Bypass filter kit install

Is there a way to disassemble the oil filler cap, so as to better drill the hole for the return fitting that goes through it on a Amsoil brand kit?

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Do you have a link to the kit that you’re referring to? I’ve seen some kits that actually have adapters that you add on the bottom and then the filter housing on top and that way it’s a seamless engineered solution.


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Bmk21, the universal single kit on Amsoils site.


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https://www.idparts.com/oil-capccv-breather-adapter-p-1188.html
as an idea

STDOUBT said:

https://www.idparts.com/oil-capccv-breather-adapter-p-1188.html
as an idea

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I have this part in one of my parts boxes. I had it on my souped up 2002. Now I have the whole suspension, transmission, clutch, and lots of parts.

Found this.
https://insanediesel.com/products/volkswagen-swivel-port-oil-filler-cap/

Why are you Installing such a non value added filter kit to your car? Is the ability of the OEM filter to be reliable to 400K miles not enough? I have no clue why folks think that there is some valid reason to add additional filtration to their OEM oil system.

Please don't drink the Amsoil KoolAid. I guess if you already have the Amsoil hat and jacket and are in the habit of randomly spewing Amsoil marketing nonsense, you are already lost. If you can get your self free from the Amsoil cult please do come back for some actual real world discussions on topics relating to your car.

I have to agree with Ol’Rattler. I’d focus on using good oil (Rotella T6 - 5w40) and changing it and a good Mann filter every 5k miles. I know that people will say that you can run to 10k miles, but I’m just sharing what I do.


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I run 20k miles with proper oil and Mann filter.... 556k miles so far. *shrug*.

Satsonic said:

I have to agree with Ol’Rattler. I’d focus on using good oil (Rotella T6 - 5w40) and changing it and a good Mann filter every 5k miles. I know that people will say that you can run to 10k miles, but I’m just sharing what I do.


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Agreed, except for the 5K mile oil changes. At 188K miles my engines does seem to be just fine with 10K mile oil changes. Would 5K mile oil changes saved my cam? My best guess would be probably not.

If that filter made the oil not opaque I'd be impressed with it.

Not saying it would do anything to improve the life of the engine, just that it would show it was doing "something".

Background: this uoa is from four years ago, at which time I was testing extended mileage on that particular oil.

This is a post Amsoil bypass filter sample. Take a peek at the particle count.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showfull.php?photo=108052


Now I'm running Schaeffer Supreme 9000 5w-40 and 10k OCI.


.

oilhammer said:

I run 20k miles with proper oil and Mann filter.... 556k miles so far. *shrug*.

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Glad to see I'm not the only one going the extended OCI route. I do 15k on my TDI and have not had any problems in over 200k miles. This is my low mileage car. I gave my son my '02 1.8T Jetta with 419K on the original engine using quality synthetic oil and filters and it is going strong still doing the same 15k OCI.

STDOUBT said:

https://www.idparts.com/oil-capccv-breather-adapter-p-1188.html
as an idea

Click to expand...

If someone wants that I have one and will sell it for $30 + shipping from 55412

phaser said:

Background: this uoa is from four years ago, at which time I was testing extended mileage on that particular oil.

This is a post Amsoil bypass filter sample. Take a peek at the particle count.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showfull.php?photo=108052


Now I'm running Schaeffer Supreme 9000 5w-40 and 10k OCI.


.

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Sounds like you need to be de-programed from the Amsoil cult. Do you have the Amsoil hat, jacket and randomly spout random Amsoil nonsense?

I look at that report, and I see numbers that seem to be higher than previous reports. Which "particle count" specifically are you looking at?

I have the Dieselgeek bypass filter kit on my ALH wagon, and I must say that I feel a bit depressed about the supposedly "amazing" filtration that happens, it doesn't keep the oil from turning black in the slightest. Dieselgeek's kit uses the Amsoil filter, which seems to be a very overpriced regular filter.

I'm with some of the others, if the result was oil that stayed honey color, I would be much more impressed with the quality and the results. Otherwise... Pfft.

I use quality oil and change it on schedule. That seems to be the best option, for an engine that has now found 400k miles and is still in amazing shape.

oilhammer said:

I run 20k miles with proper oil and Mann filter.... 556k miles so far. *shrug*.

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Are you on all original engine components? Meaning CAM / Lifters etc? Was the 556k miles mostly you or did you buy it with a ton of miles? Not trying to call you out - just trying to learn whether I can make any improvements on my oil change habits.


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Geordi said:

I look at that report, and I see numbers that seem to be higher than previous reports. Which "particle count" specifically are you looking at?

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Note the lube time.


And note the particle count at the bottom of the report. That's where the 2 mic filter does the real job.


.

Well, with the results and clean from my deleted truck running a bypass filter and the fact I've not seen any other uoa that had over 100k miles on 1 single oil change, ill stick with the Amsoil.

Since no one else has any scientific evidence to support their claims of a better oil, I'm all ears if you want to post factual data.

Also, t6 5w40 rotella, it's junk, it shears down a grade in viscosity in 10k miles. I'll not be using that junk oil that can not maintain viscosity.

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Satsonic said:

Are you on all original engine components? Meaning CAM / Lifters etc? Was the 556k miles mostly you or did you buy it with a ton of miles? Not trying to call you out - just trying to learn whether I can make any improvements on my oil change habits.


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No, I bought the car pre-tooefed at 383k, courtesy of a dealer tech installing the timing belt incorrectly (tensioner tensioned backwards).

The cylinder head was beyond reasonable repair, it had a couple cracked pistons and three bent rods. It got a reconditioned head, new rods, new pistons, new rod bearings (although the originals were fine, but one was damaged from the severity of that rod's shape), new oil pump drive chain and tensioner. The block, crank, mains, are all original. The engine (other than the damage caused by negligence) looked perfectly fine otherwise when I tore it apart. I never even removed it from the car.

I service a LOT of these cars. The factory oil system is perfectly adequate, I see FAR too many of these engines with 300k, 400k, 500k miles to think otherwise. Plenty of things that go wrong on these cars, plenty of things that could use improvement, but this really isn't one of them. I have actually seen more issues with added on things of this nature causing a problem, like an external line or fitting suddenly breaking and causing a massive loss of oil.

oilhammer said:

No, I bought the car pre-tooefed at 383k, courtesy of a dealer tech installing the timing belt incorrectly (tensioner tensioned backwards).

I service a LOT of these cars. The factory oil system is perfectly adequate, I see FAR too many of these engines with 300k, 400k, 500k miles to think otherwise.

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Thanks for your response. Didn’t realize that you were a VW tech. I grew up changing oil at a local place through high school and our motto was always “oil is cheap when compared to engine components” I guess old habits are just hard to break. I’ll see how I can extend my interval, sounds like it won’t be a problem.

I was just going to do an EGR cooler delete, intake clean out and MPG eco tune on my 06 TDi. Any thoughts or experience on this?



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Gta88ws6 said:

Also, t6 5w40 rotella, it's junk, it shears down a grade in viscosity in 10k miles. I'll not be using that junk oil that can not maintain viscosity.

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This is why we cant have nice message boards.... rotella is all i ever used in 800,000 miles in my 2 a4's i had, zero engine issues. It's great you want to go 100,000 miles on a single oil change but when you break down what the cost per mile is to drive by doing it to VW recommendations you are talking factions of a cent difference.

Lex Tdi said:

This is why we cant have nice message boards.... rotella is all i ever used in 800,000 miles in my 2 a4's i had, zero engine issues.

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LOL - I couldn’t agree more. They make an excellent product that has been tried and tested. LOL


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Satsonic said:

Thanks for your response. Didn’t realize that you were a VW tech. I grew up changing oil at a local place through high school and our motto was always “oil is cheap when compared to engine components” I guess old habits are just hard to break. I’ll see how I can extend my interval, sounds like it won’t be a problem.

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'
Another marketing thing I remember from back in the day was that If you are one quart low 1/5th of your engine oil protection is gone.

I solve that problem easy - running all my engines with "too much" oil, as too much is less bad than not enough!

(Just a bit extra, not crazy amounts)

Too much can cause foaming and then starve to engine of oil.

I still hear commercials stating to get oil changes every 3000k miles. I do my car at 10 k like the manual- although I likely should do what oil hammer does at 20 k since that is what across the pond does. I do my Honda van when it tells me which is around 7500 miles. Still going at 230k miles good. Funny thing is not all Honda dealers carry engine oil to sell to customers.

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