TonyJetta
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Location
- Tucson, Az
- TDI
- '15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
Use at your own risk…I have no idea of your mechanical ability or inability.
This procedure involves working with diesel fuel and fuel lines. If you are unsure about ANY of these instructions, or the inherent safety risks or concerns, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
I can’t say it enough: If you are unsure about ANY of these instructions, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
I am only sharing my experience and trying to help others. I installed this mod 2 years ago, when I bought the car and found the OEM lines to be colored brown as mud. I had read some posts about using motorcycle fuel line and others about using Oetiker clamps. I simply put all that together.
Tools:
1)Utility knife or diagonal cutters
2)Slip Joint Pliers or Needle nose pliers
3)Hose clamp Pinch Pliers (McMaster PN 6541K67)
4)Mity-vac, and associated tools, if replacing the fuel filter
Materials:
1)Fuel line; Obtain from a local off-road type motorcycle shop – they stock several sizes and colors.
a.5/16” ID Clear motorcycle fuel line for the IP supply
b.¼” ID Clear motorcycle fuel line for the IP return
2)Oetiker Gap-Free Clamps
a.13.5mm (McMaster PN 52545K51 PK/25)
b.10mm (McMaster PN 52545K27 PK/25)
3)Siamese Hose Clips
a.McMaster PN 7429K44 PK/10
Procedure
1)If you have the OEM spring clips, use pliers to remove the old hose clamps from the injection pump and fuel filter
2)If you have the worm gear clamps, use a screwdriver to remove the old hose clamps from the injection pump and fuel filter
a.Photo coutesy of Jetter Sprinta
3)Remove OEM fuel lines from the filter and injection pump
4)Cut new fuel lines to a comfortable length. Note that the supply and return lines will be different lengths.
a.¼” diameter line for return;
b.5/16” diameter for supply
c. Ignore the CTS references...I was lazy and used an old pic.
5)Place a 13.5mm clamp onto each end of the 5/16” hose; do not crimp
6)Place a 10mm clamp onto each end of the 1/4” hose; do not crimp
7)Install the new 5/16” hose onto large fittings on the IP and fuel filter.
a.The fuel line and crimp clamp must be beyond the barb, as shown.
8)Install the new 1/4” hose onto small fittings on the IP and fuel filter
a.The fuel line and crimp clamp must be beyond the barb, as shown above.
9)If you are replacing the fuel filter, do so at this point.
a.Once the filter is replaced, crimp hose clamps, just behind barb, as shown. There should be a small gap as shown above.
b.Fill the filter with power service (white bottle for winter / gray for summer) to prime the filter through the opening of the thermostatic T
c.If necessary, remove the return line from the filter to the tank.
i.Connect the mity vac and separation cup to the fuel filter return to the tank.
ii.Vacuum fuel through the filter & IP until there is a steady flow of fuel into the clear fuel lines, and into the separation cup.
10)If the fuel filter was not replaced, crimp the fuel lines on the fuel filter and IP.
11)Install the Siamese hose clips. I’ve found that 3 are all that’s needed.
12)Start engine. Inspect all connections for leaks; check clear lines for bubbles. Correct all leaks.
a.Note that you may have a moderate amount of bubbles in the supply and return lines until the engine runs for a few minutes and any air in the system is purged.
b.If the engine stalls, check clear lines for large amounts of air.
i.[FONT="] If the engine won't restart, [/FONT]return to step 9C and use a mity vac to re-prime the fuel filter and IP. Also, you may need to loosen the injector nuts to bleed off the accumulated air. If needed, wrap a rag around the loosened nut(s) to capture squirting fuel. Crank the engine until the rag(s) are slightly damp with fuel. Tighten injector nuts. Try starting the car.
Cost
1.OEM fuel line: ~$120
2.Total cost for 1st aftermarket clear fuel line: ~$60
3.Cost of replacing the fuel filter: $1.36 + cost of fuel filter
4.Cost of replacing the fuel lines, next time: $20
FYI’s:
1.Again, this is for experienced DIY or mechanical people. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE MECHANICAL ABILITY DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
2.If you see a fuel leak, fix it immediately
3.Depending on how you route your fuel lines, you may need to replace them more frequently.
4.If you see air bubbles in the return line with the engine off, wiggle the thermostatic T a little and the clear lines on the T; if you see more bubbles, the T or the associated O-ring likely needs to be replaced, or the pinch clamps may need to be tightened or replaced.
5.If you see bubbles in the large fuel line, try wiggling the either end of the fuel line. If bubbles appear, the pinch clamp may need to be tightened a little or replaced.
6.Make sure you order the gap-free clamps. Non-gap-free clamps are cheaper, but won’t seal at the pinch and you will still get a LOT of air bubbles. Do you really need to ask me how I know?!
This procedure involves working with diesel fuel and fuel lines. If you are unsure about ANY of these instructions, or the inherent safety risks or concerns, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
I can’t say it enough: If you are unsure about ANY of these instructions, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
I am only sharing my experience and trying to help others. I installed this mod 2 years ago, when I bought the car and found the OEM lines to be colored brown as mud. I had read some posts about using motorcycle fuel line and others about using Oetiker clamps. I simply put all that together.
Tools:
1)Utility knife or diagonal cutters
2)Slip Joint Pliers or Needle nose pliers
3)Hose clamp Pinch Pliers (McMaster PN 6541K67)
4)Mity-vac, and associated tools, if replacing the fuel filter
Materials:
1)Fuel line; Obtain from a local off-road type motorcycle shop – they stock several sizes and colors.
a.5/16” ID Clear motorcycle fuel line for the IP supply
b.¼” ID Clear motorcycle fuel line for the IP return
2)Oetiker Gap-Free Clamps
a.13.5mm (McMaster PN 52545K51 PK/25)
b.10mm (McMaster PN 52545K27 PK/25)
3)Siamese Hose Clips
a.McMaster PN 7429K44 PK/10
Procedure
1)If you have the OEM spring clips, use pliers to remove the old hose clamps from the injection pump and fuel filter
2)If you have the worm gear clamps, use a screwdriver to remove the old hose clamps from the injection pump and fuel filter
a.Photo coutesy of Jetter Sprinta
3)Remove OEM fuel lines from the filter and injection pump
4)Cut new fuel lines to a comfortable length. Note that the supply and return lines will be different lengths.
a.¼” diameter line for return;
b.5/16” diameter for supply
c. Ignore the CTS references...I was lazy and used an old pic.
5)Place a 13.5mm clamp onto each end of the 5/16” hose; do not crimp
6)Place a 10mm clamp onto each end of the 1/4” hose; do not crimp
7)Install the new 5/16” hose onto large fittings on the IP and fuel filter.
a.The fuel line and crimp clamp must be beyond the barb, as shown.
8)Install the new 1/4” hose onto small fittings on the IP and fuel filter
a.The fuel line and crimp clamp must be beyond the barb, as shown above.
9)If you are replacing the fuel filter, do so at this point.
a.Once the filter is replaced, crimp hose clamps, just behind barb, as shown. There should be a small gap as shown above.
b.Fill the filter with power service (white bottle for winter / gray for summer) to prime the filter through the opening of the thermostatic T
c.If necessary, remove the return line from the filter to the tank.
i.Connect the mity vac and separation cup to the fuel filter return to the tank.
ii.Vacuum fuel through the filter & IP until there is a steady flow of fuel into the clear fuel lines, and into the separation cup.
10)If the fuel filter was not replaced, crimp the fuel lines on the fuel filter and IP.
11)Install the Siamese hose clips. I’ve found that 3 are all that’s needed.
12)Start engine. Inspect all connections for leaks; check clear lines for bubbles. Correct all leaks.
a.Note that you may have a moderate amount of bubbles in the supply and return lines until the engine runs for a few minutes and any air in the system is purged.
b.If the engine stalls, check clear lines for large amounts of air.
i.[FONT="] If the engine won't restart, [/FONT]return to step 9C and use a mity vac to re-prime the fuel filter and IP. Also, you may need to loosen the injector nuts to bleed off the accumulated air. If needed, wrap a rag around the loosened nut(s) to capture squirting fuel. Crank the engine until the rag(s) are slightly damp with fuel. Tighten injector nuts. Try starting the car.
Cost
1.OEM fuel line: ~$120
2.Total cost for 1st aftermarket clear fuel line: ~$60
3.Cost of replacing the fuel filter: $1.36 + cost of fuel filter
4.Cost of replacing the fuel lines, next time: $20
FYI’s:
1.Again, this is for experienced DIY or mechanical people. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE MECHANICAL ABILITY DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION.
2.If you see a fuel leak, fix it immediately
3.Depending on how you route your fuel lines, you may need to replace them more frequently.
4.If you see air bubbles in the return line with the engine off, wiggle the thermostatic T a little and the clear lines on the T; if you see more bubbles, the T or the associated O-ring likely needs to be replaced, or the pinch clamps may need to be tightened or replaced.
5.If you see bubbles in the large fuel line, try wiggling the either end of the fuel line. If bubbles appear, the pinch clamp may need to be tightened a little or replaced.
6.Make sure you order the gap-free clamps. Non-gap-free clamps are cheaper, but won’t seal at the pinch and you will still get a LOT of air bubbles. Do you really need to ask me how I know?!
