I'm at 210 as we speak, I changed my tranny oil about 2k ago. I didn't really have any shifting problems either, but it now shifts noticeably smoother. I also found some smallish metal particulates (not bad for 200k miles), but overall the fluid was pretty clean. In short, worth it.Thanks Yuri!
Well I recently rolled over 200,000 miles and I believe now is a good time to change it, although I am not really having any shifting issues. Maybe I should just leave it as it is?
MoCab, changing your transmission oil will not help your problem (although it's not a bad idea). Your clutch is part of a hydraulic system which also includes your brakes (your clutch fluid and brake fluid are the same thing and use the same master cylinder I believe). For one reason or another, the hydraulic system is malfunctioning and not pushing your clutch back out as it should.Read through the post and it's very informative, thank you to all the posters. My question; I have roughly 165,900 miles on the clutch and really no prior problems shifting. Now all of a sudden my clutch pedal is not working properly. Sat down in drivers seat to start the car only to find the pedal already depressed. Could manually pull it back in place, but obviously something is not right as when I pushed the pedal down it wants to stay down. I'm now planning to change my tranny oil, but does any one any other ideas that maybe causing my problem with the clutch pedal?
I use GM Synchromesh in mine... No complaints.Is G070 the all around recommended choice? How does it handle Canadian winters?
I've heard good things from the Honda community about this stuff. Are you using the normal stuff or with friction modifiers? I'm scared of what's going to come out of my drain plug :SI use GM Synchromesh in mine... No complaints.
I'm assuming this was directed at me. Clutch engagement is the same, no reverse grinding, just difficult to get into reverse sometimes because the shifter just stops.Is the clutch engagement point the same as before? Reverse grinding too? It almost sounds like a coincidental clutch problem.
Did you resolve this?I'm assuming this was directed at me. Clutch engagement is the same, no reverse grinding, just difficult to get into reverse sometimes because the shifter just stops.
Here's what I posted in a new thread:
Well the first day or so of the change everything was okay although I definitely didn't think the shifting was any better. Well now it's been 5 or 6 days and the shifting is getting TERRIBLE. Moving the shifter left and right is genuinely difficult...so much so that if I push it all the way left or right it STAYS IN PLACE (see pictures). Also, pretty much every time I stop the vehicle, when I go to start again, it won't go into first (like it hits a wall), and I have to pull it back down into neutral and try again, usually takes 2 times, sometimes 3 or 4. Same deal when shifting into 3rd sometimes, it just stops and I have to pull it back into neutral and try again.
The only other thing I changed this weekend is my motor oil so I'm 100% sure that all of these symptoms are being caused by the transmission fluid change...but why?!?! Maybe the G070 is WAY thicker than whatever was in there before? I'm so upset about it because I've been honked at multiple times at lights because I'm unable to get it into gear :0(
Picture of shifter "stuck" to the left:
Picture of shifter "stuck" to the right:
Please help me guys! I'm assuming the answer is to change the fluid to something different but I really don't think G070 should be causing this much of an issue!
Link to new thread for any responses so we don't clog up the "How To":
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=377172
Looking at his thread it appears so.Did you resolve this?
Some of the later models use a security 16mm XZN (triple-square) fastener for the transmission... tool is VW p/n 2567 or 3357...VW has been using the 17mm drain plug for as long as I can remember...