Won't start :(

It does... but that fuse doesn't seem to have the radio on it.

right. Duh.

Did you disable the door switch, arm the alarm and then wait 5-10 min for the convenience module to go to sleep?

Well, can't find any drain, left my battery connected for a few days just for fun. Saw my volts go down quite slowly to 12.4V and now it won't start again.

Does a car really require 12.6 to start and even 12.4V renders it dead and useless?

I walked up to my car, the dash lights were fine, clock was running, and it wouldn't even try to turn over when I turned the key, no clicking even. Suddenly, the clock dies, dash lights die, and now it's as though dead.

Seems fishy to me, but maybe such a small voltage drop in the battery causes this?

Put the MM on the battery and read the voltage. Now turn the key to start and watch the voltage.

I finally got some noticeable draw!!! It fluctuated a lot but was between 1200 to 1800mA most of the time.

I pulled each and every fuse with almost no luck, and then we saw things drop a good 300+mA after pulling fuse 42, the monsoon system. Thing was, the draw still showed a good 800mA, but at least it was a start.

I checked everything else I could and found nothing would bring it to 0-50mA.

Question, if I've tried pulling every fuse and nothing reliably brings the draw even close to acceptable (40mA), what else could it be?

I tried a test of the alternator diode I found online (below) and got a measurement of 30 AC volts.

Can someone else confirm this test as explained in this article is accurate and points to a bad diode? If so, that must be it.

"If your voltmeter has an AC (alternating current) scale, switch to that scale and observe the charging voltage with the engine running. If the meter shows any AC voltage, one or more diodes are leaking and the alternator needs to be replaced."