ToothFaiery
Member
I had a boost problem. At first there was second or two delay in boost becoming a longer delay till boost totally lost. Codes thrown were P0243, 245 & 2425.
I replaced the N75 which appeared to be bad but that changed nothing. I checked the wiring and the N75 was only getting 0.75 volts on the positive. I checked more and the F10 fuse was blown. So, I replaced and the boost was back... no problem for about 24 hours then the boost suddenly left again. I replaced the F10 fuse again and boost lasted about five minutes. Codes had returned each time the fuse blew. I looked up the circuits for the F10 fuse it appears to be related to the N75, N18, and sensors like the G130, 131, 70 and 42. I pulled the plug on the N18, put in a new fuse and it blew so I figure it's not the N18, EGR Cooling Valve Control Circuit.
I had to order new fuses. I'm thinking to pull the plug on the N75 and see if the fuse blows. If it blows, Next steps may be to pull some of the sensors like the G130, 131, 70, and 42. I don't know whether the F10 fuse controls the actuator that moves the vanes on the turbo charger but maybe I'll try disconnecting that plug and see if a fuse still blows.
I'm slow on electrical circuits and don't know enough to run multimeter testing on the plugs or the actuators so I've been trying one fuse at a time. Of course, I could just plug in a 30 amp fuse and check for smoke from the hood when driving (NOT). ;-D
Any suggestions are much appreciated.
I replaced the N75 which appeared to be bad but that changed nothing. I checked the wiring and the N75 was only getting 0.75 volts on the positive. I checked more and the F10 fuse was blown. So, I replaced and the boost was back... no problem for about 24 hours then the boost suddenly left again. I replaced the F10 fuse again and boost lasted about five minutes. Codes had returned each time the fuse blew. I looked up the circuits for the F10 fuse it appears to be related to the N75, N18, and sensors like the G130, 131, 70 and 42. I pulled the plug on the N18, put in a new fuse and it blew so I figure it's not the N18, EGR Cooling Valve Control Circuit.
I had to order new fuses. I'm thinking to pull the plug on the N75 and see if the fuse blows. If it blows, Next steps may be to pull some of the sensors like the G130, 131, 70, and 42. I don't know whether the F10 fuse controls the actuator that moves the vanes on the turbo charger but maybe I'll try disconnecting that plug and see if a fuse still blows.
I'm slow on electrical circuits and don't know enough to run multimeter testing on the plugs or the actuators so I've been trying one fuse at a time. Of course, I could just plug in a 30 amp fuse and check for smoke from the hood when driving (NOT). ;-D
Any suggestions are much appreciated.