B4V VR6 to TDI conversion

jollyGreenGiant said:

Sounds like that missing connector is the oil temp lead, you'll need to install an oil temp sender to plug that one in but if you kept the MFA the rest will work.

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Connector for oil temperature sensor is only single wire connector and its hanged just above oil filter housing.
Yes, if you want to have in your MFA oil temperature option - only you need to do is remove oil temperature sensor from VR6 engine from oil filter housing (if you still have it) and install in TDI instead of 6-square plug. And connect this sensor with wire that hanges above.
Slavik.

bigrichard said:

Thanks VW-TDI. I have one electrical connection that has puzzled me. On the engine harness by the alternator connection there are two 2-wire plugs. One is for the a/c compressor and the other, unfortunately, I did not label. It's a black female connector. It comes out of the harness near the a/c plug but I don't see a matching male connector close by.

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Not sure what exacly 2-wire female connector you are talking about, most likely you misplaced something or maybe you are using AC/fan wiring from VR6???
If you are installed also AC/fan wiring from TDI - here is few to double check:
1. A/C compressor plugs not in engine wiring harness but in AC/fan harness (2-wire plug, wire colors: brown, green/black).
2. Just above AC compressor on alternator wiring 2-wire female plug (wire colors: blue, red/black) plugs in bottom of the alternator.
3. Blue color male+female connects above starter with each other (from TDI engine harness to alternator).
4. Black 2-wire female connector on TDI engine harness (near starter) - plugs into transmission gear shifting tower (reverse gear switch). Most likely you are talking about this connector.
Let me know if you found what wrong...
Slavik.

Yes, I did use the TDI A/C/fan harness. The mystery connector was for the alternator--didn't see the plug on the alternator the first three times I looked for it.

Just need time to finish. Thanks a ton

bigrichard said:

yes, i did use the tdi a/c/fan harness. The mystery connector was for the alternator--didn't see the plug on the alternator the first three times i looked for it.

Just need time to finish. Thanks a ton

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happy tdi engine "starting"!!! :d

No cluster or start

Primed the pump and injectors and slid the battery in but no go!

I have no cluster activity except plugs, check engine and battery lights. I am suspecting a grounding problem but have double checked grounds near head, under washer bottle and at base of battery. Running lights are on all the time regardless of light switch position.

Engine cranks but doesn't run. Plugs are cycling. Injectors have new nozzles and were redone by Frank06. This was my first TDI timing belt job but I checked flywheel mark, cam and sprocket alignment (with timing tools) four times.

Help! Feeling very defeated.

bigrichard said:

Primed the pump and injectors and slid the battery in but no go!

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When you cranking the engine, diesel fuel comming from high pressure injector pipes or not? (cracked by 17mm wrench). Usually I do start the engine after conversion like this - I disconnect both fuel hoses on IP, hang one gallon gas can full with diesel (hang above engine by the hood hook), use clear hoses (Home Depot) and prime IP from gas can (without fuel filter). Using this method very easy to prime IP and start the engine. Both hoses (in and out) to gas can. After first start and when engine runs fine I connect fuel from permanent fuel tank...

Running lights are on all the time regardless of light switch position.

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it depends what light switch on your B4, there was 3 different switches and with one of this switches (as I remember factory installed in 1996 B4) running lights always will be on. To temporary eliminate extra battery draining while you crank starter a lot - just unplug light switch for now.

I have no cluster activity except plugs, check engine and battery lights

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If you have check engine light and glowplug light - your relay109 on busebox connected and working (so, no issues with power to ECU).

There is two very thick wires going to fusebox, one plugs in the center (on the back) and other plugs in the bottom right corner (also in the back of busebox). Check those wires if they are properly plugged in.
At this moment I cant think what else can be, if you have no other lights on the cluster exempt GP and CEL - something unpluged (I never have this), maybe someone can help with this.

It's Running!

Got it running. Problem was no power to the fuel shut off. Any idea why no power to it? No power traced to the big round engine harness connector. haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet.

Still no cluster guages or clock. Started to check the pins on the cluster connector and see no ground on pin 5 when it should have ground.

No oil light activity. Other cluster lights are working.

bigrichard said:

Got it running. Problem was no power to the fuel shut off. Any idea why no power to it? No power traced to the big round engine harness connector. haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet.

Still no cluster guages or clock. Started to check the pins on the cluster connector and see no ground on pin 5 when it should have ground.

No oil light activity. Other cluster lights are working.

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No idea... I have no wiring diagram here.
Check all grounds (located above fusebox), all brown color wires with brown connectors hanged above fusebox and near if all plugged.

Traced the problem with the shut off solenoid back to the ecu. Had an electronics tech touch up the solder joints around pin 53. Installed all and can now start car like a champ.

Down to just the instrument cluster guage problem. That will be for tomorrow night. Seems to be getting easier.

Cluster problem traced to the big round connector at the head. I think i'm going to need to replace that round connector eventually. But the cluster is working. First test drive will happen by Friday.

That's awesome! I was thinking about doing one of these conversions myself. Can't wait to here how the first test drive goes.

bigrichard said:

Cluster problem traced to the big round connector at the head. I think i'm going to need to replace that round connector eventually. But the cluster is working. First test drive will happen by Friday.

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Back in the day when the A3/B4 were new Volkswagen was experiencing problems with the connector that is giving you trouble right now. On the "barrel connectors" they used a substance called "stabilant 22a" every time they would unplug and plug that connector. It is used to enhance the connection at that point. If there was stabilant there to begin with and it is likely there was because of the issues you are having, then you need to reapply it. When you don’t then you get a bunch of bad connections and phantom problems that just don’t make any sense.

I disconnected the wiring at that connector too, against my better judgment. After reading how much trouble you are having I will be getting some stabilant just to eliminate that connector from the loop of possible problems. The VW pn is ZVW186001. It's pricy but should fix all your problems. No need to rewire that beast. I turn the key on my project next weekend.

Good luck

stabilant 22a

Thanks AAAVR6. I am having more problems with that connector. Oil pressure wire is flakey and not the speedometer which appears to go through the beast. I'll definitely look for stabilant.

Connector in

Engine harness connector replaced last night. Will final check today and fire it up. I hope this is going to help with the vaious electrical gremlins. was a bit of a job getting the wires out of the old connector and positioned coorectly in the new

It's Alive!

Maiden Voyage!

The re-wiring of the engine harness connector was definitely worthwhile. Was having lots of miscellaneous electrical gremlins that I was tracing to the crumbling big round engine harness connector. Also coated terminals with Stabalant. Instrument cluster lights up. All gauges working.

The car ran well. New T-4 nozzles gave a smooth idle and no smoke. Straight pipe exhaust gives a nice whistle. Noticed the brake lights weren't working which was probably why the glow plug light was flashing. Will check the brake switch in the morning.

Plugged in Vag-com and all readings seemed normal except I wasn't getting a reading for cylinder 4 in group 013. Not sure what's going on with that.

Filled the tank and am looking forward to getting behind the wheel for the commute. Much easier on fuel than the power stroke.

Congrats Richard! I remember how I was happy when I completed my first B4V GLX-TDI conversion... Was many years ago but still remember.

Plugged in Vag-com and all readings seemed normal except I wasn't getting a reading for cylinder 4 in group 013. Not sure what's going on with that.

FYI - #4 cyl never shows up in group 13 on the AHU's or 1Z's - not sure why, maybe someone else can chime in here?

Kirk

Big Richard and Kirk, in Vag-com cylinders 1, 2, and 4 are compared to cylinder #3, which is the basis of comparision.

Big Richard I am going to start my own 1997 B4V VR6 conversion from my 1996 B4V TDI my son totaled this week, so let's talk when you get a chance! I drove out to your house and bought your chasis wiring harness from you if you remember in my old 1997 Black Passat TDI about 4 years ago.