First gen 4runner conversion

Still have a few things to do when I find some time.

-Finish Air Filter plumbing/Airbox
-Get 150A fuse and wire alternator to battery
-Power steering system
-Lift pump
-Clean up interior wiring and mount the ECU
-Install A-pillar gauge pod with Autometer Ultra-lite II EGT, Boost and Oil Temp sensors
-a Few odds and ends

Videos!

4Runner TDI Walk-Around

4Runner TDI Drive-By

4Runner TDI Drive-Up

videos are awesome man!....sounds so familiar .... I really dig the underhood hand throttle too.... I was attempting something similar on my swap but the spring was way too stiff on the MKIV throttle sensor.... how's the power so far?

Nice. The videos are sweet. Good to see another one on the road.

The Toyotas just sound right with the diesel rattling under the hood

Bczuk said:

The Toyotas just sound right with the diesel rattling under the hood

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I couldn't agree more....something totally harmonic about the vw/yota combo

Im thinking the MKIII throttle must have a lighter spring, the pedal feels just how I like it. Nice to keep the stock toyota cable/pedal, something about solid metal pedals

As far as the power goes its pretty good, about on par with the 22re. Im still chasing down this code though:

01268 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
18-00 - Upper Limit

I ran a bottle of diesel purge through it the other day which definitely helped in the power department, but didnt clear the code as I hoped. I was taking some reading with VCDS and my IQ jumps around quite a bit at idle. Its about 3.8 on average but jumps 2.0-4.0 when it feels like it, the idle lopes pretty hard when it drops to around 2.

Im thinking new IP is in my near future. Engine does have 300k Going to try the hammer mod when I get some time but I don't see that helping, as the average value is fine.

Also one thing I will mention, I underestimated the vibes coming out of the TDi at idle. That thing is a teeth rattler! If I was to do the motor mounts again I would definitely go with hydraulic...Maybe a project in the future.

Also noticed when I was logging that my QA voltage jumped past the limit. I think its ~2.4 and it hopes to 3.6 when I hammer on it. Hard to know what this engine is supposed to "feel" like. Never driven a TDi before

I guess your mounts are used and already broken in?....my mounts were a little stiff to begin with but did break in over the next few thousand miles....not too shaky at all...

Not sure about the mounts. I been playing more and more with VCDS (so much to learn) and didn't realize that my IQ has been low most of the time. So the vibes are really from the lousy idle and not so much the mounts.

....and the reason I was playing with my IQ.



Bosio - PowerPlus 520

Wooo baby!

THIS is why I put in a TDI. Never have I put in a few hours and a few hundred dollars to have such a difference!! This truck pulls so nicely now..much better than the v6 turd that I pulled out. Not fast but its got some nice torque for sure.

Im really starting to hate living in the 'burbs man!! I need to get some plates on this thing so I can go give it some nice WOT hauls. Whoever said this engine will be too small to move a truck this heavy has never driven a TDi!

Unfortunately my N146 code still plagues me. Im thinking a new pump is on the horizon..I have started a thread about it here. Going to try hammer modding as a last resort, but the IQ bounces so crazy sometimes. I dont think it will help.

What is your hot IQ numbers @ idle with no AC?....should be somewhere between 3 and 6....I like to run mine @ 3.6 .... a missadjusted IQ will definitely set a code for limit reached as well as cause a very lumpy idle (slowdown shudder) .... nozzles are nice!!...yes, the best bang for the buck for sure!!

Put some detailed info in that new thread. Essentially it wont hold an IQ value...If I set it to be around 4 it will hop around 1 - 9 half of the time. I think the QA is shot honestly. It reads 3.74V when it does its sweep which is way too low.

Made some progress on the QA issue i've been experiencing. I managed to find the time to pop off the IP top cover and take a look inside. As far as I know, when the key is turned on, the QA electromagnet is powered to max and minimum states. Therefore making a "sweep" from max to min.

Here is a picture of the injection pump with the top cover off.


You can see the sweeping mechanism on the top near the back. The max and min sweep points were 4.5V and .74V respectively, whereas my max sweep value was going to only 3.5V. This low value was giving me the

17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Upper Limit Reached
P1562 - 35-00

I decide to check the sweep, when I moved it by hand it went to 4.7V at max position. The first time I moved it to max, I noticed some resistance...most likely some grime down lower in the body.So I wiggle to wiper back and fourth to try and free it up a bit.

SUCCESS. First time I cycle ignition it shoots to 4.5V.
Here is a video of the sweep.

I cycled quite a few times to make sure I was getting max position...yup all good. I fire it up and WOW. It runs much smoother now, no CEL or flashing GP light woohoo. QA is steady at 5mg/stroke.

Unfortunately....when I got back from my drive I noticed the value dropped to 4.2V tripping the upper limit code. I had to run too so didn't have time to dink with it any more. My thoughts are that some of the crap got back in the way of the sweep. Wishful thinking I guess

Will update soon.

Got my badge in the mail too!
Its from dubstopimports on Ebay, cheap and fast shipping

when you manually sweep the arm and feel resistance it usually means some varnish has built up on the plunger....probably a ring of gum @ or near the limit of the QA sweep....I'd pull the QA off and hit the piston and fuel collar with carb cleaner, manually working the collar back and forth untill it glides from one end of the piston to the other....brake cleaner seems to be ineffective but carb cleaner cuts the gum quick!!...I've had the sticky collar issue on several pumps and this is how I clean em'....good luck!!

Will do jim, figured it was something along those lines. Going to try that when I get some time...Few more finals to write - all next week off woohoo!

So the mailman dropped of some presents in the mail. Ex
-Autometer Ultra-Lite II Boost, Egt and Oil temp
-Afe Dry-flow Filter (May be too small though)
-Truckpillars A-piller gauge pod


Excuse the crooked gauges, the studs were too long and need to be cut, just a mock up.

Very excite!

Well back in classes so progress has been a little slow lately. Managed to get all of the gauges hooked up and finished off the power steering system.

For the Pyro I found that the egr cooler had to be taken off to get a proper spot for the probe. You will want to probe as close to the center of the turbo flange as possible. Its a little tricky to tell where that is on the funny shaped AHU manifold, but i hope the pictures help.

Also, just letting the engine idle while your drilling/tapping the manifold works wonders. The force of the exhaust coming out shoots the shavings out with no problem.

EGR cooler off


Final EGR probe placement


For the boost I pulled one of the upper IC pipes and tapped the aluminum pipe and used a 1/8"NPT compression fitting with the nylon line. Works great.

As for the oil temp the oil filter housing has a nice port with a hex plug in it. Popped that out and the oil temp sensor slid right in.

Keeping the wiring clean was tricky in itself. Make sure you tidy up!

For the power steering system I cut the end of the high pressure toyota line and pump end of the VW high pressure line. I took these bits to a local machince shop and had them silver soldered together. Was planning to try it myself but some system run 1000+ psi. Better leave it to the pro's!

Toyota line on bottom left and bottom right. VW banjo fitting seen on the top


Finished product. Power steering system feels great, not too light. I didnt have to modify the pressure output of the pump.

Hoorah for power steering! Keep it up!

Nice job with the PS line. I like the idea of just silver soldering the VW end on the Toyota line. Now I just need to find the VW banjo.

Thanx,
Jaysin

Nice work. Im going to use that PS line tip

My toyota banjo fit on my VW pump... I just had my toyota line shortened up by a shop. $60 for the high pressure side and $20 for the low pressure/return.

Danielg42 said:

My toyota banjo fit on my VW pump... I just had my toyota line shortened up by a shop. $60 for the high pressure side and $20 for the low pressure/return.

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amazing how that works out huh?....I just had to tweak the line a bit on mine and weld up the toyota pressure sensor as a plug, even used the toyota banjo bolt!!...it's almost like toyota designed the engine to fit ... well parts of it at least

Well got some time to mess around with the IP a little more. As most of you know im chasing the code.

17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Upper Limit Reached
P1562 - 35-00

My earlier attempts have proven fruitless so I decided its time to dig a little deeper. This time I removed the quantity adjuster as a whole, didnt know it came out like that...handy. You can see the QA assembly with the top cover removed on the right and the rest of the pump on the left.



With the QA removed, you can clearly see the collar and plunger. Pretty neat to see how this pump works, some great thinking there.

Below you can see the collar slid at the at it maximum fuelling point (back of pump). Its seems as though since the port is blocked by the collar, all of the fuel is pumped to the engine. The hole in the collar is for the QA arm.



Next pic is upside down, back of pump is at the bottom of pic. Here you can see the port in the plunger, which since the collar isnt blocking, would inject back into the pump as opposed to the engine.



Well unfortunately for me, I was hoping for some gunk on the collar/plunger relationship. But alas, it was clean.

Atleast I got to see some cool mechanics at work. Replacement pump is on the way.

So I manage to find a decent used pump from an AHU engine. When the pump arrived i notice how different it looked from my AHU pump. Apparently there was a changeover in 98 some from a smooth body pump to a ribbed body pump.

All I needed was a good pump head, but as you can see here, the even the heads are quite different.


Well I try it out anyhow.

So I get the new head on an managed to place it roughly where the old one was. Turn the engine over, BRAAAAAAAAPAPAPAPAPAPAPAPA and its like somebody put a fat brick on the gas pedal. Oh S*$#!!

Scramble for the key and manage to turn it off. Whew. Caught a glimpse of the IQ bouncing around 0-1ish...Maybe I should start with a higher IQ. Didn't realize you can read IQ values while the engine is just turning over and not running.

So I hammer it to a higher IQ value...30....hammer..20...hammer...10...hammer..5.

Perfect.

Truck now idles beautifully! More power and throttle response as well. So much so that I now spike to 20psi boost on WOT pulls. Guess, I'll to have to look into that.

Next stop, getting papers in order and insurance.
Couldn't be any sooner either. Im thinking winter is right around the corner, 2 wheels isnt going to cut it!

awesome and ohh $#!^ at the same time!...yeah accidental WOT can really be exciting!!....glad you got the power issue sorted...it always feels good to solve a head scratcher!!

jimbote said:

awesome and ohh $#!^ at the same time!...yeah accidental WOT can really be exciting!!....glad you got the power issue sorted...it always feels good to solve a head scratcher!!

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Haha for sure! I can see why a runaway on engine oil would be terrifying. I'm sure glad I could kill it with the turn of a key instead of trying to kill the air.

Reminded me of this video. Fun starts at 2:00, respect to that old man.

Just found your thread--Cool!

I recently bought a '94 4Runner, and my TDI Golf was rear ended the other day, so I am considering options...

Glad to see that the power comparison is acceptable. That was one of my first questions.

One thing I was curious about: Mine has the 5 speed already. Does this mean my engine would sit in the right place with regards to the stuff on the back of head and the firewall?

Do you have a file that could be used to have an adapter plate made, or measurements or something? Or could you have another made?

Thanks

Honestly, the power isn't just acceptable. With only PP520's the truck pulls harder then any 22re or 3vze that I have EVER owned (and thats a lot). My last 4runner got a 3.4 conversion with a few mods and the TDi feels even more powerful then that. It just has so much torque, it I can hold 1/8th throttle up hills going 80-100km/h at 2000rpm. Its awesome...although flooring it only really makes more noise

In your case your gonna have to cut off the mounts. Using the 5spd x-member will bring the TDI head too close to the firewall. Mine is moved up a few inches and its still fairly close.

On the topic of the adapter plate, I may as well post it here. I have had a few PM's regarding this now and I'd rather not share the files. Acme-adapters is around for these reasons I'd rather not cut short innovative companies like that.

I can say that I found all the dimensions I needed to draw one up on yotatech though
Research, Research, Research.