BRM injector deviation values

What's up guys, my dads 06 BRM is idling and running terrible/stalling. If it stalls the only way to start it is to pop start it and I don't know why. I logged some values with vagcom and noticed some discrepancies with the 4 cylinders. These values were done with the car hot and while driving. It seems the closer the numbers are to 0 with respect to being positive and negative the car will run slightly better. And the inverse is also true as the values for cylinder 1 ranged from -3.01 - (-1.23), cylinder 2 was +2.24 - 0.35, cylinder 3 was 2.99-0.73, and cylinder 4 was -2.52- +0.12. I understand this to be the ecu trying to compensate for ideling. Unfortunately the car won't start now and I can't log just block 013 on idle. Any suggestions on where to go from here?

anything over .6 is considered bad. what are the values at idle? you might want to check the timing if the car will not even start now. if that looks good it could be a problem with the wiring harness.

BS. My previous Mk5 PD had constant 1.3-1.5 positive on one injector and compensation on the rest. It had it from day one I got it (actually from day one I've noticed it), till I sold it 45k miles later. Fuel economy was not impressive (34 US MPG) but other people having same cars/engines complained about it too.

If the car is not starting, I'd suggest doing an inspection, then a compression test.

OP looks like you have either a severe worn camshaft or clogged injectors.
Does the car produce smoke with engine ON? What color is it? Black? White?

What is the torsion value?
Can you do a visual inspection on the cam?

Cam is likely toast very common. Less common in BRM is injector issues and 34 MPG Henrick there was something wrong with your MKV too. I get 42MPG all day deiving like a 16 year old girl. If i drive like an adult its about 50 mpg and my lift pump hasnt worked since ive owned it.

Carlos_TJ said:

OP looks like you have either a severe worn camshaft or clogged injectors.
Does the car produce smoke with engine ON? What color is it? Black? White?

What is the torsion value?
Can you do a visual inspection on the cam?

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Cam was replaced 50k miles ago and looks in good shape. Yes it does smoke black and a few times white when the hesitation begins. I also believe there is an issue with the actuator on the turbo as the car has over 350k. Would these symptoms be related somehow? I'm going to ohm the wires on the injector harness and rule that out. I can't give a value at idle because the car currently will not start.

Actuator is common issue aswell as turbo being toast. If fueling is normal and boost is off black smoke would be my thought. White smoke prob oil. What cam installed? With cam kit i assume..???

GreenLantern_TDI said:

Cam is likely toast very common. Less common in BRM is injector issues and 34 MPG Henrick there was something wrong with your MKV too. I get 42MPG all day deiving like a 16 year old girl. If i drive like an adult its about 50 mpg and my lift pump hasnt worked since ive owned it.

Click to expand...

How many miles your daily trip? How long does it take?

Mine was 6 miles, took 35-40 minutes.

35-40 minutes to drive 6 miles that sux. My drive is 35 miles and its usually 30-35 minutes.

And it sucks twice a day, 5 days a week....

BT3076 said:

Cam was replaced 50k miles ago and looks in good shape. Yes it does smoke black and a few times white when the hesitation begins. I also believe there is an issue with the actuator on the turbo as the car has over 350k. Would these symptoms be related somehow? I'm going to ohm the wires on the injector harness and rule that out. I can't give a value at idle because the car currently will not start.

Click to expand...

At idle the turbo produces barely any boost at all. However if during driving you experience hesitation/black smoke it is most likely a turbo issue (sticky mechanism /worn control ring etc) . You dont say if the turbo is original but at 350kmiles it might be tired.

As for your injector deviation issue, if your cam visually checks ok ( and no busted lifters) its time to go back to the injectors themselves. Your checking of the wire harness is a good idea.

Whats your torsion value once the car is running?
Do you still have the stock EGR? Is it clean( not covered in sludge preventing it from closing)?

Probably easiest way to find out if the no start condition is because of no fuel injected to a cylinder is to pull the glow plugs and crank. Should be visile pretty clear if all of them are getting fuel.

However, I think there might be some other (mechanical) issue and the injector value is just ECU trying to compensate that.