Master cylinder shims.

So I keep getting told to try shimming my master to get proper free play. I keep asking in reply for someone to direct me to somewhere that sells shims for our cars. I've yet to get a reply and searching google on where to buy the shims gives me nothing but a couple people loosing shims on really old cars.


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Have you tried just loosening the fasteners a touch when the brakes are hot and binding yet?

read this too-
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Replaced-front-brakes-now-stuck-partially-on

This is at least the third thread you've got going on this yet there were suggestions it the first, including the one above, that you didn't respond too other than indicating the source for the MC.

The fact that you bought the MC at Napa doesn't guarantee that it was the correct one or not defective.

What problem are you trying to solve?

These hydraulic release systems DO NOT have classic free play. If the engine is turning, so is the clutch release bearing.

The preload applied to the bearing comes from the spring inside the slave cyl pushes on the piston, push rod, fork and finally clutch release bearing.

Pedal up, ZERO PSI in system. MC push rod pushed in about 1/8" and the system shifts to pressure creation mode, port is closed. Not pedal, push rod 1/8".

GCBUG00 said:

What problem are you trying to solve?



These hydraulic release systems DO NOT have classic free play. If the engine is turning, so is the clutch release bearing.



The preload applied to the bearing comes from the spring inside the slave cyl pushes on the piston, push rod, fork and finally clutch release bearing.



Pedal up, ZERO PSI in system. MC push rod pushed in about 1/8" and the system shifts to pressure creation mode, port is closed. Not pedal, push rod 1/8".

Click to expand...

I'm having brake drag once the brakes get some heat into them and lifting the pedal releases them. I've also found out that this "pre load" I guess as you would call it makes normal stops fine but hard quick stops are scary as it takes a lot more effort of pressing to get hard braking. Lifting the pedal or doing hard stops before everything warms up it's nice and smooth as to be expected. Lifting the pedal to solve the issue is why I think it's a free play issue.


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My apology, i completely missed that this was a brake related question.

I retract my comments applying to your condition.

Good bye.

KLXD said:

This is at least the third thread you've got going on this yet there were suggestions it the first, including the one above, that you didn't respond too other than indicating the source for the MC.

The fact that you bought the MC at Napa doesn't guarantee that it was the correct one or not defective.

Click to expand...

But why would it act the same as my first one? My first MC was having this issue and the previous owner would just "pump to release" which also works on my new one but i try not to put the MC through that. I suspect the pumping is what blew out the seal on the original one that caused the fluid to eat the booster diaphragm.

DPM said:

Have you tried just loosening the fasteners a touch when the brakes are hot and binding yet?

read this too-
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Replaced-front-brakes-now-stuck-partially-on

Click to expand...

They are having a different problem but no, the brakes within a couple of minutes cool down to release on there own. If you have ever worked on a beetle the booster and master are way up under there.

Ol'Rattler said:

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=brake+master+cylinder+shims

Click to expand...

Ive done that. Ive searched where to buy as well. I see one shim for a pegasis racing master which im guessing is for drag cars? All i see if people talking about them not a actual site selling them.