MK3 TDI, Won't Start but cranks and smokes

Just a few days ago it had trouble starting. I started it up one morning just fine then drove it to the store. Came out from the store and it took about 3-5 seconds of cranking till it turned over. Scared me and I posted on here and nobody replied. It ran fine once started.

I hadn't tried to start it up till yesterday and the thing won't turn over at all now. It cranks and puffs out a decent amount of smoke out the back but no go. So it's getting fuel since there's smoke, the timing belt is totally fine and taught, it's been in the 70's here in Florida so it should just start up no problem at all.

Anything you guys think I should check out to try and find the source of the problem?

Also, belt, headgasket, ARP Headstuds, injector pump, glow plugs and harness were all changed/replaced with in the last 10k miles. Totally stock engine, no mods at all. EGR valve is clean and works fine.

It won't turn over at all? But it cranks? Which is it?

Sounds like a fuel issue. Yes, it is getting something, but what? Drain a sample from the filter and check it out. It should look and smell like diesel, not gas, not water.

A few definitions:

• Key On: This is the position of the key when the engine is running.
• Start position: This is with the key turned to where the engine should be starting.
• Cranking (or turning over): This is when the engine is rotating.
• Start(ing) or fire(ing): This is when there is combustion and the engine is trying to run or is actually running.

Yes, rather simplistic, but it gets everyone on the same page.

WhitDog explained it. Cranking is exactly what I ment and said. It's turning.... cranking. It never starts. Cranking is rotating, but not starting.

As for the fuel, just emptied the fuel filter and it's all diesel.

Also noticed that the shudder valve thing is a MK4 invention and isn't present on MK3s. Also mention that the glow plug light comes on and goes off so I don't think it's the relay.

I'd check the injection pump timing. Something may have slipped. On an a3 roll engine to where injection pump lock pin goes in, then check tdc mark on flywheel under rubber plug. If IP lock pin hole is lined up, and tdc mark is off or not visible, timing slipped somehow.

Look in articles section for a3 timing belt replacement for photos on setting up timing.

I checked the tension on the belt and it's still really tight but tomorrow morning I'll check the timing to see if it's on. It would totally make sense if the timing was off because I know it's getting fuel. Forgot that it was that easy to check the the main timing.

I tried doing the vag-com thing today and forgot that the car had to be running and up to temp.

Sometimes you can get vag-com to read timing while the engine is cranking.

What color is the smoke?

Tony

It is common for the 1Z\AHU to slip time at the crankshaft gear. The keyway is pretty small and if there is any movement in the gear from it being removed for seal service or whatever, it can gently walk back and forth till you get driveability issues and ultimately no start conditions. First, verify your basic timing. This is much easier on your car than the later ones. If it is in time....it may still have a crank gear issue...thats the problem... they can move either way any time.

White smoke is unburnt(or rather slightly burnt) diesel. It can be injection timing and\or belt timing. It can also be air in the system, or even contamination issues. Since you checked the fuel filter... that is likely ok. Check the timing for kicks to see what it is.

also low compression from a tired out engine.

It's white smoke. I don't think compression is the problem because that'd be more of a gradual thing then happening in one day and it'd probably only be on one or two cylinders than just dieing on the whole engine.

Give me about an hour from now, I'll post up if the timing is off. If it is the crankshaft gear, I'm just going to have to pull it and re-align it on the crank then right? I have already had issues with the crank gear because of the PO. They kind of mangled up the keyway on the crank pulley so that it's more round than having any straight edges and then they over torqued the crank pulley bolt so that it was weak and then it twisted in half and the crank pulley came off while I was driving. One bent valve later, ARP headstuds, and a new headgasket I was back up and running.

Quick question, the PO had slightly screwed up my Keyway already, if I bought a MK4 crank and the crank timing gear pulley then could I just swap out for the MK4 crank? It's only been 6k miles since I delt with the whole pulley bolt thing.

Are you talking about the timing belt pulley or the serp/v-belt pulley?

The timing belt pulley on the crank is a one-time use bolt (TTY). If It was re-used and mangled, that's probably the cause of your issues. Needs to be replaced, retimed, and maybe inspect valve/piston contact.

Tony

You missed what I said. The PO over torqued the bolt and there for when I was driving it soon after I bought that car it snapped into two pieces. I bought a whole new crank pulley since mine was toast, pulley bolt, one valve since one got bent, new camshaft since the old one was torn up, ARP headstuds, new headgasket, etc.

Pics of the timing stuffs with a few notes added in. First 4 pics are of the flywheel/crank being at TDC and the IP not being lock, ghetto cam locking plate isn't exactly resting in there easily. Last 3 pics are of the cam locking plate sitting in the grove nice and easy along with the IP being locked into place. So it looks like the crank is out of time.

Time to take apart that crank nose hardware. Looks like it shifted. Fuel timing is retarded based on photos. That will cause a no-start.

I agree with Ski. Given the history of this motor, I'd double check the crank timing pulley.

Note for next time: It may require re-doing the t-belt 2-3x, but you can get the belt on w/ the IP & crank w/ no deviation. If I can find some of Paramedic's posts, I'll link them.

Tony

I have repaired that condition many times...so far...no issues. Make absolute certain that the gear is where it should be on the crank nose prior and during the torquing process....and then check again when done.

Yeah. It's off. The key on the timing sprocket is sheered. The PO screwed up the keyway on the crank itself before I ever got the car. I think the reason why they over torqued the crank pulley bolt is because they knew it was screwed up so they just tried to make it tighter to sell, more than likely. So... now as the next owner I am paying for repairs on it.

Since I don't want this crap to happen again in another 6k miles, I'm going to cut a new keyway into the crank so that there's no way it can move again, unless that keyway gets mangled like the stock one did.

It's either that or else get a new crank, which then i need new bearings, clutch, seals, and I know me so I'd get ARP main studs.