Can anyone identify this part that drained out during my oil change?

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
If anybody can identify the part that was stuck to the Magnetic Drain plug when I changed the oil in my 2006 TDI on June 7th, I sure would appreciate your input. It looks like a washer that came loose and was Broken into 5 pieces before it got to the oil pan. It is beside a wooden ruler in the pictures for reference it is 1" from Top to Bottom.
It may be a coincidence (But I doubt it is). On June 14th to a Dr's appt and the car was Running Great. When I started to drive back home the car ran fine until I got on the interstate, and that's when the Trouble started. As I accelerated it felt like the Actuator had quit working on the Turbo Charger. Little to No Boost at all, and the farther I traveled the Slower the car would go, and I was maybe 11 miles from home at the most. When I was less than 1 mile away from the House my Car only got up to 28 MPH going up an incline from a stop in a 1 mile stretch. Luckily I made it Home and I turned the car off then realized I should check for fault codes. When I started the car, it acted like the Battery was almost dead and barely turned over and started.
It showed P0234 Turbo Charger= Overboost Condition, and the same code P0234 Engine= Boost Pressure Regulation, Limit Exceeded, (Overboost Condition).
I noticed there was what looked like signs of fresh oil around the Oil Cap, so while it was Running I removed it and oil and air seemed to be Forced out, like it was choked off and it couldn't exhaust air from the Engine.
I found that the Corrugated Hose from the Filter was Not connected to the right side of the Manifold? I don't know if it could have been pushed off by pressure, or was removed and not put back at some point? It's Got a Pretty strong clamp that Holds it in place, but I don't know what to think at this point?
I connected the Hose and Deleted the fault codes and drove about 2 miles but didn't want to try the Turbo Charger.
Could this be from the Head and a Bad Cam Shaft Replacement or the Oil Pump and Chain Tensioner? I'm not going to start the car until I have a good idea of where it came from & what could be Damaged.
Any ideas would be Greatly appreciated..
Thanks for your Help
I can't find a way to attach a picture? I'll try it again in a couple of hours.
 
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Rembrant

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Oct 31, 2014
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
TDI
2013 Golf TDI DSG
If anybody can identify the part that was stuck to the Magnetic Drain plug when I changed the oil in my 2006 TDI on June 7th, I sure would appreciate your input. It looks like a washer that came loose and was Broken into 5 pieces before it got to the oil pan. It is beside a wooden ruler in the pictures for reference it is 1" from Top to Bottom.
Without seeing the picture, it sounds like the top of a lifter that had a hole worn in it, that broke off in pieces.
 

relumalutan

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Location
Michigan
TDI
06 Jetta TDI Special Edition
Same happened to me. Camshaft broke a hole through one of the lifters. Time to change the camshaft and the lifters. I recommend Frank06.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
My photo storage app isn't working with this iPhone, can I post the pictures some other way? It would be great if you all could see this piece that appears to be a Flat 1" Washer OD washer with marks in a circular radius outside of the center Drilled hole (From a Bolt Head that had spun before it came off), maybe? It is So flat and smooth like a Press Cut Washer, any idea's for getting the pictures uploaded?
 

bherman13

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2013
Location
Ohio
TDI
2006 BRM 5spd
You have to host the pictures to the internet. There are plenty of photo hosting sites popular nowadays (imgur, photobucket, etc). Then you use the URL they give you and surround it with
brackets. Clicking the Insert Image button above your textbox will automatically add the
 

Rembrant

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Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
TDI
2013 Golf TDI DSG
Definitely one of the camshaft lobes punched a hole through the lifter.
Yes sir, certainly is.

Could this be from the Head and a Bad Cam Shaft Replacement or the Oil Pump and Chain Tensioner? I'm not going to start the car until I have a good idea of where it came from & what could be Damaged.
Hey tooreal, have you had the camshaft and lifters replaced in this car already? What mileage is on the engine and camshaft if it was replaced?
 

bherman13

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Joined
Feb 26, 2013
Location
Ohio
TDI
2006 BRM 5spd
Definitely needs a camshaft replacement. He's lucky if it didn't do any other damage to the engine.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
I typed a Detailed reply throughout the day yesterday as I was Driving the Car and was finishing it up about 3:am when I fell asleep. I was surprised when I woke up to find everything that I had typed was Gone? I wish this had the auto save feature like some other forms have. If there is an Auto save feature that will save & restore anything that you have typed if you loose your internet connection, or Consciousness and fall asleep, where are the settings located?
Thank you All for your input about the part that washed out of my Oil Pan that I was so Concerned about. I had driven my Car to my friends Diesel Service Shop that's 100 Miles out of town. That was about 6 weeks ago, to get Him Check out the Cam Shaft & Lifters and get his opinion about it's Condition & then take it from there.
Long story short, the Cam Shaft is showing More wear from when it was installed about 2 years ago & 30K Miles later. But there wasn't enough wear on anything to justify it Needing to be replaced, but it Did need a New Valve Cover Gasket, I ordered One from idparts & put it on 2-3 weeks ago. Lobes are wearing Uneven but still within Margins of being safe to drive without risk of Damage to the engine.
(This was the Mechanic, my Friend that I just Happened to go to see a couple of weeks after I had the Cam Shaft replaced. He wanted to see what type of job the Mechanic in Town had done to the Car?
He pointed out the places that were Already showing signs of wear on the Cam Shaft/Bearings & Lobes, and Other spots that had metal pieces left from where the Old Lifters had Eaten into the Lobes and a Lot of Metal Shavings that had been left from the Original Cam Shaft. Lawrance cleaned up and adjusted what He could, and we Both took pictures of the Mess before putting the valve Cover back on the Car. That was just a few weeks after the Mechanic in Town, the Nashville area had Rebuilt the Head on my Car around 2 years ago.
I have just Rolled over to 180,K & the Head was rebuilt at around 156,K Miles, without having to go find the Invoices and Receipts.
[relumalutan]
And thank you for posting the 2 pictures that I Took of the piece of metal that came out of my Oil Pan.
I am Really surprised how Well the car is Running today, it threw the same fault code after I had been driving for 20 to 30 minutes. I cleared the fault code and drove it a Lot Farther than I thought that I would have, but it did Great! The Turbo Charger and Actuator worked Perfectly and Never gave me any trouble at all, no Over Boost or High Pressure or anything else that would indicate a problem of any kind.
I'm actually Shocked and expect the Turbo Charger to Stop working at any Moment Now!
The Piece was from a Lifter, You All NAILED it Without even a picture of the part that I was describing. That piece matches the Top of a Lifter that I finally found from the Previous Cam Shaft Swap.
That being said, I may have a Turbo Charger that's giving me intermittent problems. Because the car drove Great All Day yesterday and it had Plenty of Boost but Not to Much pressure to throw any Codes.
I removed the Valve Cover to make Sure that I didn't have a Bad Lifter, they all Looked Good.
My Concern Now is, why did that Piece just Now decide to Break Loose and work it's way down to the Bottom of the Engine into the Oil Pan? That was the Top of a Lifter from the Previous Cam Shaft Swap that was terrible work.
I am going to try to Post a picture with a New imgur app I installed. Thanks bherman13


 
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Rembrant

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
TDI
2013 Golf TDI DSG
I typed a Detailed reply throughout the day yesterday as I was Driving the Car and was finishing it up about 3:am when I fell asleep. I was surprised when I woke up to find everything that I had typed was Gone?
The forum must go into a backup sequence or something, because I know it does shut down every morning for 5-10 minutes at 4am...I'm in the Atlantic time zone, so that would be 3am EST.

My Concern Now is, why did that Piece just Now decide to Break Loose and work it's way down to the Bottom of the Engine into the Oil Pan? That was the Top of a Lifter from the Previous Cam Shaft Swap that was terrible work.
I am going to try to Post a picture with a New imgur app I installed. Thanks bherman13
How long since you had the oil pan drain plug out last?

If all of your lifters look fine now, and the broken pieces are from the previous/original cam, then I'd say they were already laying in the oil pan, and they finally worked their way to the drain plug magnet. Just hitting some bumps, or accelerating, etc...they'd wiggle around on the bottom of the pan until they hit the magnet.

I don't think those magnets were ever meant to pick up pieces of lifters...lol, but it's a good job it did.

I installed a magnetic plug in my BRM in the oil change I did just before the cam swap.
 

N.CaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
NorthBay San Francisco, CA
TDI
2005.5 Jetta
Wow do not think I will go to that shop again. Clearly they must of seen the bad lifters when they replaced the cam. That kind of metal in the engine I would think they would had pulled the oil pan to try to find it.

In regards to your over boost turbo problem. May want to look at the EGR cooler area when they go bad it causes some strange codes.

The hose you replaced to your air box is nothing but some warm air from a heat shield on the exhaust manifold to help the car warm up faster. Many people have trouble with the spring system in the air box which is to close once the car is warm. I doubt this will cause any problems.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
Still throwing Code P0234, Occasionally

Rembrant,
I changed the oil 3,500 miles before this oil change and Nothing came out of my Oil Pan at that time, so it must be left from the Previous Cam Shaft Swap (I Hope)? The Former Mechanic also replaced the Bearings & Lifters so it had to be from the Last Camshaft, bearings, lifter, water pump, Timing belt, tensioner, or basically a total Head Rebuild that went Really Bad at about 156,K miles. I'm now at 181,K miles and I took it back to the Shop and He said that He didn't have time to chit chat or look at my Car and discuss the work he had done to my Car? He didn't even Change the Oil and Filter in my Car after replacing a Warn out Camshaft that had 1 Lobe warn Off and another one not to far behind.
N.CaTDI,
I had thought of taking him to small claims court, but that's another Expense, and Now it's been over 2 years and I kept going back to His shop Hoping that He would stand behind his work? I was Apparently Wrong about him giving a Warranty on the work that He did on my Car? I won't be going back to His Shop ever again!
My car is acting up again and throwing the same fault code, but it's sporadic. My car will Run Great with No issues whatsoever.
Then it will lose power & the Actuator quits working and have No Boost, and goes into Limp Mode and throws the same code as before = P0234 Turbo Charger= Overboost Condition, and the same code (P0234 Engine= Boost Pressure Regulation, Limit Exceeded, (Overboost Condition)
I will check out the EGR Cooler area more closely, I did find oil on the back Left side of the Engine so I will look closer.
I did find where the insulation stripped off of 2 wires (Fixed them) that go to Male Plug that goes into the small Oil tube that connects to the Rear Right Corner of the Valve Cover & Connects to the Fresh air Hose that comes from the Filter Box & into the Right side of the Turbo / Manifold.
The car ran Great after that & didn't act up at all Last Night. I'm going to try it out again today, but I'm worried about what may Happen today?
 

N.CaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
NorthBay San Francisco, CA
TDI
2005.5 Jetta
Mine would go into limp mode (I forgot the codes) and it turned out it was a cracked EGR cooler; It was just the plastic valve system which is on the top and covered with heat guard material that opens and closes the egr cooler flap depending on vacuum delivered to it. I believe that when the system requested the egr cooler to open it caused a vacuum leak that caused the Turbo actuator to act up and go into limp mode. Good luck you may also want to check you N75 valve which controls the the actuator.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
N.CaTDI,
Thanks for the advice about checking the EGR Cooler as I have found oil on the Black Plastic part but haven't been able to find how it's getting there? I checked the N75 Valve and it does operate the Actuator just fine (That surprised Me)! I removed the intake air Hose at the back of the Engine to get access to the Turbo Charger. It looks nice and clean in there, but I was Not able to get any Movement at all inside the Turbo :eek:?
Shouldn't it move freely (at least a little)? I drove it yesterday about 1-2 miles and it drove fine, stopped For 15 minutes and began my way back Home.
That's when it began to loose power again and Blowing out Black Smoke like a Coal Burner. I stopped 3 times to let it cool down before I got back Home. I've never had a Turbo Charger Go Out on me before, could that be what is giving me the intermittent and Now somewhat Consistent problem :eek:
When this 1st began and I found the Intake Air Hose was Off of the Turbo Intake, on the Right side of the Engine. I also found the Top Nut on the Actuator had come Loose and Spun it's way to the Top of the threaded Actuator adjusting Rod and was not Tightened down to Hold the Actuator in position. I may Not have that in the correct position, and it may be to far Down towards the end of the Rod!?. I just spun it down to where the Bottom nut was Holding the Turbo assembly and tightened it in place. Is there a Location that it's supposed to be set from the End of the Threaded Actuator Rod? As in inches from the End to get it close to the correct position? I have had it off before, but I had Marked the Position and that Mark is No Longer there. Could that be set to Far out of adjustment and causing this problem? There's about .75" of threaded Rod below the Bottom nut that has it locked in place.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thank You All for your Help, I appreciate it So Much
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
You said you aren't getting any movement at all in the turbo. Does that mean that it doesn't spin?

Adjustment on the rod is that it should start moving at 3-4 inches vacuum and hit the stop at 18 inches.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
No movement from the Turbo

You said you aren't getting any movement at all in the turbo. Does that mean that it doesn't spin?
Adjustment on the rod is that it should start moving at 3-4 inches vacuum and hit the stop at 18 inches.
Whitedog,
Yes that is Correct, No movement inside of the Turbo Charger. I went in from right side after removing the intake air Hose.
I checked the N75 Valve and it pulls a Vacuum with the Car started. Then with Vacuum Hose Pulled off of the Actuator (with the Car Running) I pushed the Vacuum Hose back on the Actuator and it moved UP about 1" and then adjusted itself and dropped down approximately 1/4" or .25" and stayed there.
That's probably to much travel with the Car started and the Engine idling, or No?
If I can use my vacuum pump and gauges to check the distance it travels from idle to wide open I'll Check the Travel Distance for Sure!
Thank You So Much for the Information, I appreciate it More than You can imagine :D
 

N.CaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
NorthBay San Francisco, CA
TDI
2005.5 Jetta
The turbo fins should spin freely. With the intake off you should be able to feel the compression fins and spin them. You should also be able to see if there is any play in the bearings.

If actuator is out of adjustment which it sounds like it is. You should use VCDS to see the range that it is adjusting boost. I think max is 250 or so. Search here for how to test and adjust. You could also try a zip tie mod just to see if by limiting the adjustment with a zip tie helps.

good luck
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
The turbo fins should spin freely. With the intake off you should be able to feel the compression fins and spin them. You should also be able to see if there is any play in the bearings.

If actuator is out of adjustment which it sounds like it is. You should use VCDS to see the range that it is adjusting boost. I think max is 250 or so. Search here for how to test and adjust. You could also try a zip tie mod just to see if by limiting the adjustment with a zip tie helps.

good luck
N.CaTDI,
Thank you for the Confirmation about the Turbo Charger, I could Not get Anything to move inside of the Turbo from the Right side of the Engine Compartment. I even took a small wooden Dowel Rod the size of a #2 Pencil to make absolutely Sure that I was Far Enough inside the Turbo Charger, but Still No Movement like in Fins turning or Spinning?
I am going to have to get the Vacuum Pump and Connect my Gauges to check the Actuator PSI & Travel Distance from 3 to 18 Lbs. I don't have a VCDS to check the Actuator PSI and Travel Distance with.
I've wanted to be buy a VCDS Cable and Hex key, but when I found out it only worked with XP (which I Liked and Miss), I backed out because that computer is Gone and I just finished putting a Mac together to use whenever I'm in the House. So I don't think that it would work with the Laptop I Now have? :eek:
I'm going to keep working on this Jetta so I can get it back on the Road!
Anybody know of a Good Qualified Diesel Mechanic inside of Nashville, Tennessee?
Thanks again for the Help everyone :D :)
 

vanbcguy

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Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
If you can't get the turbo to spin at all then there's no point messing with actuator adjustments.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
The Turbo Charger is Good! I Was Wrong about the Turbo being Bad.

Hello vanbcguy,
I have been working on the Car and I Feel Kinda Ya Know (Duh)! But the Turbo is actually Freely Turning. I Obviously didn't know what I was Doing when I checked it earlier today, I'm a Newbie to the Turbo Charger and I Totally Goofed Up with my Previous Turbo Charger Diagnosis :eek:
I am going to have to take the Actuator OFF of the Car to adjust the Top Nut, due to this Newbie Putting a Drop of Locktite on the threads :eek:! I really wish that I had Never done that? I would Heat it with a Torch, but I don't want to Damage the Actuator in the Process.
I will have to get it on Ramps tomorrow to remove the Panzer Plate and Plastic Engine Cover so I can get to the Bottom Actuator Nut & disassemble it from below.
I appreciate all of the Helpful advice, and I Thank You All for Helping me learn more about this Jetta that I Love so much!
 
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N.CaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
NorthBay San Francisco, CA
TDI
2005.5 Jetta
Sounds like you are moving along the path. I would try a zip tie mod just to see if this adjustment make it work better. If you then want to you can try to adjust the bottom nut. Much easier then what you are trying to do.

VCDS runs on Win 10 if that is what you are running. I would spend the money and get the cable before you try to adjust your VNT.
 

tooreal

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9 TDI, 5-speed Manual, package 1, DOM 10/06. Tinted windows, Rear Spoiler, Reflex Silver
Thanks for the information about the VCDS working on Windows 10 & the Zip Tie Mod.

Sounds like you are moving along the path. I would try a zip tie mod just to see if this adjustment make it work better. If you then want to you can try to adjust the bottom nut. Much easier then what you are trying to do.
VCDS runs on Win 10 if that is what you are running. I would spend the money and get the cable before you try to adjust your VNT.
N.CaTDI
I have a MacBook Pro that I just rebuilt, and that's what I have at the moment. But as cheap as Laptops are now I could just buy a Windows 10 to use with the VCDS and use it for my Car for Modifying anything that goes wrong with it from now on.
I adjusted the Vacuum Pressure as close to the numbers that Whitedog suggested, but had to set it to different pressures because I had Rebuilt the
Actuator from the inside Diaphragm to the 3/8" Silicon Tubing that drops down the threaded shaft of the Actuator, so I had to set it to higher pressures to get it to move to the Minimum and Maximum positions, but it works and Now doesn't give me any FAULT Codes at all. Except for the EGR which is possible that it has not reset due to not being driven the Amount of miles to get it to clear from the Memory, since it's been a Pending Code for several days?
So far everything is Normal for the Most part except that the Fuel Mileage has dropped to a New Low of 30 MPG.
I'm going to get together enough cash to go ahead and have the Custom Cam Kit installed along with the water pump, Timing Belt & Everything Else that is typically done to make an older diesel engine run at it's Best, and Run for as many Miles as possible...
Thank you All for your Help, it's been Very Much Appreciated!
 
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