2005 Passat TDI oil leak

My 2005 Passat TDI has an oil leak and I will not be repairing it myself. I had the valve cover gasket replaced, and will have the "corners" of that checked, but my question is: So that I have a general idea of what is likely to be the issue, can anyone give me the "top three" or so places from which this BHW is likely to leak oil? I have 133,000 miles on it and it has a Diesel Geek skid plate on it, which I can't easily remove myself. In 3,000 miles I have put in 1.5 quarts, and before the leak it hardly used any oil. The spots on the ground are large. Top 3 anyone? ... and if anyone suggests the "tandem pump" can you tell me what that item does and what leaks on it? As always, thanks!! I surely appreciate it.

The Tandem Pump is the cam driven combination vacuum/fuel pump on the back of the head. The gasket between it and the head is probably the culprit. It is a PITA to replace and you should also replace the coolant tee below it as the seal for it has been compromised by the leaking oil.

Thanks! Does this look like what you would replace when replacing the Tandem Pump Gasket?

Tandem pump gasket: 038 145 215

Coolant Flange: 038 121 132 D
Coolant Flange Gasket/seal: I think O-ring comes in flange
Coolant Temperature Sensor: 059 919 501 A

Thermostat housing adapter: 038 121 121 B
Thermostat housing seal ring: 038 121 119 B
Thermostat: 044 121 113
Coupling O-Ring: N 907 653 01 (goes between adapter and radiator hose)

Yes, they are the correct part numbers, but the CTS also has a seal that you should replace and a plastic retaining clip that sometimes breaks so you might want to have one on hand. Also remember to only use G12 or G13 coolant.

Unless you are having an operating temp issue, there's no need to replace the t-stat as a part of the TP/Coolant Flange job. The t-stat is located on the driver's side of the block toward the front of the engine.

got it, thanks!

Just went through this myself yesterday. Took me about 5 hrs start to finish to replace the tandem pump gasket and coolant flange. I went ahead and did the thermostat and coolant sensor as I was having issues with loosing heat at low engine load. Perhaps someone else could comment as well, but in hind sight, I might of been better to take hot water hose and rinse down the engine area prior to tearing into it, as well as some engine degreaser. I didn't realize the extent of oil covered parts till I started digging in. Best of luck to those who tackle this. I hope your hands are smaller then mine.

The Cam Seal Was The Problem

Well, as it turns out, my oil leak is the cam seal. But, the dealer did the cam replacement in Sept. 2014, but did not replace the cam seal (it's not a listed part on my invoice). The Service Manager returns Monday to make the call on whether the dealer will cover the repair since the cam was replaced by them. I found out late Friday from a service employee that reports to the service manager. The cam seal is under $10. Does anyone have an opinion ... Should the cam seal have been replaced when the cam was replaced?

fastcar4re said:

...Should the cam seal have been replaced when the cam was replaced?

Click to expand...

Camshaft Seal replaced at no charge by dealer

Camshaft Seal replaced at no charge by dealer, since they left it out of the camshaft replacement job 13 months earlier.

they left it out all together ... Yah buddy .

I guess they figured it's unnecessary part . nothing better than an oily BHW

No sure how the hek they replaced the cam but no new seal, go figure. I used a rubber/neopreme instead on the new fangled teflon when I did my last one

I have to think they re-used the old one. If they left it out all together, oil would be pouring out.

Hi all. I'm in this same spot with my 2005 TDI BHW (207,000). Going to replace the cam seal, and TP gaskets/ coolant part, but was wondering where you all recommend I buy my parts from?

I wonder the quality of this tp. Could it be equal to that of a Bosch? It could come in pieces and probably be better than the LUK.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Vacuum-Pump-fits-for-Volkswagen-Beetle-Jetta-724807170/172948264020

Dealer.

There's no way that part is from anywhere other than China. Given a failure can dump fuel into the oil sump - do you want to take that risk?

For the coolant manifold - replace the whole manifold (not just the gasket) with a dealer sourced part - it is such a pain to get to, the extra money will be worth never having to do it again. Make sure you also replace the coolant temp sensor and seal at the same time.

No doubt it is China made but im also wondering if the Bosch i ordered for almost a hundred bucks more isn't also made in China. No doubt Bosch will have better quality control than say a Dorman product but not all things from China are junk and not all junk is from China.

I was more interested in seeing if anyone had any experience with it. It came up as an advertisement ebay you may be interested in this ebay item data mining ad

Hmmm, hard to say.

You are correct that not all junk originates from China.

I obtained an interior door handle set for a Mk4 a while back, expecting it to be of very sketchy quality. The existing handles were very worn, and the car was for my daughter, so I was OK with the risk.

Turns out I couldn't tell the difference between OEM and my Ebay china cheapies. Odds are they were coming out of the same factory - just at different times or through different doors.

However... Door handles are one thing (non-critical), a tandem pump is something else entirely. If it were for a BEW/BRM where the access is that much easier, I might try one, but on a BHW? OEM - I made the same choice when I replaced my Tandem pump 6 months back. No issues on mine at the time - just ten years and 400,000km of age.

I use lots of small engine carburetors. Pretty important part for a carbureted engine! I use China sourced ebay ones all the time as i have customers that wont pay 140 to 500 bucks for them. From generators to 2 cycle engines to honda/yamaha atvs.


90 percent of them work great. Have some nikki knock offs for Biggs and Stratton single cylinder engines that dont work worth a crap, all are lean. Most of the 2 cycle need carbs need tweaking, not good for most people but i tune them with no issue.

Its really a grab bag...most is good...some great...some very much junk.

If i have the time ill get one and test it. I can get them in and out in 20 min now

Understood - I have an old ECHO weedwhacker that needs a carb, and I'm likely going to try the china route.

That said, a bad result on a 2-stroke carb from China is that it won't start or gets fiddly on the high/low screw adjustments.

A bad result on a China Tandem pump for a BHW is fuel in the oil...

The worst possible bad result on any 2 cycle engine, it runs a little lean and burns it up! It's also probably good to point out I've had oem stihl, shindawia and Husqvarna carbs all needing adjustment right out of the box over the years. Most people would expect this from an ebay/Amazon carb but many wouldn't from oem. Most of these new carbs require specials adjustment screw drivers that dealers cannot sell due to risk of fine from the epa.

For kicks i ordered that cheap China one. It will be here Thursday i believe. I'll have a spare one in the trunk just in case. I drive nearly 70 miles a day during the week so i can give a pretty good review on it pretty quickly.

Not normally an item many would experiment with but i have 4 taged and insured vehicles plus free tow coverage from good sam. If i smell diesel or see smoke...shut her down and write a bad review

Wow, I'm new to this site and amassed at how quickly you all have helped to answer my post. I appreciate the advice! I'm interested to see if you do replace the TP gasket and how it works. I really want to change this out soon but definitely don't want diesel mixing with the oil. I guess I will call the dealership tomorrow and then to parts place inc and compare/ talk through it with both places. I'll let you know what happens! Thanks again

Amazed*