Modified Seat leon 1.9 TDI - need help

Hello,

My name is Chris and i have an seat leon 1.9 tdi, engine bxe, 2008
some items on my car:
GTB2260VK Turbo Kit
FMIC with 57mm Custom Pipe Work
EGR Delete
Race PD Injectors with Bosio R783 Nozzles
4 BAR MAP Sensor
3" Downpipe
76mm Exhaust System with Borla Resonator
Mocal Oil Cooler
Mocal Diesel Cooler
Oil Catch Tank
Motul 300v Power Oil
...
The car here have 240 hp and works very good
I plan to upgrade the car on May with this
Race Camshaft Kit
Ported Head
33mm Exhaust Valves
--------
What i do:
-Change 2 pistons, put Competition Spec Bearings, make linear plan to cylinder gasket and take aprox 0,10 mm, my car have head gasket with 2 holes 1,53 mm and i put with 3 holes 1,61 mm, ported head and cleaning, and the new race camshaft kit, modified for 33mm Exhaust Valves
After i put all of this to my car have THE GREAT AND UNSOLVED PROBLEM is that he lose power from 3500 rpm and receive this error when tested with foot on the floor on acceleration

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 119620 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 05:15:42

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3717 /min
Speed: 131.0 km/h
Load: 100.0 %
Voltage: 13.91 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
(no units): 3344.1
(no units): 2402.1

on 3700 rpm the engine enter in limp mode !

Please help me to solve this problem, and i will pay 100 euro thru paypal for the one who discover the problem.

What i test to solve but no result: all injectors, change the turbo vacuum actuator, test for leaks, test for exhaust manifold pressure, test for boost:
Engine Speed Boost Pressure Boost Pressure
(G28) (specified) (actual)
/min
2016 1428,7 1460,1
2079 2072,4 1538,6
2142 2480,6 1805,5
2247 2621,9 2150,9
2394 2496,3 2260,8
2331 2684,7 2464,9
2709 2747,5 2606,2
2667 2653,3 2480,6
2835 2716,1 2559,1
2856 2888,8 2606,2
2940 3014,4 2841,7
3129 3124,3 2857,4
3192 3140 2810,3
3255 3202,8 2778,9
3318 3234,2 2778,9
3402 3249,9 2731,8
3444 3281,3 2669
3486 3281,3 2606,2
3549 3297 2606,2
3570 3312,7 2559,1
3633 3328,4 2527,7
3654 3328,4 2512
3675 3344,1 2512
3696 3359,8 2464,9
3717 3359,8 2417,8
3738 1507,2 2417,8
3759 1444,4 1648,5

Here is my car, please help me:





Here is the video when the car enter in limp mode, tested on 4th gear with maximum pedal acceleration, vcds + EMP gauge
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHjh_X5YcC8&feature=youtu.be

Nevermind, it's not wastegated. EDIT!

Man that's a nice looking car, why cant we get some nice looking cars like that in NA!

Did your tuner properly setup the maps for a 4 bar sensor? Do you have a hand pressure/vacuum pump (such as a MityVac) that you can check to make sure it's setup correctly?

If that is all good, use the pump to check the actuator on the turbo. It should start moving at 3-5 inHg and stops anywhere from 12-18 inHg, depending on the turbo. If that checks out, you can see if shortening the rod, thus making that stop point lower on the gauge, helps the problem.

Following those items, hook up the pump or a vacuum gauge to the vacuum feed line to the "N75" the solenoid for controlling the amount of vacuum going to the actuator and see how much you're getting. It should be no less than 20 inHg.

Finally, the solenoid may be bad. I cannot tell because your posted number do not show the duty cycle of the N75.

All of this is on the assumption that your car does not use an electronically actuated turbo. Also, save your 100 Euro and buy a similarly capable vacuum/pressure pump if you don't have one.

Digital Corpus said:

Did your tuner properly setup the maps for a 4 bar sensor? Do you have a hand pressure/vacuum pump (such as a MityVac) that you can check to make sure it's setup correctly?

If that is all good, use the pump to check the actuator on the turbo. It should start moving at 3-5 inHg and stops anywhere from 12-18 inHg, depending on the turbo. If that checks out, you can see if shortening the rod, thus making that stop point lower on the gauge, helps the problem.

Following those items, hook up the pump or a vacuum gauge to the vacuum feed line to the "N75" the solenoid for controlling the amount of vacuum going to the actuator and see how much you're getting. It should be no less than 20 inHg.

Finally, the solenoid may be bad. I cannot tell because your posted number do not show the duty cycle of the N75.

All of this is on the assumption that your car does not use an electronically actuated turbo. Also, save your 100 Euro and buy a similarly capable vacuum/pressure pump if you don't have one.

Click to expand...

hello, and thanks for reply,
the car work with this map and tune fine the map sensor, but after the cam the car lose power from 240 hp the car have now 150 hp, and from 3000 -3500 rpm we feel that we want the accelerate but the car lose all the power and enter in limp mode.
I don't have an mytac vacuum pump, but i change the turbo vacuum actuator with a new one
here is the video with the vcds actuator test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofuYLhY2SYE
and here is the video with the car testing and find where is the problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sJ1840vehY (please see that the car have allot of power lose)

here is the duty cycle

Engine Speed Boost Pressure Boost Pressure Charge Pressure
(G28) (specified) (actual) Control Duty Cycle
/min %
2016 1428,7 1460,1 67,9
2079 2072,4 1538,6 80,5
2142 2480,6 1805,5 65,9
2247 2621,9 2150,9 50,5
2394 2496,3 2260,8 78,9
2331 2684,7 2464,9 40,6
2709 2747,5 2606,2 61,9
2667 2653,3 2480,6 64,7
2835 2716,1 2559,1 59,2
2856 2888,8 2606,2 57,6
2940 3014,4 2841,7 35,5
3129 3124,3 2857,4 56
3192 3140 2810,3 54,4
3255 3202,8 2778,9 53,3
3318 3234,2 2778,9 52,5
3402 3249,9 2731,8 52,1
3444 3281,3 2669 51,7
3486 3281,3 2606,2 51,3
3549 3297 2606,2 48,9
3570 3312,7 2559,1 51,3
3633 3328,4 2527,7 51,3
3654 3328,4 2512 51,3
3675 3344,1 2512 50,9
3696 3359,8 2464,9 51,3
3717 3359,8 2417,8 51,3
3738 1507,2 2417,8 6,7
3759 1444,4 1648,5 6,7

i send the injectors for testing in UK, and they tell me the test was successfully, and are ok
I will wait to arrive back so i can make the tests for:
- vacuum solenoid block
- Anti Shudder Valve
- vacuum - diesel pump

but i don't know if they are the problem because we did not work there !
We have 2 month and we did not discover why we lose power ... so sad

here are new photo for dyno

Fault only after new camshaft? I know it's a boost error code, but I'd be checking timing/torsion, and the injector rocker setting.

From where are you? There is many TDI specialist-tuners in europe that could help you with this easily, for sure!

Theo

Your actuator is set too long. It may be that the porting removed enough restriction that it has affected the turbos ability to meet the requested boost. These turbos can make that kind of pressure, but it isn't easy. Poor exhaust manifold flow (such as a modified stock manifold) can even reduce flow enough to make boost drop off at high RPM.

Maybe try a similar tune with lower i.t. at those rpm + perhaps lower n75 and target boost settings and see if it goes threw.. did the actuator arm was shorten, if done did the guy who did it is used to do this sort of things...?

How much overlap is there with cam intake and exhaust lobes? Gasoline engine performance cams often have alot of overlap. Diesels usually have very little, as exhaust will go to intake, or intake go to exhaust, depending which is higher, charge air pressure or exhaust manifold pressure. In either case, boost will be lost.

What is cam profile you are running? Find out the overlap.

we check the timing of camshaft, now we have -2,5 but we check with 0 and with 0,5 and 1 but car start very hard on worm engine
when we put to 0 we receive this error:
1 Fault Found:

000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 119200 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 23:47:32

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 588 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 10.79 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Idle Stabilization: 0.0°KW
(no units): 3.0
----------------
vwmikel - we use now your last file, with 240 hp, but we didn't expected when we make this modification to lose allot of power
and we thank you mike for the good job that you did to the ecu

here is the manifold that we use:

and here some photos from last modifications:




after we receive the injector we will make an little shorten the actuator and test the EMP and boost
---------------
some details for the race cam:

Made from a NEW Billet Steel OEM Quality Cam, not a cheap chilled cast that is prone to failure
Intake duration +15-degrees and Exhaust duration +22-degrees to stock
Lift increase to stock +1.65mm
PD Lobe modified to support higher RPM's
Spools larger turbos faster than stock camshaft and reduces EGTs

We spend allot of money for this project and this car and we want to finish, but we are stuck here and we don't know why !
http://www.altshop.ro/video/IMG_1218.JPG

Yep, measure emp and boost. If intake and exhaust duration were both increased, you could have too much flow going through the overlap at non firing tdc.

Ski in NC said:

Yep, measure emp and boost. If intake and exhaust duration were both increased, you could have too much flow going through the overlap at non firing tdc.

Click to expand...

my injectors will be back from UK next week, and i will make the actuator screw shorten and i will test the EMP and boost.
The pressure must to be 1:1 , no ?
Sorry for my english, can you explain me this, i do not understand "you could have too much flow going through the overlap at non firing tdc."?

I think last night about the problem and ask why when we accelerate normaly and don't push fast and more tot acceleration the car work ok, but we see fromm 3000 the car lose power and when we push maximum and fast to acceleration the engine vibrate (like some misfire), allot of smoke came out from the exhaust, and same after the 3000 engine lose power ?

I assume the seller of this "race" cam did some thoroughly tests before releasing the cam to the public. Or not?

asap03 said:

I assume the seller of this "race" cam did some thoroughly tests before releasing the cam to the public. Or not?

Click to expand...

yes this cam was installed on other project car from other country.

Someone know how to resetup the stop screw of the turbo ? "(i know the setup is like that, take out the stop screw than put vanes to maximum and then put the stop screw and after he touch the vanes threaded 2-3 turns the stop screw.)

from the turbo log it looks like the actuator is too long...make it shorter.

we test today the tandem pump and we discover the problem
on the pomp on idle and 3000 rpm we have only 1 bar
we block the hose that return the diesel and the pressure is rising

we will test tomorrow with another tandem pump made by pierburg and to see if the problem is fixed

we change 2 times the injectors seal kits with new bosh seals, once we put the injector back to the engine and another time when the injector are back from testing

we test today the compression and is ok
1: 25,3
2: 25,5
3: 25,9
4: 25,6

If this is PD engine, won't different cam throw whole soi and duration maps out of balance?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

rimad said:

If this is PD engine, won't different cam throw whole soi and duration maps out of balance?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Click to expand...

did you mean the ecu map ?

Yes, ECU duration/soi maps will be different I think.

rimad said:

Yes, ECU duration/soi maps will be different I think.

Click to expand...

yes, again the ecu maps will be modified, but not to see what happen with the tandem pump, i will change it and post here the news !

rimad said:

If this is PD engine, won't different cam throw whole soi and duration maps out of balance?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Click to expand...

It depends on the cam grind. If the injector lobes are modified it may shift where peak pressure occurs and that can dictate how long the ideal injection window might be.

After adjusting the VNT mechanically re scan the car and see what boost is. I think that the tune is the issue the turbo is not producing as much boost as requested for the whole run till 3700 when it starts over boosting.

3696 3359,8 2464,9 Under
3717 3359,8 2417,8 Under
3738 1507,2 2417,8 Over

You can adjust the duty some before 3700 to make actual closer to requested, allowing boost to drop off quicker above 3700 that way the ECU is not thinking you are destroying the turbo.

Or if the turbo can handle the boost then increase the requested boost a little at 3700.

the car is fixed, the problem was from tandem pump
i am so happy that we find the problem

i will be back how it work the project

thanks for all

So, the tandem pump was why you were running about 0.5 bar under your specified boost? I am curious what the link is, but assume its to do with generating vacuum?

devonutopia said:

So, the tandem pump was why you were running about 0.5 bar under your specified boost? I am curious what the link is, but assume its to do with generating vacuum?

Click to expand...

the tandem pump was make only 1 bar on idle and on 3000 rpm, only 1 bar of fuel pressure, no more fuel injection, no good EMP

we change the pump with another one, made on 2010, and it's work from the first start !

devonutopia said:

So, the tandem pump was why you were running about 0.5 bar under your specified boost? I am curious what the link is, but assume its to do with generating vacuum?

Click to expand...

as the car runs out of fuel it runs out of energy to keep spinning the turbo and boost drops

something like that anyway