up into the cabin filter
#2 that happens to everyone, just suck it out with a vacuum until it stops, only way to fix it is to pull the dash off, its a 10 hour job IF your quick, and replace all the foam with HVAC tape and some quality foam or other like dynomat, on the blend door.
#3 temp gauge is fairly useless in the TDI, it takes the average temps, when it starts to climb, your in trouble.
fin in the heater core, like the rest of your radiator and your head, turbo and so on, are made of aluminum, it has a melting point of 1,221°F, so unless your car was on fire, no it will not melt, the plastic bits however that hold things together will fatigue and give way, no telling when.
not sure why its over heating, but typically its due to coolant loss, let the car cool down BEFORE you open the coolant reservoir cap if you get a big hiss of air, then you have a boost head lift issue, fairly common with modified AHU and ALH engines, there are some tricks to try and fix it on the (cheap) but ultimately a new head gasket and head work is needed and possible block as well, if it cant be fixed with some attempts at better head studs, well it can total your engine as the cost to do the head work can be extreme vs the value of the car, unless you can DIY the work. this case is to the extreme, chances are you have a coolant leak somewhere and just need a new hose, o ring or whatever is leaking, also the thermostat can fail, when it does, it typically should fail in the OPEN position and cause the car to not heat up but there are plenty of times it fails to fail properly and causes the overheat.

If it was me, i would check the coolant level after its cold, top it off, pressure test it to 20psi and use a leak detector kit with the UV additive. fix the leak and replace the thermostat while you have the system drained. make sure you go with OEM quality parts here, cheep autozone stuff can just cause more issues in a short time.
 
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Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
Yeah, but a leaky heater core has the interior smelling the sweet smell of vaporizing glycol. As well as an unclearable fogging windscreen.

And Mongler, "cheep autozone stuff"? Have you priced their cheap stuff lately? It may be cheap, but they sure don't pass along a cheap price.

Anyway, if you have a coolant leak, you will notice the drop in coolant level at the recovery tank (ball). A circulation problem (i.e. failed water pump) would not get you cabin heat, so you're good there. A bad thermostat, rare but it happens, may get the overheating symptoms you say. It is rare to have one fail closed as they are designed to fail open, but it can happen. I point at the thermostat on this, because if you are on the highway, and the radiator fans have both failed, you still won't overheat. In your case, you are seeing the overheat, you have circulation, the only thing left is that the thermostat is preventing coolant running through the radiator. I am assuming that the wrong coolant ('the green stuff') has not been used, as this could clog the radiator.

Foam bits in the cabin from the vents. Yes, this is irritating at best. VW, in their infant wisdom (aka accountants who don't know diddly about cars so they force crap on the engineers, and no I didn't misspell infinite) used thin urethane foam on the ducting doors in the HVAC box. The stuff degrades, turns to dust, (you saw what happened to the foam on the underside of the top engine cover, right?) and on the way there, chunks break loose and blow in your face. There are a large number of threads on this, and on vwvortex, mytdi<something> or something like that. Anyway, since the foam covers large holes in the doors, you lose the ability to direct the airflow as well as proper mixing of airflow for temperature control. Interestingly, this does not apply to the doors that control interior air source (recirc vs exterior vent) and directing the air to the defrost vents, since those two are smaller solid doors.

Anyway, the best way (also the most difficult) is to remove the hvac box so you can properly re-cover the doors. Some sort of padding on the door edges is needed. Covering the holes is easy once you clean off the foam and put some sticky sided aluminum tape over them. You can get it at a good hardware/home supply store as the 'real' duct tape. And Mongler did NOT overestimate the job. It is a major PIA, not difficult, just tedious and kinda long. Most people remove the front ducting and do enough from there to avoid a complete dash teardown. I'd recommend that if you don't need to replace the heater core. And like I said above, a leaky heater core will make the interior smell like coolant, not diesel exhaust, so if you don't need to, don't try and replace that core.

Diesel exhaust smell in the cabin: if you find the fix for this, please let me know. I have the same problem and just replaced my leaky heater core the hard way, but messed up the steering column, so it will be a week or two more before I know if I fixed mine or not. Probably not since I didn't do anything that would address that problem.

Good luck on finding your fixes.

Cheers,

PH
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Just to add a note, I don’t use the dash temp gauge and it is useless at best.
I have a scan gauge setup where I monitor my temps.
I just had to replace an OEM thermostat recently for just the same issue as you were having, though not that extreme.....I was running hotter than normal buy a good 15-20 .
With me is was a gradual fail, it was slowly increasing in temp as the weeks went on, I was surprised as previous failures usually resulted in a lower temp as the thermostat usually fails open. Just my .02
 

noob_tl

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2012
Location
Central Indiana
TDI
2003 NB
As to the smell inside the car - could it be the infamous "crayon" smell? Mine has that big time, and it is apparently caused by the sound deadening material under the carpet.
 

scooperhsd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
Kansas City KS
TDI
NB, 2000, RED(5 Speed conversion) 2015 Golf SE
No good way to get the foam bits from coming out, like the others have said. Taking out the front end duct work and fixing the airblend box is the only way.
 
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