ALH into 1992 2wd Toyota dually

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
I'm trying to slide a ALH with a R150 into a 1992 Toyota dually chassis.

I can't see where anyone has put a ALH into a 2wd. I can find ALH's into 4x4's and AHU's into 2wd but not any 2wd/ALH combos.

So, here's why I'm here; the ALH's oil pan is hitting some of our steering components.


If you'd like to see the misalignment, there are more pics over on imgur http://imgur.com/a/rH28H. The trans is sitting on the frame crossmember in the pics but it really only has approximately 1/4" clearance when in it's proper location.

I'm wondering what my options are. The oil pump for the ALH is right up front - no way to notch the pan.

So, I thought about getting a 'drop' pitman arm and idler arm (if available) and move the steering components down.
If I move my steering components (steering cross link and stabilizer) down, how will that effect my steering geometry. If I can't find a drop pitman arm and idler arm, I might have to fabricate my own = open to tips.

There are drop pitmans for 4x4's but they are not the same part as the 2wd (balljoint is made into the 4x4 whereas the 2wd simply has a hole that receives the balljoint that's in the cross link).

Any help would be appreciated.

Pic of x-cab going onto dually chassis. Toyota never made a x-cab dually but I wanted a little more cab space so...
 
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Rockwell

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Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
sweet build. Im doing an AHU into a 2wd pickup. Like you said, its easier with the AHU, here is how much I had to notch:



I couldn't find a drop pitman arm, I looked pretty hard. In my research it looked like the tie rod for manual steering hung a little lower but I never verified that because it never would have hung low enough. I hope you find a solution, I think that is going to be a sweet swap. My only suggestion is to maybe find an AHU and notch it, and use the ALH IP, turbo and electronics. This would also solve some firewall clearance concerns.
:cool:
 
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frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Rockwell, I've been stalking you for a spell (& jimbote). :)

Your truck looks so good. Your wiring work is top notch too.

I appreciate the high res pic. I've seen your massive notch in your post. Since this motor is completely built (Whitbread) and ready to roll, I'd sure love it if I could just run it.

I don't have a AHU at my disposal currently. We'll see if that's the way we have to go. Hopefully, there's another work around <fingers crossed>
 

Rockwell

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
Sorry, I cant resize it for some reason.
You could do something like this (from Total Chaos) with more of a drop and stock parts:

 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
I've seen their parts and it did get the creative juices flowing.

If I do just a drop 'section' of the centerlink, that should keep the geometry all factory. The only thing I can see for this in the negative column is making sure no strength gets compromised and I would, of course, have to verify that when the steering was turned to full lock, it didn't get into the side of the oil pan.

As it stands right now, I'm going to remove all the steering components and see if we can get the engine in properly. If we can, I'll have to figure out the steering down the road.

Thanks for all of your input.

Stole this pic from pirate4x4. It's different pitman arms. From top to bottom: 2wd pickup, FJ80, 4wd pickup. So, the FJ80 will lower it just a bit. However, it won't be enough and I don't know what to do to get the idler arm down some to match.
 

Rockwell

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Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
I checked lock to lock on my truck, plenty of clearance to oil pan.
 

Heathd

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Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Location
Illinois
TDI
2001 ALH/1995 Tacoma
I have an alh in a 1995 Toyota 2wd with no oil pan modification using an acme adaptor. Everything is moved 2.75" forward. It is a manual steering truck. The hood does shut with the factory intake manifold and an eBay "race pipe". It's close. Worst case, I may have to cut and angle the race pipe slightly downward and towards the passenger side then weld it for extra space. Pan is around 3/4" above the rack. I know your aware of this but I thought I'd throw it out there in summary.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
I have an alh in a 1995 Toyota 2wd with no oil pan modification using an acme adaptor. Everything is moved 2.75" forward. It is a manual steering truck. The hood does shut with the factory intake manifold and an eBay "race pipe". It's close. Worst case, I may have to cut and angle the race pipe slightly downward and towards the passenger side then weld it for extra space. Pan is around 3/4" above the rack. I know your aware of this but I thought I'd throw it out there in summary.
keep in mind the op's truck has traditional steering box with steering linkage that is forward of the crossmember so the issues he is dealing with are a little different than your tacoma which has a much more compact steering rack rearward of the crossmember
 

papasmurf

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Jul 15, 2014
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Orlando
TDI
1997 jetta tdi, 2004 passat sedan tdi, 2005 passat wagon tdi , 2005 passat sedan tdi
Did this project go any further? I wanna see that body on the frame!
 

papasmurf

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Jul 15, 2014
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Orlando
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1997 jetta tdi, 2004 passat sedan tdi, 2005 passat wagon tdi , 2005 passat sedan tdi
Did you get any further with this?
 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
This has been the worlds slowest project. Now, it's officially winter so, I doubt if a whole heck of a lot gets done for the next little bit.

But, since prompted:
- I fabbed up the drop center link (3.5" drop)
- the cab is on and all good
- the driveshaft was lengthened (auto trans has shorter driveshaft)
- stock intake and small race pipe removed in favor of a PD150 style intake and 57mm race pipe
- intercooler received
- all tubing, v-bands, reducers, etc for exhaust have been received
- my current projects are making the 3" stainless steel exhaust & cutting up the coolant hard pipe under the injection pump (to point in a more favorable position and free up valuable space at the rear of the cylinder head.

Pics of dropped center link below. Look in the second picture and you can see the drop that I made for the steering stabilizer as well.

I had all the parts CNC laser cut (and in the case of the steering stabilizer part, CNC formed) if anyone is interested in dropping their own center link, let me know and I can see what I can get the parts shipped for.


 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Did this project go any further? I wanna see that body on the frame!
This truck hasn't seen the sun in years. I was too afraid to push it out with no way to steer it. It might roll forward out of the shop (caster) but, getting it back into the shop (uphill) would've been a bugger!

So, there are no good pics of the cab on the chassis. Furthermore, the 3VZ is sitting across the rear frame rails rather precariously. I'd have to remove it to roll the truck up over the weatherstrip hump.

Now that steering is complete, we will be able to move it more freely.

Just today I got one of the exhaust tubing parts I was waiting to try (double slip joint). So, maybe the exhaust will start moving forward again soon.

Here is one of the more recent shots as it sits now.

 

papasmurf

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Jul 15, 2014
Location
Orlando
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1997 jetta tdi, 2004 passat sedan tdi, 2005 passat wagon tdi , 2005 passat sedan tdi
Good deal. Is that a gtb1756? Are you de-pinning unused wires from the toyota ecu? I have a Mitchell on demand print outs that I'm looking over.
 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Good deal. Is that a gtb1756? Are you de-pinning unused wires from the toyota ecu? I have a Mitchell on demand print outs that I'm looking over.
Yeah, it's a 1756. I'm removing all unused wire. Toyota wiring that is not needed is on the ground on the passenger side of the truck (not visible in last pic), Toyota wiring that is needed is draped across the top of the cab (visible in pic), and the stock ALH wiring is on the ground on the drivers side of the truck (haven't started clipping on it yet) - the mess on the floor that is partly in the shot.

Also on the cab in the last pic are two cardboard mockups of intercoolers we did. The first one was a little small so, I searched the www some more and found a bigger one and made a cardboard version of it. It's the one I ended up buying.
 
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papasmurf

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Jul 15, 2014
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Orlando
TDI
1997 jetta tdi, 2004 passat sedan tdi, 2005 passat wagon tdi , 2005 passat sedan tdi
I finally have a factory print out of the toyota chassis cab wiring to pick through
 

mobetta

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Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
Twin Cities
TDI
01 Golf, 04 Jetta wagon
nice build

several years ago I helped a buddy squeeze an OM617 + AX15 into a Toyota one ton. slightly different build, but The Truck was/is a great "little truck"

Good Luck!
 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Cooling system ?'s



Looking at the diagram:

- I had to bob off the coolant hard pipe (under the IP) because it was hitting the bellhousing adapter and it took up valuable space at the rear of the head (where my 3" exhaust is routed)
- will our engine have sufficient coolant flow when the heater valve is closed? Or is a heater core bypass in order?
- can I simplify our cooling system further by simply capping the small nipple at the rear of the head (that originally ran over to the expansion tank) and doing away with the 4-way I've designed?

This build should make somewhere in the neighborhood of 220hp/340tq.

Our cooling system hardware is:

- beefy Griffin aluminum radiator (core dims: 2.68" x 17" x 15.5")
- 1250CFM 13" Spal puller fan
- a normal radiator cap going over to the stock Toyota coolant reservoir

Other data that may be useful:

- using a big front mount intercooler (core dims: 2.75" x 14.5" x 15")
- and (if it will fit), the Passat BHW heat exchanger
- no A/C at the moment but that is something I would like to have in the future
 
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Rockwell

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Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
It is my understanding that you can't just block off the heater core. You will need a bypass. Do you have a pic of your exhaust in that area? That's how I'm doing mine and would like to see how yours came out.
 

frambach

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Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
I'll grab a pic of the exhaust next trip out there. It looks bad to the bone!

I was thinking on the AHU's, you couldn't have the heater valve block the flow but with our design, we will still have flow.

In the schematic, you can see that we will still have flow coming down out of the back of the head. The question is will that provide enough flow to keep everything cool.

If I remember right, Jimbote said it would be OK. Just wanting to make sure I'm 100% clear to move forward with this design.

Also curious about the nipple at the back of the head.
 
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compu_85

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Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Location
La Conner, WA
TDI
... None :S
Also, looking at your diagram, I'm not sure the oil cooler is correct. I think the red and blue portions should be swapped (or a different red used after the cooler?)

-J
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
TDI Cooling System Schematic



1 - Expansion tank
2 - Intake manifold
3 - EGR cooler
4 - Connector
5 - Heater core
6 - Coolant center line
7 - ATF cooler (Vehicles with automatic transmission)
8 - Coolant hose, upper
9 - Coolant hose, lower
10 - Radiator
11 - Oil cooler
12 - Coolant pump/coolant thermostat
13 - Cylinder head/cylinder block


Cooling System Components



1 - Connector
2 - Coolant hose, upper
3 - To heater core
4 - From heater core
5 - To connector in coolant hose, upper
6 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (G62) Blue in color
7 - Bracket
8 - O-ring
9 - Connector (Always replace)
10 - Bolt: 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
11 - Coolant line
12 - To radiator, upper part
13 - O-ring (Always replace)
14 - To expansion tank, lower part
15 - Bolt - 15 Nm (11 ft lb)
16 - From radiator, lower part
17 - Coolant thermostat
18 - Oil cooler
19 - Coolant or Water-pump
20 - Cooler For EGR
21 - To expansion tank, upper


Radiator Fan Diagrams



1 - Radiator
2 - O-ring (Always replace)
3 - Coolant hose, upper
4 - Connector
5 - Retaining clip
6 - A/C Cut-out Thermal Switch -F163-
7 - From connector on cylinder head
8 - From connector on cylinder head/connector
9 - From ATF cooler (Only for vehicles with automatic transmission)
10 - Electrical connector / Color: black
11 - Cap: Test pressure 1.4 to 1.6 bar
12 - Bolt: tighten to 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
13 - Coolant expansion tank
14 - From connector to radiator for EGR/connector
15 - To cylinder head
16 - Fan shroud
17 - Right coolant fan -V35-
18 - Fan bracket
19 - Retaining clip
20 - Coolant fan -V7-
21 - Bracket
22 - Coolant hose, lower
23 - Electrical connector / Black, 3-pin connector
24 - Coolant Fan Control (FC) Thermal Switch -F18-
* Stage 1. 0N: 92 to 97 C
* Stage 1. OFF: 84 to 91 C
* Stage 2. ON: 99 to 105 C
* Stage 2. OFF: 91 to 98 C
25 - Bracket


ALH Coolant Water-pump



1. Idler Pully Bolt
2. Idler Pully
3. Pump Housing Bolt
4. Coolant Water-pump
5. O-ring seal


Thermostat 195*F.



1. Mounting Bolt
2. Flange
3. O-ring
4. Thermostat


FYI - For draining G-12 coolant out of the cooling system, open the cooling system drain thumb screw (pictured below).



http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=422399&postcount=2
 

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Excellent information here and I truly do appreciate it!

Since it can't be capped, do you think running into my 4-way at an angle (like I have it) will work? I'm thinking by joining it in at an angle, it will help it to flow and perform properly.

I think the oil cooler will be fine. In the stock application, the coolant is supplied by the coolant flange at the rear of the head. Since I don't have room for it back there, I'm coming away from that flange a little piece and Y-ing off to go to the cooler. I'm thinking the angle of the connection should provide plenty of coolant flow.

As far as swapping the red and blue at the heat exchanger, I don't think that's an issue either as I believe the it just needs flow. I don't think it matters if it flows from the top to the bottom or the bottom to the top (in my diagram). It just has to have coolant in and coolant out.

In stock ALH applications, the red from my diagram would go to the lower of the two ports on the heat exchanger (both, lower in the diagram and the lower nipple on the actual unit). I might swap them up just to be safe though.

Now, some of this is just me thinking out loud if anyone has input, please don't hesitate to put it out there!
 

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
green, I've seen and studied that thread. Thanks for the link. That is where I got the idea to draw mine out.

I've updated the schematic to have arrows indicating flow direction. I've not changed flow direction in anything that I've done. I've tried to work with the direction to maximize the effectiveness of my tie-ins.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
the four way you have is fine but if you can route the small nipples outlet to the highest point possible in the upper rad hose or radiator it will bleed air from the system better as that is it's purpose
 

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Thanks jimbote. Your input is much appreciated.

Rockwell, here is a pic of the exhaust. It's kind of hard to tell from the pic but it comes out of the turbo as a 2.5". I immediately bump it up to 3" and start going downward and toward the bellhousing. The reason for the 'dip' before going up and over the bell is to give a little more clearance on the coolant temp sensor wires and the hose I plan to send over to the heater core.


The other couple of exhaust pics can be found here:
http://imgur.com/a/GVYZI
 
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frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
Forgot to mention I put a double-slip-joint in just behind the coolant flange out of the head - near the end that will have the upper rad hose connect.

(click image to get a better look)


The reason for the double-slip is so the exhaust can be removed. The way I'm envisioning it is:
- take the 3" v-band loose down by the heat exchanger
- slip that small 90* section of tubing out on the driver's side
- go around to the passenger side and remove the 2.5" v-band at the turbo outlet
- ease the downpipe out from around the back of the head

While I love v-bands. There was not enough room to get a 3" v-band out behind the head. That's why I went with the double slip.
 
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