this is laughable statement.
Most domestic and Japanese cars around here in VT start to rust at 5-7 years and are gone by 10-15. I see pickups that rust in the fender wells after 2 or 3 years.
Rust prevention
- Thread starter panteramatt
- Start date
Most domestic and Japanese cars around here in VT start to rust at 5-7 years and are gone by 10-15. I see pickups that rust in the fender wells after 2 or 3 years.
rwolff
Veteran Member
The trouble with stuff like that is that it's great so long as the coating is intact, but one scratch through to metal and the salt water will get in and start rusting UNDER the coating. The oil-type rustproofing wears off and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis, but during its lifetime it "heals" itself.
Dimitri16V
Top Post Dawg
The undercoating VW has been using is soft and will take certain abuse before it exposes the metal .
My 2014 Civic was very well rust proofed , I was impressed it was better than my VWs
red16vdub
Veteran Member
I've never seen a Honda/Acura of any kind hold up to the elements better than VW's. To be fair, hopefully you're comparing vehicles of the same year. Mk3 generation is the only VW's that were sold with serious rust proofing issues...
The permanent stuff isnt creeping and flexible. If rust gets under rubber it does nothing but hide the expanding problem.
However, here is what i did. Locally there is a place that will sandblast all visible rust off the underside of your car, then apply a thick gooey coat of rubberized undercoating (1/2inch in most places) or POR similar paint per your choice.
I have had excellent results from rustcheck and fluid film, but my old cars a lot of damage has already been done.
What i did on an old work van was have it sand blasted, heavy undercoat, then once that cured, sprayed the van with the flexible rust preventative stuff.
It was great, looked new underneath and was a giant creeping mass of stickiness. Unfortunately i sold that van because its weight rating was too low. If i do it again im going with paint instead of the undercoating. That way you can see developing problems vs hidden and you think its fine
panteramatt
Veteran Member
Man this has been an eye opener. Have any yall seen or used chassis saver. Ive used it on frames so Im not sure if its worth using on a golf but I will tell you that stuff is serious! It hardens stronger than powdercoat.
Does it react to sunlight the way POR does?
panteramatt
Veteran Member
Nope.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Agreed. Except there were other (older) Volkswagens sold here that had some rust problems, but they were really no worse than anything else of the day, and probably better than anything Japanese... and before that there were no Japanese cars sold here anyway.
My parent's bought a new Accord in late '76 (it was a '77 model). It was rusted through by 1980, and in '81 they traded it for a rust-free 1975 Volkswagen Bus, that was still on the road in 1994 when I finally retired it. It was pretty rusty by then, but I'm sure the Honda would have been in a dust pan by then, LOL. Seriously, the mounting points for the front control arms on that car were ready to cave in after only three years. It was crazy bad. That car HAD to have started to rust on the boat ride over here.
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
After this thread I bought 3 cans of Fluid Film (ebay, $8 per can, plus the 360* wand), and had the Golf up on the lift a couple of days ago. I removed a few of the underbody plugs along the outermost edges and sprayed up into the body cavity, and did the same in the center of the car. I didn't have time to remove the wheel well liners and hit those areas, but I intend to.
Q's:
How else (and where else) should I apply the Fluid Film?
I used only about 3/4 of a can, and previously read that a car would require apx 2 cans. Anyone else have an idea of how much they used?
The inside of the car smells like Fluid Film. It's not terrible, but the sig other does not approve. Will it persist, or will it fade?
I have replacement underbody plugs (from ID Parts and others) for the Mk IV oval and small, thin round type, (30MM?) but there are quite a few plugs that need to be replaced which don't match these. Does anyone have a source, or p/n - sizes?
TIA!
Q's:
How else (and where else) should I apply the Fluid Film?
I used only about 3/4 of a can, and previously read that a car would require apx 2 cans. Anyone else have an idea of how much they used?
The inside of the car smells like Fluid Film. It's not terrible, but the sig other does not approve. Will it persist, or will it fade?
I have replacement underbody plugs (from ID Parts and others) for the Mk IV oval and small, thin round type, (30MM?) but there are quite a few plugs that need to be replaced which don't match these. Does anyone have a source, or p/n - sizes?
TIA!
OlyTDI
Veteran Member
Smell (which isn't at all offensive to most) will fade quite quickly -- matter of days to a week or so.
I buy it in gallons as I do both my Golf and a '91 Trooper each fall (getting ready to do it soon). I use about 2/3 gallon each on the Golf and Trooper. I use the application wand when needed connected to my compressor and completely do the entire under carriage and every nook and cranny I can find/access/imagine.d The spray kit is the way to go.
I've been using FluidFilm for a number of years now and it is the real deal. Keep that ride rust free!
Here's what I just got in the email:
10% off every order, free shipping, and a free Fluid Film Keychain
Enter promo code "fall2016" at checkout.
Click here to order now.
* Minimum order for coupon is $49.50
* Good through 9/25/2016
* Free shipping to lower 48 states.
* Kellsport Products 888-341-4600
I buy it in gallons as I do both my Golf and a '91 Trooper each fall (getting ready to do it soon). I use about 2/3 gallon each on the Golf and Trooper. I use the application wand when needed connected to my compressor and completely do the entire under carriage and every nook and cranny I can find/access/imagine.d The spray kit is the way to go.
I've been using FluidFilm for a number of years now and it is the real deal. Keep that ride rust free!
Here's what I just got in the email:
10% off every order, free shipping, and a free Fluid Film Keychain
Enter promo code "fall2016" at checkout.
Click here to order now.
* Minimum order for coupon is $49.50
* Good through 9/25/2016
* Free shipping to lower 48 states.
* Kellsport Products 888-341-4600
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
Thanks for the info Oly. As I said, I only used 3/4 of a can, using the 360* spray extension, but that was putting the FF into the body. If I spray under the wheel well liners, I'm sure I'll use more. I considered spraying all of the under carriage, but was worried about getting it too close to heat sources.
JettaTDlie
Well-known member
Speaking from the rust belt. Annual or semi-annual Krown/OilGuard application ($100-$120). Then get yourself 2-3 cans of fluid film, oilguard - insert product of choice - and apply it to the known problem areas mentioned, the bottom of the A pillars behind the front wheel liners in particular. I've also sprayed it into the bottom of the hatch, doors etc as best I could.
Before any of this, when I first picked up my MK4 I pulled the wheel liners, wire brushed the surface rust in the A pillar traps, and gave them along with the inside of the bottom of the fenders themselves, a coat of rust check primer and 2 coats of rocker guard rubberized paint.
Before any of this, when I first picked up my MK4 I pulled the wheel liners, wire brushed the surface rust in the A pillar traps, and gave them along with the inside of the bottom of the fenders themselves, a coat of rust check primer and 2 coats of rocker guard rubberized paint.
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greenskeeper
Top Post Dawg
fluid film or Pblaster corrosion stop, can't go wrong with either on an annual application.
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
How far away from the hot spots do I have to stay (with the Fluid Film)?
Bought a gallon of fluid film, haven't use it yet. Been sitting around for years. My 96 F-150 is still in good shape, just normal rust on the frame and oil pan. Will need the fluid film when it goes to the rust belt. As for the jetta, no rust.
Research a product called Fluid Film and the gun with the nozzles that spray inside body panels, made from sheep wool,JMO but it seems to be good stuff, haven't used long enough to prove on auto's but does a great job on farm equipment.
http://www.fluid-film.com/products/
http://www.fluid-film.com/products/
crawdaddy
Veteran Member
Was this Fluid Film or Kellsport Products?
I tried the promo code on Kellsport and it didn't work.
4 days to go until promo ends.
I signed up on Kellsport for deals and news 4 days ago.
I'm pretty liberal with the fluid film, and dont pay too much mind. I cover up the brakes well and if a little gets on the exhaust it will burn off. Its not really even flammable, and definitely cannot ignite from just being warm on the exhaust.
Be aware that fluid film does wash off in areas where there is a lot of spray. I think it is most helpful to get it in behind all the fender liners, and into the hidden unibody cavities via the flexible wands. This way it can work its way into the pinch welds. This is where the stuff really works well, I find that by the end of the winter, the fluid film is washed off anywhere that gets sprayed with road crap.
I use the gun with wands from Kellsport. It would cost me a fortune to do it all with cans. I buy it by the gallon, and use between 1 and 2 gallons per car. Its about $50 gal here, $145 for 5 gal pail.
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hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
vt- Thanks for the input. So far I only used the 360* wand to spray where I removed body plugs (which did seem to coat all the unexposed underbody areas). I'm gonna remove the wheel well liners and spray there, and then do a general undercoat.
OlyTDI
Veteran Member
Sent you info via email, crawaddy.
POWERSTROKE
Top Post Dawg
I clean mine 2x a year and still have the beginnings of rust at that thin fender lip and the to of the rocker. Its a real crap design.
I looked into fluid film prior, but was concerned that it did not last as long. What I really liked is Cosmoline. This is the OEM coating they sprayed in the nooks and crannies and back in the day, on the exterior as a shield for the boat ride over.
I have fond memories of performing PDIs on the new Audi's where the porter would wash the Cosmoline off the exterior and we would have to drive for 30 minutes or so to cook off the cosmoline off the exhaust so the new customers wouldnt complain of the smell. Hands down, one of the best and long lasting corrosion preventative.
Another method that friends have used is Chainsaw bar oil. It sticks well and its cheap. It out lasts fluid film as well. Some have even heated up the oil and melted in some paraffin(Google it). It can be blown on using a cheap sprayer.
P.S. here is a link for the Type 2 folks who used it
http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm
I have fond memories of performing PDIs on the new Audi's where the porter would wash the Cosmoline off the exterior and we would have to drive for 30 minutes or so to cook off the cosmoline off the exhaust so the new customers wouldnt complain of the smell. Hands down, one of the best and long lasting corrosion preventative.
Another method that friends have used is Chainsaw bar oil. It sticks well and its cheap. It out lasts fluid film as well. Some have even heated up the oil and melted in some paraffin(Google it). It can be blown on using a cheap sprayer.
P.S. here is a link for the Type 2 folks who used it
http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm
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greenskeeper
Top Post Dawg
fluid film is still there even when you've thinked it's "washed away"