What did you do to your MKIV today?

pkhoury said:

Holy crap. Is that from just one day? Presuming it was clean before?

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Back when we lived in Saskatchewan, you could do that on a one-hour drive.

Not my Mk4s, but helping a couple people with their Jettas yesterday....both have a radiator fan not spinning and no A/C.

Ordered aux fan switch and relay for a friends 06 beetle TDI, got to check it tomorrow and see if he’s got a blown head gasket.... sounds like he does based on symptoms!


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So, gents, I have four new center caps, the 67mm (or so) kind for my Longbeaches.
I'm tired of buying them and then having them pop off, so...

Anybody know of a type of glue that would work to keep them from popping off? I don't think they ever need to come off again, but they will be under hot/cold stresses among others...

Thanks!

Jud.

Judson said:

Anybody know of a type of glue that would work to keep them from popping off? I don't think they ever need to come off again, but they will be under hot/cold stresses among others...

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I've just used some Goop brand epoxy adhesive (either Automotive or Marine - can't remember, but they seem about the same to me) on mine that were a bit loose. Lasted three winters including some drives in biblical-type west-coast rain.

Lol clear gorilla glue........

csstevej said:

Lol clear gorilla glue........

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Their SuperGlue GEL?

Yes that one.

Yesterday took off the '01's fancy wheels (for refurbishing this Summer)...

...and stuck on some craigslist Beetle wheels with Michelin CrossClimate+ tires!
(The CrossClimates were not from craigslist - brand new for my G!)
205-60-16 96V! and Made in Germany!

Well yesterday morning, I checked in on the bodyshop that’s doing a complete overhaul on my wagon.
Six weeks later things are looking awesome, all rust cut out, new metal in, dings remove. Hopefully I’ll be getting it back in couple more weeks. I really miss it .


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red16vdub said:

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Now that is love.

How much is that going to cost in the end?

Did they leave the interior in place?

Looks like my Golf when it was getting painted. Where did you take it?

benmarks said:

How much is that going to cost in the end?

Did they leave the interior in place?

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Yes the interior is in place, the car overall was very solid. Not naming names, but a couple shops used the incorrect part of the jack pinch welding points, which mostly destroyed the right side rocker panel. I had the shop reinforced the jacking points with extra steel for added security. Plus my rear hatch that the dealer replaced under warranty, is showing miner signs.


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STDOUBT said:

Now that is love.

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Well driving my a4 avant and fueling every 4-5 days sucks so, gotta get my daily back in shape. I gave my son the other diesel I had so can’t let this one go down hill Lol .


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IndigoBlueWagon said:

Looks like my Golf when it was getting painted. Where did you take it?

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Peter I was going to used the guy that did your red golf, but I decided to take it to a anal Volkswagen guy in Dartmouth.


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Great. Eager to see how it comes out.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Great. Eager to see how it comes out.

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When I get the wagon back I’ll let you know.


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IndigoBlueWagon said:

Great. Eager to see how it comes out.

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X2

I will be taking my MK IV sedan and MK IV wagon to Tijuana for paint. There are a few shops there that repair and repaint BMW and Porsche cars for a reasonable price. But I cant wait to see your car once it is finished.

Pulled the large fan, as it's motor had gone crunchy.
I thought I'd be installing a fan salvaged from a Volvo, but it turned out to have a slightly larger diameter motor can, which wouldn't fit in the VW motor support.

$50 later, I had a new radiator fan assembly from a car being parted in the local area.


Replaced the crank position sensor, MAF, and air filter, all chasing an erratic stumble/die issue that only showed up at idle, with the engine warm. No fault codes other than a pending code for the CPS. The MAF was tracking ~200mg/str below the calculated value, and was 4.5 years old, so it was replaced as a "maybe" culprit, but the new one still tracks ~100mg/str below the expected number.


I'm still not sure it's fixed, as the issue doesn't seem to crop up until I've driven for ~1 hour before it will happen.


Such fun...

On Saturday:
- Oil change
- Air Filter
- Clean snowscreen
- Clean driver's door "open/close" switch with contact cleaner (see tip about this by Wingnut in the "Stupid Door Switch!" thread), now the switch registers when I open the door again.
- Replaced the short hoses connecting the washer nozzles to the hardlines in the hood to restore washer jet pressure.
Doing the air filter required replacing the screws that hold the air box lid on, as on one the "slots" for the phillips screwdriver had degraded and stripped. Used some "pocket hole screws", just had to trim them down to match the length of the originals with a Dremel/cutoff wheel. Worked beautifully, and I have a whole box of the things if/when I need to make more some day.
On the washer jets, it seemed that the "sockets" on the hardlines in the hood had hardened/loosened over the years, and were leaking. My solution ended up being to replace the little short "flex hoses" between the hardlines and the washer jets:
- Insert 1/4 inline vac hose connector into hardline "socket" and secure with screw clamp
- Slide 7/32" vac hose onto other side of connector and secure with screw clamp
- Push hose onto barb on nozzle (no clamp here, the screw clamp wouldn't fit through the hole the nozzle mounts into, but it seems like a pretty snug fit. Now I think of it though, I do have a couple spare "pinch clamps" from a fuel filter in the toolbox, I wonder if those would be small enough for this hose and actually fit through hood opening. Have to check that next weekend...

Rob Mayercik said:

On the washer jets, it seemed that the "sockets" on the hardlines in the hood had hardened/loosened over the years, and were leaking. My solution ended up being to replace the little short "flex hoses" between the hardlines and the washer jets:

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I had the same leak(s) a few years back at those hard connections. Used some 3M Rubber Mastic Tape (Scotch 2228) around the joint, pressure returned, still good to this day!

romad said:

I sent a question to KaTur asking if there are built-in load resistors.

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I got mine in today, they work as expected, nothing weird yet.
Now running 100% LED bulbs in the tails without modification of harness or hazard switch

picked up a set of wheels and center caps to match the set I already have. Now I will be able to mount studded tires for winter driving on identical wheels and just swap them out myself instead of taking the Golf in and having the pinch weld bent even more.

Picked up a large radiator fan from Cascade German down the road a bit. My old one was no longer functioning and if it did start turning, the noises were not good. Will complete the install tomorrow.

Finally got my air bag light off, turned out to be the wire harness for the air bag, one wire had broken off at the terminal.
While I was in there I replaced my factory steering wheel ( which has seriously deteriorated by the sun ) with a new to me nice leather wheel. Nice not having a rough steering wheel again.

This morning I put the car up on ramps to get the skid plate off so I could complete the install of the large radiator fan. Had it done and back together before breakfast.

Fixed my passenger power seat switch. Bad/no solder joint

Drove it from eastern MA to Madison Wisconsin. 1,168 miles, 17.25 hours. Very few people on the road.

Had to add more coolant - the nastygram light came on. This happens about once a year maybe. There’s a very slow leak that isn’t easily found and all of the hoses and water pump and things have been changed.

I can drive with the warning light on for a long time and she still won’t overheat, so I don’t worry about it any more than making sure to fill her up the next chance I get.

This could easily be avoided if I checked more often. DOH!