I'm having the same problem. I have to hold the go pedal to the floor and crank the starter for like 30 seconds to get it to start. I need to drive this to school, how can i get it back to stock?I can't get a consistent reading for my IQ. I get it to 3.0, then drive it, it has absolutely no power and dies when I push the clutch in. After a hard restart the IQ is at 8 or 9 and slowly drops. I just can't get it dialed in. When I crack the torx screws loose, I get a bunch of air in my fuel line, if I get a decent IQ it starts idling really rough when I tighten the screws. Any suggestions before this thing visits the bottom of the local reservoir?
Love it.NB_TDi said:Everytime you post a picture with PhotoBucket, a TDI gets below 30MPG.
Metalnerd ?? Can you expand on that ?if you are good you can have the car running with VCDS displaying the IQ reading while you whack it. (not hard!) that takes the guesswork out of it
if you loosen the bolt too much, it squirts you with fuel... tighten it a little.
altho pay attention as you tighten the bolts, the IQ value may change...
it would also be a good idea to get the special bit from metalnerd to loosen the 4th bolt, makes the job much easier.
Good How to BTW
Welcome to metalnerd.com, your source for specialty tools and accessories for German Automobiles.Metalnerd ?? Can you expand on that ?
Thanks.
I did this exact method, just out of common sense, then had my IQ checked with VCDS, it was running at 1.0. There was TONS more power and absolutely no smoke except a light haze at idle when cold. I have done almost every airflow related upgrade I can think of, 3" DP & exhaust, k03/k04 turbo, ported head and exhaust manifold, port matched intake, egr delete, 1.5" intercooler piping, etc... My question is: Is there anything wrong with running at 1.0 with my setup? I have not upgraded injectors yet, that will come soon. But is there a danger of over-stressing the pump or overheating the turbo, valves, piston, etc. when running at 1.0? Once again absolutly no smoke when I had it at 1.0. Mileage seemed to be fine until I used the power, but I never did run it that way long enough to burn through a tank and then refuel. If I got on it and then looked at the gauge it would sometimes have dropped noticeably. Have it set at 3.2 now and really miss the power!I recently did this mod and while the engine was running i tapped the pump towards the driver side until the idle became poor. I then slightly tapped it back to where the idle just cleaned up. It feels like i have definately picked up a HP from doing this. The exhaust has a slight puff of black smoke when you tap the throttle or quickly accelerate from a stop.
Yes, this is how it works.NB_TDi :
My question does the IQ # being lower mean more fuel (and higher the number less fuel?). Because I have experienced a loss in power from bringing the IQ up to spec which doesn't make sense to me lol. Going to tinker with it again tomorrow evening, I may need to source out a new gasket.
My source says "2,2..9" for both engines (your ALH and my AFN).IIRC, 2.8 is the nominal value from the factory for a VE type pump. At least, it is for the ALH engine.
Martin (if you're still out there), sorry for the late reply (missed the update to this thread). Buy a reseal kit and have it on hand. Plan to hammer mod when you have time to install a couple of the seals (which would be ones of interest here).Hi UhOh,
with "bone dry" I meant it does not leak but I am scared that it does after the hammer mod because who knows how old the gasket is and if it take the move without beginning to leak.
The question is if the effor is worth the risk.
If the expected improvement from 2,8mg to the optimal 4-5mg is really noticeable or after all I have more trouble as now because I have to reseal the pump.
Greetings,
Martin
My explanation is that the ECM uses an equation to adjust from. It cannot measure how much, so you must tell it the base line. X+Y=Z. X = amount Injectcted by an Injector at standard test condition (what standard is exactly who knows) Y = increase of fuel based on maps and Z = actual injected quantity.Hi all. A newbie (on adjusting IQ at least) question for someone.
So from all that I have read, if you want less fuel getting to the engine, you want a higher IQ value, and a lower software adaptation number (this more or less a quote from myturbodiesel.com's writeup).
What puzzles me is the IQ value is mg of fuel per stroke, so a higher IQ value would seem to mean more fuel going in each cycle/stroke, no? What am I missing???
I am asking because I am about to diagnose some IQ issues and would like to understand this before I start changing things around.
TIA