VCDS Results....Might need some help

I finally got a hold of VCDS-lite registered and have been checking some stuff out. Take a look at what i managed to find on my 02 jetta tdi.





this was my reaction

Use the 1.9 R4 ALH 04/99>>. It should still be slightly over the line, but you can back it off easily.

Check the engine type the software is checking (lower right corner drop down). You have it set for a 1Z engine. Try changing it to ALH (2002 right?) and see where it puts your timing then.

Okay i did that and its still over the green line. I believe i have to adjust the fuel pump by loosening 3 bolts, but which way do i adjust it. and where about on that chart do i want my timing to be. I know the green, but where do you see the best results.

Also I'm curious on what this will do for my fuel millage and power once set right?

Thanks

Loosen the three bolts (they should be gold without a narrow section above the threads), and turn the 22mm center nut anticlockwise a tiny amount. If you can tell you moved the wrench, you've probably gone too far.

Tighten the three bolts to 25 N-m, and check the graph. About 60 when warm is a reasonable goal, which is about halfway between blue and green. This is a basic setting, so it will not affect actual running timing, but will allow the engine to retard the timing a little more at lower RPM. The fuel economy/power difference will be nil.

If you have the old style bolts, they are single use, and should be replaced with the new style as soon as possible.

I guess if its not going to change anything why mess with it, right? or is where its at now affecting it? I'm having an overboost condition. I got a new maf, new n75, good vacuum lines, VNT is holding vacuum and moving freely. At the shop when they first put the motor in it they said they were adjusting the timing to remove the overboost condition.

The basic timing needs to be in the window, or the management system may hit a control deviation in some conditions.

To check out your charge pressure control, you can look at group 011 and compare the actual vs requested pressure. Use a hand vacuum pump to operate the vane actuator. It should start motion near 3-5 inHg and stop near 18-20 inHg. That is if the fault code stored is really for a pressure control deviation.

At toward the end of that spike is when it went into limp mode and threw the overboost condition.

Green is specified/ requested yellow is actual. Red is engine rpm.

Your actuator is incorrectly set (if replaced), or there is binding.

Check the actuator out with a hand pump. Another possibility is severe intake clogging.

I was just moving the VNT, but probably not as smooth as vacuum does. I'll hose it down with some oil and give move it around to see if i can get it to clear up, if i had a hand pump i would give that a go.

I just had the egr valve off and cleaned it, i looked down the intake and there was about 1/4 inch of buildup there. The thing i had the overboost condition with the last engine, and i had that intake and egr as clean as can be. So its pretty much narrowed down to that actuator, or sticking veins in the turbo. Unless somehow its dropping boost. but it does seem like it doesnt open up enough when needed.

Don't "hose it off with oil." It will do more harm than good; the mityvac kits are cheap, and you can even borrow one from a FLAPS in most places.

k, i decided not to hose it down cause i wasn't going to be able to drive it right away so i left it. But i did check actuator when my friend turned the key on, and i didn't feel like it moved at all. I think i might have knocked one line off before the n75 when i was playing with it. I didn't have time to look around for the leak. i know there is no leak from the hose from n75 to the actuator tho.



Thanks for helping me with this. I don't have the time right now to work on it steady, possibly sunday i will have the time. Might stop in a get a mity vac to do some further checking into things.

k, i decided not to hose it down cause i wasn't going to be able to drive it right away so i left it. But i did check actuator when my friend turned the key on, and i didn't feel like it moved at all. I think i might have knocked one line off before the n75 when i was playing with it. I didn't have time to look around for the leak. i know there is no leak from the hose from n75 to the actuator tho. and the lines were hooked up correctly



Thanks for helping me with this. I don't have the time right now to work on it steady, possibly sunday i will have the time. Might stop in a get a mity vac to do some further checking into things.

Well today i got some time and set the timing back to where it should be, i also found my vacuum leak its my vnt actuator and it had a pin hole in it. I cleaned it up and found/ made some more pin holes so im going to replace it. In the process of finding the leak i managed to break the nipple on the vacuum reservoir. Anyone know where i can find them? I did some checking on ebay but didn't turn up much, and idk if i want a actuator off ebay anyways.

Also on replacing that actuator, my bolts look very very rusted and heat cooked. Do these bolts look tougher than they actually are or will they twist off?

Thanks

I have a spare here if you want it.

You can epoxy a small tube back into the reservoir, think something like a straw from an aersol can.

I found the parts, but i think i might just leave it. I stuck a bolt in the end of the hose and the brakes feel much better. Will there be any adverse affects if i just left a bolt in a hose?

I sent you a pm jcrews.

Thanks

-also should i get a garrett vnt15 or do i get a different brand?