Where to buy *part* of an injection pump?

cha$e

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2001
Location
US
TDI
2010 Jetta
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KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
Dunno about a source for parts, maybe DFIS in Oregon will sell you one. There is no key that positions that hub on the shaft so you will have to come up with a way to be sure it gets back on with the correct clocking.

I believe a dial gauge is used through the plug in the other end of the pump but what the measurement is I don't know. I suppose you could take that measurement with the pin in place before removing the hub.

I might be inclined to drill three new holes maybe two or three belt teeth clockwise from the existing holes, whatever would put the new one midway between the one at 9 o'clock in your pic and the slot. I doubt the missing piece would cause too much imbalance.

You changing the belt and associated parts after having the chunk of metal bouncing around in there?
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
It has to be reinstalled in exactly the right orientation. If I were you I would send that off to DFIS to be replaced.

Maybe you can talk to them and get a price just for replacing it.

I'm sure if you searched ebay or the classified forums here you could find a core IP cheap enough to buy to get that part.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
The very difficult part of redrilling the existing flange, and in place, is to be sure that the 3 new holes are at the correct diameter from the center of rotation and exactly 1/3 rotation away from each other. If you can do that and tap the holes correctly, then you are good to go.

Otherwise, IMO, your easiest and best solution is to cut your losses now and obtain a used injection pump. There's at least 1 on the parts for sale threads below.

The 3rd option is CoolAir's suggestion of seeing what DFIS will do for you. You might get a nice surprise, and they do good work.
 

v8volvo

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2004
Location
WA
TDI
2001 Jetta
DFIS could probably help you out with the part, though it may not be cheap. I would not be too terribly concerned about being able to get it installed correctly. If you are careful and understand what you are doing, you will be able to get it done without much trouble and without having to remove the pump from the car. The biggest challenge will be getting the flange pulled off of its taper-fit onto the pump shaft, now that the screw holes are stripped. Do not use any prying or hammering methods that could shock and damage pump internals. You will have to use a 3-jaw puller from the outside and hope that it successfully pulls the flange off rather than continue to break off pieces of it... However, once you do get it off, getting a new one installed will not be a horrible process.

Remember that TDIs are timed with a computer, and as such they actually don't depend on all the mechanical pieces being in exactly the correct orientation. You will want it to be very close, because if it is far off then using the pump locking pin at timing belt changes will leave you with insufficient adjustment range in the slotted holes in the pump drive sprocket for properly setting the timing... but as long as it is within a few hairs of the original placement, it will not be any trouble. I would mark the shaft and the existing hub carefully, then find someone (a garage or well-equipped friend) who has an impact tool to spin the 22mm nut off for you so you don't have to wrestle with it. Then pull the flange off, transfer its mark to your new flange, and install as exactly as you can. Be careful to ensure that the flange does not turn in relation to the shaft as you tighten the nut onto it; you may want to lubricate the contact surfaces between the nut and where it touches the flange to help keep everything in proper orientation.

Once you've got everything tight, re-check your marks for correct alignment. As long as they are extremely close as far as your eyeball can see, there is no need to have exact alignment via dial gauge in the back of the pump... just remember to properly set pump timing with VCDS after getting it running, and as long as you have done everything correctly, you will have no trouble getting it set right and running great. All the precision in the timing of these pumps comes from the adjustment you make of the pulley's position relative to the hub AFTER the car is running, not from the position of the hub relative to the shaft.
 
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v8volvo

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2004
Location
WA
TDI
2001 Jetta
Don't forget that you have to reset your cam timing as well when you are putting everything back together. Timing belt cannot be tensioned accurately without having broken the cam sprocket loose, and incorrect cam timing will make it run poorly.
 

Birdman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 7, 1999
Location
Near Hagerstown MD.
TDI
Jetta 2001 Died by Truck one snowy day. Jetta 2003
I do have an old pump setting here that was running when I removed it from a members car several years ago. He had said it was noisy but I heard nothing so I kept it as a core and for the IQ Adjuster which I want to keep. If you are interested in the rest for parts send me a PM.
 

procupine14

Veteran Member
Joined
May 20, 2010
Location
Kansas City, MO
TDI
2003 Beetle 5sp
Steelmb, my theory is that my stupid shortcut of using blue locktite on the other two holes (the stripped ones) failed, so this hole was doing all the work. Maybe the extra load just somehow ripped the chunk out? I don't know if that makes much sense - I mean, the thing does spin pretty fast but I don't know if there's that much torque/jerk on it to break the metal, even if the metal were aged 12 years.
Yeah I don't know that that would be an issue at all but you never know I suppose.
 

steelmb

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Location
MB
TDI
2003 Jetta Wagon
Thanks, guys, for all the feedback! I was sick for a while, so didn't check in during that time. Birdman, I'll send you a PM.

Steelmb, my theory is that my stupid shortcut of using blue locktite on the other two holes (the stripped ones) failed, so this hole was doing all the work. Maybe the extra load just somehow ripped the chunk out? I don't know if that makes much sense - I mean, the thing does spin pretty fast but I don't know if there's that much torque/jerk on it to break the metal, even if the metal were aged 12 years.
Ok I can see that breaking it. I imagine the timing belt lost all tension in the process. Did you have the head rebuilt?
 

steelmb

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Location
MB
TDI
2003 Jetta Wagon
Well if it went out of time and would not start you most likely have bent valves and damaged lifters. There is a lot of information and reading on here regarding broken timing belts which results in the same thing. There are others that will explain it better than I. I suggest you contact Franko6 on the boards here and get opinion. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
 

steelmb

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Location
MB
TDI
2003 Jetta Wagon
I'm thinking that if you were cranking it trying to start it that the damage has been done.
 
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