'99 Audi A4Q/2.0TDI Conversion

TDIsyncro

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'99 Audi A4Q/2.0TDI Conversion - in Progress

OK guys, time to start my thread. I have been accumulating parts and info for around 4 months now.
I bought this car specifically to create a TDI powered AWD luxury car for my daily use. After research for about 2 months, I concluded it could be done and I did an intensive search to find a B5 Audi A4 in mint condition. I ended up finding the perfect unit in Vancouver, BC, Canada. No road salt. All dealer service records. Owned by a family guy and proffesional. 102,000km (63,000 miles)
My original plan was to drop an ALH into it, but ended up finding a BHW for a really good deal. After recieving the BHW, I realized I had stumbled into the perfect engine configuration for this swap. The Passat B5.5 and Audi B5 A4, being both longitudinal mount and sharing mainy parts are a perfect match. The deal sealer is the fact that it will be producing around the same factory hp as the 1.8T, but much more torque (155ft-lbs vs 300 ft-lbs). The A4 is also an amazingly compact car for the luxury it holds, lending it to good fuel economy and performance when combined with a diesel power train.
Project Specs:
Chassis: '99 Audi A4 Quattro. Sport Package. Factory S4 Interior Upgrade. 2.8V6 Gas, 112,000km
OEM Power: Edit -190HP/207ft-lbs Torque
OEM Transmssion Specs: 5 spd, 01A (DWM). 3.89:1 Differential Gears
1st - 3.5:1
2nd - 1.94:1
3rd - 1.3:1
4th - .94:1
5th - .789:1
Factory Rims & Tires - 225/16/50 ZR
Speed/RPM: 2650RPM @ 100KPH



Donor Power Train Specs:
Engine: 2005 Passat 2.0TDI (BHW), under 60,000 km (local wrecker)
OEM Power: 134hp/254 ft-lbs
ECU - EDC15P and 40 Pin Harness from Euro ARL Code (PD150). Custom tuning specs set for roughly [EDIT 175HP/320 ft-lbs ??] (Supplied and tuned by VWMikel)
Other Harness: 2002 ALH 1.9TDI 80 Pin Harness (local wrecker)



Euro Tranny Specs:
01A 5spd Variant (EEP), 3.89:1 Differential Gears, 70,000km, Supplied by Scott Dewitt
1st - 3.5:1
2nd - 1.94:1
3rd - 1.22:1
4th - .83:1
5th - .66:1
Estimated Speed/RPM: 2166 RPM @ 100KPH - optimum would be 1900 for this engine, but I get what I get.
Before I get to much further into this thread, I would just like to make special thanks to Rexking414, who has helped a lot in digging up information. Also would like to thank VWMikel for providing guidance on ECU/harness related issues, and Scott D. for sharing his knowledge on all things mechanical. I think I was picking Scott's brain for a month before I even bought my Audi, and four months before I bought any parts from him. :D
I am very busy with projects in my profession right now, however, it's time to start kicking this project into high gear, so I will update and discuss things as I go.
Project Status/Major Milestones:
'99 Audi Car Purchase - Dec 11, 2007
BHW Engine Purchase - Jan 06 2008
EDC15P & 40Pin Harness Purchase - Jan 31 2008
ALH Harness Purchase - April 22 2008
ECS Tunning - RS4/1.8T Adapter Flywheel and RS4 Clutch/Pressure Plate (ES - 5486) - May 8, 2008
1.8T A/C Pump, Front Cross Tube & Misc Purchased - April 16 2008
Been slowly working towards new Blance Shaft Chain, Chain Tensioner & T-Belt Kit - done
Spent 12 hours this weekend going through wire diagrams for AHA, ALH & ARL.
Created spread sheets for pin-outs.
Tagged ALH wiring.
Hooked up most of the ARL 40 pin harness to BHW engine.
Generated a list of harness issues to deal with. (which I will list below)
 
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TDIsyncro

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vwmikel said:
I think 160hp might be a bit of an underestimate for that tuning. :)
LOL Thats good too know. I have not bought a clutch/flywheel yet..so I guess I better get a 400ft-lb unit, hey? :D What do you think would be a closer estimate?
 

leicaman

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You are inspecting completely the oil pump chain dept, right? Replace parts that show signs of wear as you want to starve that as long as possible. You might want to contact metalnerd to see how far he is on his improved parts. At last contact its will be awhile for this.
 

TDIsyncro

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leicaman said:
You are inspecting completely the oil pump chain dept, right? Replace parts that show signs of wear as you want to starve that as long as possible. You might want to contact metalnerd to see how far he is on his improved parts. At last contact its will be awhile for this.
Yes, was considering removing the couterweights from the balance shaft assembly, but opted to leave it as is and just follow a tighter maintenance cycle. I am replacing balance shaft drive chain, chain tensioner assembly, oil pump hex drive and full T-Belt Kit. I have been in contact with Metalnerd. It is starting to not look good, timing wise. I may have to install my own custom made drive, as I plan on fully assembling the engine in 3 weeks for a test run and VAG-COM on the engine stand.

For those who do not know what we are talking about, the BHW seems to have a small percentage failure rate related to the balance shaft system. The system is set-up with a large driver sprocket on the crank, and a smaller driven sprocket on the balance shaft assembly. The chain is a lot smaller pitch than the standard ALH pump drive chain. The balance shaft assembly runs at 2x crank speed. The second balance shaft drives the oil pump with a 6mm hex drive shaft. Two problems - premature wear/failure of drive chain and failure of pump hex drive. The hex drive has a very shallow insertion in the balance shaft assembly. The fit tolerance between the two is also poor. There is enough clearance that the corners of the pump hex drive wear off because it can rotate so much in the mating hole. I will attach a couple pics of the assembly.

Also, a link to this discussion is here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=202297

I do not want to go any more in depth on this issue here, as it could easily take over this thread. So I hope that this post is as far as it gets here and all other discussion about this problem can go back to the link listed above.



This is a picture of the balance shaft assembly with the bottom housing removed. The Chian drive is top right. The oil pump is bottom right.






This is a picture of the pump hex drive wear after 38,000 miles. Still good to go for a while, but noticably worn.

 

vwmikel

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TDIsyncro said:
LOL Thats good too know. I have not bought a clutch/flywheel yet..so I guess I better get a 400ft-lb unit, hey? :D What do you think would be a closer estimate?
I don't think 400ft/lbs is really all that likely, it wasn't THAT aggressive :)
 

TDIsyncro

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vwmikel said:
I don't think 400ft/lbs is really all that likely, it wasn't THAT aggressive :)
LOL Yeah I know. I have looked at a variety of set-ups and every vendor has stages with different ft-lbs. Having a bit of trouble finding the right fit. Also want to go with a single mass flywheel. The 1.8T Longitudinal set-up is a 228mm, 15/16" 23 spline input. Spec has a close fit with the Stage2 or 2+. There seems to be a bit of controversy on this forum related to SPEC satisfaction, so I am not sure if that is the brand I want. IIRC, the SouthBend has limited selection: Stage 3 = 300 (too low), and , Stage 4 = 450 (as you mention, too high).

EDIT - Just found this flywheel. Based on Euro S4 OE adapted for 1.8T, All steel, fits any 2.7T clutch assembly (240mm).
Part ECS RA4 Flywheel or Stage 1 Clutch Conversion Kit. #EC5485 - $794.68

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd...model=&category=Drivetrain&subcategory=Clutch
 
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TDIsyncro

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mogly said:
Good luck with the swap TDISyncro. I'll be following along so please keep us posted.
Thanks. :) Decided on the clutch kit today and ordered it. Went with an ECS Tunning RS4 Flywheel adapted for 1.8T (240mm unit), c/w RS4 clutch/pressure plate. :D I went with the 1040 Steel flywheel option. What a nice set-up! Should be good for around 380 ft-lbs. Would of went with the stage 1, but that was only good for 300ft-lbs.

EDIT - I need to call these guys back, as there are now torque ratings on the website, the stage 1 is shown good for 382 ft-lbs, so I am going to downgrade to that before my order is shipped.

 
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TDIsyncro

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Made a choice on intercoolers today. Decided on a AWIC from frozenboost.com

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...=1034&osCsid=db53a3e698eca7a6377e246ca2ce8fc4



The 350HP kit, type 8 (inlet/outlet opposite ends). I will be turning the scroll on the turbo housing up, and modifying the new intercooler to have a 2" inlet on the bottom side. Then there will be 180deg turn from the outlet of the intercooler straight into the intake manifold. Now that is a direct path!! :D I will have to mount the MAP/IAT on the oulet of the intercooler or the intake manifold.

What do you guys think of this system?
 

TDIsyncro

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I have continued to consider my options on the BHW balance shaft situation. With my recent choice of a lightened 1.8T flywheel, the torsional vibrations would be worse, further stressing an already anemic chain drive. So I have decided to take a radical approach. :D

The BHW 2.0PD in North America shares the same pistons & connecting rods as the BGW in Europe. From what we can tell, it uses the same crank, other than the pump drive chain sprocket. The BHW has a crummy desinged balance shaft assembly, the BGW does not have a balance shaft assembly. With this information in hand, I have performed the first BHW lobectomy.




My balance shaft assembly is now a really cool and complicated oil pump drive.
 
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Rexking414

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Hey, that's pretty cool outside of the box thinking. I was thinking of a Lathe or something but this was probably alot easier! So did you buy a new hex shaft from VW or did you enlarge it to be a more snug fit?

Oh, where you able to figure out that issue with the front cross member to be able to get the BHW to fit?
 

TDIsyncro

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Rexking414 said:
Hey, that's pretty cool outside of the box thinking. I was thinking of a Lathe or something but this was probably alot easier! So did you buy a new hex shaft from VW or did you enlarge it to be a more snug fit?

Oh, where you able to figure out that issue with the front cross member to be able to get the BHW to fit?
thanks. I was hoping to get a Metalnerd hex shaft, but the timing did not seem to be working out, so I had ordered a VW shaft and am coating it with Swaintech PC-9 -.002"thk, that makes it .004" larger across the flats. This coating is rated in the range of 100,000 to 300,000psi compressive strength. I think that between the lobectomy and this coating, my problems may be solved.

As for the front cross member, I bought a used one from a Audi A4 1.8T, looks like it will be a good fit. I did not realize that this cross tube is also used as an intercooler pipe - not that I need that part off it now.
 

JungleDeath

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Murderer!!!!

:) I love it. Scott Dewitt must be a little jealous right now...

I can't wait to see this project through...subscribed.
 

TDIsyncro

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JungleDeath said:
:) I love it. Scott Dewitt must be a little jealous right now...
I can't wait to see this project through...subscribed.
LOL :) Audi's just hit my radar in the last year, so it's been a steep learning curve. Now that I own one, I can't beleive I did not look at them as a project 3-4 years ago. Scott's helped a lot with information on this project. I think he mentioned he has an Audi build going on right now too.
 

TDIsyncro

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glow plug issues

Need a bit of help on sorting out my glow plug issues. I read through the 50+ pages on GP 101, but did not find enough information to answer the glow plug issues I may have.
Does anybody know if the an '00 ARL PD150 uses 7V ceramic glow plugs or 12V old style? The ARL wire diagram shows a single J52 relay controlled by the ECU on pin 42. The circuit the relay controls comes from a single 50A fuse and feeds an old 2 wire harness set-up at the GP's.

There are several outcomes to the situation:

- the ARL is a 12V but does not like the ALH relay and throws CEL
- the ARL is a 12V and works with the ALH relay but does not work with the BHW 7V GP's
- the ARL is a 7V which means I need a BHW/BEW GP controller (for 180.00, does this have the voltage dropping built in, or is that a separate circuit?

possable outcomes:
- ARL is 12V, then I need the right GP Controller and 12V GP's to fit in BHW head. Will they physically fit? The ALH style is a bit shorter, and thicker at the tip than the ceramic ones.
- if 7V, I get the right controller and voltage dropping set-up and it all works great..except when I replace a GP and break the tip off in my engine. :p

With this said, I still think it is a 12V system because of the relay/wire harness used...If this is true, will the old style GP fit in the BHW/BRM/BEW head? Edit - I am speaking specifically about the tip here. The threads are 10x25 on 12V, and 10x30 on 7V, so a 12V will thread in, but will the tip bind because it does not step down?

The pic below shows BHW ceramic GP at top, and ALH GP at bottom.

 
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Scott_DeWitt

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TDIsyncro said:
LOL :) Audi's just hit my radar in the last year, so it's been a steep learning curve. Now that I own one, I can't beleive I did not look at them as a project 3-4 years ago. Scott's helped a lot with information on this project. I think he mentioned he has an Audi build going on right now too.
Yup as soon as I get caught up on the 6 speeds I've sold, I'll have a Euro spec 2000 A4 conversion I'll be writing up.
 

gizmocska

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2003 Passat AFN 1.9 tdi For Sale...
2.0 tdi in to A4 straight swap

Would this be an easyer swap if kept all original Passat tdi with the tiptronic tranny and all,if someone wants just plain 2wd,would that be a straith foward swap with no fabrication and wiring issues
 

TDIsyncro

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gizmocska said:
Would this be an easyer swap if kept all original Passat tdi with the tiptronic tranny and all,if someone wants just plain 2wd,would that be a straith foward swap with no fabrication and wiring issues
Less work..may be. But would it be worth the time and money vs just buying a 2004/2005 Passat TDI and putting the Audi A6 badges on it. :p
 

vwmikel

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I pulled out a glow plug for a picture:



I left it nice and big so you can see the details. :)

I just went and looked it up: Autohaus crosses that Bosch number to 80028 and the same thing comes up for the ALH so apparently they are the same. :D
 
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gizmocska

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So is it the A4 or A6 frame that identical and will bolt straight up the Passat 2.0 tdi subframe,I would preffer an A6 2.0tdi wagon rather than the A4 2.0 tdi.Which would be an easyer swap A4 or A6?Thanx for your help
 

TDIsyncro

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vwmikel said:
I pulled out a glow plug for a picture:

I left it nice and big so you can see the details. :)

I just went and looked it up: Autohaus crosses that Bosch number to 80028 and the same thing comes up for the ALH so apparently they are the same. :D
Oh man, thanks so much. :D That explains why 12V never fried your GP's. I wonder why there is so much difference in length between the BRM and the ALH/ARL GP. Do you think your GP tips are sitting back from the combustion chamber that much? Or do you think the head is machined differently than the BRM? Do you have a pic showing your GP's in the head?
 

TDIsyncro

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gizmocska said:
So is it the A4 or A6 frame that identical and will bolt straight up the Passat 2.0 tdi subframe,I would preffer an A6 2.0tdi wagon rather than the A4 2.0 tdi.Which would be an easyer swap A4 or A6?Thanx for your help
OK, you got me. I know the B5 Passat and the Audi A4 B5 share many componants. In vehicle size and weight, the A6 and Passat B5 seem more on par. I know the A6 comes with the 2.8V6 as an option in both 5spd and triptronic. I think the swap of a BHW with tranny would be very easy in an A6 FWD Triptronic. If Scott's back on here latter, he could give you more specifics. I am not sure why you would want the cost and work invloved with putting the TDI in an A6 FWD. Why not just by the Passat B5 TDI since it's already FWD, triptronic, just as luxurious, and about the same size? If you changed the rims, dropped it, and changed badges, must people would not even know it was not an Audi.
 

vwmikel

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TDIsyncro said:
Oh man, thanks so much. :D That explains why 12V never fried your GP's. I wonder why there is so much difference in length between the BRM and the ALH/ARL GP. Do you think your GP tips are sitting back from the combustion chamber that much? Or do you think the head is machined differently than the BRM? Do you have a pic showing your GP's in the head?
I highly doubt they fit in the head any different. The BRM head sitting on the bench even has the same casting part number on the front of it as the ARL head does.

I'm thinking they're longer to improve heat penetration into the combustion chambers for emissions reasons. That was the whole reason they went to the Ceramic glow plugs anyway.

Perhaps I'll thread them in and check the difference but I'm pretty sure you have nothing to worry about when switching to the older style glow plugs.
 

TDIsyncro

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vwmikel said:
I highly doubt they fit in the head any different. The BRM head sitting on the bench even has the same casting part number on the front of it as the ARL head does.

I'm thinking they're longer to improve heat penetration into the combustion chambers for emissions reasons. That was the whole reason they went to the Ceramic glow plugs anyway.

Perhaps I'll thread them in and check the difference but I'm pretty sure you have nothing to worry about when switching to the older style glow plugs.
That makes me VERY happy! I look forward to replacing my 7V ceramics with dependable technology. :D Again, thanks so much Mike.
 

vwmikel

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I just went and threaded them in. They both protrude into the combustion chamber just fine. The length is a bit misleading because with the angle that they're at it doesn't really make the plug protrude further down, rather across the combustion chamber.
 

TDIsyncro

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Scott_DeWitt said:
Yup as soon as I get caught up on the 6 speeds I've sold, I'll have a Euro spec 2000 A4 conversion I'll be writing up.
Scott, which engine are you going to use on that project?
 
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