Balance shaft delete. How to and part numbers

Alternator pulley is bad

Changed the pulley and the noise and belt vibration is gone!! Thanks oldpoopie!!

So, I guess the million dollar question now is what are the early signs of the balance shaft chain going bad? It seems like the last thing on this car that i haven't fixed yet.......Is it just a loose chain slapping around kinda sound???

Thanks once again for all the input

Details on installing new oil pump sprocket?

Whitbread said:

No, follow the pdf for geared bsm change, then on the install section, just install the different crank sprocket, tensioner, and oil pump. Tap the oil feed hole for the bsm to 1/8" npt, put on windage tray, and then back to pdf.

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Hi, apologies if I missed it when searching this thread for "sprocket" but does anyone have a good reference for the steps listed above? Or at least confirm that you wanna heat the new sprocket to 450F and slide it all the way back on crankshaft with lettering facing out?

mgoff5000 said:

Hi, apologies if I missed it when searching this thread for "sprocket" but does anyone have a good reference for the steps listed above? Or at least confirm that you wanna heat the new sprocket to 450F and slide it all the way back on crankshaft with lettering facing out?

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Just did the BSM delete on mine. Yes, heat it to 450F or slightly higher and slide it all the way back with lettering facing out.

Thanks suncoug. Did you have any other sources that you found helpful on this job? The delete-specific info is really scattered. I'd love to pull it all together in one post with pics but I'm probably not qualified to be the editor for that. I'm in over my head on this, but I'll keep chipping away at it step by step!

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/b5-2004-2005-vw-passat-tdi-forum-faq-diy-bhw-engine/

Check this out.

BTW, yes I agree, the information is far from complete but it makes more sense once you start the process with all the parts in front of you. I had my engine out. I am not sure who others tap and plug the oil hole, etc. with the engine in it... I took my time and actually the BSM delete part was one of the easier part of my project.

Yeah, I'm looking at that one too! Actually have both printed so I can make notes as I go. My head is currently spinning on the subframe lowering to get the pan off. That seems the hardest part to me right now. Engine out would be pretty nice.

mgoff5000 said:

Yeah, I'm looking at that one too! Actually have both printed so I can make notes as I go. My head is currently spinning on the subframe lowering to get the pan off. That seems the hardest part to me right now. Engine out would be pretty nice.

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Not hard if you have a good engine support. Hang the engine, then disconnect the subframe from the body and suspension

I put a jack under the transmission to keep it from hanging.

Windex said:

Not hard if you have a good engine support. Hang the engine, then disconnect the subframe from the body and suspension

I put a jack under the transmission to keep it from hanging.

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I've got an engine support and I'll add the jack under transmission.

For a novice though, this part is the most hazardous. I've read procedures here, Bentley and myturbodiesel and they are all different! Bentley has the removal of the engine mounts before tensioning the engine support which confuses the heck out of me because it's either wrong in a very dangerous way or I just don't understand how the assembly comes together. I mean, the engine is supported by the engine mount no?!

The engine mounts bolt into brackets which bolt to the vehicle body. Technically you don't need the support - you can remove the subframe by loosening that mount bracket and sliding the subframe to the rear without removing the engine mount brackets. the support bar is more of a safety requirement. That said, I would always use the support bracket given the weight of the engine.

Once you get under the car and look at things, you'll see.

Sure, I definitely took a look before posting. I wonder if the manual forgot the word "nut" after the words "remove lower engine mount". Pretty important omission!

I have the engine bar setup catching the two rear lifting points. I'll have some support underneath too, although I think I can access remaining oil pan bolts without being under the pan. (I got the two rear 5mm allen bolts out, as well at the nut/bolt to transmission.) With any luck I'll have the pan off today and then on to the fun "toaster oven in garage" step. My wife is gonna love that...

Sorry if this has already been answered but are these the same parts needed for the audi a4 blb engine bsm delete?? Thanks.

Alan29 said:

Sorry if this has already been answered but are these the same parts needed for the audi a4 blb engine bsm delete?? Thanks.

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The Audi a4 BLB engine is related to the Passat BHW, they use the same balance shaft module.

But according to these threads, the part numbers for the BHW bsm delete are the same for the BLB and BRE engine with a modification to the oil pickup tube.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=437516

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/balance-shaft-delete-kit.28345/


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In process installing the delete kit from Bora parts , the windage tray has me confused, only one bolt holds it on and the corner of the windage tray that sits above the oil port to be blocked off has a couple of 1/8 inch stand offs so it doesn't sit flush on the block. is that correct? Also is there a market for a wore out 2.0 TDI? had lots of blow by at 200k miles
Thanks
Kyle

You'll have to saw off the stand offs with a hack saw. Yes only one bolt.

Seems like you've still got some research to do. These questions are discussed in this thread and elsewhere. Hate to see you bolt it all up only to take it apart again when you find out you missed stuff.

This is going to be all over the board. I'm just typing stuff as I think about it. Just finished my BSM delete this weekend! Pretty easy job. Give yourself plenty of time, especially if you live in a small town and have to order everything online!! Took me a total of 3 weeks working at my own pace and awaiting parts/tools the majority of the time. I also ordered the timing belt kit (whole kit) from blauparts. I spent an extra $55 dollars for the "triple square" or 12 point bits that are needed to remove the BSM. Allen bits fit, but I wanted the full 12 point contact and not just 6 in fear of stripping them out. My motor mounts were not leaking so I didn't replace them.

I did support the crossmember with a jack the entire time. I didn't want all of that weight being supported by the front end linkages. I did have to cut the 11/32 drill bit down shorter and also bought a 90 degree drill attachment! That helped a lot because you will not be able to get a full sized drill in there and drill a straight hole. I didn't think to take pictures as I went along to help you guys out. I do think that adding the spring to the back of the windage tray is mandatory as there is only one bolt holding it on...dumb design! Um, that's all I can think about right now. If you have any questions, please ask as this can be a pretty intimidating job. Honestly the biggest PITA is removing the front carrier. I was not going to do this big of a job with it just moved out a few inches. I didn't even crack the A/C lines. I just swung it out of the way and let it rest of a few jack stands and propped it up with a movers dolly and bungee cords. I didn't think the job was hard, but more intimidating...I got lucky and my torsion value set itself to 0.5!

Here's a list of everything I replace:
BSM delete kit
Full timing belt kit
Transmission service kit (my tranny fluid was BLACK with 129,000 miles)
Radiator fan clutch
Alternator pulley
Lower radiator hose (because I broke it in removal. $95 mistake!!!!!! Get an OEM one if you replace this...DO NOT get one from autozone. The one I got there leaked like CRAZY!!!)
Thermostat and housing

After special tools, including VAG COM and Bentley manual ($500)/parts ($900)/fluids ($150) it was about a $1,600 job.

Ok so im just running around in circles, after reading...and reading, I read somewhere somebody avoiding drilling the oil passage and just tapping it the way it was, cannot find it now but i believe they mentioned 1.5 thread pitch....also wanting to know what tools i absolutely need for this, I have some ALH/BEW timing belt tools, but no counter crank bar...can i rent the tools for this bsm delete somehwere? ....really kicking myself for not doing it while I did my TC but I didn't have the money,

I just sold my daily hoping the Wagon was ready for daily and realize it isn't.....anybody guide me a bit for Specialty tools i'll need, I have triple square sockets....do I NEED the cam holding tool? i really tried to avoid posting as Ive been going overboard but damn is there so much to read i get backed up and forget everything...

Hit this guy up for the tools. Very professional and responsive.
.
s4phillips@sbcglobal.net

blazen71 said:

Hit this guy up for the tools. Very professional and responsive.
.
s4phillips@sbcglobal.net

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thank you very much for the quick response! I dunno how in the world I can come up with a thread on accident a few times and now nothing, in reference to the tapping the oil passage when doing the bsm delete, WITHOUT DRILLING. As ive read plenty of people having trouble with clearance in drilling....I do have that link bookmarked and open in about 7 different tabs haha read through much of it. just need the tools and i will be on my way to doing it. I don't want to drive it a mile without a delete....

I drilled the hole open for the tap. I don't recall the size but it is a pipe (NPT) thread. Tap it short and check the plug a few times so you don't go too deep with the tap.

blazen71 said:

I drilled the hole open for the tap. I don't recall the size but it is a pipe (NPT) thread. Tap it short and check the plug a few times so you don't go too deep with the tap.

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I need to worry about depth when tapping so i don't put a hole? I had thought people stated to tap extra deep to be sure. Still cant find the thread I want its driving me crazy, been stuck on this site for about 4 hrs now, you'd think I had my info by now haha....thank you though, I am very grateful for all responses.

b3tdi said:

just completed this bsm delete with perfect success.
vibration is minimal in my opinion on a auto car,

1/8npt tap fits the hole perfectly fyi, slow and steady tap all the through , no need to drill,

have yet to do any oil pressure tests, but the engine is quiet with no warning lights.

this swap out the door with timing belt and all the hoo ha $2200 retail.


big thanks to this thread!!!!!

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heres some of what i was mentioning....thank goodness just had to re read the thread lol
......also had this "The tapping of the hole was not that simple. The oil hole is 5/16 starting out which is normally what you use for an 1/8 inch pipe tap but I ended up using an 11/32 drill bit and drill it pretty far (about 2.5 inches) with an air drill in order to tap it far enough and have the plug be flush and avoid breaking the tap.
One of these socket tap adapters is needed as the regular tap tools won't clear (I got away with pounding a 1/2in drive 10mm socket on the end of the tap with an extension in a pinch) "

I just used an open end wrench to turn. Just have to be careful you go in straight!

awesome, can you confirm, will I need to drain my coolant if I don't removed front lock carrier completely? save me a trip to my storage unit if I don't have to drain the g12....and if i do have to drain coolant and some trans fluid about how much fluid?
thanks!

Can't confirm either. I have a manual trans. And I took the front off completely. Way easier to work on it!

After doing the timing belt i do not consider the cam holding tool 100% necessary but if you dont make your marks perfectly you're fawked. If it turns just 1 tooth you'll never get it to run right

It was less than 30 bucks on ebay...it's insurance, cheap at that. I still used the mark and count teeth method to do the timing belt swap just as i do on small engines and twin cyl ducati bikes.

Keep in mind i turn wrenches for a living, i have tools on hand a weekend warrior wouldn't have and an eye for detail that many don't. What works for me wont necessarily be the best method for another person.


For the record i drilled and tapped, do not use a cheap tap on this cast iron block. If it breaks you are screwed.

Yeah that makes sense, I have a bit of a knack for wrenching myself, I suppose i've done some professional work, for Supercross/Motocross stuff but thats a bit different. Renting all the right tools as im sure it will save me hours of time and potential backyard fabbing.....would a local hardware store carry the 3/8-16 Tap/bolt? thanks for the responses, im about to tear into it tomorrow when I have some time, everything (tools and delete kit) will also be ordered by tomorrow as well! exciting I just finished a TC what feels like a day ago...haha...one day maybe i'll learn to be less of a pain in the ass for future me...