Recommended clutch/flywheel

I believe my DMF is on its way out and I am going to need to replace it soon. I am not finding many options that list they are for the 2015 tdi. I know that I cannot run a SMF, but is there a more robust DMF available for these engines? Once the emissions extension is up I do plan on tuning it so a better clutch and pressure plate would be needed.

Please share your experience with any options.

louiekaps said:

I believe my DMF is on its way out and I am going to need to replace it soon. I am not finding many options that list they are for the 2015 tdi. I know that I cannot run a SMF, but is there a more robust DMF available for these engines? Once the emissions extension is up I do plan on tuning it so a better clutch and pressure plate would be needed.
Please share your experience with any options.

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I just did the LUK kit for my 2011 JSW TDI after 332K on the original DMF and clutch...Amazing it lasted that long. The clutch was fine but the flywheel started making a rattle at idle (springs were worn out).

I cannot tell a difference between the OEM and Luk....and the price is great. I ordered from here:

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2015/volkswagen/golf_sportwagen/clutch/clutch_kit.html

The stock DMF was LUK in my car (good chance that's what you have as well). Went with the Sachs SRE w/DMF and organic disc. Rated for ~400ft-lbs and pedal feel and engagement to me is exactly like stock feel..quite amazing the rating with the easy pedal feel with this PP. I put in a pedal stop as well since the engagement height in the pedal travel was very high up, so now it's perfect IMO.
SBC makes a kit using the Sachs DMF as well, but I couldn't tell you how that one drives or how stiff the PP is. While nobody makes a more robust DMF, the fact that SBC also uses the Sachs version is possibly a sign to that one having better longevity?

Where did you source your kit from? I was able to find the kit on Darkside out of the UK...

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co...el-with-sachs-sre-performance-clutch-kit.html

Looks like it comes out to about $1000 shipped. I found the clutch kit on FCP but then I still need to source a flywheel which doesn't look like its in stock anywhere in the states.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-clutch-upgrade-kit-sachs-performance-kit-883082001422

Sachs DMF91194

The darkside unit you linked is what I have. The DMF alone is around $400 so might be your best bet to just get the darkside kit.

Ive had the Sachs SRE installed for over 2 weeks now. Was able to score the Sachs DMF on Rockauto for $275. I purchased the SRE kit from the shop for $700. $650 labor for install and I am happy.

Initially I was worried with how stiff the clutch was. But after about 1000 miles it doesn't bother me and doesn't feel as insanely stiff over my other vehicles as it did at first.

I just purchased the Sachs SRE kit from darkside developments and had it installed 2 weeks ago. Clutch feel is definitely improved over stock (I always thought the stock clutch pedal was way too soft). Clutch engages nicely, feels almost OEM+. Would highly recommend. For those interested, clutch kid to Toronto with shipping and duties was $1583.15 CAD. $770 for installation. I felt this was the best option compared to the Kerma DMF kit, with a south bend stage 2 daily clutch (close to $2500 CAD, plus shipping).

I have a malone stage 2 tune, after a few 6th gear pulls there is no slipping or flywheel shuddering.

How long are you guys getting out of stock clutch?

I wanted to provide an update on the Darkside Developments kit (Saschs SRE with HD DMF). The clutch seems to be holding up great, but I believe the DMF has started to fail. about 30,000km since install, 99% highway mileage. Has anyone else had issues with this flywheel failing?

tonestar - I had about 90,000km on the car when I went with the Malone stage 2 tune. Within a month after the tune, the stock clutch started slipping in 5th and 6th gears under heavy throttle. I never experienced any DMF "shudder" with the stock clutch and flywheel.

These DMFs do not like 300ft-lbs before 2200rpm, just because it's not shuddering doesn't mean the abuse isn't happening.

Are these basically the DMFs used with the stock Sachs clutch kit rather than an uprated version?

"Uprated" DMFs do not exist unfortunately.
The $3k SBC kit even uses a stock Sachs unit

Glad this thread was brought back to life. New GSW I picked up has 94k miles with a Kerma tune and I was able to get it to slip under WOT around 1800-2200rpm in 4th-6th on the stock clutch.

What’s interesting is that I can do the same thing in 1st-3rd and no issue at all. No shuddering or anything but I would like to replace the clutch so it’s just not an issue.

Bought another house this past week so I’ll get to it soon enough. Nice recommendations for replacements tho!

Slipping clutches (and shuddering flywheels) show themselves in higher gears when the torque is requested for a longer period due to RPMs not rising as fast. Tune accordingly....

I'm at just over 50k, on original clutch etc., Kerma tuned for 90% of that. I've been WOT in 6th only one time that I remember, way out in the desert trying to see how fast I could go (I called it at 110ish). So at today point I had nearly redlined 5th. Granted the car is out of wind at that speed, and 5th gets better acceleration at 90+.

Anytime I've been WOT in 5th it's after redlining 4th which always means I'm out in the desert, usually on that same long straight.

For me, the need to go WOT at 18-2200 in 5th or 6th means I need to downshift. I think that's more fun anyway. I'm not trying to test my clutch, lol.

I think mine is do for clutch job, tried bleeding master twice now same problem seems like clutch skips slips when taking off from first gear after driving for a while smooth when it's cold start, 129k on the clock
p.s as far as oem clutch and dmf would it be luk dmf123 and for clutch 02057 and would rear main seal be a good time to change it as a cheap insurance, thanks

What does WOT stand for?
Google shows me world of tanks. Pfft.

whizznbyu said:

What does WOT stand for?
Google shows me world of tanks. Pfft.

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Wide Open Throttle

reactor said:

I think mine is do for clutch job, tried bleeding master twice now same problem seems like clutch skips slips when taking off from first gear after driving for a while smooth when it's cold start, 129k on the clock
p.s as far as oem clutch and dmf would it be luk dmf123 and for clutch 02057 and would rear main seal be a good time to change it as a cheap insurance, thanks

Click to expand...

You might consider a Sachs replacement clutch/DMF set. The Sachs TOB/slave cylinder has a better seal arrangement than the leak-prone LUK TOB and is not compatible with the LUK clutch.

So what if your DSG slips (mild shudder) 5-6th after Kerma DSG Tune?

They 1st said fluid issue:
So I Serviced again 2nd time in 50k) and level checked at correct temp window.

Now they say:
Our recommendation for the clutch slip is to reset the clutch pressure and synchronization points in your transmission computer

Wait what?
The funny thing is never did this prior to There tune.

Any help here would be greatly helpful.

Shuddering and slipping are two different issues. Your 5th-6th shudder is more likely the DMF. They need to reduce fuel just a tiny bit before 2200rpm or you'll need a new DMF in short order. They know what to do in the tune.
Alternatively, downshift

Whats DMF?

Dual Mass Flywheel
It has internal springs that allow the two masses to move independently of one another, as far as the springs will let them. When you get shudder, you're feeling the two masses bottoming out in the spring travel. Above 300ft-lbs of torque below 2200rpm or so is typically where they begin to exhibit that behavior, and it is likely to shorten their life.

Hmm.... well it makes sense.
Seems weird that it happened the day I uploaded DSG tune from Kerma.

Do RPMs raise without increase in actual speed?
I didn't see you did the DSG tune and it causes the issue. I would follow their recommendation first to rule out it's actually the clutches. They're usually very solid though and should handle 400ft-lbs no trouble.

gripp said:

So what if your DSG slips (mild shudder) 5-6th after Kerma DSG Tune?

They 1st said fluid issue:
So I Serviced again 2nd time in 50k) and level checked at correct temp window.

Now they say:
Our recommendation for the clutch slip is to reset the clutch pressure and synchronization points in your transmission computer

Wait what?
The funny thing is never did this prior to There tune.

Any help here would be greatly helpful.

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What ECM tune (tuner and stage) is it and did they realize that when they were talking to you, that you HAD THEIR DSG tune? Seems like an odd response from the tuner if they understood what was going on and that you already tuned. Maybe "reset the clutch pressure and synchronization points" means "run DSG adaptation" (which can be done in VCDS) and they weren't very clear on that? DSG adaptation is "supposed" to be done after the DSG service but in most cases, since the TCM will technically "adapt" with regular driving, I don't think it's a hard and fast rule to run the adaptation and road test procedures to complete it.

RIP TDI said:

You might consider a Sachs replacement clutch/DMF set. The Sachs TOB/slave cylinder has a better seal arrangement than the leak-prone LUK TOB and is not compatible with the LUK clutch.

Click to expand...

Thank you for sachs recommendation i will likely go with this set up, i've ordered ecs bleeder block few days ago see how much the clutch pedal feel will change before i tackle the clutch job

Mrrogers1 said:

What ECM tune (tuner and stage) is it and did they realize that when they were talking to you, that you HAD THEIR DSG tune? Seems like an odd response from the tuner if they understood what was going on and that you already tuned. Maybe "reset the clutch pressure and synchronization points" means "run DSG adaptation" (which can be done in VCDS) and they weren't very clear on that? DSG adaptation is "supposed" to be done after the DSG service but in most cases, since the TCM will technically "adapt" with regular driving, I don't think it's a hard and fast rule to run the adaptation and road test procedures to complete it.

Click to expand...

Your correct on all points. They did know it was there tunes. We've had numerous conversations regarding the issue.
Thanks for your feedback

I spoke to the folks over at Kerma the other day and they referred this beefy looking clutch to make sure all the power is held properly:

South Bend - Endurance Clutch Kit

Has anyone used this particular clutch in their MK7?

The SBC kit uses a Sachs DMF, so the only thing special is their clutch disc and painted pressure plate. I don't personally have experience with it, but for the price it's a bit less than desirable IMO. It also has the inferior 2-piece CSC (concentric slave cylinder) that has on o-ring along the shaft that is known to be a leak point.
The Sachs brand SRE kit with organic disc is good for 400ft-lbs of torque (more than enough headroom for the CRUA/CVCA) and pedal feel is stock like with a super smooth engagement. It also comes with the 1-piece CSC and is ~$700 cheaper than the SBC kit linked.

I personally would be very curious what the engagement feel of the SBC disc is like. I've since gone to the Sachs sintered paddle disc on my car, and it's very grabby though I can live with it. Something in between the two materials that could hold 500ft-lbs would be perfect for my setup.

Keep in mind, neither of these kits are going to cure the shudder that can be felt with a tune as the design flaw is the DMF that doesn't like >300ft-lbs before 2200rpm. Tune accordingly, and things live a lot longer