RTDI Part 2

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
After the 2 track days at Road Atlanta and seeing the amount of soot built up on the back of the car, I decided to look into ceramic coating my to make cleaning the car after each track day quite a bit easier. I initially thought about going with one of the "over the counter" spray solutions you do yourself. I did some research and wasn't overly impressed with what I read about most of them, so I called around and found a guy in our area that does ceramic coating.
Since we live in a tourism based area, the guy offers off season pricing compared to what he normally would charge in the spring, summer, and fall. After chatting with him about why I wanted my car coated, he came up with an option that should work great and is guaranteed for 3 years and since my car doesn't get driven in the winter or sit outside, the coating could last 4 or 5 years. :thumbup:

So if you're in the North-East Wisconsin area and wanna have your car ceramic coated with IGL products, look Christopher up. https://www.facebook.com/doorcountyautospa/
https://pinnacleautospa.net/
https://iglcoatingsusa.com/

Here are some before and after pics of my car.








Here are the after pics.










 

3L3M3NT

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Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
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04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
It's been a while since I updated my thread, but I've made some progress on the car over the past week to get the car ready for a HPDE at Road America tomorrow.

First thing that got taken care of was getting rid of the ugly yellowed headlights and to replace them with a set of LED headlights from VX Tuning. The reason I went with the LED over a set of HIDs is that on HIDs you have the rear cover protruding to accommodate for the projector and it interferes with the cold air intake on the car. Whereas the LED headlights have an almost factory like back cover.
Like so.


Here are a few other pictures of the headlights. Sadly we didn't take any pictures after the bumper was on because it took more time than we thought it would due to one of the upper bumper bolts seizing and having to be drilled out. :mad:






Then it was onto making sure the brakes were up to the task of the high speeds we'll see at Road America. As you can see from the brake pads, they wouldn't make it one lap, let alone (6) 20 minute sessions.








So I went with G-Loc brake pads. I'm going to be running their R12 up front and the R10 in the back. To help those out running the same/similar brake setup as me, the part numbers for the pads are GP460-R12 for the Racing Brake fronts and GP340-R10 for the stock rear caliper on the 04 R32.

Unfortunately no install pics, but I will comment on the poor fitment of the G-Loc brake pads. On all of the front pads the backing plate had to either be filed or a grinder taken to it to get it to fit properly. Otherwise they would have been to tight in the caliper and may not have worked 100% like they're supposed to. The backs weren't quite as bad, but some still needed filing to fit correctly in the caliper.

One thing we noticed at Road Atlanta was an oil slick running from under the car on Saturday when it rained all day. I didn't think much of it at the time with all of the soot that was stuck to the back of the car and possibility of some diesel getting spilled when filling the car up with some 5 gallon diesel jugs.

Then when we dropped the skid plate we noticed a decent amount of oil on the skid plate. My friend cleaned up the underside of the car, so we could determine where the oil was leaking from. My friend started the car and used the lift to get it up in the air, so we could inspect the underside of the car and low and behold, there was oil coming out of the return line for the turbo. Not really thinking much of it I ordered a new return line think it would bolt right up, only to realize that it was about 1/2" to long.
Sadly I didn't get any pictures showing that the factory return line was too long, but I did get a picture of the custom return line that's made from the ends of the old return line and the correct size and length of fuel line that should be able to withstand the temperature and the oil running through it. To hold everything together my friend ended up using universal CV boot clamps that he had laying around and so far so good on not having an oil leak at the return line.


If you've made this far my future plans are to tweak the Malone tune, since we had a few limp mode issues on track, probably due to the gasket that was installed incorrectly between the downpipe and turbine exit. Then down the line, it would be great to get the tubular control arms installed. I'm sure there will be other things that come up as the season goes on.
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Looking good Eric! You got all the good out of those brake pads (and maybe a little of the bad too!).

Good luck tomorrow and hope the rain holds off!
Thanks Matt! Yeah, I definitely got the most out of those brake pads and then like you mentioned, we may have gone a little to far with the fronts, since there was a very small groove on each caliper that luckily went away at the track when the new pads got bed in.

We had a great 1st session out on the track, the car ran amazing the brakes were fully bed in around lap 3 or 4 and man did they do their job at slowing us down. With the car being mostly a track car, I went with a set of G-Loc R12s in front and a set of R10s in the rear(per the suggestion of G-Loc). It was amazing how well the pads performed once they were bed in. I sure was glad that my car is equipped with harnesses, otherwise I would have been kissing the windshield.

Sadly after we pulled off after session one we noticed a slight exhaust leak coming from the manifold. I thought that with the stage 8 hardware installed and a fresh exhaust gasket installed that the exhaust leak wouldn't rear its' ugly head, but apparently it came back to ruin my track day. We tried going out for 2 more sessions, but it only got worse with each session, so I decided it was best to call it a day and live to fight another day.

So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix a leaking exhaust manifold, I'm all ears. I will say that I plan on taking the manifold to a machine shop to have them shave a couple thousandths off to ensure that the manifold is 100% flat and that it's not warped. I also plan on spraying the new exhaust gasket with some liquid copper gasket or try the paste that comes in a tube.

Anyway, here are some pictures from the track day and a few of my favorites from the Throttlestop that's in downtown Elkhart Lake that every car/motorcycle guy should visit if given the opportunity.











 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix a leaking exhaust manifold, I'm all ears. I will say that I plan on taking the manifold to a machine shop to have them shave a couple thousandths off to ensure that the manifold is 100% flat and that it's not warped. I also plan on spraying the new exhaust gasket with some liquid copper gasket or try the paste that comes in a tube.
fabricated manifolds can be pretty hard to seal up

the thin tubes heat up and expand a lot faster than the thick flange, and since the flange is all connected together it'll stay one length and bow (away from the head in the center) despite what those four M8 bolts on the two center ports have to say

On mine what finally got it to stop blowing out gaskets was to give it a little curve in the opposite direction to start with by hand filing the two outside ports down slightly. Now as it heats up, it goes flat.

ETA: Thinking on it more or it might have been the other way around, when belt-sanding the flange flat it would heat up quicker and bow outwards in the center, making a low spot there. Been a few years... Either way, took some filing on the outer ports (that weren't blowing out) to get the inner gaskets to be under proper tension.
 
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3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
fabricated manifolds can be pretty hard to seal up

the thin tubes heat up and expand a lot faster than the thick flange, and since the flange is all connected together it'll stay one length and bow (away from the head in the center) despite what those four M8 bolts on the two center ports have to say

On mine what finally got it to stop blowing out gaskets was to give it a little curve in the opposite direction to start with by hand filing the two outside ports down slightly. Now as it heats up, it goes flat.

ETA: Thinking on it more or it might have been the other way around, when belt-sanding the flange flat it would heat up quicker and bow outwards in the center, making a low spot there. Been a few years... Either way, took some filing on the outer ports (that weren't blowing out) to get the inner gaskets to be under proper tension.
Hmmm, that's a new one on me. Now I might have to make a post in the performance section to see what other people have or would suggest.

Thanks for the tip. :)
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
We figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from last Sunday when my friend helped drop the engine out of the car, so we could get better access at the turbo, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and downpipe. There's really no other way to get access to everything with how tight everything is in there with the bevel box and driveshaft for the AWD setup.

After the engine was out of the engine bay, we could see that the exhaust leak was coming from the connection between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Apparently the idiots at Trudell Performance used the same fiber style gasket as what was used in between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold and to make matters worse the bolts weren't very tight, so as soon as the gasket blew out, the turbo could rock back and forth on the exhaust manifold.

So this time, since I can be more involved with what replacement parts are going to be used, I have a really good feeling that I won't have to deal with anymore exhaust leaks. In case anyone out there ends up finding my thread here are the new metal gaskets that I will be using.
Audi GTB2260VK Gaskets
Metal Exhaust manifold gasket --->https://www.idparts.com/vw-exhaust-manifold-gasket-037253039d-p-984.html

While the exhaust manifold was out of the car we checked the manifold flange with a straight edge and found that it was slightly warped, so I was able to find a machine shop in Green Bay that was able to machine the flange completely flat again, so this should prevent any issues with the exhaust leaking out between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold.:D
I then sent the exhaust manifold out to get ceramic coated to hopefully help keep underhood temp down a little bit further and maybe it will help the turbo to spool sooner, since the shop that's doing the ceramic coating does the outside and the inside of exhaust manifolds.
The turbo is getting upgraded from the original GTB2260VK to a GTB2262VKLR to have a faster spooling turbo that will flow a little bit better on the top end.

Here are some pictures of the engine pulled out of the car.










I'll try and get some more pictures along the way when we start putting things back together.
 

3L3M3NT

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Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
It's now time to start putting things together now that we have 99.9% of the parts needed to re-install the exhaust manifold, turbo, and downpipe back onto the engine and get the engine where it belongs in the engine bay.

I decided while the engine was out that some improvements needed to be made. So I sent the turbo to http://www.turbo-upgrade.com/ to have them turn my GTB2260VK into a GTB2262VKLR with an 11 blade CW.


Unfortunately the exhaust studs got bent during shipping, but good thing it's an easy fix.


Laying out the parts that we're gonna need to start reassembling the turbo and exhaust manifold setup along with some Vibra Technics competition motor mounts laying in the background. https://www.vibra-technics.com/


Then to help reduce under hood temps, I sent out the exhaust manifold to be ceramic coated at https://www.performancecoatings.com/ after I had the flange that mates up to the cylinder head machined flat. It came out pretty darn nice looking and I'm hoping it performs as good as it looks.


Then for anyone out there looking for the water return line part number for the GTB2260VKLR, here it is.


I'm hoping that we can start putting things together this coming weekend and wrap it up in 2 weeks, so we can run some logs to adjust the tune for the GTB2262VKLR. I'll try and take some pictures as we go for those that are interested in hooking up the watercooling part of their turbo. :D
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
We made a little bit more progress this past week with figuring out how we're going to run the oil and water lines going to and from the turbo. We also figured out a way to support the turbo, but I don't have any pictures of our idea yet. That will come in the next update after the brace is built and installed.

I'll do my best to describe our line routing until we have it installed and can take pictures of what we're doing. We're waiting on the custom SS braided lines to come in on Thursday.

I purchased the Garrett GTB2260VKLR Water & Oil fitting kit from Darkside to mount onto the turbo. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/garrett-gtb2260vklr-water-oil-fittings.html
We marked which hole was which, since we kept on forgetting. :D


We're going to reuse the original oil feed that was used with the GTB2260VK.
Now the oil return line is a different story... with the turbo being so close to the block we would have a tough time using the supplied barb and the fitting that goes to the block, so we decided to think outside of the box and remove the oil return plug that screws into the block. Instead we're gonna run a M18x1.5 banjo bolt kit that has a 6AN fitting on the end.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Kit-M18x1-5-mm-to-6AN-Garrett-T04B-T04E-RB25-GT40-GT42-GT4508R/151835597639?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
On the turbo side we had to use an adapter that went from the 1/4" BSPT to a 6AN nipple and then we'll run a 10"(12"OAL) SS braided hose between the two with a nice gentle 180 bend.
I got that adapter and a few other from Titan Fittings, since they were usually the only ones that had what I needed, plus they were in SS which is always a plus in my book. Part number SS-9011-06-04 Then we're going to attach a 90 degree swivel to make the bend easier on the SS oil return line. 90 degree swivel Titan part number SS-6500-06-06

Onto the water cooling... for the coolant feed we're gonna take advantage of the EGR cooler fitting that's capped off at the moment.


We're gonna run a 5/8" hose to a 90 degree elbow that has 1/2 NPT on the other end.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079CD2TGR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and then we're gonna use a reducer to get that down to 4AN Titan Fittings part number SS-2405-04-08 We'll then connect a 26" (29"OAL) SS braided hose with 4AN on one end with a 20 degree angle 10mm banjo fitting on the other end. We had to have the hoses custom made at https://www.batinc.net/ and they were fantastic to work with. Similar to this hose that we found on Amazon AN-3 26" long SS braid hose ST X 20* banjo 3/8"-10M NC

With space being so tight between the turbine and compressor housings we decided to go with banjo bolts with a torx head on it versus a regular socket. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068EO968/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly the coolant return...putting it simply we're going to cut the end off of the supplied MB return pipe and silver solder on a barb. We'll then run a 3/8" ID hose to a T-fitting that's spliced into the coolant return line that goes to the coolant ball. This is the T-fitting we're going to use. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J41C6B4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To play it safe we're gonna install some DEI Heat Sheath over all of the lines to prevent them from getting to hot and/or melting. https://designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving/

Here's a few more pictures of our progress with the turbo for those that don't like to read. ;)


Hopefully with this gasket/ hi temp loctite/ and copper nuts an exhaust leak won't form here.
 

3L3M3NT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Made some more progress on the car today.

We got the Epic Euro Tuning tubular control arms installed today.








Then we got the Vibra Technics competition level motor mounts installed and it's a good thing we did because one of the motor mounts was broken.




Here's the broken motor mount.


And here's a short video of the broken motor mount: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LZ1BtBKQjo
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
I've blown the outer u shaped diecasting all to pieces
put a junkyard one together with a lot of window weld urethane and it's holding up fine now that it doesn't have enough airspace to wind up and hit the end of travel

just an option if the v-t mounts don't work out
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
I've blown the outer u shaped diecasting all to pieces
put a junkyard one together with a lot of window weld urethane and it's holding up fine now that it doesn't have enough airspace to wind up and hit the end of travel

just an option if the v-t mounts don't work out
Thanks for the suggestion. I've heard of people doing that with their factory motor mounts and having success. I'm really hoping though that these Vibra Technics motor mounts will do the trick and really lock the motor and transmission in place, so it shifts smoother and gets all the power to the ground. Plus I'm sure all of that slop in the factory motor mount didn't help my exhaust leak issue either. :(:mad:

I guess I'll find out in 3 weeks when the car gets used 2 days in a row at the Gridlife event at Road America on September 7th and 8th.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Looking good Eric!

Those control arms are interesting looking - there must be a suspension geometry reason that the angled part goes to the middle of the straight part instead of out closer to the ball joint?

There must be a lot of "feel" in those with no rubber bushings!
 

3L3M3NT

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Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Looking good Eric!

Those control arms are interesting looking - there must be a suspension geometry reason that the angled part goes to the middle of the straight part instead of out closer to the ball joint?

There must be a lot of "feel" in those with no rubber bushings!
Thanks Matt:D

I believe the control arms are like that so there's plenty of clearance to turn the wheels left and right, otherwise I think there would be a chance that the inside part of the wheel would hit the control arm at full lock.

Yeah, these arms will definitely be more responsive to input without any rubber in the system. I should be able to report back how the car feels with the new motor mounts and control arms in a couple of weeks.

If I was looking for even more responsive steering I could have gone one step further and purchased a tubular subframe as well. :eek:
https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_208_221&products_id=2215
 

3L3M3NT

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Jun 16, 2008
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Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
I finally have some pictures of how some of the lines are going to be run, plus we came up with an idea on how to support the turbo.

The oil return line going from the block to the 6AN fitting we had welded onto the adapter plate.


Here's the support bracket we came up with.




Also, we could use some help on figuring out where to place the actuator bracket after we had to clock the turbo so the actuator would clear the axle. We punched marks where it was before we moved it for reference.
Any help would be much appreciated in setting up the actuator before we install the engine would be a life saver.

Here's the advice the turbo builder provided: "The correct setting of the lenght of arm from actuator is : natural position (0,00) vnt full open . 0,62 vacuum full closed ( here you can also sett the stop screw )"


 

3L3M3NT

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Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Not sure what happened there...lol. Fixed. Not sure if it’s the same for VNT actuators as it is for your GTB turbo though.
Now the video seems a little bit more relevant to the topic at hand.:D

I'm just unsure now if we use the bracket to adjust how far the actuator travels (0 to ~18 inHg) or if we can use the stop screw to set how far the actuator travels?
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
Now the video seems a little bit more relevant to the topic at hand.:D
I'm just unsure now if we use the bracket to adjust how far the actuator travels (0 to ~18 inHg) or if we can use the stop screw to set how far the actuator travels?
don't mess with the lever travel stop screw

I think their reply was a bad translation talking about the stop nut on the actuator adjustment rod

you set the stop screw itself while watching EMP spikes on spoolup, totally independent of the vane actuator adjustment
 

dutch.mafia

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Jun 19, 2015
Location
Neenah, WI
TDI
2002 Golf
Now the video seems a little bit more relevant to the topic at hand.:D



I'm just unsure now if we use the bracket to adjust how far the actuator travels (0 to ~18 inHg) or if we can use the stop screw to set how far the actuator travels?


Mount your bracket, then use the threaded rod to adjust.
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Mount your bracket, then use the threaded rod to adjust.
After doing some reading that's what we came to the conclusion of for adjusting the actuator. It's a little bit confusing at first, but we got the handle on it now and we set the turbo tonight, so we can install the engine tomorrow and hopefully fire it up. :D
 

3L3M3NT

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Jun 16, 2008
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Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
We finally got all of the lines routed, heat shielding installed to prevent the lines from either melting or boiling the coolant or oil that is running through the lines.

With everything so tight in back, here's the solution we came up with for the oil return line (90* elbow) and the coolant feed line (banjo fitting using torx banjo bolt)




Here you can see the oil return line going to the block.


Here's what my friend was able to come up with for the coolant return line and if I don't say so myself, I think it looks pretty damn awesome!


The turbo inlet pipe hose kept slipping off of the compressor inlet, so here's the solution that my friend was able to implement to keep the hose in place. It's a good thing those posts are there and already threaded on the compressor housing. :cool:


Here's the turbo bracket installed. Hopefully between this and the new motor mounts it will keep the turbo from putting too much stress on the exhaust manifold.


The engine is back in the engine bay now, so hopefully we can fire it up this weekend.
 

3L3M3NT

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Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Things have been a little bit chaotic lately to get the car running for the track day. Anyway here are some updates on what has been going on with the RTDI.

Here's how the coolant return line for the turbo was teed in.


The initial start up of the car after turning the car over with the injector harness unplugged to get some oil flowing to the new turbo,
https://youtu.be/YoqQrhK3D0c

Here are some pictures from the Gridlife track day held at Road America.








I got to go for a riding in a friend's Scion FRS
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Here are some of my favorite cars from that weekend.






Unfortunately this car had a mechanical failure and hit the wall in turn 1 at 160 mph. Luckily all the safety equipment did it's job and the driver walked away with only some bumps and bruises.





I'll post up some onboard footage in a few days and sadly I'm having the worst luck this season with my car, since we had to pull in early on the 2nd to last session due to a mechanical failure. So now the head needs to be pulled to see what happened. :(
 

3L3M3NT

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Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Judging from the smoke, I'll guess a burned or broken piston. Your tune needs some serious work. That shameful level of over-fueling might be ok on the street, but run at full power for minutes at a time on a track, not so much...
You would be correct on your guess that a piston got burned a little bit and I completely agree that the tune needs some work done to it before I take it to the track again.

Unfortunately it was more than a head gasket like I was kind of hoping it would be, since that's an easy fix in the scheme of things. I took the car to a friend/mechanic in the Oshkosh area to see if he could get my car fixed up for me before our final track day of the season.
He sent me some pictures letting me know that cylinder 4 was damaged to the point that the cylinder couldn't be repaired.

Here's some pictures of the carnage:








Sadly whatever took out cylinder 4 went through the turbo causing the turbine wheel to get damaged, along with the turbine housing, CHRA, and vanes.






Need to dial back the tune some more to reduce the amount of soot being created. Also considering W/M to help lower EGTs and keep things clean that would normally have carbon build up on it.


Since the turbine housing needed to get replaced, I decided it was the perfect time to make the switch to a BMW turbine housing that uses V-bands for connecting the exhaust manifold to the turbo and the downpipe to the turbo. So if anyone is in the market for an Audi style tubular manifold for a GTB2260VK send me a pm.
I sent the turbo to Adam at Pioneering Performance to rebuild it for me with a new CHRA, turbine housing, and to help with EGTs he installed one of his lightweight GTB23 turbine wheels and was luckily able to reuse the 62mm compressor wheel, so I now have a GTB2362VKLR.
I was thoroughly impressed with Adam's customer service every step of the way. I wouldn't hesitate to send him a turbo in the future should it need repair(hopefully not for a little while though lol) for anything turbo related. Otherwise check out his cast manifold turbos that look like a great upgrade for anyone looking for some extra oomph.:)
 

3L3M3NT

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Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
Here's the new turbo setup and manifold.










I was able to find a replacement BHW engine just outside of the Twin Cities and was able to have a friend pick it up and drop it off at my buddies place near Oshkosh. This time I'll be sending the pistons, turbine housing, and manifold out to get ceramic coated to hopefully help manage the heat a bit better.

I'll post another update when the parts are back from ceramic coating and are getting ready for install.

I posted this in the W/M thread, but I figure I might as well post this in my thread and see if people wanna weigh in on installing W/M on my car.

I'm considering adding Water/Meth to my car to keep the EGTs in check. I primarily use the car for HPDE(track days) and would like to keep the EGTs to around 1500F, since they currently push into the 1600+ range on the straightaways. I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Here are some of the options I've found. Ranked in the order of 1st choice to last choice.
https://cppdiesel.com/snow-45006-power-max-vw-tdi-dieselwater-methanol-injection/
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/universal/520-dvc-30-stage-2a.html#/carburator_spacer_upgrade-no_thanks/solenoid_upgrade-yes/stainless_steel_line_upgrade-yes_black_ends/tank_and_float_switch-2_25_gallon_race_tank_black_lid
https://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-063-hfs3-v3-1-system-a-truly-progressive-system-utilising-pwm-valve/?setCurrencyId=2

Thanks for taking the time help me figure out what my best option is.
 
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