P3105 code - Valve for intake Manifold Flap

Jetta2001

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Location
Carstairs Alberta Canada
TDI
2001 Jetta
This is just information.

After cleaning my inake manifold I kept getting the fault code:

19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground
P3105 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

After inspecting the harness that connects to the vacuum control for the anti-shutter valve, I found that the wires inside the protective split casing were indeed shorting. Most likey a result of moving the harness when cleaning the intake. The suprise was the root cause of the short. The split protective casing, through vibration, had worn ridges through the wire insulator and exposed the bare wires and "intermittently shorted" the connection.

I suggest that everyone inspect their harness as a preventative maintenance measure.
 

jollyGreenGiant

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2003
Location
MA
TDI
03 Golf TDI GLS ( my 5th TDI ), 03 Eurovan GLS - VR6 :(
Well,

I'm working on a car ( 200 Golf 125K miles ) now that originally came in for a leaking IP and a CEL, had a fuel temp sensor code ( 16566 / Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low ) the fuel temp sensor is reading -5.4C so that's an open circuit and will get replaced with new pump seals but I also had a N239 ( 01282 / Change-over valve for Intake manifold flap -N239- /Open circuit/short to ground ) code...

I measured the resistance of the N239 valve, right on... Then measured voltage at idle across the connector pins ( it should be reference voltage ~5V ), it woud vary all over the place...

Hmmm, pulled back the "protective" casing and sure enough almost the entire length of the run from the harness split the wire insulation was worn thin and at two places, the wire had come through and was beginning to completely disintegrate and was shorting against each other.

Based on my observations, this will be a point at which I'll check for all future ALH engines, the protective casing should be removed and the wire should be wrapped with fuel/vacuum line or electrical tape and my suggestion would be to toss the corrugated casing aside as it has no use in a high vibration environment.

This picture really doesn't do the damage justice, each little band of discoloration on the wire is actually an area where the wire insulation is extremely thin. There are two major breaks where the wire itself has started to disintegrate.

 
Last edited:

cerickson

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
Location
Teton Valley, Idaho, Wyoming
TDI
2002 Golf, Silver
JGG, thanks a ton for posting that photo! You could have snapped a completely identical pic in my engine compartment, right down to the "vibration serrations".

It's what I love about TDI club. We're all in the same boat and somebody has seen it all before.

This error code only shows on vag-com and doesn't seem to turn on mil/cel. Now my car's clean again with no codes, thanks!!

Chris E.:)
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
cerickson said:
This error code only shows on vag-com and doesn't seem to turn on mil/cel.
I wonder if this is because a problem with the anti shudder valve is not an emissions problem? It is my understanding that only emisions related problems show a code.
 

jollyGreenGiant

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2003
Location
MA
TDI
03 Golf TDI GLS ( my 5th TDI ), 03 Eurovan GLS - VR6 :(
I've worked on three cars since then that have had nearly identical issues with these wires, it seems to be an epidemic! I would highly recommend to anyone with an ALH engine to pull these wires out of the harness and wrap them in electrical tape and then stuff them back in to prevent the insulation from failing.
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
Thanks for the reminder. i was going to do this this morning after I first read this, but forgot. I'll do that right now.
 

makos101

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Location
PA
TDI
A4 ALH Black 2003 Jetta
I know this is an old thread. I just threw the same code and sure enough the wires were bad. I wrapped them in electrical tape but im still having the code. Any tips?
 

makos101

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Location
PA
TDI
A4 ALH Black 2003 Jetta
Had to cut and run new wire on the littlest wire thanks guys!
 

Rembrant

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
TDI
2013 Golf TDI DSG
Had to cut and run new wire on the littlest wire thanks guys!
Both my 03 Jetta and my current 03 Golf came with this code, and I had to replace those wires on both cars. The wires rub on the inside of the loom and the insulation wears right off to the bare wire inside. The wiring was identical on both cars.

Glad you got it sorted out.
 

joncfinney

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Location
CHICO, CA
TDI
2003 Jetta Tdi alh
Well,

I'm working on a car ( 200 Golf 125K miles ) now that originally came in for a leaking IP and a CEL, had a fuel temp sensor code ( 16566 / Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low ) the fuel temp sensor is reading -5.4C so that's an open circuit and will get replaced with new pump seals but I also had a N239 ( 01282 / Change-over valve for Intake manifold flap -N239- /Open circuit/short to ground ) code...

I measured the resistance of the N239 valve, right on... Then measured voltage at idle across the connector pins ( it should be reference voltage ~5V ), it woud vary all over the place...

Hmmm, pulled back the "protective" casing and sure enough almost the entire length of the run from the harness split the wire insulation was worn thin and at two places, the wire had come through and was beginning to completely disintegrate and was shorting against each other.

Based on my observations, this will be a point at which I'll check for all future ALH engines, the protective casing should be removed and the wire should be wrapped with fuel/vacuum line or electrical tape and my suggestion would be to toss the corrugated casing aside as it has no use in a high vibration environment.

This picture really doesn't do the damage justice, each little band of discoloration on the wire is actually an area where the wire insulation is extremely thin. There are two major breaks where the wire itself has started to disintegrate.

Hi I just cleaned my intake and must have moved a wire to much and frayed it or something, but got the same code. P3105: open circuit/ short circuit to ground.

I see the pic above but cant seem to find that wire everyone is talking about. Is it the one right behind the intake attached to a bracket or somewhere else. (or is this pic just the wire and plug unhooked?)
 

joncfinney

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Location
CHICO, CA
TDI
2003 Jetta Tdi alh
Yes. Have a look inside the wire loom to see if there is any chafing or breaks in the wire(s).

any tips for changing the wire? I have never done anything electrical.

disconnect battery?
What type of wire do i replace it with?
 

Rembrant

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
TDI
2013 Golf TDI DSG
any tips for changing the wire? I have never done anything electrical.

disconnect battery?
What type of wire do i replace it with?
Did you find damaged wires?

I can't really give you much in the way of tips...I think I soldered new wires in on mine, covered with heat-shrink, and then new wire loom. It's been a couple years now, so I can't remember, but they're fairly small wires...18 or 20 gauge I suppose. I have about 6 different wire sizes on hand, and I can't recall exactly which one I used.
 

joncfinney

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Location
CHICO, CA
TDI
2003 Jetta Tdi alh
yep definitely some fraying uner the covering. I think I will just cut that piee off and splice in a 16 or 18 gauge wire.




Did you find damaged wires?

I can't really give you much in the way of tips...I think I soldered new wires in on mine, covered with heat-shrink, and then new wire loom. It's been a couple years now, so I can't remember, but they're fairly small wires...18 or 20 gauge I suppose. I have about 6 different wire sizes on hand, and I can't recall exactly which one I used.
 
Last edited:

joncfinney

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Location
CHICO, CA
TDI
2003 Jetta Tdi alh
i think i want to temporarily just splice in a new piece where it is frayed. Eventually want to replace the whole wire from connector to connector. Does anyone have any idea on how to replace that whole wire. Like

What tools i need to get the wires out of the connector piece and what the d shape connection is called so i can order a new one.
 

bulldogger1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2006
Location
Arlington, TX
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI 5 spd, 2014 Golf TDI auto
If this the wire damage is left unattended long enough, is the a scenario that would cause the car to shut down? My car died 3 times on the way home yesterday and this is the only code the car recorded.

Each time the car died (once under throttle, and twice while pushing in the clutch and coming to a stop) the only warning light that came on was the red oil light.

Any advice on where to begin would be most helpful.

Thanks.
 

branforddiesel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2016
Location
CT
TDI
2001 '01 golf TDI 4dr 5speed
I have this code too, but don't see the wire......egr was deleted, could that be why there's no wire and this will always be an open code
 

svb4eva

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Location
PA
TDI
2002 Jetta
Thanks to the people that contributed to this old thread. I was able to find the wires and sure enough, they were frayed. Did some splicing and soldering, no more fault codes!
 
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