Door Locking issues

okay so I know that there is a million threads about door locking issues and i may have read 900k if them, none seeming to help. i have a mk4 golf 4 dr, here's my situation:
when i use my key fob it only locks&unlocks both rear doors, neither front doors do a thing (key fob will also pop hatch). now when im in the car and press the lock/unlock button on the master switch the only door that does anything is the driver door and it locks&unlocks..here's the kicker, the only time the switch works to luck/unlock is when the door card is off and disassembled. and when assembled the locking rod won't even press down if i physically try to push it down. i have vcds with a genuine ross tech cable, i've tried reprogramming both keys, no luck, i've tried taking the neg terminal off the battery for 10 minutes and it resetting, i've checked out if there is any broken/frayed wires in the boot from the body to into the door and everything looks fine (and yes i know i have to press the fob button twice for all the doors to unlock obviously because that's how i know the backs are working from the fob). so what id like to know is:
1) why is my key fob only working for the rear doors and not the front/how do i get it to operate the front doors as well?
2) why is my passenger door not responding to anything (master switch or fob)
3) why is the master switch communicating to the driver door but not any other door?
4) why does the master switch only lock&unlock when the door is disassembled?

any insight/info would be hugely appreciated as ive been dealing with and trying to figure this out now for a while, need less to say frustration is mounting lol but trying to stay positive, after all its only electronics....

thanks in advance,
Tom

did you change anything such as a window motor/window regulator? or other components in the door(any of them)

did it ever work?

Lock_t said:

when assembled the locking rod won't even press down if i physically try to push it down.

Click to expand...

My driver door button will not push down (or electrically) if the door is open.
If your door is closed and the button does not push down something is wrong with the latch mechanism.

I'm thinking there's a problem in the controller that you remove to get things working.

Rich W.

thanks for the replies guys. no i have never changed/replaced any of those components and no it has not worked since i bought the car. im not sure about pushing it down open vs closed ill have to try but when the door is apart i can move it to the lock and unlock position with the rod. and what do you mean by the controller?

'what do you mean by the controller'

The controller is attached to the window motor if I recall correctly.
8 or 10 pin connector.

Rich W.

there was two different window motors, throughout the years and these have some logic in them, I would make sure you have the right one, these wonky issues seem to occur when people do swap outs (typically cause the regulator failed) and put a newer or older motor in.

id also be checking for broken wires in the door jam areas.

oh yea both of them are connected securely. how do i figure out which one is proper for my car? i did look at the wiring in the door jam, i took the rubber off and inspected each wire because ive read that can be the culprit at times causing these things to go wonky. I can always double check but when i did the first time everything looked fine. I did a full scan, here are results: (i have check all my fuses and they're fine - unless there is a missing one that idk about? and it is a new battery in the car)
Monday,19,September,2016,18:37:26:42750
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 16.8.1.3 (x64)
Data version: 20160902 DS256
www.Ross-Tech.com




Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

Mileage: 265790km-165154miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 CP
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2839
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 60CE239DE0E55D42CE-4AE8

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 3E72BDE53AD14BB29C-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: 14 AIRBAG VW5 02 0004
Coding: 12596
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 3560A2C90FE788EA4D-4AE8

2 Faults Found:
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
32-00 - Resistance Too High
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
32-00 - Resistance Too High

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 905 L
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V06
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 40652
VCID: 306E93DDF085ADC21E-5140

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2528859
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2528859

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 70EE53DD3005EDC25E-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 60 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 060215052281D37294-4AE8

Subsystem 1 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht

Subsystem 2 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t Beif. antwortet nicht

Subsystem 3 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t HL antwortet nicht

Subsystem 4 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t HR antwortet nicht

10 Faults Found:
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-00 - No Communications
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01179 - Incorrect Key Programming
35-00 - -
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
49-00 - No Communications
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
49-00 - No Communications

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:10)--------------------------

OK, basics -- you know that the door locks and windows are run through the Central Convenience computer module, right? Look at your scan:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
(snip)
Subsystem 1 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht
Subsystem 2 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Beif. antwortet nicht
Subsystem 3 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t HL antwortet nicht
Subsystem 4 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t HR antwortet nicht

10 Faults Found:
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) - No Communications
00955 - Key 1 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01179 - Incorrect Key Programming
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) - No Communications
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) - No Communications
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) - No Communications

It looks to me like the Central Convenience computer is a wreck (or is about 1/2 unplugged - but I'm betting on wrecked). My car the sunroof opens and closes on it's own sometimes (never when the ignition is off, thank goodness) and I had to have "somebody who knows something about computers" bypass the computer for the instrument lights. Also, the windows are wonky - sometimes they do the "one touch up and down" and sometimes they won't. I figure I'm not far from the thing going South completely.
These Central Convenience computers and their wiring are just bad news. It's just a WAIG, but I think you should look first at the Central computer.
As I said, I had somebody who knew how to do it (he'd obviously done it before often) bypass my instrument lights. How practical it is to bypass the door locks, I dunno - there are lots of wires, sensors, actuators, etc. all through the car. The door latches are involved, too and they're not the greatest.
It may be that a CC computer from a junkyard would solve your problems but maybe not.

PS - The fact that you can't push down the button when the driver's door is open is an "anti-lockout-feature". It's a lockout built into the latch - nothing to do with the central door locks but that doesn't mean that the central locking portion is the latch is working right. PITA, I know.

One other thing. You said that you tried programming the key/fob for door look operation with VCDS. That may be possible - even the best way to do it - but I've always done the key programming with the key-in-the-door procedure. The fault code scan shows that the computer doesn't see your key properly programmed for the door locks but that may be a fault of the computer not recognizing what you've done correctly.
(VCDS *must* be used to program the key to the antitheft/immobilizer function in the ignition but that's totally separate from the door lock programming.)

Didn't I see his exact thread on VWVortex?

Ahh, yes - check my response also

Door Locking issues - #mTalk http://forums.vwvortex.com//showthread.php?t=8191161

Perfectreign said:

Didn't I see his exact thread on VWVortex?

Ahh, yes - check my response also

Door Locking issues - #mTalk http://forums.vwvortex.com//showthread.php?t=8191161

Click to expand...

yea lol ive been posting everywhere to try and figure it out, but thanks i did see your post on vortex

mrGutWrench said:

OK, basics -- you know that the door locks and windows are run through the Central Convenience computer module, right? Look at your scan:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
(snip)
Subsystem 1 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht
Subsystem 2 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Beif. antwortet nicht
Subsystem 3 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t HL antwortet nicht
Subsystem 4 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t HR antwortet nicht

10 Faults Found:
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) - No Communications
00955 - Key 1 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01179 - Incorrect Key Programming
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) - No Communications
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) - No Communications
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) - No Communications

It looks to me like the Central Convenience computer is a wreck (or is about 1/2 unplugged - but I'm betting on wrecked). My car the sunroof opens and closes on it's own sometimes (never when the ignition is off, thank goodness) and I had to have "somebody who knows something about computers" bypass the computer for the instrument lights. Also, the windows are wonky - sometimes they do the "one touch up and down" and sometimes they won't. I figure I'm not far from the thing going South completely.
These Central Convenience computers and their wiring are just bad news. It's just a WAIG, but I think you should look first at the Central computer.
As I said, I had somebody who knew how to do it (he'd obviously done it before often) bypass my instrument lights. How practical it is to bypass the door locks, I dunno - there are lots of wires, sensors, actuators, etc. all through the car. The door latches are involved, too and they're not the greatest.
It may be that a CC computer from a junkyard would solve your problems but maybe not.

PS - The fact that you can't push down the button when the driver's door is open is an "anti-lockout-feature". It's a lockout built into the latch - nothing to do with the central door locks but that doesn't mean that the central locking portion is the latch is working right. PITA, I know.

Click to expand...

Thanks a ton man so helpful! if you couldn't tell im obviously still learning but i was starting to figure that either the wiring is shot (didnt seem like it to me) or something is funky with the cpu cause the probability of each individual door having the exact same issue was unlikely. so ill look into the ccm and go from there

I have a 1j vin so I'm assuming if I get a ccm from a car out of a junkyard it has to be from another 1j car?? Please correct me otherwise

okay update, so I've been searching around and also doing some checking on my car and feel now that something is definitely screwy with the CCM, as I've come to find out it seems that there are frequently issues with these things. So I've been looking into how to replace them and what the deal is with them and my understanding of it is that the part number of the CCM is based on the VIN # of the car (mine being a 1J) which is rather easy to figure out being that it's stamped on the CCM. But then the 2nd critical number is the component number and the component number of the new CCM needs to match the component number of the one that you have in your car currently. And apparently the component number can only be figured out by using something like vcds to do a scan on the proper channel but the scan MUST be done before the CCM is disconnected from either car and both have to be matching. With that said, and what I've read there are 4 types if CCMs with many different combinations:

1) early years
2) late years
3) manual windows
4) power windows

(i'm assuming the early and late years are split between 99.5-05.5?)

Now if this is all the case, i have an early year (2001) and power windows, i did a scan on channel 46 (i have power windows otherwise it would be channel 35) and found out my component number. Now the difficult task to find the proper CCM with both matching part numbers and component numbers.

So i guess i'm looking for some sort of validation or rejection and clarification as to the accuracy of this info (my feelings won't be hurt i just want to figure this out). I've been to the junk yard and thought about pulling a CCM out of a car but i am hesitant to do so because of the fact that none of the cars have batteries in them so i am unable to do any scans on the cars to figure out the component numbers of the CCM in those cars. Otherwise i wouldn't be writing this out. So if anybody has any thoughts or corrections or whatever I'm open to them.

VCDS Scan i did on channel 46:
VAG Number: 1JO 959 799AJ Component: 60 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Soft Coding: 04096 Shop #: WSC 00001
Extra: random numbers and words in German
Extra: same as ^

So still haven't gotten things 100% I'm wondering if non matching part numbers are causing the locks to be wonky still?
Subsystem 1 - part number: 1J1959801C
Component 61 (some german word) FS0001R
Subsystem 2 - part number: 1J1959802D
Component 60 (some german word) BF0002r
Subsystem 3 - part number: 1J4959811C
Component 60 (some german word) HL0002r
Subsystem 4 - part number: 1J4959812C
Component 60 (some german word) HR0002r

I also have a 01030 code. I've put a new CCM in and I believe a window motor and lock actuator. I may just break everything down and start from scratch. Any insight appreciated.

Did you rescan block 64?
Any chance there's a non VW radio in the car?

No ill have to check that, do you mean 46-central convenience?
I have an aftermarket stereo and system in my car which I do know can throw things out of wack.
I seemed to have solved the locking issues but I've noticed that neither front door brings on a dome light and no doors register open on the cluster. There's no door open chime, no headlight chime or hood open light on cluster either. I'm sure it's all related somehow but exactly how is beyond me. There's also no confirmation beep when locked which I have programed in vcds to do.

Did you look up the code on Ross-Tech?
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01030

Did the part no. on the replacement CCM match?

That no dome light is typical of door actuator malfunction (Stupid $2 door something or other).

Running a scan now.
Yes the CCM was matching part numbers. And this is now the third driver door lock actuator that I've had in the car. What are the chances that all three of the switches have been bad?

The scan I just did produced 8 faults in block 46:
01331, 01038, 01179, 00943, 01358, 00913, 00915, 00944

Edit: cleared all DTCs, did a rescan and nothing came up

I've gone into vcds central conv meas blocks and as far as I can tell everything seems to be functioning accordingly. I verified the hood latch is reading open and closed properly. Yet why am I not getting it on my cluster?..
VCDS is reading each window as it should and reading both rear doors rotary latch 0 1 to 1 1 properly but what about the fronts? S**t is crazy

I don't recall my hood open ever displays either.
It is a bit confusing.
There are 3 switches in the door motor to sense door open, lock open, and lock closed.
With all the codes above I wonder if it's broken wires in the boot where the wires go from the body to the door.

I think I'm wrong about the hood thing so nvm about that.
I did clear those codes which I never had before and they haven't come back so I'm sort of disregarding them. When I first got the car I looked in in the door boot pretty well and all was intact.
I'll have to look more into the open, lock open, and lock closed thanks!

I'm beginning to think now both front door switches are shot as much as i hate to say it because tearing the doors down and putting them back together is getting old lol but otherwise i have not the slightest what it could be.

I think there's a ground behind the drivers side kick panel.
Water has been known to get inside the area.

I spent to much time diagnosing my driver door not turning the lights on.
I finally took the entire latch assembly out to find it was 2 of the switches inside it.
Got frustrated and replaced the entire thing.

thats not a bad idea, but if the ground was intermittent would the functionality of the door/window be too?
it is definitely time-consuming and can be frustrating but there's got to be a solution somewhere! thanks for your input!

If the door was grounding to the same point but was a good connection it would work.
It can be time consuming trying to find electrical issues.
The age of the cars and the thin wire VW used does not help.