TDI manual Boost controller?

I have seen these on ebay
Manual Boost Controllers, Would this be a good fix for my car replacing the n75 with this as it over boosts and cuts the turbo out after a while?
Had anyone any experience with these?
pros and cons would be appreciated
thank you !

Sounds like the N75 is doing it’s job..maybe look into why it’s boost cutting?

tdizen said:

Would this be a good fix for my car replacing the n75 with this as it over boosts and cuts the turbo out after a while?

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Nope, you'd be defeating the ECU's control over boost; smoke/power/fuel economy would suffer, assuming all was well with your turbo.

However, all is not well with your turbo, and if it's overboosting the ECU is doing you a favour by turning it off and preventing engine damage.

As posted above, fixing the underlying issue (see the thread in my sig for an excellent step-by-step) would be the recommended approach, as opposed to a bandaid.

Vince Waldon said:

Nope, you'd be defeating the ECU's control over boost; smoke/power/fuel economy would suffer, assuming all was well with your turbo.
However, all is not well with your turbo, and if it's overboosting the ECU is doing you a favour by turning it off and preventing engine damage.
As posted above, fixing the underlying issue (see the thread in my sig for an excellent step-by-step) would be the recommended approach, as opposed to a bandaid.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the great response
I do recall that my motors turbo cuts off when I reach the traffic light to stop and press down the clutch and brake then it will go off.... Any ideas what this could be. But I will try a few checks off the list in your thread too

Check that the actuator is moving smoothly and pull vac on it. With a mighty vac the actuator will start to move at 3hg and will stop around 17hg. If I recall correctly.

You can make boost controller but only really worth doing if you have a performance turbo and a tune and want to push the turbo. My advice is not to use one. Fix the issue. Sounds like your actuator is not working properly. Do you have any limp mode issues? Or codes?

Yourbuddysatin, It's 4-5in start- 18in to the stop screw.

I think you need to check the vacuum at the N-75. The top nipple should have 27in. Wiggle the vacuum hose on the vacuum pump to see if the vacuum drops. The nipple going into the vacuum pump should not wiggle or cause the line at the top of the N75 to lose vacuum. If it does, either replace the vacuum pump or fix it.

Our simple 'redneck' fix is to wash out the swedge that holds the nipple into the pump. So you know. The nipple has a barrel with an o-ring on the back side that is supposed to be tight against the body of the pump. When the swedge over time comes loose, the o-ring will drop vacuum, rather dramatically at times.

We can't seem to fix the swedge, so instead we push as much JB Weld into the opening for the nipple as we can. That fix has lasted for years on many vehicles.

From there, the line that goes from the N75 to the turbo actuator( the next line down) should show 18in at idle. That is enough to pull the actuator to full boost position. If the vacuum from the N75 is low, you can try to wash the actuator out with starter fluid and blow it out with air pressure. Remember to always connect the tube from the N75 to the air cleaner box. If it is left off, dirt goes directly into the N75 and will eventually ruin it.

Each vacuum hose should be checked for damage or abrasion, replaced as necessary. I believe it 17 ft of the 2.5 mm and 6 ft of the 3.5mm line for complete overhaul. Do one line at a time or it will get confusing.

If the N75 drops out without loss of vacuum, check wiring continuity to the ECU.

Good luck.

Ohhh thanks Franko6. Always thought it was 3hg-17hg.