Lurker92
Veteran Member
Anecdotally cops here are saying well lit areas are worse, the thieves can see what they are doing better...
But if you're really concerned the switch on the 109 is probably the most effective and convenient mod.
Best antitheft routine?
- Thread starter Dhawk12
- Start date
Anecdotally cops here are saying well lit areas are worse, the thieves can see what they are doing better...
But if you're really concerned the switch on the 109 is probably the most effective and convenient mod.
Dhawk12
Veteran Member
Yeah I think I am just going to put the switch in for peace of mind.
Anybody have any suggestion on which wire to put it on? Constant power, switched power, or the ground? Or does it matter? I don't want to add a switch into a circuit the gets hot because it isn't beefy enough.
Lurker92
Veteran Member
I'm not familiar with the internals of the 109 (I'll have to open one up some day) but I would just put a spst switch on the ground as that would guarantee no current through the relay.
Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
Former acquaintance of mine lives in a similar area where break-ins and such are a regular and tolerated occurrence.
He keeps the interior of the car empty, nothing in sight, nothing in the glovebox, etc and leaves the doors unlocked. A couple times a month, he comes out to his car with a door open and/or glovebox open, etc, but never stolen, no windows broken, etc. Just an unspoken agreement between him and the thieves - go ahead and look through it, nothing here that you want, just don't break the window.
He's done this with two minivans and a brand new toyota corolla.
20 years ago, I was driving an 81 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 5.7 Diesel - popular car with certain crowds. Was broken into a couple times (very easy to do with no upper door frame, just pull the window back, reach in and unlock it) but it had glow plugs on a button since the automatic coolant temp sensing timer relay was broken. You could crank that thing over until the battery was dead and it wouldn't start, even on a 100F day without glow plugs (or a shot of ether
). Thieves pealed the steering column, broke the lock cylinder, etc, but never actually took the car. Can't do this on an ALH (they start just fine without glow plugs most of the time), but it reminded me of the story
He keeps the interior of the car empty, nothing in sight, nothing in the glovebox, etc and leaves the doors unlocked. A couple times a month, he comes out to his car with a door open and/or glovebox open, etc, but never stolen, no windows broken, etc. Just an unspoken agreement between him and the thieves - go ahead and look through it, nothing here that you want, just don't break the window.
He's done this with two minivans and a brand new toyota corolla.
20 years ago, I was driving an 81 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 5.7 Diesel - popular car with certain crowds. Was broken into a couple times (very easy to do with no upper door frame, just pull the window back, reach in and unlock it) but it had glow plugs on a button since the automatic coolant temp sensing timer relay was broken. You could crank that thing over until the battery was dead and it wouldn't start, even on a 100F day without glow plugs (or a shot of ether
). Thieves pealed the steering column, broke the lock cylinder, etc, but never actually took the car. Can't do this on an ALH (they start just fine without glow plugs most of the time), but it reminded me of the story ToxicDoc
Veteran Member
I lived in a*very* rough part of Brooklyn 25 years ago. If you had your doors locked, all that did was get a window broken so they could rummage around. After the second window break, I learned (as did everyone else) to keep the doors unlocked and nothing in the car. Just like you described, the guys look around. Nothing to steal? They move on to the next car.
Dhawk12
Veteran Member
Ya I understand the importance of reducing the target of the car by having nothing in it, etc. However, I like my sub too much to pull it out of the trunk and then leave the doors unlocked
I am going to put a switch on the 109 relay, as per the above suggestion for peace of mind.
What I am not entirely sure of is which wire to put the switch on. Someone suggested the main power wire, but I am concerned of introducing a potential weak spot/place for an electrical fire that would cause issues such as the car shutting down while driving due to failure of the switch on the circuit because of the amount of current passing through the power wires. That is why I am leaning towards putting the switch on the ground wire to the ECU which controls the relay as it is a much thinner gauge wire and I think its only function is the initial opening/closing of the relay. At least that is what I gathered from this post in another thread:
From http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=392625
I am going to put a switch on the 109 relay, as per the above suggestion for peace of mind.
What I am not entirely sure of is which wire to put the switch on. Someone suggested the main power wire, but I am concerned of introducing a potential weak spot/place for an electrical fire that would cause issues such as the car shutting down while driving due to failure of the switch on the circuit because of the amount of current passing through the power wires. That is why I am leaning towards putting the switch on the ground wire to the ECU which controls the relay as it is a much thinner gauge wire and I think its only function is the initial opening/closing of the relay. At least that is what I gathered from this post in another thread:
Got you covered Jeff.
OK, your 109 Relay (J317) has 3 wires going to it:
Big ole red guy (constant power)
Big old blue guy (switched power...output from the relay)
Small blue/yellow guy (switch ground from ECU)
The way the system works is the ignition switch sends a 12v signal to the ecu to wake up. This is done via black/violet wire that runs through fuse 29. When the ecu receives this signal is sends a ground signal (small blue/yellow guy) to the J317 which closes the relay and sends the current on through to the big ole blue guy.
From http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=392625
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Seems like a plan.
You can leave the doors unlocked and lockout the trunk with a key.
You can leave the doors unlocked and lockout the trunk with a key.
Dhawk12
Veteran Member
Ha, unfortunately it's a golf, so "locking the trunk" isn't really an option.
TornadoRed
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2003
- Location
- West Des Moines (formerly St Paul)
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (PARTED); 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD)
Theft deterrents on my work Golf (Red):
1) 15-years-old
2) 700k+ miles
3) Good but not expensive wheels and tires
4) Manual transmission
5) No front passenger seat
6) All the usual immobilizer settings
7) Doors locked with valet key when the engine is left running
1) 15-years-old
2) 700k+ miles
3) Good but not expensive wheels and tires
4) Manual transmission
5) No front passenger seat
6) All the usual immobilizer settings
7) Doors locked with valet key when the engine is left running
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Interesting thread!
Not two weeks ago I started to wonder how safe my car is from theft since she has to sleep outside now that my GF's '01 gets the garage..
I don't worry about anyone cloning my remote signal since I always lock/unlock manually (sidebar: a shop that used to be on the trusted mechanic's list once told me not to do that since "they're not made for constant use" --after 12 years, I'm not concerned).
My best, most devious thought as to how to swipe a MK4 would be to duck under the bumper, cut the alarm horn wire(s), bust the window, release the brake, pull it onto a flatbed...
An ignition cutout switch won't help that.
Not worried about an immo hack in the wild, but once the car is in the thief's shed, it's over.
All that said, I fall into the camp that thinks MK4 thefts especially manuals, must be pretty rare. And I refuse to believe there's a chop shop market for these lol.
Car break-ins in my neighborhood have become pretty common, they kind of come in waves it seems. I've only been parking in the elements since August.
As for straight break-ins, so far, that beautiful little red flasher on the driver's door has some special magic...I hope it lasts!
Not two weeks ago I started to wonder how safe my car is from theft since she has to sleep outside now that my GF's '01 gets the garage..
I don't worry about anyone cloning my remote signal since I always lock/unlock manually (sidebar: a shop that used to be on the trusted mechanic's list once told me not to do that since "they're not made for constant use" --after 12 years, I'm not concerned).
My best, most devious thought as to how to swipe a MK4 would be to duck under the bumper, cut the alarm horn wire(s), bust the window, release the brake, pull it onto a flatbed...
An ignition cutout switch won't help that.
Not worried about an immo hack in the wild, but once the car is in the thief's shed, it's over.
All that said, I fall into the camp that thinks MK4 thefts especially manuals, must be pretty rare. And I refuse to believe there's a chop shop market for these lol.
Car break-ins in my neighborhood have become pretty common, they kind of come in waves it seems. I've only been parking in the elements since August.
As for straight break-ins, so far, that beautiful little red flasher on the driver's door has some special magic...I hope it lasts!
Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
I'm not all that far from you in Beaverton, and about the most we get is teenagers just testing to see if doors are locked. PDX can be pretty scetchy in certain areas though!Interesting thread!
Not two weeks ago I started to wonder how safe my car is from theft since she has to sleep outside now that my GF's '01 gets the garage..
I don't worry about anyone cloning my remote signal since I always lock/unlock manually (sidebar: a shop that used to be on the trusted mechanic's list once told me not to do that since "they're not made for constant use" --after 12 years, I'm not concerned).
My best, most devious thought as to how to swipe a MK4 would be to duck under the bumper, cut the alarm horn wire(s), bust the window, release the brake, pull it onto a flatbed...
An ignition cutout switch won't help that.
Not worried about an immo hack in the wild, but once the car is in the thief's shed, it's over.
All that said, I fall into the camp that thinks MK4 thefts especially manuals, must be pretty rare. And I refuse to believe there's a chop shop market for these lol.
Car break-ins in my neighborhood have become pretty common, they kind of come in waves it seems. I've only been parking in the elements since August.
As for straight break-ins, so far, that beautiful little red flasher on the driver's door has some special magic...I hope it lasts!
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Yes, and it doesn't help that our fabulous city government treats auto theft as a misdemeanor. Not joking. You can't get locked up for stealing a car in Portland Oregon. Counting the days I'm outta here. Beaverton I know has a very vigilant Police force. I used to work at Wa. Co. Jail, and we got more traffic from Beaverton cops than anywhere in the rest of the county.
Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
They're definitely very vigilant! They setup a ton of speed traps too. You trying to leave the city or the whole state?
wonneber
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Location
- Monroe, NY, USA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I believe the alarm horn is under the cowl.
Does not use the 2 front horns.
Maybe you could find the ground for it somewhere in the left rear of the engine compartment.
dogdots
Vendor
Back in the 80's I had my 66 Mustang 289 4 speed parked behind my 86 Mercury Capri RS. Thieves hot wired my Mustang to move it to the street so they could steal my Capri. Cops found the Capri a few days later, when I got it back it had a busted rear quarter window, busted lock cylinder, the map light was used to rip the headliner, and the back tires were bald. Just enough damage that it wasn't worth turning into insuranceFormer acquaintance of mine lives in a similar area where break-ins and such are a regular and tolerated occurrence.
He keeps the interior of the car empty, nothing in sight, nothing in the glovebox, etc and leaves the doors unlocked. A couple times a month, he comes out to his car with a door open and/or glovebox open, etc, but never stolen, no windows broken, etc. Just an unspoken agreement between him and the thieves - go ahead and look through it, nothing here that you want, just don't break the window.
He's done this with two minivans and a brand new toyota corolla.
20 years ago, I was driving an 81 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 5.7 Diesel - popular car with certain crowds. Was broken into a couple times (very easy to do with no upper door frame, just pull the window back, reach in and unlock it) but it had glow plugs on a button since the automatic coolant temp sensing timer relay was broken. You could crank that thing over until the battery was dead and it wouldn't start, even on a 100F day without glow plugs (or a shot of ether
red16vdub
Veteran Member
Best idea yet, plus you’re right, if they really want it they’ll just tow it away.
Bajan
I favor bypassing the clutch interlock with a momentary switch, Had it stock on my old Pathfinder, simple, not much power passing through the switch. Even with the Key, you can't start it. Now they could always bump start it...
mjydrafter
Veteran Member
I had a reed switch and magnet hidden in an old Jeep. It was fun to install, and kind of cool, but I never used it.
You can glue the reed switch anywhere behind a plastic panel and only you will ever know where it is.
Oddly, I think this may be the best work around for flakey door latches.
You can glue the reed switch anywhere behind a plastic panel and only you will ever know where it is.
Oddly, I think this may be the best work around for flakey door latches.
Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
I've seen those installed in a few RVs, super annoying when the owner doesn't tell you where the reed is lol