2012 passat tdi vibration at high speeds

2012 passat tdi manual, some vibration during high speed (70-80 mph) when accelerating, Vibration goes away when let go the accelerator. Had all 4 tires balanced twice, no change????

I had the same thing with aftermarket wheels and it was the balance of the wheels. Bring it somewhere that has a road force balancer.

Is the car all stock or have you modified the ride height or riding on aftermarket wheels?

Normally that type of vibration is caused by an axle problem, but could also be caused by a driveline alignment problem (which in turn places the geometry of the axles in a less than ideal position). However, given the uber craptasticness of so many tires nowadays, I would look for the telltale kiss of death on the tires your car left the factory with: "MADE IN CHINA". If you see that, buy a good set of tires and I bet the problem will be gone.

monty66 said:

2012 passat tdi manual, some vibration during high speed (70-80 mph) when accelerating, Vibration goes away when let go the accelerator. Had all 4 tires balanced twice, no change????

Click to expand...

Try and pay attention to the rpms this happens at and then try it again in 5th gear. If the problem still happens at the same rpm but different speed you know its engine related. I have a vehicle that buzzes at a certain rpm. I believe that to be a fueling issue. Common problem with that vehicle.

wheel vibration at high speeds

I lowered the car 1.5" with H&R over coil ($1,300.) 19" wheels and new tires, Wheel alignment and the road force balance. I feel a little wheel vibration at 70-80 mph while accelerating and it goes away when I let go the accelerator. It feels like a miss in the engine something in the drive train. I'm worried if VW will void my warranty due to the modifications.

Your mods may have placed the axles at an angle in which they don't work well. CV axles are designed such that a nuetral position give or take is where they are placed.

You may be the first to find out lowering the NMS is not a good thing.

oilhammer said:

CV axles are designed such that a nuetral position give or take is where they are placed.

You may be the first to find out lowering the NMS is not a good thing.

Click to expand...

OH, I agree with you on the angle in which CV axles are designed to work. But lowering the B7 not a good thing? C'mon, it's just A5/A5/B6 suspension under there. Pleanty of those cars running around ... lower than they should be too. Lol.

Yep, and plenty of them with messed up pieces, LOL! And while they may be similar to the other cars, they are not identical. Just a quick look through ETKA will confirm that. Plenty of NMS-specific 5C0/561 parts prefixes in there (instead of the 1K0 and 3C0 for the A5 and B6, respectively).

monty66 said:

I lowered the car 1.5" with H&R over coil ($1,300.) 19" wheels and new tires, Wheel alignment and the road force balance. I feel a little wheel vibration at 70-80 mph while accelerating and it goes away when I let go the accelerator. It feels like a miss in the engine something in the drive train. I'm worried if VW will void my warranty due to the modifications.

Click to expand...

Do you have the stock wheels to put on to rule out the balance of your 19's? I would suggest this because I had the same exact vibration as you described with my 19's. I brought them to a different tire place to have rebalanced and it's been fine since.

oilhammer said:

Your mods may have placed the axles at an angle in which they don't work well. CV axles are designed such that a nuetral position give or take is where they are placed.

You may be the first to find out lowering the NMS is not a good thing.

Click to expand...

oilhammer, what else can I do to fix this problem and keep my modifications?

First make certain the driveline is centered. The end mounts (timing belt end and opposite end on trans near battery) should have slotted holes. If you support the eng/trans from above and loosen those bolts, you may be able to see if it wants to slide in one direction or another. Those are TTY bolts, too. This procedure (and measurements) should be in the shop manual. I do not have one for the NMS, and it may not even be available yet. I do not believe the NMS has slotted ball joint stud holes in the control arms, but with your mods you may have to make them slotted (like the older A2, A3, B4 cars were). This will allow a further adjustment to the drive axle, so you can lengthen or shorten them a bit. Problem is, unless you happened to have the car up in the air on a drive-on lift and measured the drive axle angle/length BEFORE you changed your car's suspension, you won't know where exactly to move it.

But really, before you go through any of this, do yourself a favor (since it should be the quickest easiest thing to do). Put the STOCK tires/wheels back on and see if the problem persists. Cheap Chinesium wheels and tires from China/Korea/Philipines/Indonesia can cause all sorts of strange problems.

oilhammer, thankyou and I will put on the stock tires/wheels and see what happens. I will keep you posted.