Best Most Bullet Proof Turbo upgrade for ALH

I'm thinking I need to change out my old VNT-15. I have PP520 injectors, a malone Stage 3 tune and a VR6 clutch. What would be the most solid, durable (bullet proof...not really but as close as possible) turbo I could buy for a power upgrade and for durability. I realize that more power equals less durability but I am trying to find the sweet spot here. Right now, I'm thinking VNT-17. But before I go and lay out the cash, I wanted to know if there was a better option. Thanks.

a 1749vb, based on what you're saying, is probably your best bet. That, or a 17/22 hybrid from www.idparts.com. Very very few reported failures on those turbos. Hope your VR6 clutch will hold up!

as said the 17vb is an oe turbo from the manufacturer so theres not much to go wrong with , the 17/22 is a much better turbo in terms of performance and is very well made for a hybrid but hybids are never bullet proof . the other option is a 1756,2056vk , these are the turbos i want for my car basically because they are oem turbos but lagless and move allot of air much better than even the hybids. the only trouble is there not bolt on . this used to put me off but there allot of people who can weld adapter plates for you very easily

It all depends on the engine's duty cycle, ie. rally vs commuter vs road course, vs drag strip.

vnt17/52 hybrid seems very good for heavy street (best economy)

vnt gt2260 variants for entry race (expect some lag and smoke low speeds)

wg Holeset H1C 72mm (or equiv) wg-delete ok, found to take alot of abuse on roadcourse. 50psi+ (may cloud sun on tip-in)

Jeff

Don't forget about the new EFR line from Borg Warner...well built from what I've heard but not abused yet.

1756vk or gt1852v would be great. Then again, it's more $$ than the bolt in 17/22 hybrid. For that $$ you get similar or better performance with lower EMP's. Theoretically, it's better for your engine. That being said, I'm sure there are handful of members out there with over 100k on their street driven 17/22's, I'm halfway there myself and I'm not too nice to my turbo.

If reliability is your main concern, start thinking of the rest of the car. The clutch may or may not be up to the task, and if you're going to increase boost I'd advise getting head studs.
Don't forget additional hardware to get that new turbo working properly, a re-tune for 3 bar, sensor, and proper sized exhaust come to mind, as well as an EGT gauge and sensor.

I've got the VNT17vb with pp520's, an 11MM Pump and a RC2 / 3 tune. I've just started to slip my luk clutch - which never happened with the VNT15 I replaced. I am very happy with the setup, and just ordered a Stage II Endurance clutch with 23lb smf.

I went with the VNT17 after researching durability as well as not risking overpowering the rest of the stock internals of the engine.

I've had the OEM VNT 15 with RC2 and a 17/22 with RC 4/5/6 and I pull a trailer often.

The VNT 15 would run 5-10 psi boost on a heavy load for hours on end with no problems

The 17/22 has pulled much heavier loads and has run 10-15 psi boost and 1200-1400 EGT's for hours on end and just keeps on going. Pulling 6% 2 mile long grades with the trailer it will run 20-25 psi and 1550-1600F EGT's repeatedly.

I'd consider the 17/22 as it's been very reliable on many cars (I can only think of 1 failure that I've ever heard of).

I'd also seriously consider one of the new GTB1756VK's or GTB2056VK - Newer turbos, OEM turbos, supposed to be better designed and more efficient than the older ones.

The vnt 17 is going to be your most economical choice. I don't think there is a reliability with the popular hybrids but they do cost a little more. No one has mentioned the KERMA K3 it is probably the most capable drop in unit available.

Thank for all the great responses. I think I have setteled on the VNT17VB. It seems to have the right balance of power, durability, price, ease of installation and OEM factor to meet my needs. Now, I will have to work with Mark on the tune to make sure I don't burn up the new VR6 clutch.

Good idea. Realize that you'll need an adapter for the IC plumbing connection. You'll also need to cut your existing rubber connecting pipe and you will probably need to clock the face of the compressor housing to clear the block. You also need a small bracket to mount the turbo, as it doesn't use the long bracket that is used by the VNT15.

If you need help with identifying specifically what you need, feel free to PM me. You're vendor can surely fill you in.

Any updates on this, what did you chose and how long did it last?

I used a VNT17 purchased from ID Parts. It is still in service and running awesome

That is mighty impressive, replying to a 4,793 day old post and getting a response. Cheers

Dalon said:

That is mighty impressive, replying to a 4,793 day old post and getting a response. Cheers

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It's the best, a long term review