What did you do to your MKIV today?

I managed to change the tranny oil. Redline in there now, so much better than G70.
Pulled fuse 24 and put it back. Windshield washer motor is working again. And zip tied the side skirt to the belly pan so no more rubbing. Oh and cleared the two codes (the side airbag one will come back soon).

Got the engine in the Jetta, and took it for a spin. Works just as expected. Going to get a set of those remote clamp pliers. No question about it... MT90 Redline in the trans...and man is she sweet.
cheers,
Douglas

New Moog problem solver ball joints and a wider motor from an 04 jetta big get motor and faster wipes than my 02.

New latch for the drivers door. Nice being able to setu alarm again.

2005 Golf--
After the dealer couldn't figure out my limp mode problem and A/C problem, scoured the archives here on the forum, figuring I had two separate problems. The car went into limp mode suddenly at the start of a trip, and would not reset except at random intervals, usually at the worst possible time (like in the middle of a roundabout...). I did have a bad check valve and N75, but those did not fix anything. So under the car I go, and verified the travel of the turbo actuator with my MityVac. Based on something I read here, I disconnected the actuator from power. Went for a drive, and had proper turbo operation. And as a side benefit, the A/C works normally. Seems a bad potentiometer will cause the ecu to kill the A/C until over 2500 rpm. Next step is to check the wiring to the pot and the resistance across the terminals.

Started soldering wiring from a JY harness to the original in dash wiring in order to install my new double DIN radio. Upon joining the original wires to the JY wiring, noticed that the door locks won’t unlock upon removing the key from ignition. What did I miss?


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Installed new OEM front fender liners and new OEM front splash guards. The passenger side is a vented fender liner, for increased air flow through the SMIC.

Over the weekend I installed new struts and shocks; Bilstein TC's and Moog mounts, sway bar links and bushings, regreased my CV joints and put a good replacement axle on the passenger side instead of the el-cheapo one I put on just to get it back on the road. Also cleaned and re-lubed the slides on all of the brakes, as well as a power steering flush, brake system flush and oil change.

I don't think that the ride in this car has ever been this good, at least since I've had it.

I'm not sure if it was because of all of the hammering and moving everything, or if it's just because things are quiet now, but I have a very noticeable wheel bearing noise now. Knew it was coming sooner or later.

sriracha said:

The passenger side is a vented fender liner, for increased air flow through the SMIC.

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I did that too, kind of. I lowered the white car on the factory wheels and it was rubbing when making a turn, but eventually "clearanced" itself and now there's no more rubbing in that spot and it flows more air through the factory SMIC
It still rubs a little when I'm on the BBS RC wheels for the summer.

Took the Golf to do some timber harvest layout. Got a little dusty, tested ground clearance vigorously. Need to install the taller-er front springs soon.

Installed new OEM taillights with new bulbs and LED Zizos reverse light bulbs, on my wagon. I can finally see when I back up at night.

Over the last few days I have been pretty deep into the engine bay on my car.

Installed DLC1019 Injectors, re-tuned to a Malone stage 4 "small fuel" tune, installed a BRM intake and race pipe, and a Darkside SMIC and piping kit. Oh and put a catch can on too.

Everything went fairly smooth, a few hiccups. Overall I'm ecstatic with how the car is now. I love that my intake is as free flowing as possible. I like the Darkside kit, it takes a little trimming and forcing to get everything installed. But I did get everything situated where it needs to be. No rubbing or touching, just like it should be.

I'm interested to see if my MPG changes much. Of course after I stop playing with the power. 46-47 in the summer and 50-51 in the winter. I think I should be able to stay around those numbers when not in the throttle.

Son and I installed a high mileage timing belt kit. Some new fuel lines & filter, changed the oil & filter, and finished getting the trunk lid to latch. (I used a screw/scissors jack and a bunch of cribbing to push the trunk area out from a light rear end hit. I turned out pretty good for a complete novice)





We got a decent right front fender, trunk lid, and rear bumper cover yesterday at the junkyard.


I'm all car'd out for a little bit...

03 shaker said:

I'm interested to see if my MPG changes much. Of course after I stop playing with the power. 46-47 in the summer and 50-51 in the winter. I think I should be able to stay around those numbers when not in the throttle.

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Actually you’re mileage should be better with summer fuel, than with winter.



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red16vdub said:

Actually you’re mileage should be better with summer fuel, than with winter.

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He is in Alabama, so heavy AC use in summer and not so much in winter.

I would be shocked if you get 46 mpg with a stage 4 tune. Everything on my wagon is spot on and I get 32 mpg with a stage 4 Malone tune. The flip side is that the car is way more fun to drive.

mrfiat said:

I would be shocked if you get 46 mpg with a stage 4 tune. Everything on my wagon is spot on and I get 32 mpg with a stage 4 Malone tune. The flip side is that the car is way more fun to drive.

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Depends on how you drive. I'm at a disadvantage, I have heavy traffic going down three hills, then the same hills to climb after work. I drove out of town recently and managed to squeeze 43mpg at just cruising speed. My normal commute I still average 35 though

kidflyr said:

Took the Golf to do some timber harvest layout. Got a little dusty, tested ground clearance vigorously. Need to install the taller-er front springs soon.

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I bet that was a lot of fun!!!



(Not in reply)
I purchased two craigslist steals. The first: Thule 480R traverse feet with proper fit kit(1051) and 47" thule Aeroblades! Paid $200 for that.

Id been looking for the best, inexpensive cargo carrier. Id decided the homedepots "Curt" brand was the right one for me. The Amazon ones have poor welds and need alot of touchups to prevent rust. These Curt ones I feel just need a good scrubbing, priming and Rustoleum painting(may even roll on rhinoline them)
So, the second "steal:"
I found a set, New In Box, the Curt rack and extension. Including two bungee nets. For $100. I was comfortable paying the $165 for the carrier and extender.

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FINALLY timed it right and squeaked 700 miles into a tank, and we did it with a full wagon! I had 1.3 gallons left assuming vented 17gal capacity.

Camping gear up to headrest height with the rear seat bottoms removed and seat backs folded flat (truck mode). 800 is next goal!


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TornadoRed said:

He is in Alabama, so heavy AC use in summer and not so much in winter.

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I see his location.


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mrfiat said:

I would be shocked if you get 46 mpg with a stage 4 tune. Everything on my wagon is spot on and I get 32 mpg with a stage 4 Malone tune. The flip side is that the car is way more fun to drive.

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Maybe you’re wagon is not as spot on as you think, 32 mpg is horrible imo for any tune Alh Tdi. I personally would have somebody more capable go over the car.


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mrfiat said:

I would be shocked if you get 46 mpg with a stage 4 tune. Everything on my wagon is spot on and I get 32 mpg with a stage 4 Malone tune. The flip side is that the car is way more fun to drive.

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Honestly, that's horrible. I would be very upset to see that FE. I ran Rocketchip Stage 6 for years with a 17/22 turbo, 11mm pump, PP502 injectors (PP764s for a while), and rarely saw less than 40 MPG. 42-44 was typical.

Something isn't right either with your car or the tune.

Another from the peanut gallery that 32 MPG is well under typical. Similar to IBW but R520's, lower compression, etc and would regularly get low/mid 40's with zero effort toward MPG's. Upper 40's if it was driven anywhere near the speed limit.

Is your wagon an automatic?
Are you pulling a trailer?
Do you have a rooftop cargo carrier?

I’m interested where this thread is going. I have a stage 3 tune too and for city driving, it’s not very economic. Although, when I’m on the highway, it is waaay better. Still can’t figure out what is wrong with my car. I used to get close to 700 miles per tank (vented) and now I barely get close to 600, with highway miles. Anyway, great job on your cars guys!


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red16vdub said:

Actually you’re mileage should be better with summer fuel, than with winter.



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Click to expand...

TornadoRed said:

He is in Alabama, so heavy AC use in summer and not so much in winter.

Click to expand...

Yep. No winter fuel here. AC is the determining factor. Over three years with this car and the numbers I posted earlier have been consistent every year. When I start having to use the AC all the time (literally anytime I'm in the car) my MPG drops, then when I can finally drive without it much, MPG gets a little better. Not something that keeps me up at night though. Maybe there's something not perfect with my compressor but I'm not fixing it until it's broke

I really didn't mean to start a whole thing about tuned MPG, just commenting that I'm interested to see how it affects my MPG. When I finished the work on the car the fuel light was on, so this tank is 100% current setup. I'll report when I fuel up towards the end of the week what my MPG was.

My '02 Wagon is pretty much my daily driver. In May I had the leaking IP replaced with a rebuilt 11mm, and had the timing belt service done at the same time as I was only about 5K short of the interval. Since then my FE has improved a little: I've seen over 50 MPG out of the last three tanks. This includes commuting, some traffic, lots of local driving, some cruising at 80+...a real mix. I don't use the A/C a lot, but I don't see much of a difference with or without it. My last two tanks were over 800 miles, and I can't remember the last time I got fewer than 700 miles. This is with RC3+, stock turbo, PP357s, the aforementioned 11mm pump. Engine now has 100K miles on it, so it's nicely broken in.

Mechanical and tuning setup are key to good FE, as is hardware condition. I'm fortunate to have a guru that's obsessive about getting the car set up right (mr chill here), and I'm a big fan of Rocketchip's tunes. Whatever it is, the combination works.

People wonder why I keep driving this car with 390K on it when I have much newer cars available to me. It's hard to step away from this kind of FE and range.

Today, I was walked through a camshaft and lifter changeout by member Nero Morg. It was an awesome learning experience, and the car feels super smooth now. My lifters had the tell-tale bow-tie divots along with pitting on the lobe tips. That baby's good for another 200k (won't worry about the cam until 435k miles!).


Thanks Nero!

Replaced the left rear hub that was whirring. Previous owner had them replaced once upon a time by a local tire shop and had to get one of them replaced again after it failed early. Brand removed was GMB and had spalling on the outer race. Put in a FAG brand (made in Slovakia). Nice and smooth now!

Decided to replace the rear rotor and pads also. I'm hoping the drag on the rear is due to the pads not yet bedding in and not due to my calipers being stuck. Sliders were fine, pistons screwed in clockwise, didn't see any corrosion but the right rear was hard to turn to retract.

Now that I also own an e_Golf I need to figure out what I'm going to do with this car - donate for taxes, sell, or give to someone that is getting their license.

A week ago, I built and installed an agricultural strainer crankcase vapor separator, since I was having a LOT of oil venting from a worn EGR valve actuator.
Today, I was checking on the separator's 3/4" clear plumbing, and found very little in the inlet side, and nothing on the outlet, but still a lot of oil wetting the rear of the valve cover from the bypass port on the EGR valve...

I have a new EGR valve ready to install, but I'm thinking that this is telling me that my turbo is on it's way out.
(With "only" 333,400 miles on the odometer, and 10k of that running a Malone stage 3 tune...)


Time to start looking at options for the next turbo, definitely not retiring the car for something this minor!

Got the engine in my Golf, gotta adjust the shift linkage and order some trans and p/s fluid.


Also did a l/s rear caliper on my MK5 Jetta, it must have been dragging bad, mpg went down to 38 and it feels like a new car with no calipers dragging.
What a difference.