What size pneumatic impact wrench

do I need for most work on a 02 TDI?

Thinking of buying one but don't know what torque rating is usually required.

TIA for any suggestions.

I put my air impacts away and have been using cordless for a few years now.

I use the 3/8” for the small stuff and 1/2” for the high torqued fasteners



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The M12 fuel impact, and standard (not fuel line, it's more bulky due to head size) ratchet are great, 3/8" size.

Basically just use the compressor for bodywork and airing up tires.

Home Depot sells a Husky kit right now (new set) that is a socket set with a cordless 3/8 version of the typical 3/8 pneumatic. That cordless is great, has 30 ft-lb torque on the electric which is perfect for most things on the car. The few bigger items like engine mounts, go at them with the Ryobi 18v One+ 1/2" impact gun (150ft-lbs removal force) and there's not much on the engine that you can't do.

I work on a lot of different cars - but only models of the TDI or Jeep CRD - and these are my primary force weapons.

I like my Kobalt 3/8 and 1/2 inch cordless impacts along with my Milwaukee 3/8 and 1/4 inch cordless ratchets. I rarely use my hammerhead angled impact or my snap on guns anymore. I do occasionally need to break out my 3/4 inch air gun for non-VW work.

Air impacts are quickly going away with the brushless cordless impacts. My M18 1/2 impact always amazes me what it can take off.

For daily use the air stuff seems to still work the best. And no batteries to worry about. I am on my fourth 3/8" cordless impact, and I guess about the 20th battery, I've lost count. I use it a lot, but primarily for convenience. The batteries are $120 a pop.

But in that time I have had ONE 1/2" air impact, an Ingersol-Rand. One of the first composite body ones they came out with. Replaced the anvil once, the trigger o-rings a couple times. 650 ft-lb (although they have an 800 version now).

I had a Milwaukee cordless 1/2", and it worked OK (a bit heavy, but you don't have to drag an air hose with it), but it only seemed to have all its oomph for the first half of the battery charge, then it dropped off. It was the older version, though, so I am sure it has improved. But until they let me get 5+ years out of a battery, I'm not interested. They are also not as tough around the shop. I've dropped my IR impact countless times, drug it across the floor, it has been DRIVEN OVER (don't ask), and yes, dropped into an oil bucket...completely submerged... and it still works perfectly.

My 3/8" Snap On impact is tough, but not that tough. And it is not unusual for one of the battery retension clips to break before the battery is actually worn out (dealing with that now on one of the batteries). The DeWalt one I have for lighter duty dash work actually had both its original batteries shatter for no obvious reason. They warranted them both, another has shattered since then. When they asked how I was using it, and if there was "excessive vibration", I gave the guy a look and said "you know, this is an IMPACT wrench, right? The word IMPACT is right in its name". Dumbass...

I say half inch air impact. The max torque is more a function of the air compressor, you want something rated to match the CFM of the impact you purchase.

Thanks folks for the recommendations. Hadn't considered electric wrenches before (corded or cordless) - will take a look. Looks like 1/2" though would be best for suspension work etc.

Same as folks above:

* ½" Milwaukee M18 (supposedly 1100ft.lbs "nut-busting torque") for the big stuff.
* ¼" Milwaukee M18 for small stuff.
* ⅜" Milwaukee M12 ratchet
* Black Diamond ReVolt rechargeable LED headlamp (you didn't ask, but damn - this thing makes working in tight spaces so much easier )

The Milwaukee stuff isn't cheap, but there hasn't been a day where I've regretted laying out the $$$ for those tools.

Thanks. Looks like 1/2" it is.

Yeah, those LED headlamps look a bit dorky but they do work well alright.

You are right about buying cheap tools - the same as cheap paint or brushes.

You can't beat air for long term reliability, but you need a helluva'
compressor. The battery models are convenient, but as Oilhammer
points out, they really don't stand up to constant use.

I don't due enough mechanicing to justify the cost of any impact
equipment, you also need the tooling to go with it. A serious breaker
bar suits my needs, slower, yes, but coupled with a hammer as
a "manual" impact, I'll get there with a lot less noise, and expense.

For the pro, absolutely, for this occasional wrencher, not necessary.

A half inch impact is a must, it will break loose almost anything the average driveway mechanic runs into. Unless you’re working on farm equipment, or big trucks.

I have a old ingersoll rand 1/2 inch that I don’t use anymore, since I found a lightly used Mac on eBay. I have a small 3/8 I/R impact but I rarely use it preferring to use my hand ratchet on fasteners that aren’t stuck.

It really depends on what all you are planning or wanting to do. For years, in my teens, I worked on things at home in a garage with no air tools, floor jack, and jack stands. And I did a lot of stuff, but looking back I know I spent a lot of time doing things or attempting to do things that I could do today in the shop in just a few minutes. But you will likely never, ever, have nor need all of the expense of the stuff I have now at home in your garage working on a few of your own cars. It just isn't worth it. You are better off just paying someone who HAS the equipment to do it.

Everyone needs to know their limits, and decide what works or doesn't work for them. Tools, good ones, are not cheap. But they'll last a long time... often indefinitely. A lower quality tool may get the job done once or twice, but won't get it done 100 times. But if you only NEED to do it once or twice, and it CAN get the job done, and you do not put yourself in harm's way using it, then that is your best choice.

And yes, in the case of impact tools, an air operated one does of course necessitate an air compressor... and the type needed to make proper use of a big chunky 1/2" drive one like mine will be substantial. Not the little roll around 120v jobs like you use with a brad nailer. Those will barely get one wheel bolt loose before you have to stop and wait...been there, done that, LOL.

But, even if you let it sit for six months, it'll still work. The cordless ones, if they sit for six months, the battery may be flat, and it may not charge back up. Also been there, done that....

I love my DEWALT DCF899HB 20v MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench which is 700 ft-lbs max clockwise, breakaway torque 1200 ft-lbs. A little spendy for sure but a great tool

oilhammer said:

But you will likely never, ever, have nor need all of the expense of the stuff I have now at home in your garage working on a few of your own cars. It just isn't worth it. You are better off just paying someone who HAS the equipment to do it.

Click to expand...

I agree with almost everything oilhammer says here, but I'll differ here.

There are so many things I've done on my car where I didn't have the right tool, or a very good tool, and I could have paid someone to do the job - but instead, I took the money I would've paid someone and bought the tool (and typically came out way ahead, financially).
Like timing belt - I didn't have a good torque wrench that I trusted. So, I bought a used snap-on electronic torque wrench, had it calibrated (total outlay ~$300) - which is what I paid a guru in labor to do my first timing belt change.

But now I have the tool, and the experience, knowledge, and confidence to do more stuff on my car.
If you like to take care of your own gear, spend the money on the tools.

Strongly agree there, did the same when I was younger but unfortunately bought a few of the cheaper tools and ended up replacing them later. When it comes to tools that rotate, buy once cry once.


Have that 1/2" dewalt and the whipper snipper too (in the city, definitely miss a stihl), beefy tool but a bit heavy compared to the milwaukee. Pulled a crank bolt with ease on a damaged motor using the milwaukee the other day after a IR behind a 60 gal 130psi tank couldn't budge it. The newest line of tools with LG brown 3000mahr cells are really solid, but there might be 21700 batteries coming out within the next couple of years that'll put out a lot more power.

STDOUBT said:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/PopularTorqueSettings.pdf

Click to expand...

Is there a torque spec page like this for a pd brm and dsg?

Here's what I would do. If you are just working on your car once in a while I would just get a cordless 1/4" impact driver. They are small and pack a surprising amount of punch. So what if you have to initially loosen some of the bolts by hand. I hardly ever use my 3/8" air impact any more because the impact driver is just so handy. I'm pretty partial to the M-18 system. If you don't have a descent sized air compressor then there isn't much point in getting a larger air wrench As they do require good air volumes and pressures to work properly. Milwaukee makes a good 1/2" cordless impact but it's pricey for only occasional use.

If you are wrenching full time then I would follow oilhammers recommendations. He hit everything pretty well right on.

I'll weigh in a little. I have a 1/2" MAC impact that is awesome. I don't mind pulling out the compressor to use it. I also have a the HF Earthquake 1/2" Battery impact - which is bad ass (something like 1400 ft lbs of torque). I have a 3/8" HF air impact and 3/8" air ratchet which I use when needed and do a very good job for an avid DIY like me.