Electrical Issues, VCDS log included

Wednesday night near the end of a 3 hour drive the instrument lights went haywire flashing on and off and the radio turned off. It cleared in less than a minute or so leaving my airbag light on. Yesterday was fine but today while driving a short distance the radio turned off and the ABS and ESP lights came on. VCDS had a lot to say. See the log below. I'm certainly not trying to be lazy here but am posting it up in case anyone recognizes an obvious pattern. In the mean time I plan to check and clean the grounds, fuses, etc and do lots of online searching. The radio code is normal as I need to replace the antenna base.

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Part No: 038 906 012 GN
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 4308
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 629EA385DD51B447073-4B1E
WVWSP61J43W584256 VWZ7Z0C7460537
1 Fault Found:
17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF
P1503 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ESP-F.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 M
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Coding: 0019458
Shop #: WSC 01266 785 00200
VCID: 343215DD32256AF7A5F-5184
3 Faults Found:
00495 - ESP-Sensor Unit (G419); Supply Voltage
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 03 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0003
Coding: 12339
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 2708F291F6F3116F10D-513C
2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
06-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1J0-907-487-A.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 487 A
Component: Lenkradelektronik 0005
Coding: 00118
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 2F381AB1DE03492FD8D-5184
2 Faults Found:
00926 - Terminal 30
07-00 - Signal too Low
00926 - Terminal 30
06-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 L
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V11
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 16262
VCID: 313C1CC9C8375FDFCE9-513C
WVWSP61J43W584256 VWZ7Z0C7460537
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 70BAD9CD03BD16D7817-513C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 8A Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 372822D1265381EF80D-4B1E
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 8A Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0009
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 8A Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0009
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811A
Component: 8A Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0009
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812A
Component: 8A Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0009
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
52-10 - Supply Voltage Too High - Intermittent
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
52-10 - Supply Voltage Too High - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
52-10 - Supply Voltage Too High - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
52-10 - Supply Voltage Too High - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
52-10 - Supply Voltage Too High - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 E
Component: Radio NP2 0008
Coding: 04031
Shop #: WSC 01266
VCID: 221EE3859DD1F447473-513C
2 Faults Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
00856 - Radio Antenna
36-00 - Open Circuit
End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:10, VBatt start/end: 12.7V/12.5V)-----------

"1 Fault Found: 17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF" "Supply Voltage Too High" "Supply Voltage Too Low".. did the alternator light come on at all? Wonder if you got a spike in voltage due to a regulator failure/failing.

Otherwise I would check under the dash for any loose wires or connectors. Seems most of the faults have components in the steering column?

I would clear the codes and just drive it till you see any come back. Could be a battery issue. None of these are too important or worrying.

steve6 said:

...did the alternator light come on at all? Wonder if you got a spike in voltage due to a regulator failure/failing...

Click to expand...

It did briefly, yes. If I remember correctly it turned back off at the conclusion of the 'seizure'.

bigkahuna360 said:

I would clear the codes and just drive it till you see any come back. Could be a battery issue. None of these are too important or worrying.

Click to expand...

That's good to hear. I did clear them all in hopes of being able to get a cleaner scan asap should anything happen again.

How is charging voltage? It should be rock solid and about 14.5 volts. A flaky ground can cause fluctuating charging voltage. Also worn out brushes might as well.

If you do mostly short trips, over time, battery voltage can get so low that the charging voltage is less than it should be. This happened with my Grand Daughter's car. I put the battery charger on it overnight and the charging voltage came back up to about 14.5 volts with a fully charged battery. The charging voltage prior to charging the battery was something like 13.3 volts.

Charging a battery is a good way to test it. If the charging amps don't drop down to about 1/2 to 1 amp (overnight) but stay above 2 or 3 amps, the battery is shot. The parts house battery checkers are a joke.

A known problem on A4's is the junction box mounted on top of the battery. Battery acid fumes causes corrosion to the connections in it. Pop off the cover and look for signs of melting and corrosion.


https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19445/fuse-box-above-battery-melting
https://www.google.com/search?clien...+juncton+box&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Ol'Rattler said:

How is charging voltage? It should be rock solid and about 14.5 volts. A flaky ground can cause fluctuating charging voltage. Also worn out brushes might as well.

Click to expand...

I'm charging the battery now so I can crank it and check charging volts. It died from sitting for about a day so looks like I have an issue delivering the charge or holding it(battery).

Ol'Rattler said:

If you do mostly short trips, over time, battery voltage can get so low that the charging voltage is less than it should be.

Click to expand...

I do run around town in the car a lot but it also gets a regimented 60 mile/1 hour drive on the highway ~20 times a month to and from work.

Ol'Rattler said:

A known problem on A4's is the junction box mounted on top of the battery. Battery acid fumes causes corrosion to the connections in it. Pop off the cover and look for signs of melting and corrosion.

Click to expand...

The large red(2nd from left) wire does show some corrosion but it isn't horrible. I'm going to try and trace it in a bit to look it over well.

I charged the battery enough to start the car. The first voltage I could measure was ~8v and it only decreased and rapidly at that. By the time I got back into the car to turn it off the same dash lights had been set again and the radio was off. The battery is out now and on the charger. None of the wiring or grounds look too bad.

When out of the car the basically dead battery was reading ~12.5v. I'll test it when fully charged and again tonight or in the morning to see the drop. Looks like I need to research more on our alternators.

I pulled the voltage regulator. The brushes are approximately 6 and 9mm respectively as they sit in their spring loaded channels. The slip rings have grooves worn into them but nothing obviously excessive.

I'm just having trouble now finding how to tell if the unit itself is the issue or just the regulator assuming the battery tests well.

The car should not have been able to run at less then 9.6 volts.
If the batter is dropping that fast either there is a bad short or the battery is toast.

Check for AC voltage at the battery with the car running. I would not want to see much, less then a volt. (Don't remember the exact #, very low)
AC voltage indicates a bad diode also.

I would disconnect the fuse feeding the alternator and with the car off test for current from the battery + to the side of the fuse feeding the alternator.

If you get more then several milliamps (amperage would be way to high) it could be a bad diode in the alternator.

Alternator can be tested.
We do know that worn out batteries, even reading correct voltage, can cause all manner of electrical issues.

wonneber said:

The car should not have been able to run at less then 9.6 volts.
If the batter is dropping that fast either there is a bad short or the battery is toast.

Click to expand...

Yeah I found that extremely strange as well but certainly had good connections to a quality multimeter when reading that.

wonneber said:

Check for AC voltage at the battery with the car running. I would not want to see much, less then a volt. (Don't remember the exact #, very low)
AC voltage indicates a bad diode also.

I would disconnect the fuse feeding the alternator and with the car off test for current from the battery + to the side of the fuse feeding the alternator.

If you get more then several milliamps (amperage would be way to high) it could be a bad diode in the alternator.

Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you very much. I actually ordered a voltage regulator yesterday before seeing these replies. I loathe throwing parts at something but it was cheap and is a genuine Bosch unit so at worst I'll just have a good spare. In the meantime I'll go perform those tests.

I gave the battery a nice slow charge to full and have been testing its voltage since. Fresh off the charger it read 13.35v, 13.27v @ 10 hours, 13.17v @ 16 hours, and 13.05v just now. I feel pretty good about those but I suppose Bob's sentiment may still leave that as the problem source. I'd actually prefer that though because it is still under the free replacement of its warranty.

Thanks again. I'll report back as soon as I have something further.

Voltage is a good indicator but not definitive.
2 ways I know of to test a lead-acid battery. Load testing or specific gravity.
Seems you're on the right track. I'd bet money the original issue was a wire/connection issue which will get sorted out as a result of the work you're doing.

Sounds like an alternator died to me, possibly brought on by a bad connection at the link box (common) and possibly a less than stellar battery.

Despite popular belief, more batteries die in extreme heat than extreme cold. And a battery is is on its death bed, and outgassing and being unable to take and hold a charge will tax an alternator and all its connections to the point of failure, ESPECIALLY on a really hot day.

I just got the new voltage regulator in place. The battery was still sitting at 13v after the load test and with no extra charging. Fired it up and was charging 14.1-.2v with no accessories running. Turned the AC on full and radio up high and dropped to 13.86-.96v. I'm going to let it run a while and keep checking it then take it on a drive. I still need to run the previous suggested tests but for now am showing positive results.

The old brushes were certainly worn down but not less than recommended acceptable lengths. I also cleaned lots of grounds, terminals, and studs. At this point I'm not really sure what part was the repair and what part was PM. I still need to clean off the end of the largest red battery fuse box wire but hopefully it's whipped...for now.

This car is fairly new to me yet. I got it in September or October and did tons of PM immediately but I suppose we are still getting to know each other. I'd call this is akin to the first fart.

BOSCH alternator voltage regulator part #s for those in need:
VW 038903803EX OR Bosch F00M144136

BobnOH said:

Voltage is a good indicator but not definitive.
2 ways I know of to test a lead-acid battery. Load testing or specific gravity.
Seems you're on the right track. I'd bet money the original issue was a wire/connection issue which will get sorted out as a result of the work you're doing.

Click to expand...

I had the battery load tested 4 days ago. Didn't have time to go to the truck shop so I took it to a local battery store. 400 amps for 15 or 20 seconds and it didn't wince. Not sure how that compares to what cca our cars actually pull.

oilhammer said:

Sounds like an alternator died to me, possibly brought on by a bad connection at the link box (common) and possibly a less than stellar battery.

Despite popular belief, more batteries die in extreme heat than extreme cold. And a battery is is on its death bed, and outgassing and being unable to take and hold a charge will tax an alternator and all its connections to the point of failure, ESPECIALLY on a really hot day.

Click to expand...

You described my environment pretty well. It's not just extremely hot but significantly humid as well. Does the factory battery box contribute to heat retention and filth build up? I like the factory look of things like that but am considering just leaving it off.

If your taking the big feed wire off then clean the fuse feeding the alternator at the same time.
Did you test for AC voltage with the car running?

wonneber said:

If your taking the big feed wire off then clean the fuse feeding the alternator at the same time.
Did you test for AC voltage with the car running?

Click to expand...

Just got done. I could not produce any AC voltage with the car running. When I engaged both probes a value would briefly flash then return to zero and stay.

I checked for current between B+ and alternator at both the fuse end and alternator stud. I could produce .7v DC but no amperage with B- removed and 13v and no amperage with B- in place.

The fuse block is all very clean. The only thing I can readily perceive is some light acid corrosion on the exposed copper of fuse 7. I went ahead and brushed the alternator fuse too but can't imagine there is elevated resistance there.

Would baking soda/water the vinegar be the best way to clean the end of that wire?

Any other advice? Everything has been very helpful.

Did acid get spilled on the fuse/wire?
Clean, dry and shiny metal connections are what you want.
The baking soda is for cleaning and neutralizing the battery terminals.

flee said:

Did acid get spilled on the fuse/wire?
Clean, dry and shiny metal connections are what you want.
The baking soda is for cleaning and neutralizing the battery terminals.

Click to expand...

Nah, but there's a touch of that powdery acid crap on just the copper strands of the fuse 7 wire. Maybe from the battery off-gassing? Just a little scraping shows nice clean wire so I figured a little chemical cleaning might be the ticket.

Redman84 said:

Just got done. I could not produce any AC voltage with the car running. When I engaged both probes a value would briefly flash then return to zero and stay.

I checked for current between B+ and alternator at both the fuse end and alternator stud. I could produce .7v DC but no amperage with B- removed and 13v and no amperage with B- in place.

The fuse block is all very clean. The only thing I can readily perceive is some light acid corrosion on the exposed copper of fuse 7. I went ahead and brushed the alternator fuse too but can't imagine there is elevated resistance there.

Would baking soda/water the vinegar be the best way to clean the end of that wire?

Any other advice? Everything has been very helpful.

Click to expand...

Good there's no AC voltage.

Clean the corrosion on the fuse, it will help.
Baking soda/water is OK.
There are aerosol spray leaners also.

Once you have it back together you could measure the running voltage from the positive post on the alternator to the post (not clamp) of the battery positive.
Have the AC and lights on.
I would not want to see more then a few tenths of a volt.

Same on the negative side.
Case of the alternator to the negative post of the battery.