New Owner 03 wagon from Maine to Kansas!

Hello all,
I am new to the TDI scene, my manager has 2 TDI jetta sedans and I too wanted to join the family. I searched the midwest for about 9 months until I found what I had been looking for; the beloved ALH motor in a wagon with near all the options that my fiance and I could take on adventures. The only mark missed was that it was an automatic. It was one of the only ones sub 200k miles I could find at the time too. The only other wrench in the purchase was its location, Portland Maine.
Decided that it was going to be an adventure in the making, so my fiance and I flew out of Kansas city to Portland to look over the vehicle. It needed a few things but I made the purchase and away we went on our 2000+ mile roadtrip back home. Stopped at a few places with our 3 day weekend like Niagra Falls on the way home. In the end the adventure was great, I have a vehicle that Im more fond of each adventure, and can't wait for more. We averaged 41mpgs on the trip home.

(2003 jetta wagon TDI automatic 188,860 miles)

I have a few issues that I am addressing a little at a time. Upon arrival home I did the basics: oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, cabin air filter, new rear hatch shocks, new wipers, and detailed.

What it really is in need of:
Timing belt kit: (purchased not installed yet)
Transmission filter kit: (purchased not installed yet)
V-belt and tensioner: (purchased not installed yet)
Coolant overflow tank: (purchased not installed yet)
Timing belt cover: (small piece missing on top, not purchased yet)
Engine cover: (heavily fractured, not sure if I want to replace)
Valvebody: (not purchased yet, slow engagement from standstill into 1st; shift from 1st to 2nd also delayed, all other gears nominal)
Brakes/rotors: (purchased need to install)
Suspension: (needs replaced, open for opinions)
EGR Cooler: (leaking coolant into exhaust as of yesterday, open for opinions)
Tune: (looking at malone tune stage 1 with features)

In addition to the above my key fob only works to lock the doors and briefly used to unlock them too, now no longer. Battery? Anti-theft? Programming?

I have also since cleaned and flushed the engine oil and am treating the fuel and oil with my company's product line. Will do the same with the coolant, ATF, and brake fluids soon.

I greatly appreciate your input and assistance with rebuilding this vehicle, it is focused to be my daily driver as I also commute 300 miles every weekend for work/family/etc.
-Chemist

IMO on the EGR cooler one option is to route the coolant hoses around it and cap the ports on the cooler itself. You will almost-certainly not get an MIL doing this, the cooler will still be present, EGR will still be present, and the car will thus almost-certainly pass an emissions inspection (if you have one.) However, the coolant leak will be stopped. This will slightly impact both emissions and power (both negatively) but would be something I would consider with a similar condition.

The cooler can be replaced of course but they're expensive. Also, I would buy the (inexpensive) intake manifold gasket kit and clean the intake if required -- it probably is, although the only way to know is to remove the EGR valve and look.

If the fob doesn't work does the LED brightly flash when the button is pushed? If not then the battery is dead. Do deal with the ATX soon as these are "fixable" if caught before internal damage to the clutch packs gets out of control -- once that happens there's really nothing you can do other than replace the gearbox, and IMHO if you're going to do THAT I'd convert it to a MTX since buying a replacement ATX box is hella expensive.

Do any of your manager's TDIs have an automatic transmission? Would be instructive to compare overall performance against: even if not, still gives you a general idea. A coked up intake will, in most cases, make the car feel like it's turbo-less (really a dog); but, there's also other things that can make them feel doggy as well.

If you or your manager don't have VCDS then you'll want to get it. Really cannot work on these cars without it (especially if wanting to determine any 01m issues).

Many times folks have perked up an 01m by fluid and filter change. In this case it sounds like there's a decent chance that this will revive it. Search for CoolAirVW's 01m threads, they provide a LOT of great info on these transmissions. I would be cautious about throwing parts at the 01m unless you are pretty confident that they'll resolve a problem (not a lot of things are a sure fix).

Be sure to clean out behind the rear fender liners at the front. Might also check to see if there's still foam at the outside middle of the fender arch: these trap moisture and result in rusting from the inside-out (I have one such victim).

Genesis said:

IMO on the EGR cooler one option is to route the coolant hoses around it and cap the ports on the cooler itself. You will almost-certainly not get an MIL doing this, the cooler will still be present, EGR will still be present, and the car will thus almost-certainly pass an emissions inspection (if you have one.) However, the coolant leak will be stopped. This will slightly impact both emissions and power (both negatively) but would be something I would consider with a similar condition.

The cooler can be replaced of course but they're expensive. Also, I would buy the (inexpensive) intake manifold gasket kit and clean the intake if required -- it probably is, although the only way to know is to remove the EGR valve and look.

If the fob doesn't work does the LED brightly flash when the button is pushed? If not then the battery is dead. Do deal with the ATX soon as these are "fixable" if caught before internal damage to the clutch packs gets out of control -- once that happens there's really nothing you can do other than replace the gearbox, and IMHO if you're going to do THAT I'd convert it to a MTX since buying a replacement ATX box is hella expensive.

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Thank you Genesis, I may have to reroute the coolant lines for the short term until i can get a replacement cooler. The coolant is making it hard for the car to breath both on the intake (inhale) via EGR and exhaust (exhale). I forgot to mention I have indeed cleaned out the EGR itself and debris near the intake inlet as prior to the leak it was clean. I will remove the intake entirely and clean it as well. For kicks I will borescope it and assess the damage as well.

UhOh said:

Do any of your manager's TDIs have an automatic transmission? Would be instructive to compare overall performance against: even if not, still gives you a general idea. A coked up intake will, in most cases, make the car feel like it's turbo-less (really a dog); but, there's also other things that can make them feel doggy as well.

If you or your manager don't have VCDS then you'll want to get it. Really cannot work on these cars without it (especially if wanting to determine any 01m issues).

Many times folks have perked up an 01m by fluid and filter change. In this case it sounds like there's a decent chance that this will revive it. Search for CoolAirVW's 01m threads, they provide a LOT of great info on these transmissions. I would be cautious about throwing parts at the 01m unless you are pretty confident that they'll resolve a problem (not a lot of things are a sure fix).

Be sure to clean out behind the rear fender liners at the front. Might also check to see if there's still foam at the outside middle of the fender arch: these trap moisture and result in rusting from the inside-out (I have one such victim).

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Thank you UhOh, yes my manager has 2 ALH jetta sedans, both are manual one is a donor after his timing belt snapped and the engine pan bottomed out. Neither of us have VCDS but I have a coworker who is an Audi tech, I'm sure he does.
The transmission had a service at 166k at a dealer who recommended that the valvebody is to blame for the late shifting. I have reviewed CoolAir's website and videos a good bit and may attempt the swap after additional diagnosis and fluid/filter swap. Will check the fenders.

Hi Chemist. First of all, congrats on your find. On the EGR cooler, if you decide you want to keep it functional and stock, I have my EGR cooler still lying around from when I did my EGR delete. If you want them, I could make you a heck of a deal. Everything was functioning perfectly with no leaks and with OEM coolant when it was removed at around 140k. Let me know and I'll be happy to help you out.

williambill said:

Hi Chemist. First of all, congrats on your find. On the EGR cooler, if you decide you want to keep it functional and stock, I have my EGR cooler still lying around from when I did my EGR delete. If you want them, I could make you a heck of a deal. Everything was functioning perfectly with no leaks and with OEM coolant when it was removed at around 140k. Let me know and I'll be happy to help you out.

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William, thank you for the heads up. I am looking to keep it functional if the long term performance is worth it. Feel free to PM or email me about your cooler, looking to get it back to healthy breathing ASAP. I too have a 2002 F250 7.3L, great minds think alike!

Chemist said:

William, thank you for the heads up. I am looking to keep it functional if the long term performance is worth it. Feel free to PM or email me about your cooler, looking to get it back to healthy breathing ASAP. I too have a 2002 F250 7.3L, great minds think alike!

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PM’ed

Congrats on the find!

Congrats, but I could have helped with some of the items on the list before your adventure home. I also could have looked the car over before your flight out. Glad it worked out for you and I hope you enjoy the car.

Abacus said:

Congrats, but I could have helped with some of the items on the list before your adventure home. I also could have looked the car over before your flight out. Glad it worked out for you and I hope you enjoy the car.

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Thanks for the offer Abacus, I will be out that way again this summer as the fiance and I want to see Niagra without all the ice. Maybe from the Canadian side as well. Didn't get to see all the cool stuff in Maine as the visit was brief but determined to have a lobster there.

Again big thanks to williambill for sending me his old cooler. I'll install once it gets in. For now I'll finish the bypass tomorrow for temporary use.

Chemist said:

Thanks for the offer Abacus, I will be out that way again this summer as the fiance and I want to see Niagra without all the ice. Maybe from the Canadian side as well.

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Definitely see it from the Canadian side.

Having seen the falls from both sides if you haven't done the Canadian side you have absolutely no idea what you didn't see.

The Canadians have it far better in terms of the view.... (I spent close to a week in that general area last summer and it's utterly awesome; some of the best vacation dollars, in "bang for the buck", I've spent in my life.)

If you are going to tune the car (and you should �&#56846 then I’d go with and EGR and EGR cooler delete. Cleans things up and your tuner can make the pesky CEL go away.

Congrats on the new ride! Normally people fly out of the Northeast to bring back rust free specimens. They salt our roads so heavily up here. How is the body on it?

Chemist said:

I want to see Niagra without all the ice. Maybe from the Canadian side as well.

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Keep in mind you need a passport or enhanced driver license (if your state has them) to get back into the US.

It's a hassle if you don't have it from what I was told.

The only thing I missed there's an underground passage that opens behind the falls and you see the rush of the water going down.

KITEWAGON said:

If you are going to tune the car (and you should ) then I’d go with and EGR and EGR cooler delete. Cleans things up and your tuner can make the pesky CEL go away.

Congrats on the new ride! Normally people fly out of the Northeast to bring back rust free specimens. They salt our roads so heavily up here. How is the body on it?

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I indeed will get a tune, looking at Malone Stage 1. For now to keep the car running without issue and the CEL away, I have bypassed the EGR cooler and connected the coolant line from heater core to the thermostat housing. Now the car can breath and I don't leave a smokescreen wherever I go.

I got lucky at the parts store and found a heater core hose with the two different sized ends of the hose to use. The part i used is an AC Delco:
AC DELCO Part Number: 16344M
The fit is pretty snug and the line isn't too long/short but could be trimmed if needed. Mine fit well as was.

The undercarriage is nominal, but the brakes/rotors however are terribly corroded. Will replace them soon with the set on hand.

You'll like the tune...

One of the things on my new purchase checklist is to clean out the junk from the inner fender (the rear-most section of the front fenders) - there will most likely be a pile of leaves and crud that makes way from the cowl and settles there at the bottom just waiting to rust out. You won't have to remove the whole thing, just enough of the fasteners to get access and clean.

I'd also plan to change the vacuum lines, its easy and cheap.