1992 isuzu to diesel TDI swap

superhl

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I have a "T" on the fuel and a "T" on the return line. The are connected between the two.
The first image is T's installed in behind the filter(current) and second image in front.
[/IMG]

[/IMG]

The theory is the IP will use what it needs and rest will return to the tanks. Vwztips on this forum recommended this.

"For the conversion I have done from gas to TDI (all VW to VW) I have put a "T" in the line joining the supply and return lines. Never had an issue with this set up. It just dumps back to tank what it doesn't need.

So far that has worked on a AllRoad, Tiguan and 4Mo Passat " Vwztips


Fuel pump specs.
PSI 43.5
Min GPH 38

Still waiting for VCDS to arrive. Maybe next week when the Hurricane moves on
 
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Motohead1

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Hmm I would be curious what your fuel temp gets up to on a 90F+ day. But if its been done before you should be fine.
 

superhl

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Are you using the Dodge lift pump? If so, How much pressure does it produce? Do i need this ? Can't remember, but someone where I read that if the lift pump produces too much pressure to the IP it will burn it up. On another thread, I read I need to take the sock off the lift pump??
 
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Motohead1

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You can put clear lines on so you could see if there are any issues. There are also very slight amounts of bubbles returning from the injectors in normal operation. clear lines would let you see if your looping them back into the pump.


I just dont understand the reason for the T fittings?


I have a 2001 dodge cummins intank pump there is no sock on it and its around 12psi.


The VE pump regulates the case pressure so unless your shoving very high fuel PSI at it its fine.
 

superhl

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According to specs, 45.3 PSI is what the lsuzu pickup is pumping. Is this too much?
 

PickleRick

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43.5 is way too much. The lift pump in the passat is sub 10 psi iirc, the tandom pump makes all the pressure.


You're fine running the t and will have no issues doing so. If you ever get a bad tank of fuel you'll have an easy spot to hook to in order to drain the tank!
 

superhl

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PickleRick,
When I first installed the T's, I thinking it was starting on the first revolutions not sure though. It may be coincidental. The T's were installed in front of the fuel filter then after reading your message I moved the T's behind the fuel filter. I guess it shouldn't matter if T's or in front or behind of fuel filter.
 

superhl

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You can put clear lines on so you could see if there are any issues. There are also very slight amounts of bubbles returning from the injectors in normal operation. clear lines would let you see if your looping them back into the pump.


I just dont understand the reason for the T fittings?


I have a 2001 dodge cummins intank pump there is no sock on it and its around 12psi.


The VE pump regulates the case pressure so unless your shoving very high fuel PSI at it its fine.
Once the VCDS arrives and I rule out timing, I going to try the clear lines. Are you using rubber lines or steel? I also ordered a crankshaft positioning sensor.
 
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superhl

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fuel pump

Here is the Isuzu fuel pump. Do I need to remove he sock?
[/IMG]
 

Motohead1

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According to specs, 45.3 PSI is what the lsuzu pickup is pumping. Is this too much?

It could be too much depends on the GPH? Do you know what your real fuel pressure is? probably not to much with all those Ts in there.


Did you have to do a lot fabricating to get the cummins pump installed?

It was a in tank drop in just had to shorten the pump and extend the harness a little and bent the float level.


Once the VCDS arrives and I rule out timing, I going to try the clear lines. Are you using rubber lines or steel? I also ordered a crankshaft positioning sensor.

Im running the stock dodge hard lines then clamped clear lines on everywhere where needed. I wrapped them all with small wire loom for protection but since that stuff is split down the middle you can quickly pull it off to see the clear lines.






Yea you need to pull that sock off. It will clog eventually.
 

PickleRick

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In my experience diesels use a fuel sediment screen vs the sock gassers use.

Although in old land cruisers that used both diesel and gassers depending on where they were purchased there was no screen or sock, just a pick up tube and a drain/sediment bowl area of the tank to keep the crap lower than the pick up. These had no fuel pump other than an injection pump or mechanical fuel pump.

Not all companies are that smart. Ford used galvanized tanks in f250/350 trucks unless it was a diesel. Imagine how many people bought a junk yard fuel tank for their diesel not realizing the interaction that woild take place between the diesel sulphur and the galvanized tank.
 

superhl

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Vcds

Here are the results of the VAG scan..


Saturday,22,September,2018,18:02:55:09494
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.1.5 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4411.4
Data version: 20180518 DS287.2
www.Ross-Tech.com





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1C - VW New Beetle (1998 > 2010)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Part No: 038 906 012 FF
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 4104
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 59EF8EE2000B23AF56A-4B3C

5 Faults Found:
17971 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1563 - 35-00 - Lower Limit Reached
17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
P1354 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
16610 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensors (G79)/(G185)
P0226 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17655 - Needle Lift Sensor (G80)
P1247 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
16491 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96)
P0107 - 35-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Readiness: 0 5 0 0 1

End----------(Elapsed Time: 04:35, VBatt start/end: 12.2V/12.2V)-----------
 

superhl

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I found the what is causing the slow start. I unplugged the MAP sensor and cranks on first rotation... Now how do I fix it???
 

superhl

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Differential 4:30

1992 Isuzu pickup with 4:20 differential tachometer reading at 2500 RPM's 60 mph. Can it be re-geared or swapped with a differential from a salvage yard with a higher ratio?
 

PickleRick

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Is your pu 2wd?

If so it would be cheaper to buy a junker axle from the scrap yard. I dont know what lug pattern you have(there are adapters)

At the local lkq the non highly sought after rear diffs are less than 200 bucks. I purchased them as little as 50 bucks on Craigslist.

Your small truck probably has the similar rear axle width of a ford ranger,s10, jeep xj/yj/tj, explorer, rodeo, blazer etc. Id try to find isuzu options first so you dont need drive shaft mods. Regearing sucks, preload, spacers, dial gauges for proper clearances, plus gears are not cheap! Not sure if you've done it before.

If isuzu doesn't have direct fit proper geared axles that bolt right up cutting off your spring/strut perches and welding them back on a new axle will be easy. I do it with a portable 110 Lincoln flux core. I measure, tack, install, re measure and then weld if it's right.

Getting the correct pinion angle is as simple as owning/borrowing a magnetic angle finder. The trick is finding it before removing the oem axle. Take 2 measurements, 1 with the vehicle weight and again with it all the way in the air. Before you weld it up double check both.

Mount her up, take measurements of the drive shaft then take your drive shaft to the nearest shop to have a proper flange welded on and ballanced.

Ive swapped many axles on my sisters old yj before finally paying for proper axles to hold her 33 inch tires. Those small danas were not meant for off road use and are cheap on Craigslist. The only dana 30/35s that hold any value are the 4cyl 4:10s. The others which would work fine for you can be purchased at scrap prices.

Use a 4x4 gear calculator (google it) to put in your tire size and transmission gear ratios and play with what gear ratio (3:73,3:55 etc) that gets you to your sweet spot. 80 mph at 2900 rpms would be ideal for me! Yours may vary.

Just keep in mind some if these vehicles have disk rear axles, if you go from drums to disks or disks to drums you'll nees to change your prop valve and possibly residual valve too(10 lbs for drums and max of 2psi on disks, many times none are used on disks) adjustable prop valve is nice for dialing her in. Front brakes lock up before rear.


My 79 transam had 2:41 gears to cruise 90 mph with a th350. It would max out the 130mph speedometer and not be turning 5000 rpms.
 

superhl

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PickleRick,
Thanks for the info...It's a 2 wheel drive. I have never re-geared a rear end. Any videos on how to complete the modification? Probably going to difficult finding the an Isuzu diff with gear ratio needed for this model Isuzu: 1992 Isuzu pup LS extended cab. Originally had 2.6l engine. I've seen several Isuzu rodeos in the local junk yard but from what I've read, they will not fit without modification. You make is sound easy. Once I determine what ratio I need, I will give it a shot. May start this weekend. Currently giving it a new paint job.
 

PickleRick

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05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
A quick google search revealed a good bit of info on isuzu pup axle swap, especially among the 4x4 guys. The Isuzu pup, amigo and trooper all used very underrated and strong axles however i dont think they made a sub 4.10 gear ratio axle.

There are many YouTube videos on refearing a gm 10 bolt axle. I did my 79 transam back in the 90s, went from 2.41 to 3.73. Back then i didnt have the internet. It wasnt super difficult. I had my father help me. With todays YouTube videos it would have been easier. You still need special tools that you cannot rent from advanced that i know of.

You'd be looking at 2 to 300 for the ring and pinion and another 50 to 175 for a spacer/shim or shim/bearing kit

Id avoid the cheap china knock off ring amd pinions, stick with name brands or something with a well known reputation.

Your axle is probably around 56 to 58 inches from side to side so a donor camaro/firebird may also fit your need.

I don't know your size tires or your final drive ratio in your transmission so i don't know what rario to recommend.

If you have drum rear axles and stick with a replacement from wheel axle youll have no other mods to make to the system asside from adapting the brake hoses/lines.

An axle swap isn't difficult. Going from ifs to straight axle is, so is going from 2wd to 4wd. Compared to the wiring job on your diesel swap fabing up a replacement axle is a walk in the park.
 
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superhl

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I'm sorry. I meant any videos on replacing the Isuzu 4:30 differential with a different axle that needs some modifications. I don't want to re-gear if I can avoid that. If I can get an idea of what I need, I am going to salvage yard tomorrow.

The transmission is from a Chevrolet S10 V6 4.3L GM NV3500 NV 3500 Transmission 5 Speed
Tires are 15 inch. 6 lug
Thanks for your help!
 

PickleRick

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What is your tire size? A 15 inch rim can fit anything from a low pro to a 37+ inch tire.


About any leaf spring rear axle swap is similar. Most important part is the axle flange angle

Probably a hundred on yj axle swaps.
 

PickleRick

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Are you 100% its a 4:20? I have never heard of that, a 4:10, 4:56.

Your 5th gear is .73, 26 inch diameter tires. Even at 75mph the year calculators estimate 2900 rpms. Assuming its a 4:20. I believe they had a 4:30.
 
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superhl

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That was a typo. I can't locate any markings that verify but from what I researched on the Isuzu forum, it is a 4:30.
 

PickleRick

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4:30 sounds better.

What the max speed you travel? 4:10 i don't think would be a big enough change, maybe a couple hundred rpm difference. 3.73 would. Get you a bigger drop without killing your speed off the line. A 3:55 would be for someone to drives 80 to 90 mph very frequently and doesn't mind losing low end performance. The bhw is preppy but not until 1900 rpms

4:10 is a gear ratio that came on I think v6 2wd pups and maybe amigos. If you could fit larger, maybe 30 inch diameter tires it would be the easiest swap. You'd need to verify this as Its just what i read on a pirare4x4 forum.
 

superhl

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75 MPH would be the max. What is largest diameter tire I could fit on these 15 inch rims? I am going to try and find a 4:10 and up the size of tires. I have plenty of room for a larger diameter fffffffffI think some of the chevy blazers run the 3.73
 
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PickleRick

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That depends on your clearance in the fender wells

Id start with a set of used 10 dollar tires. Try for 30 inch tires first. I think 295 in metric. If they rub you're out 20 bucks. Im not good with metric to sae tire diameter conversions
 

PickleRick

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Measure Wms to wms. Thats wheel mounting surface. You want them to be @ the same. Adapting the brake hoses is not difficult just need to buy or rent a flair tool kit and buy a tube cutter.

Try to grab the drive shaft from the donor as well. If the universal joint is in good shape you can use it and the flange. You're runnung an s10 tranny so you may just need to lengthen or shorten the s10 drive shaft if you find one out of a nv3500 s10. It's a slip yolk i believe so it may fit without mods if you find one similar to your truck (short bed/ regular cab or extended cab/long bed etc combo) just make sure you have some slip yolk exposed at resting height so if you load down the bed with weight you don't run out of travel and force the tranny and rear end together.


An s10 10 bolt would be plenty strong and plentiful. Some even had lsd i believe. Not the hallucinogen.

Your parking brake cable may need to modified. I am a sailor so i have a crimp tool and zinc crimps on hand as well as braided cable if i need it longer, you may need to rent or borrow one, crimps can be purchased at home depot or lowes assuming you have a cable actuating your parking brake.

So long as you are gong from drum to drum or disk to disk brakes no mods should be needed to your master cyl/prop valve.
 
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