Jetta 2000 Won't Start

Car is 2000 Jetta with 118K located in central Massachusetts. Cold has been slow in coming this winter. As overnight's got below 40F during week of 01/08/07, car was slow to start. Car turns over, just won't fire as quickly. On 01/11/07 car wouldn't start at all. VAG-com had a 17571 error code. I ordered a new fuel temperature sensor.

When I replaced it, I found "gel like" substance under the IP cover. (This is before I knew diesel will gel-up in cold weather) I cleaned it with some "gunk out" cleaner. I figured that was my problem, but replaced the fuel temperature sensor anyways. Car started right up. Very happy. Ran car for several days.

Temperatures falling below 20F during night last week. Car wouldn't start. I extended glow time adaptation number to 32568 per articles and car started right up. Again, I was happy and drove off. About 3 miles down road, I started to lose power and car died. Unable to start and continue attempts started wearing down battery. I figured my IP cover was probably filled with gel again and had car towed back to house. Upon inspection, there wasn't any gel and there wasn't any fuel either.

As I'm a diesel newbie, I quickly found out about anti-gel agents and installed some into tank. I replaced fuel filter and primed per how to video. I also primed IP and have confirmed fuel getting to all injectors per articles. I have confirmed the anti-shudder valve is opening/closing properly. Glow Plug light on dash does come on for 12 seconds and then goes off. Car still will not fire.

I reluctanly replaced battery with 94R from AutoZone and still can't start. I'm at a loss and don't want to continue throwing parts at this.

What to try next? Am I looking at a bad IP?

I think there was also a check valve at the fuel pickup in the tank in 2000. This sometimes gets clogged in cold weather...or just by debris. Access is under rear seat in driver's side.

Here's a link:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=161140&highlight=Fuel+Pickup+Passat+Tank+Drill

Before you get into that, verify that there is little or no fuel passing through your clear fuel line.

WMCI said:

When I replaced it, I found "gel like" substance under the IP cover.

Click to expand...

Tell us about the experimental fuels that have been used in this car.

Car does have SVO/WVO kit from GreaseCar installed in August 2006. I have not run on SVO since November as I haven't gone anywhere long enough to justify switching.

WMCI said:

Car does have SVO/WVO kit from GreaseCar installed in August 2006.

Click to expand...

I think you've found your answer.


You could have fuel line blockage somewhere in the vehicle. Sure, as a worst-case scenario, you may need to install a new pump. Some folks running the experimental fuels consider IP replacement as part of the cost of doing business.

Can you get the car to Braintree and have Chris Hill take a look at it?

I like the fuel sender/pickup suggestion. I'm going to look at this later on today I hope. Braintree is a bit of a haul for me especially since the car isn't running either.

UPDATE: Tonight I tried the "retrofit" to the fuel sender POSTed by chromeBuddha. (NOTE:The fuel sender is on passenger seat side) I found more of "gel like" substance "caked" on bottom that I mentioned in original POST. I cleaned it out as best as I could with warm water. I then drilled out plastic piece on "V" side and re-assembled.

I still can not get engine to fire. I'm concerned I've damaged starter as I saw slight smoke. I felt positive battery cable down under battery tray and it was hot to touch and it smells like something burned.

You can't grind the starter for minutes on end as you've already found out. Figure out your fuel delivery problems, prime the pump, crack the injectors til they spray, tighten everything up, crank once or twice and it will start.

UPDATE FIXED!! I replaced positive battery cable from stealership and rebuilt starter from local auto store (CAP). I used Mityvac from T connector on fuel filter to prime IP instead of connecting directly to IP. I pumped for 5 minutes and then let sit to allow gravity/pressure do it's thing. I pumped again for another 5 minutes. Reconnected return hose to T connector. Car fired up within 5 seconds of turning over.

Congrats. So to which item do you attribute the renewed operability? Did you re-prime after drilling out the pickup?

It's hard to say. Positive cable was obviously melted, but still intact. I can't confirm condition of original starter. After replacing both pieces, I think I did a better job of priming this time around. It was warmer out and I was relentless. I did not re-prime after drilling out the pickup.