Timing & injector Tools...

I finally found and bought a 96 Passat diesel wagon, and it needs some work. Where is the best place to pick up everything I'll need to change the timing belt and to adjust the injection pump timing, including parts and all the specialty tools that will make the job easier and least likely to mess up.

The only specialty tools needed would be VCDS and perhaps the spanner wrench for the tensioner.

The cam lock can be something like a door hinge and the IP lock can be a deep socket.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

The only specialty tools needed would be VCDS and perhaps the spanner wrench for the tensioner.

The cam lock can be something like a door hinge and the IP lock can be a deep socket.

-Todd

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Sounds good. Where's the best place to get the VCDS and the spanner wrench? Also, where should I look to get the best quality timing belt and tensioner?

If you want the tools in your collection then you can't go wrong with metalnerd's stuff, pretty sure that's where I picked up most of my VW tools. IDparts has some as well, you can tie up a bunch of cash in some of the specialty tools for these rigs.

I just bought this.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/222324927114?_mwBanner=1
Where do I buy the dial that goes with it for my engine?

Marty

mustangmarty said:

I just bought this.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/222324927114?_mwBanner=1
Where do I buy the dial that goes with it for my engine?
Marty

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There is no dial indicator, you need vagcom to set the timing correctly.

greenskeeper said:

There is no dial indicator, you need vagcom to set the timing correctly.

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Ok. So do I need to buy a laptop and some type of software and a cable? Or is there an easier way?

I'd suggest you send your un-needed dial gauge adapter back and instead buy the official service manual to start with.

From there you can read the full timing belt procedure... which includes a "tools needed" section.

If you're going to work on your own car you'll need the service manual many times... and it will pay for itself many many times over.

There's also a "A4 Timing Belt Replacement" pdf here on the forum that has all the steps, tools required, etc.

Vince Waldon said:

I'd suggest you send your un-needed dial gauge adapter back and instead buy the official service manual to start with.
From there you can read the full timing belt procedure... which includes a "tools needed" section.
If you're going to work on your own car you'll need the service manual many times... and it will pay for itself many many times over.
There's also a "A4 Timing Belt Replacement" pdf here on the forum that has all the steps, tools required, etc.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171990...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1150765433362&ul_noapp=true

Is this the service manual to get? Pretty expensive. But if it has the most info, then I'll get it.

That's it. If you want to save some money, there's a used set, too.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

That's it. If you want to save some money, there's a used set, too.

-Todd

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Bought the used one. Should have it in a week or two.

Here's the A4 Timing Belt Replacement pdf:

http://pics3.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

a4 ?

Vince Waldon said:

Here's the A4 Timing Belt Replacement pdf:

http://pics3.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

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He's got a b4 passat, not an a4.

ninedee_golf_tdi said:

He's got a b4 passat, not an a4.

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Good point!

Back to the service manual...

What's the best timing belt kit warranty I can get? 100,000 miles?

the timing belt on the A3/B4 is only rated at 60K. however you do not need to replace the water pump or some motor mount bolts on every belt change like the A4 so it is cheaper.

you need this kit (or equivalent parts from a reputable seller... do not use cheapo parts) http://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a3-ahub4-1z-p-1045.html

you can even go cheaper by skipping the serp belt, power steering belt and cam seal if they are in good shape... but most ppl just replace them because they are already all up in there. you cannot skip the valve cover gasket, because those all leak... i think its a factory option in order to lube the intake manifold... lol

as for tools, you can buy a good set for 100-150 or rent them from some vendors with a small deposit. buying them is still cheaper than paying the dealer to half-arse it.

if you do it all correct, mechanically speaking, it will start, run and drive just fine until you get it to someone with a VCDS and have them adjust timing to the optimal spot. it can wait a week or longer... no biggie.

heres the write-up on how to: https://www.tdiclub.com/articles/A3-TimingBelt/ HOWEVER i disagree about turning the engine to TDC with the cam sprocket... i believe it should always be done with the crank bolt instead (12pt 19mm)

ketchupshirt88 said:

heres the write-up on how to: https://www.tdiclub.com/articles/A3-TimingBelt/ HOWEVER i disagree about turning the engine to TDC with the cam sprocket... i believe it should always be done with the crank bolt instead (12pt 19mm)

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That write up doesn't show the vcds timing graph either. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html

ketchupshirt88 said:

the timing belt on the A3/B4 is only rated at 60K. however you do not need to replace the water pump or some motor mount bolts on every belt change like the A4 so it is cheaper.

you need this kit (or equivalent parts from a reputable seller... do not use cheapo parts) http://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a3-ahub4-1z-p-1045.html

you can even go cheaper by skipping the serp belt, power steering belt and cam seal if they are in good shape... but most ppl just replace them because they are already all up in there. you cannot skip the valve cover gasket, because those all leak... i think its a factory option in order to lube the intake manifold... lol

as for tools, you can buy a good set for 100-150 or rent them from some vendors with a small deposit. buying them is still cheaper than paying the dealer to half-arse it.

if you do it all correct, mechanically speaking, it will start, run and drive just fine until you get it to someone with a VCDS and have them adjust timing to the optimal spot. it can wait a week or longer... no biggie.

heres the write-up on how to: https://www.tdiclub.com/articles/A3-TimingBelt/ HOWEVER i disagree about turning the engine to TDC with the cam sprocket... i believe it should always be done with the crank bolt instead (12pt 19mm)

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I agree with much of what Ketchup says here but especially with the last sentence. You should never rotate the engine by using the camshaft sprocket. The crankshaft accepts a 19mm socket and is where you should be doing the turning.

In the grand scheme of things a 60k change interval is fine. If a person drives 15k miles per year that's every four years. I don't really see a problem with that. The TB on the AHU/1Z engine is extremely simple anyway, unlike the Mk4 where you have to suspend the engine and remove the pendulum mounting.

Steve

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21122-C

This looks like the most complete TB kit that I've found so far. Would this be one of the recommended parts sources? Or would y'all recommend another source kit that includes the water pump as well as other parts I might need such as replacement bolts. This will be my first tdi timing belt job and I wanna get it right.

no need to do the water pump unless it needs replacement. It's not driven by the TB as with newer TDIs

I purchased all service parts from metalmanparts.com FWIW

True, but I have no idea on the history of this vehicle and would rather do it all at once for peace of mind. That kit I just listed also has a promo code for 15% off which is handy. So unless anyone has any negative experiences with this kit, I may give it a try.

The parts included seem to be decent brands.

When I do a timing belt I usually change the belt, idler, tensioner and cam seal. Total cost is under $90.

-Todd

Metalmanparts had pretty much the same parts for only a few dollars more. Less the antifreeze. So after reading so many good things about them on here, I decided to get their parts. Once I've done it the first time, I'll most likely do just the belt, tensioner and idler next time.

That looks like a really good kit. If I were starting with an unknown engine I'd be going for that too most likely. It looks like it includes everything that's likely to be boogered up (tensioner stud, idler bolt, crank pulley allen bolts) which is nice. All the brands listed are good quality too.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

My opinion is that if you're the one doing the timing belt, then just wait on the water pump. I have had two new ones that were bad when there was nothing wrong with the old one.

Abacus said:

My opinion is that if you're the one doing the timing belt, then just wait on the water pump. I have had two new ones that were bad when there was nothing wrong with the old one.

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After thinking about it more, that's exactly what I've decided to do.

The water pump can also be replaced without touching the timing belt. I've never done it this way but others say it's easier. After doing 2 or 3 dozen timing belts, I find them pretty easy and don't think much about them.

Abacus said:

The water pump can also be replaced without touching the timing belt. I've never done it this way but others say it's easier. After doing 2 or 3 dozen timing belts, I find them pretty easy and don't think much about them.

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I'm in complete agreement with this approach.

Unless a water pump gave me some indication that it wasn't up to snuff I see no reason to replace early just because you're doing a TB. It adds to the time it takes to complete the TB and unless you're into replacing with OE water pump I would not take the gamble.

I'm less than impressed with some of the aftermarket water pumps out there, I had a new Gates WP leak from day one of install on the Mk3 and the fit was less than stellar to begin with. I think I had to grind a bit of the top edge to fit properly and not force the metal backing plate out and away from the block.

With the quality of these WP's kind of iffy I would prefer to do a WP as a singular event versus an accessory replacement of part of a larger job like a TB.

Steve

mustangmarty said:

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21122-C

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taking a quick second look, as i recall from first looking at it, comprehensive parts list, i cannt think of any other part/seal, etc work will require. easy bet many work lists wont take all these parts to finish TB work,change.

The only other thing I would recommend is a serpentine roller. I have had them fail without warning and leave me stranded. I never used to replace them with the serpentine belt but now do. If you can, get the Gates with the larger bearing rather than the cheap smaller bearing version.