mintyepicness
Active member
Beef on a Budget. VR6/Wagon springs
- Thread starter miketoth1979
- Start date
fruitcakesa
Top Post Dawg
Must be some serious water crossings with that tailpipeWant to lift a beater Mk4... came across this pic on google. Stance looks hella good (besides the other stuff on it). Tread pattern has to be BFG.. but the clearance looks like more than 215/75/15's should be with a ~2". Maybe it's just the angle of the pic. Thoughts?
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
I wonder if the hatch even opens?Must be some serious water crossings with that tailpipe
I just noticed the huge chunk of the front fender missing...
I wonder if this was photoshopped?
mintyepicness
Active member
There is probably a snorkel on the front too!Must be some serious water crossings with that tailpipe
That was my initial thought, but zooming in I don't see any obvious signs of photoshopping. The roof crossbars even appear to be sagging from the barrel 'contraption'.
If it's real, definitely one of a kind... surprised I haven't seen it show up here or VWV forums. I feel the need to know the story behind this..
79TA7.6
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2006
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta, 2002 TDI Golf, 2005 TDI Golf
The photo is real. I remember the user on here posting it and getting a bunch of flack for it.
Oo-v-oO
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2000
- Location
- Live Free or Die, USA
- TDI
- 98 Jetta Expired... Now 2000 Golf & 2002 Golf
To be fair, that's a common rust spot.
Oh, and what's the purpose of the oil drums? The clearance lights are a nice touch.
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runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Unsubscribed
bwalshTDI
Member
Hey gang, I recently did the VR6 spring, Bilstein strut, Jetta wagon rear spring and Bilstein shock and 1" lift mod on my 2004 Jetta TDI. I love the added height and handling but am having some of the same issues as others have regarding clunking sounds from both ends.
On the front I replaced the ball joints, tie rods and rear control arm bushing with the TT ones. I did not replace the front bushings as the ones in the kit looked too small in diameter and I didn't want to be down waiting to figure it out. The ones in there look solid so I'm not too concerned about those. Going over bumps I get a clunking from what appears to be the right front. I'm having a hard time figuring out what that could be from and how to correct it.
On the rear, I had a heck of a time installing the springs over top of the 1" spacer. I did tighten everything up with about 200lbs in the back seat. The shocks are securely fastened to the upper mounts. I'm getting a clunking noise going over bumps. I'm thinking the rear axle is now "pre-loaded"(due to the difficulty of installing the springs and putting stress on the bushings, possibly causing the clunking.? Can I just loosen the rear axle bolts with the car on level ground and re-tighten?
Any ideas sure would be appreciated as I'm kind of stuck until I get this resolved. I want to get all this sorted if possible before new tires and an alignment.
On the front I replaced the ball joints, tie rods and rear control arm bushing with the TT ones. I did not replace the front bushings as the ones in the kit looked too small in diameter and I didn't want to be down waiting to figure it out. The ones in there look solid so I'm not too concerned about those. Going over bumps I get a clunking from what appears to be the right front. I'm having a hard time figuring out what that could be from and how to correct it.
On the rear, I had a heck of a time installing the springs over top of the 1" spacer. I did tighten everything up with about 200lbs in the back seat. The shocks are securely fastened to the upper mounts. I'm getting a clunking noise going over bumps. I'm thinking the rear axle is now "pre-loaded"(due to the difficulty of installing the springs and putting stress on the bushings, possibly causing the clunking.? Can I just loosen the rear axle bolts with the car on level ground and re-tighten?
Any ideas sure would be appreciated as I'm kind of stuck until I get this resolved. I want to get all this sorted if possible before new tires and an alignment.
vandermic07
Veteran Member
Sounds like sway bar bushings?
Mawcus
Veteran Member
Make sure sway bar endlinks are tightened. I re did my suspension and had a clunk and i ended up having to tighten the end links again
memphis tdi
Veteran Member
I bought a set of 10,000 mi R32 front struts and springs and a set of the Moog Wagon rear springs for my 99.5 Jetta, the rear springs where noisy at first but settled in and are quiet now. I have been very happy with the set up, handles much better than my wife's stock 03 Jetta, and has a sporty firm ride, also got about a 1" lift out of it.
B100
Veteran Member
IDparts has the VR6 springs on sale today, I just noticed. Hmmmm...
http://www.idparts.com/news.php?articles_id=61
http://www.idparts.com/news.php?articles_id=61
TheRachermobile
Member
I have a 2001 Golf tdi that I am getting ready to replace the shocks and struts on. I also will be towing my boat this summer so want to have the rears done before I start doing that. I know this post is pretty darn old... but how did the MOOG hold up?
Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
so far so good on mine almost 100k miles later, many of them towing.
Richptl
Vendor
Changed to ID Parts springs.
I used the Bilstein VR6 struts and cheap Moog springs. The wagon has tall rear springs to begin with, and even with the tools I carry around in the back, the car had noticeable rake.
I added spacers around 10,000 miles ago because the Moog springs were sagging.
I replaced the Moog springs with the ID Parts Suplex A4 Jetta Wagon VR6 springs ($129.95) and still used the spacers. Now FINALLY the car is level.
So if you have bad roads which put a lot more action on the springs, expect the Moog springs to last around 50,000 miles. My front suspension was bottoming out frequently with those springs before I got around to change them to Suplex 2 weeks ago.
I think the low front end on the A4 TDI wagon is part of the reason why this model eats through front wheel bearings. Even with the Moog springs, I haven't had to change a front wheel bearing in some time.
I live in upstate New York where the roads are awful. I've got a wagon with automatic and added an aluminum skid plate, frost heater, and over-sized intercooler. So I have some extra weight on the front.
I used the Bilstein VR6 struts and cheap Moog springs. The wagon has tall rear springs to begin with, and even with the tools I carry around in the back, the car had noticeable rake.
I added spacers around 10,000 miles ago because the Moog springs were sagging.
I replaced the Moog springs with the ID Parts Suplex A4 Jetta Wagon VR6 springs ($129.95) and still used the spacers. Now FINALLY the car is level.
So if you have bad roads which put a lot more action on the springs, expect the Moog springs to last around 50,000 miles. My front suspension was bottoming out frequently with those springs before I got around to change them to Suplex 2 weeks ago.
I think the low front end on the A4 TDI wagon is part of the reason why this model eats through front wheel bearings. Even with the Moog springs, I haven't had to change a front wheel bearing in some time.
Bengoshi2000
Veteran Member
I'm checking in a little over a year and 22,000 miles post install. No problems to report! Still rides as it did the day after the install. (Note: I drive 55 miles round-trip daily for work on 2 lane, rural country roads.)
I'm not having the surface rust issue with the MOOG springs reported by some nor am I getting any rubbing or noises from them.
This was a solid upgrade for the car and I'm as pleased now as I was then.
Nevada_TDI
Top Post Dawg
I am planning on towing a small pop up tent trailer with my Jetta. I need all new springs, shocks and struts. Does anyone have experience with the Solo Werks S1 coil overs like the ones from Kerma? I am not interested in lowering my Jetta I would prefer stock like height, but the ability to lift/preset the rears would be great for when I am towing. All responses are welcome, thank you.
dhangejr
Veteran Member
Think I can run just wagon springs in the rear?
Leaving the front stock.
Leaving the front stock.
dandywriter
Veteran Member
I did for a while; rear was quite high (looked, according to a friend, like a cat looking for mating). I put 20 mm spacers on the front for a better look...
dhangejr
Veteran Member
Perfect
bwalshTDI
Member
Sorry for the long delay updating...
I replaced the rear axle bushings as they were well past due. I also removed the 1" lift in the back so now the car sits almost level, with an ever so slight higher front end. It's hard to tell it unless your really scrutinizing.
I still get an occasional clunk out of the rear, after dropping off curbs(almost). None out of the front. I stuck with stock 195 size tires as a 205 spare would never fit in the tire well and I don't want it in the trunk.
I also copy and pasted this from the thread.
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dhangejr
Veteran Member
I found some wagon springs in the junk yard.
I can't find any useful information though.
They have 3 green 2 silver
I want to believe they are the same as 1 white 4 brown but my gut says not
Maybe someone here can verify spring rate or how much lift they would give a Jetta sedan?
Thanks
I can't find any useful information though.
They have 3 green 2 silver
I want to believe they are the same as 1 white 4 brown but my gut says not
Maybe someone here can verify spring rate or how much lift they would give a Jetta sedan?
Thanks
JettaTDlie
Well-known member
Lots of good info in here! Always debating lifting my Golf...
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OlyTDI
Veteran Member
If you think they're stock, I cannot imagine that it wouldn't provide the lift upgrade you seek.
Apothecia
Member
Towing suspension for 2004 Golf TDI
Hello, this is what I'm towing - a 1,500 lb Chalet A-frame trailer. So far I have towed that thing all the way from Portland, OR to San Francisco and then another 2,000 miles to the Chicagoland area. It pulls so nice, I don't even realize it's back there! But the rear end is sagging. I want to upgrade my suspension so that the rear end won't sag as much. I am looking at both airbags and springs. Can anyone plz recommend a product that they know works for this kind of thing? I was checking out the pic with the boat trailer, which looks like it might have required the same kind of modification.
Thanks!
-ES
I am new and don't know how to upload images yet, but I was going to upload a pic of my car towing the camper.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150906749@N02/35931754431/in/dateposted-public/
Hello, this is what I'm towing - a 1,500 lb Chalet A-frame trailer. So far I have towed that thing all the way from Portland, OR to San Francisco and then another 2,000 miles to the Chicagoland area. It pulls so nice, I don't even realize it's back there! But the rear end is sagging. I want to upgrade my suspension so that the rear end won't sag as much. I am looking at both airbags and springs. Can anyone plz recommend a product that they know works for this kind of thing? I was checking out the pic with the boat trailer, which looks like it might have required the same kind of modification.
Thanks!
-ES
I am new and don't know how to upload images yet, but I was going to upload a pic of my car towing the camper.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150906749@N02/35931754431/in/dateposted-public/
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dhangejr
Veteran Member
hey somoene just showed me this the other day.
log in with the same info as you do here over at at pics.tdiclub.com then you can upload pics! its kinda cumbersome!
As for towing, Id think the bags would be better because they are more versatile for any given situation.
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Apothecia
Member
I showed my mechanic some bags that I found online and he said that those were used for lowering the car, not for increasing the tow load capacity on it. Could anyone please suggest a specific set of bags to use? I guess I don't really know how to tell the difference between tow bags and the other kind. But my car really needs them.
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
To do this right I would suggest new rear springs.
Another option is to find some aftermarket shocks that have spring assist.
Look at some of the vendors and see what they have available.
I had mine custom made and ended up with a dual rate spring.
where2
Veteran Member
If you want to retain your stock ride height, measure your springs with the full weight of the vehicle sitting on them and no trailer attached. If you intend to swap springs, get the new springs in, then measure. Once you've measured, size a set of AirLift bags accordingly. Some years ago at ~170k, I revised my springs and dampers under the MkIV Jetta Wagon with Moog springs and Koni shocks/struts (reds). With the revised springs, it has always seemed to sit rather "high", but with the fragility of the MkIV aluminum oil pan, extra clearance is good.
Having had great success with an AirLift (helper spring/bladders) kit in my wife's MkV Jetta sedan, today I added them to my MkIV wagon. Based on other reviews for the MkIV, I used kit number: 80753. Why the AirLift kit? Because we have a 5x8 utility trailer that we regularly tow from FL to Maine (2000 miles), loaded with appliances, farm equipment or anything in between. When using the trailer in Maine, it's nice not to have to manually re-adjust the headlights when you make the 80 mile (one way) trip to Home Depot to pickup a load of building supplies. With an AirLift kit, you just pull out a $12 12V air compressor, bring the car up level, disconnect the pump, and drive home. Once the trailer is unloaded and disconnected, you let the air out. Before the AirLift kit, I regularly dragged the hitch when I had the utility trailer attached. or dragged my hitch mount bike racks pulling out of my driveway. While I had the Koni's loose today, I dialed the damping up to 1/3 firm from full soft.