What did you do to your MKIV today?

My apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.

Nevada_TDI said:

My apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.

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I can see how he might hit the d key instead of the s key, but not having the t keystroke register afterwards takes the cake!

Did the quantity adjuster seals today, hammer modded to 6.0 mg.

Airflow with the P3Cars gauge isn't bad, the reduced vent area seems to act like a thumb pressed on a garden hose, increasing velocity out of the vent, making it feel more effective when directed at the driver's arm/face. A similarly placed strip of tape would be a cheap and easy simulation to determine livability.

I saw it listed for $249 so I jumped on that deal. Picked up the analog boost sensor for another 30ish and the new south performance boost gauge tubing kit too. Hope to get to that installation tomorrow.

kidflyr said:

I saw it listed for $249 so I jumped on that deal. Picked up the analog boost sensor for another 30ish and the new south performance boost gauge tubing kit too. Hope to get to that installation tomorrow.

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Wow! That is over 1/3 off! Where was this?

Got it from Idparts, it was in the open box & clearance section, but looked untouched as best I could determine. Pre-installed in a jetta vent, at that price, I assumed I had misread at first.

So far I like it pretty well. I think in my messing with the buttons and plugging/unplugging things I caused the boost gauge function to only display vacuum. I'm sure it will be a non issue, just need to read up on the device's functions.

It appears that a casualty of the installation is/was my headlight switch or gauge light dimmer. Something got tweaked in the removal and reinstallation such that the gauge lights will sometimes not come on with the headlight switch. Both switch and dimmer are original to my knowledge, and this may be the excuse I need to put in a "Euro" style switch and wire up some rock lights to the fog light position.

Wife's '03 NB had a CEL that wouldn't go away. VCDS revealed an intermittent cylinder 1 glowplug fault, but the code when cleared would immediately return. Yesterday I replaced it because it ohm-ed out at 152 ohms, rather high, don't you think?

AFter a quick replacement, the fault stays gone, and the CEL is now out. Yay!

Someday soon: the intake manifold is severely occluded and will require cleaning. Sigh, her bad driving habits (not really, we just live much too close to her work) make it a goad for me to make some EGR 'testing' devices for my ALH powered TDIs.

Cheers,

PH

kidflyr said:

Got it from Idparts, it was in the open box & clearance section, but looked untouched as best I could determine. Pre-installed in a jetta vent, at that price, I assumed I had misread at first.

So far I like it pretty well. I think in my messing with the buttons and plugging/unplugging things I caused the boost gauge function to only display vacuum. I'm sure it will be a non issue, just need to read up on the device's functions.

It appears that a casualty of the installation is/was my headlight switch or gauge light dimmer. Something got tweaked in the removal and reinstallation such that the gauge lights will sometimes not come on with the headlight switch. Both switch and dimmer are original to my knowledge, and this may be the excuse I need to put in a "Euro" style switch and wire up some rock lights to the fog light position.

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Yes, IDParts really took a loss on that. P3 charges an extra $165 just for the vent piece!

Nevada_TDI said:

I ran the tank completely dry. Unplanned yes, but it happened.
Post #3834 says something about "dicking" to a phone, how does one do that?

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LOL...here we go..

romad said:

I think he meant "stick" as "Torque" is an app for smartphones.

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There it is!

Nevada_TDI said:

My apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.

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..... yep

romad said:

I can see how he might hit the d key instead of the s key, but not having the t keystroke register afterwards takes the cake!

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I use swipe on my phone, so the action is very similar.... No keystrokes, more like a missed angle.

kidflyr said:

Did the quantity adjuster seals today, hammer modded to 6.0 mg.

Airflow with the P3Cars gauge isn't bad, the reduced vent area seems to act like a thumb pressed on a garden hose, increasing velocity out of the vent, making it feel more effective when directed at the driver's arm/face. A similarly placed strip of tape would be a cheap and easy simulation to determine livability.

I saw it listed for $249 so I jumped on that deal. Picked up the analog boost sensor for another 30ish and the new south performance boost gauge tubing kit too. Hope to get to that installation tomorrow.

Click to expand...

Good idea with the tape, lol. I'll try that. I wonder what stereo head units might have similar features.... It's just so pricey for me.

Speaking of PRICY and DICKS...

I installed my Bosal towbar today. It's swan neck is akin to a donkey dick according to an acquaintance of mine, lol. Fresh from Germany, went in super smooth, no pun intended. Electrical kit was awesome, hopefully I can convert it to 4pin US spec without issue. Amazon has a cable for it.

Getting fresh tail light washers/shims tomorrow and buttoning it back up. Might look for some hard foam for inside the bumper too.... Get some 5mph protection... maybe.



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03 shaker said:

I'll report when I fuel up towards the end of the week what my MPG was.

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Filled up Saturday night, don't have the exact miles and gallons at the moment but it was around 755 miles on 16.5 gallons, or 45.8 MPG. Also the most i've ever put in my tank! I knew I was cutting it close. Tank before that was 45.7, before that was 46.0

I did some playing with the new setup but most of this tank was my normal, conservative driving. Super pleased with the setup now.

03 shaker said:

Filled up Saturday night, don't have the exact miles and gallons at the moment but it was around 755 miles on 16.5 gallons, or 45.8 MPG. Also the most i've ever put in my tank! I knew I was cutting it close. Tank before that was 45.7, before that was 46.0
I did some playing with the new setup but most of this tank was my normal, conservative driving. Super pleased with the setup now.

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Playing with fire! haha I went to 15.8 gallons last couple weeks. Hey what does the small fuel mean in "Malone stage 4 Small Fuel"? ..and what clutch do you have?

Figit, if you're talking about the Reese 118710, you better hurry as there are only 20 left!

Figit090 said:

Playing with fire! haha I went to 15.8 gallons last couple weeks. Hey what does the small fuel mean in "Malone stage 4 Small Fuel"? ..and what clutch do you have?

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Yes I was, about 40 miles past the fuel light, I think. And the way it was explained to me, this version of Malone's stage 4 fuels harder off boost. It fuels more aggressive down low in the rpms. I didn't ask for anything special, Malone sent the regular stage 4 and the stage 4 "small fuel" and told me to try both and keep whichever I liked better.

Noticeable difference when building boost from an idle at wot, higher rpm felt the same. Normal acceleration and driving the small fuel felt more responsive so that's a big reason why I chose it.

And I've got a South Bend stage 2 endurance with a single mass flywheel. Good clutch. I'll update my sig to show that haha

romad said:

Figit, if you're talking about the Reese 118710, you better hurry as there are only 20 left!

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Yes actually! Do you know if it will work ok with the Euro electrics?? It's designed for a Landrover setup i think...

03 shaker said:

Yes I was, about 40 miles past the fuel light, I think. And the way it was explained to me, this version of Malone's stage 4 fuels harder off boost. It fuels more aggressive down low in the rpms. I didn't ask for anything special, Malone sent the regular stage 4 and the stage 4 "small fuel" and told me to try both and keep whichever I liked better.

Noticeable difference when building boost from an idle at wot, higher rpm felt the same. Normal acceleration and driving the small fuel felt more responsive so that's a big reason why I chose it.

And I've got a South Bend stage 2 endurance with a single mass flywheel. Good clutch. I'll update my sig to show that haha

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Oh cool! I wish I could get a bigger tune but I can't afford a clutch. I'm contemplating running a higher stage tune and upgrading the clutch later but I'm not 100% I can keep my foot out of it.

Figit090 said:

Yes actually! Do you know if it will work ok with the Euro electrics?? It's designed for a Landrover setup i think...

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Isn't that what it is designed for? To convert the 7 wire signals down to work with US 4 wire system? Check out this etrailer video:


https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Tow-Ready-Wiring-118710.aspx


And here are some customer reviews:


https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/118710.html#prod-acc-onlyreviews

romad said:

Isn't that what it is designed for? To convert the 7 wire signals down to work with US 4 wire system? Check out this etrailer video:


https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Tow-Ready-Wiring-118710.aspx


And here are some customer reviews:


https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/118710.html#prod-acc-onlyreviews

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Thank you! I didn't see the video but I did read the reviews. I purchased one yesterday and it should be on the way from Amazon now, I forgot to update here.

I was afraid it may have needed a car that could switch the output or something (like a switch to disable certain lights or a relay change), nobody has said it was this easy! In fact, I got a suggestion to cut off my euro plug and replace it with the US 7pin....

Euro cars seperate sides for brake lights so perhaps it literally splices them together and ignores the rest lol.

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Figit090 said:

Thank you! I didn't see the video but I did read the reviews. I purchased one yesterday and it should be on the way from Amazon now, I forgot to update here.

I was afraid it may have needed a car that could switch the output or something (like a switch to disable certain lights or a relay change), nobody has said it was this easy! In fact, I got a suggestion to cut off my euro plug and replace it with the US 7pin....

Euro cars seperate sides for brake lights so perhaps it literally splices them together and ignores the rest lol.

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Click to expand...

Well it does combine the brake light and turn signals into two wires instead of three and it also doesn't use the blue wire pin which is used for the trailer rear fog light in Europe so the convertor is essentially just like the flat 5 wire to 4 wire convertors.


BTW, you do have a flat tester like this one https://www.harborfreight.com/four-way-trailer-light-tester-66526.html to check the output of the adapter?

Above is the old broken bearing with off centered flywheel, making it so I couldn’t get into or out of gear.
Today, I got a new sb stage 2 daily smf with new trans with wavetrac and 3.16 r&p with cupra seat rear beam bushings and new dogbone, motor mount and trans mount. It has so much less noise and rattle, feels more planted and goes so much faster in each gear before shifts I feel it needs brake upgrade! It shifts smooth but still can catch and pop out of first and slam into reverse. I wonder if I neeed a shifting lesson or if maybe the cables are cocked. If I’m careful it shifts really nice but sometimes clunks or snags like it always did.

Fahrvegnugen said:

Above is the old broken bearing with off centered flywheel, making it so I couldn’t get into or out of gear.
Today, I got a new sb stage 2 daily smf with new trans with wavetrac and 3.16 r&p with cupra seat rear beam bushings and new dogbone, motor mount and trans mount. It has so much less noise and rattle, feels more planted and goes so much faster in each gear before shifts I feel it needs brake upgrade! It shifts smooth but still can catch and pop out of first and slam into reverse. I wonder if I neeed a shifting lesson or if maybe the cables are cocked. If I’m careful it shifts really nice but sometimes clunks or snags like it always did.

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Maybe you need to spend a smidge more money
https://www.dieselgeek.com/collecti...bushing-kit-for-mk4-golf-jetta-gti-new-beetle

Thanks I already did that bushing kit first. All that’s left is the end links. So maybe a little more money... Sometimes I had to get out, shut car off, adjust the links so I could shift a couple gears. Almost ready for a tune, but it already seems too fast for itself. Still no car payment!

This past Saturday the temperature was up around 100 degrees. I noticed my AC weren’t as cold and the in car gauge running slightly higher. I opened the hood only to find out the left big fan not spinning, I tap it and she came on, so nice I thought but it happened and hour later. I check all connections, tested FMC and all is well, however the fan shuts off when the fan motor gets hot, kinda sucks because I replaced that fan last year. Anyways I brought and installed a new unit yesterday and temps are back to normal again. Also change out coolant overflow bottle.


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Fahrvegnugen said:

Thanks I already did that bushing kit first. All that’s left is the end links. So maybe a little more money... Sometimes I had to get out, shut car off, adjust the links so I could shift a couple gears. Almost ready for a tune, but it already seems too fast for itself. Still no car payment!

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I recently added brass relay lever bushings, did the cable end bushings on mine, drove it for a few days and then added metal transmission/cable bracket bushings.The bracket bushings are convenient to install in the same operation as the cable ends. Each item was an incremental improvement, no miracles, but much improved overall.

I found this thread to be a helpful resource: https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=409035

If you have not already done so, the updated shift lever "cup" bushing in the cabin can be a good improvement per dollar, it was $12 shipped in my case. Diesel Geek also has a 'tube video on shimming the existing/old bushing, which I did for about a week before I went for the new bushing.

What variety of motor and transmission mounts did you choose, and how are you liking the wavetrac? I'm debating with myself whether to get one and install it when I do my clutch soon. I frequently have low traction scenarios where the full lock would be desirable... The Golf has been the only wheeled vehicle on quite a few logging tractor roads lately, everyone else drives on tracks

romad said:

Well it does combine the brake light and turn signals into two wires instead of three and it also doesn't use the blue wire pin which is used for the trailer rear fog light in Europe so the convertor is essentially just like the flat 5 wire to 4 wire convertors.
BTW, you do have a flat tester like this one https://www.harborfreight.com/four-way-trailer-light-tester-66526.html to check the output of the adapter?

Click to expand...

Hey thanks for that link! I'll pick one up before I close everything up! I forgot to get one. I may just stick my voltmeter in the plug though, same effect
Do you have any idea what the switch does in the hitch plug on the car? I have two grey wires running to/from the switch that's activated by plugging something into the 7 pin receiver plug. I was guessing by the wiring that it's a fog light switch, maybe to disable the fogs when a trailer is attached?
Anyway, I switched my tails (one done so far) to Euro wiring so it will play nice with the Euro trailer wiring, and I've been wanting to do it for a while! I also did the 5 brake light mod.

Figit090 said:

Hey thanks for that link! I'll pick one up before I close everything up! I forgot to get one. I may just stick my voltmeter in the plug though, same effect
Do you have any idea what the switch does in the hitch plug on the car? I have two grey wires running to/from the switch that's activated by plugging something into the 7 pin receiver plug. I was guessing by the wiring that it's a fog light switch, maybe to disable the fogs when a trailer is attached?
Anyway, I switched my tails (one done so far) to Euro wiring so it will play nice with the Euro trailer wiring, and I've been wanting to do it for a while! I also did the 5 brake light mod.

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What switch in the hitch plug? Is this on the LandRover UK 7-pin to NA flat connector? Do you have a picture?

Here is a link to the UK pinouts: https://www.towbarandtrailercentre.com/wiring-diagrams

kidflyr said:

..........and how are you liking the wavetrac? I'm debating with myself whether to get one and install it when I do my clutch soon. I frequently have low traction scenarios where the full lock would be desirable... The Golf has been the only wheeled vehicle on quite a few logging tractor roads lately, everyone else drives on tracks

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Some good reading on LSD's - wavetrack included

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4929208&highlight=LSD#post4929208

romad said:

What switch in the hitch plug? Is this on the LandRover UK 7-pin to NA flat connector? Do you have a picture?

Here is a link to the UK pinouts: https://www.towbarandtrailercentre.com/wiring-diagrams

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It's part of the AC electrics set, mounted on the car. it's got a simple switch to detect attachment of a trailer.

I think it modifies the euro fog lights and passes them to the trailer, rather than power them on both the trailer and the car.

I have pinouts for the plug, they came with the kit. the switch isn't mentioned though. No biggie, the wires it controls aren't used in the US anyway so no power will go through it.

OK, Figit!


BTW, where in NorCal are you?

romad said:

OK, Figit!


BTW, where in NorCal are you?

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Humboldt County, know anyone up my way?

Figit090 said:

Humboldt County, know anyone up my way?

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Nope. Been through it a couple of times, though, via the PCH. As a founding member of the Sacramento Miata club, I just HAD to visit Samoa and eat at the cookhouse!

Installed a full 2.5in Buzzken exhaust to replace my existing falling apart system. Not really sure if I'm digging the sound yet. Kind of reminds me of a Subaru.

romad said:

Nope. Been through it a couple of times, though, via the PCH. As a founding member of the Sacramento Miata club, I just HAD to visit Samoa and eat at the cookhouse!

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Oh nice! Quite a drive isn't it! Did you take the road out to the Lost Coast?

Nero Morg said:

Installed a full 2.5in Buzzken exhaust to replace my existing falling apart system. Not really sure if I'm digging the sound yet. Kind of reminds me of a Subaru.

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got a video?