Car won't start troubleshooting

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
Do rdkern's battery voltage check first.

Using a multimeter to directly measure the resistance of high current carrying cables is not the best way to test the wires. Even one strand making good contact will give you low resistance, but it cannot carry the required current. (and your resistance is much too high, anyway; a starter pulls hundreds of amps, 300 amps times .5 ohms total resistance is 150 volts... you see the problem? Or to put it another way 12volts divided by .5 ohms = 24 amps, and you need 300 amps. Remember V=I*R, V/R=I, etc)

The best way to check heavy cables is to measure voltage drop under high current load.

So while trying to start the car measure the voltage from:
1)The starter solenoid (heavy wire from the battery) to battery + (good if near zero)
2) The starter solenoid (heavy wire from the battery) to Battery -(good if near 12 volts.)
3) The transmission to battery - (good if near zero)
4) Chassis ground to battery -(good if near zero)

It sounds as if your cable resistance is high. It should be zero when measured with a multimeter.

Clean all high current connections. (Battery +, -, battery to chassis ground, starter) Check the cable ends where they go into the lugs. If one is getting hot when cranking, that is a problem. Many people report bad connectors on the solenoid end of the heavy cable from battery +. Clean the grounds under the battery, and on the transmission.

Dan
 

cspeter8

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Location
Central Connecticut
TDI
2004 Passat Sedan
A not to a site or forum administrator:
There is a 'Section 8 - Troubleshooting' area within TDIFAQ that looks very similar to much of this content, has a number of broken internal hyperlinks, and missing sections (especially under 'car will not start', which is my current problem). I suggest that that section be removed or updated with a pointer here.
 

neskarm

New member
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Location
Manitoba
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Jetta won't start

I've got 250,000 k on my 2002 Jetta. I noticed in the summer if the car sat a day or two the engine would groan as it tried to turn over. After a few seconds it 'caught' and spun and started no problem. I replaced the battery but the problem continues to exist especially now that it is cold outside. It goes through the glow plugs, but it just groans and won't turn over. It does not happen if the vehicle is warm or has run in the last 6 - 8 hours unless parked outside in the cold not plugged in.

Is it most likely the starter? How do I diagnose this? Is this a do it yourself job? Cost?
 

egibbys

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
1999 Jetta TDI GLS
neskarm said:
Is it most likely the starter? How do I diagnose this? Is this a do it yourself job? Cost?
It sounds like a seizing starter. If it is then yes it’s very easily done yourself I've replace a few. (Not my car) Starters run around $150. Or you could get it rebuild for like $80 if you find a place that does it.
 
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whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
When I had my starter rebuilt, it was like $140. Now I just need to figure out if the rebuilt one is on the car or on the bench because my Beetle is starting slower and slower and my battery is new.

Yeah. I really should check this out.

Maybe tomorrow... :)
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Potion #5 (fuel starvation; REMOVED the PLUNGER; must re-prime inj. lines)

I couldn't drive my (2002 Jetta, TDI Wagon) for two days this week, because it refused to start in the morning (it got a bit cold here, below freezing). I fixed it last night.

Initially, considering lack of air or lack of fuel, I first looked at the vacuum hose between the changeover valve and the ASV flap actuator ... that had split/abraded wide open. And I played around with forcing the linkage into one position or another, using little bungee cords. But the plunger was never really "stuck", and I believe if the vacuum is open then the flap will always be "open", i.e. it can't cut off the air intake at shutdown time. So, that was kind of a waste of time on my part.

My real problem was the Fuel cutoff solenoid: That plunger was just sitting in its hole and wouldn't come back up. FYI, the voltage at the terminal is between 11 and 12 V (on my vehicle) and it stayed on for about 15 seconds (or, 12 to 15, I didn't time it accurately) after turning on the ignition switch. Now, I wonder whether the little "click" that I'd hear when energizing was just the SPRING hitting the solenoid, instead of the entire plunger??

When I took the solenoid out, the plunger definitely felt stuck down there; but, it didn't take a lot of force with my fingers to dislodge it. Still, I suspect that the solenoid couldn't draw it up. Once I had the solenoid and plunger out, I connected it manually (externally) to the battery and it drew the plunger in like a champ ... but I still don't know whether that was really "strong" enough. It might have gotten a bit weaker with age; but as an engineer, I don't think that this electromagnetic effect can fade (at all) over time, unless the coil impedance worsens (EM properties changing with age). So, this was just a "stuck plunger" situtation. Pic --


I think the real impact on me was that since my plunger had been lodged at the bottom position for a couple of days, despite my cranking the engine a bunch of times, the injection lines had lost all pressure (probably due to the return path) and my injectors probably had become bone dry. Therefore, once I REMOVED The Plunger (it's in my office now, with its little spring;), I had to go through a long process of cranking, waiting, etc. (yes, I cracked open one of the injector line connection) before one or two cylinders would fire. Finally, the thing started and ran fine.

The cutoff solenoid (I mean, "valve") is mentioned in several places, but I suspect that some of us don't really know fully how it works until you take it apart and play with it. There's a diagram in my Bentley book, but I didn't understand the dynamics. This (Cutoff Valve Diagnosis) deserves a little How-To of its own, for first-timers who may get into the same situation.

By the way: (TDI "101") This plunger, although it's black in color, and you might initially assume it's a plastic piece -- it's actually metallic (must be ferrous but Not Magnetizing); the solenoid attracts it when energized. When de-energized (engine shuts down), the little spring takes over and shoves the plunger back down. Now, I have a feeling that the spring has a wee bit of magnetic permeability (I forgot what you call it when something permanently "magnetizes"), and prefers to remain up in the core area, nearest the solenoid winding, even when the thing is shut off ... which is not any problem. Just noticing;

(I'm planning to buy a new cutoff solenoid w/plunger, for good measure. It seems to cost about 90 USD. And I should have done a more thorough job of repriming the injection lines using my Mity-Vac, etc.; I didn't even use it; poor excuse, all of my extremities were freezing out there last night.)

There was a good deal of gunk in the threaded area of my fuel cutoff solenoid, I don't know why. The O-ring seemed kind of flattened and stayed around the hole, didn't come away with the solenoid ... so, I brushed it with my fingers, flipped it over when I put this back together. Pic --

(I've messed with this FIP before, since I've done the Head seal replacement; Top and Middle seal replacements; All of those procedures went smoothly.) Regards, Larry.
 
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l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Re: Potion #5 ... now left with #9

My car started and worked great all day (yesterday), from 5:30 (AM) to the return trip 12 hours later. This follows the experience of fooling around with it for a couple of days (did removed the fuel cutoff plunger, which WAS stuck), finally eventually drew enough fuel into the engine to run smoothly as usual.

This morning, to my chagrin, 5:15AM NO START. It cranked fine ... the starter action sounded perfectly normal (even the battery seemed quite happy). By the way, my CTS (temperature sensor) has been on the fritz for the past couple of days ... must not be making a good connection since I re-seated the harness connector; therefore I'm seeing the MAX GP Pre-glow time now. (Which should be fine;) (* update ... reseated that CTS a couple of times, cleared fault codes; problem gone. *)

So my vehicle situation is now more like "#9"; however, I don't think I'm losing prime (losing fuel) in the pump proper; and I think my inspection portion of the tube is all right (feeding the pump). I believe I'm losing prime somewhere in the return path.

(* update *) I can re-prime and start this car, just by connecting (Mity-Vac) to the return tube connection of the FIP, pulling froth from there. And cracking open the injector line nut on #3.

Question ... Is it normal to just get froth/foam out of the return line (on the VE pump)? This is while the injector lines are still tightened down, before I cracked one loose. When priming the pump (through the return path), some have asked whether there should be any easily-moving fuel coming through, or -- are you supposed to disconnect anything else? I think that it should pull fuel all the way from the filter through ... even though the pump is stationary ... but understandably it would require higher vacuum than when you just pull through the filter itself. I wonder, why the froth though? Maybe that's pointing to my air leak.

I replaced those return fuel tubes (I'd misplaced the Viton that I'd bought mid-2007), using 3mm i.d. trying hi-temp silicone; paramedick (Bruce) told me that this material is not a good choice, so I'll have to get some more VW material (dealer wants 30 USD/m; 1stVWParts only charges 17 USD; tdiparts.com only charges 5 USD/m). Good news is that this morning, it started up with no problem. Will monitor cold-start throughout the week;

I asked the local VW dealer about that End Cap (to the left of injector #1); they want $4.40 ... 1stVWParts.com only charges $2.04 (Part Number for the cap is 028130229A) Larry.
 
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l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Apparent air in lines, situation #5/#9

My no-start situation is recurring. This problem is persisting; one morning it'll start okay, and the next morning, bad stuff. Yesterday evening, I had it parked for a few hours, then started it and it was already sounding a bit "airy" on start (I mean, taking an additional second, when cranking ... I'm sensitive to this;)

This morning, it took me about a half-hour of messing around with it until it would really start and run. I've already replaced the excess fuel return hoses (although haven't bought an end cap yet), so they can't be the culprit.

I'd inspected my thermostatic T-valve the other day (had replaced it a couple of years ago), it (o-rings etc.) looked all right. Definitely a possible culprit (O-rings), though.

I'm still not understanding something about the priming procedure for the injector tubes and return path:
Question #1 -- When I pull vacuum at the return pipe (pink/maroon arrow in Whitedog's picture) of the pump, I only get froth/foam coming out, not liquid. Is that normal?
Question #2 -- After doing that, if you remove the Mity-Vac, reconnect that hose, and then crack loose a nut on the injector line (like, #3), does that reverse the priming that was just done? I mean, what happens when you allow air to enter at the nut, will that make air infiltrate significantly from the excess return path, back ahead of the injectors?

Sorry to be silly, but I still don't understand (A) the magnitude of pressure, and transition between the injectors, those excess return lines, and (B) what happens at that union (or check valve? banjo?) where that excess return hose connects in to the top of the FIP. Have not found a really good explanation of these things (and how it factors in to priming procedures) for the VE-based TDI.

Mine is "most likely" the thermostatic T-valve ... would that be a likely culprit if my injector feed lines are going dry? Also, would one little seepage/pinhole location in the excess fuel return hoses be enough to make the injectors get air in their feed path?

My inspection (clear) tube feeding the FIP still looks good, I don't think I'm having any dry feed to the pump. In the past couple of years I've done the head seal, middle/QA and top cover seals (after which, everything worked nicely for many months). I also took out my fuel filter the other day, drained the bottom bit ... when I pull fuel thru the filter (using Mity-Vac), that seems to flow nicely.

Thanks guys, if anyone can help me! Larry (edited to make more sense)
 
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l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Banjo fitting (to Return line, at top of IP)

I wonder whether I'm getting a bit of air coming in at the banjo connection ... where the return from the injector comes in (on the nipple), and there's a connection to the IP top cover, and that main return line branches out from the "Banjo bolt". I had loosened this up and swivelled it around, last year when I did my IP Middle/QA (and Top) seal replacements. (I didn't know how to remove it; so I just let it flop around, until re-tightening it afterward.)

How does that return fuel flow work, anyway ... I mean, is the purpose to allow some fuel to come out of the top of the pump??

Does anyone know a good way to test here, for air leaks at that location? I should probably just torque it down more tightly (if possible), and see whether my problem goes away.

UPDATE -- I went out and struggled to prime it, before later when I'm gonna have to leave work. (I'd let the Mity-Vac get gummed up by fuel, from this morning, so had to completely clean that out ... took a while.) I disconnected the excess return hose (from the injector group), and applied vacuum by hand there (instead of downstream from the Banjo fitting, like we usually do). There, I saw liquid ... not much air, just a few occasional, isolated bubbles. After a while of pumping, didn't see any more bubbles.

So I took that (hand pump) off of that hose, reconnected the hose up to the banjo fitting. and then Mity-Vac'ed that as usual ... got froth out. Hmmmm ??

After (almost an hour this time, including taking apart / cleaning the Mity-Vac, then trying to get that darned handle back on) getting the d@#%#$ engine finally running, I shut down and torqued the end piece of the Banjo bolt. Gave it about 1/2 turn ... afraid to over-tighten here since it might disturb my IP seal(?), or crack the Banjo or IP case. But it wasn't loose, by any means. ??? Larry
 
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whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
There is a copper seal on each side of that banjo fitting. I bet that you can get them locally but they would be metric. You can also re-anneal them.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Banjo seals

whitedog, does the inner part (where you think you could put a wrench, but it's so skinny) of the banjo fitting move? When I did my Top and Middle seals, I couldn't figure out how to get this banjo bolt off ... I only succeeded in loosening the outer piece (so, the pipe would spin around).

So my procedure (if I were to obtain new copper seals) would be, to remove the Outer securing bolt, pull off the copper gasket, then pull off the banjo, then pull off the Inner copper gasket? And, don't mess with the "inner" hex-faced fitting? Please pardon my ignorance ... thanks; Larry
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
If you didn't touch that inner one, it shouldn't be a problem...

On the other hand, you are right there and the seal will be cheap and ... well, you see where I'm going with this? Since you are troubleshooting and other areas have been checked, just replace all three. Take off the nut, then take off the rest of it by turning that skinny nut. You are working on aluminum so be cautious that you don't over tighten and strip that top cover.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Air issue ... trying filter and tee valve bypass

Over the course of several days (and I thank Whitedog for trying to address all of my questions and speculation) ... I believe I've ruled out a couple of things, including -- The spill/return hose network from the injectors; and the Banjo bolt connection (in the fuel return path).

(The fuel cutoff solenoid/switch thing was ruled out early on, since I removed that plunger and silly me, initially assumed that was the culprit)

By the way, while the engine is idling, if I press the ASV flap control arm all the way, it doesn't stall the engine. But I imagine it really helps it to shut down more decisively. In this vein ... I don't believe that my flap has gotten stuck closed at all (relevant to my intermittent cold-start issue).

I haven't been able (yet) to rule out the fuel filter, especially the thermostatic tee valve. So now, I went ahead and picked up a little fuel filter, that I can see through, to use in place of the correct/original filter ... and, equally important, bypassed the tee valve as well. It took me quite a while to get this set up correctly, since I had trouble finding a 2-ended barbed straight coupler. Finally I found one (made for plastic fuel lines) at a parts store, and had to go 3/8" instead of 5/16". The fuel filter (I know it's not really correct) is a Fram "G-2", obviously meant for gasoline. I have no idea how good or bad is this choice.

Here are a couple of pictures. The first just shows the connections ... after initially priming the filter, and letting it run at idle, it only took on a small amount of fuel --


So then I went and drove around for several blocks. After that, the filter was full. There are some really tiny bubbles in there, but I assume that's just a natural effect of the fuel sending unit (back at the tank) --


I don't think that it's a super idea to drive for many days using this type of filter, probably due to the very small amount of surface area (filtration depth or whatever) that I'm getting. Not sure about the flow resistance either ... but once I do some freeway driving (tomorrow morning), I'll know whether that's gonna starve my pump. Also, there's obviously no warming/heating effect in the filter, since I had to bypass the tee valve. But that's probably an efficiency/emissions/mileage issue (which won't bother me).

The entire point of this is that I want to see whether my no-start condition will return in the next 1 to 3 days (or shorter, or longer). If it does, then I probably have a pump seal issue. If it doesn't, then a new tee valve (or O-rings) (or filter ... Tee and Filter are due to arrive in a few days) ... or some feeder hoses ought to fix it! Will post back here again; Larry.
 

jimurl

New member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
Livingston, Montana, just a grizz-hair north of Ye
TDI
Jetta 1997
Bleeding fuel lines

I have been busy troubleshoot a No Start Condition, and I have a couple of questions about bleeding the fuel lines:

As the last step of bleeding the fuel lines, should I be attaching the mighty vac (which is, like you say, mighty handy) to the return line going back from the IP to the fuel filter? I was able to suck some fuel this way for a while, but then the flow stopped, even at 15" Hg vaccum.

My other question is about bleeding earlier in the fuel line than that- I'm getting bubbles when sucking fuel through the filter. I can't find any leaks, my only theory is that the white plastic thing that snaps into the top of the filter (the return lines are attached to it) is not seating well, and that somehow air is getting from there into the supply lines. Can that happen?

Thanks, I hope removing the air solves my problem. If not, I'll be back here to tell the whole tale and get some more advice. Thanks.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Re: Priming

Jimurl, yeah on the 1st question -- you pull on the Return path;
I've seen minimal flow of fuel that way, even @ 25 inches Hg on the hand pump. The fuel kind of creeps through the tubing ... mine has always had froth, or foam in it when I do that. Not initially though (initially, there's some brief amount of just liquid fuel, with some big air bubbles).

Now, I haven't repeated that return path priming, since several days back when I installed my experimental fuel filter bypass. Reason -- I was tired of all the priming, the mess (w/ fuel spurting out of injector pipe connections which you have to loosen, when cranking the air/fuel thru the lines). So, I don't know whether my return path would still have the same foam/froth, if I did it now.

If you primed the return path at the hose end that connects to the thermostatic Tee valve (i.e. at the filter), I think that's about the same as doing it at the pipe that leads to the Banjo bolt. In fac, I did that as well. Just don't try it on the wrong (downstream) side of the thermostatic Tee valve, or else you'd be drawing returned fuel back from the fuel tank.

About the 2nd question, clarify which side (path) on the fuel filter; the two ports on the "intake" side probably don't need any more priming at this point (one port is on the fuel tank side, the other port leads to the FIP input) ... when you draw fuel here, you're filling the fuel filter and getting the air out of it. But my concern when I do this is that I've now opened the path between the filter and pump ... then you gotta close that up again, with the air you just let in. I believe that's why the recommended priming procedure tells you then (afterward) to pull fuel through the pump ... it's supposed to draw out that air that was in the intake line. But I (like you) didn't find that to be terribly easy. In fact, maybe that air will end up being the air that gets into the injector lines, that you have to push out with the assistance of cracking those nuts open prior to cranking the starter. These are my thoughts, I haven't found anyone explaining it really well for dummies like me.

About "why" the bubbles are seen when you pull vacuum on the Return path ... I've wondered that too, and I never really figured out whether the air was coming in at the thermostatic Tee valve. Therefore, try reseating the two O-rings (one is blue, one is black) on tee valve ... how about coating them with Petroleum Jelly (vaseline)?

I forgot that I had an extra (unused, sealed) set of those O-rings, in my storage, and I could have tried them. But I was tired of the whole process of priming, heavy use of the starter, etc. So I'm just gonna put in as many new (small) parts as I can. I'm even gonna order a new set of lines that go between the filter and pump ... they're expensive; I think the best price is at 1stvwparts.com

I'm wasting money by replacing all of these little things (filter, tee valve, return lines), if my problem was just the O-rings on the tee valve. But, on the other hand if I just put those parts in and the problem doesn't come back, then I'll be happy to not go back into that scenario.

All of the parts I've ordered will be coming in next week. Until then, I'm still driving around using that temporary fuel filter (bypassing the built-in fixture). The good thing for me is, it's been starting up just like a champ lately ... the entire time! Larry
 
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jimurl

New member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
Livingston, Montana, just a grizz-hair north of Ye
TDI
Jetta 1997
To clarify, I disconnected the line from the thermostatic T-valve that comes from the IP. So that side of the T-valve was open. After re-reading your previous post and thinking about it a bit, I think that is probably where the air was entering the system. I tested this throy by removing the T-valve and putting the little plastic cap in there (comes with a new filter, to keep dirt outta the hole). It makes a very good seal. I was then able to suck fuel through the filter with no bubbles.

On pullliing fuel through the IP: I tried 'bumping' the starter- just turning it over for a second to put the IP in a different position, or move some fuel through the lines while I had the might vac attached to the return liine. That seemed to help remove some of the air bubbles and get things flowing along a bit.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
No bubbles in return from pump ...

Jim, that's very interesting!
You must allow that return flow to exit somewhere, even into an open container.

At first I forgot that there'd be real active pressure behind it ... I bypassed the fuel filter inlet path, kept the tee-valve in there, and slipped some vinyl caps on the intake-stream ports of the filter. After running for a minute or two ... boom! Cap shot off somewhere, fuel spraying all over.

Can you now crack loose the injector pipe nuts, put rags/towels around the nuts/inectors, and crank with success? I mean, you crank for 20 seconds or so at a time, let it rest, and after a while you hear one or two cylinders fire. Then start to tighten down those nuts, especially the ones where fuel has obviously spurted out.

If you first disconnect the Coolant Temp Sensor harness, you'll also get max preglow time, will have to ignore the Malfunction Indicator light / engine fault code, instrument fault code (seen via OBD-II) when you do this. I don't recall if you can get the fault to go away by itself later (after reconnecting the harness) ... I think it doesn't go away, but I thought one time in the past it did go away by itself.

Anyway, I just figured that it's cold there by you. Larry
 
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Pat McEuen

New member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Location
Ft. Thomas, AZ.
TDI
2001 Beatle
TDI diesel injection pump

Does anyone know a good place to get a diesel injector pump(at a reasonable price) for an 01 TDI Beetle with an auto transmission?
Thanks.
 

AUGSX

Veteran Member
Joined
May 7, 2007
Location
Miami, Fl.
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI 5spd
I have been trying to fix my car for a month now and i can't get it to start. the motors turns but wont turn over. Will low oil level cause the car not to start? Also i have cracked the #1 and #3 injector lines open and there is no fuel. I here the fuel pump click when i turn the key and nothing. I am lost. Car sat for a few months and then this happened. 2001 jetta 1.9 auto. Any sudjestions or help would be great.

thanks,

Augie
 

AUGSX

Veteran Member
Joined
May 7, 2007
Location
Miami, Fl.
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI 5spd
no the engine turns but it wont turn over. It won't run. The clear fuel line has a little bit of fuel at the bottom but thats it. maybe a bad fuel pump?
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
The fuel has drained back to tank and your injection pump doesn't have any fuel in it. You need to go to the post about if you had something in the fuel system opened up and learn how to bleed the fuel system.
 

AUGSX

Veteran Member
Joined
May 7, 2007
Location
Miami, Fl.
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI 5spd
Is this normal when a car sits for a long time? Also were can i get a MityVac?
 

whitedog

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Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
You can get one at Sears or Harbor Freight.

If your fuel system has a leak, the fuel will drain back to tank or drain out of the injection pump.
 

AUGSX

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Joined
May 7, 2007
Location
Miami, Fl.
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI 5spd
Thanks again, I hope this fuel leak is not serious. I dont have the cash to be doing any major repairs right now.
 

AUGSX

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Joined
May 7, 2007
Location
Miami, Fl.
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI 5spd
Any specific model of the mityvac I should be looking for I just went on their website and they have a bunch.
 
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