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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > Alternative Diesel Fuels (Biodiesel, WVO, SVO, BTL, GTL etc)

Alternative Diesel Fuels (Biodiesel, WVO, SVO, BTL, GTL etc) Discussions about alternative fuels for use in our TDI's. This includes biodiesel WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil), SVO (Straight Vegetable Oil), BTL (Biomass to Liquid), GTL (Gas to Liquids) etc. Please note the Fuel Disclaimer.

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Old April 15th, 2018, 11:49   #16
BKmetz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic reducer View Post
maybe my b4 Passat too but seems more risky and the payout is a lot lower.
Don't use anything but D2 in your B4. Even though the 1Z engine is the first generation TDI and is quite crude by today's technology, it can't handle WMO at all without severe damage. It can't really handle SVO or WVO either for that matter.

I put over 750k miles on my 2 B4s. In all those miles I only had to replace injectors in one car once at around ~300k miles, and a temperature sensor in the other at around ~300k miles.

Here is a photo I took of the inside of the fuel pump when I replaced the temperature sensor. This photo was taken in the parking lot at the 2006 Philly TDIFest. JasonTDI & I replaced the temp sensor. You can see the paper towels stuffed around the fuel pump to catch the spillage when we pulled the top off. If you use pump fuel and change your fuel filters when you're suppose to, this is what the fuel pump should always look like inside.


This is what the temperature sensor looks like.


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Last edited by BKmetz; April 15th, 2018 at 12:28. Reason: Added detail
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Old January 14th, 2019, 20:57   #17
[486]
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With the sickly stink of vegetable oil coming from the pumps now that they've mandated biodiesel blending is making me think again on this. My #3 injector leaks a little externally, and the front of my engine looks like a neglected deep-fryer as a result. I'd do this to just get back to a proper petroleum based fuel.

Still running W85 in my ford, still showing good results there, and the tuning side of things is rather easy for me to bumble through. Just leery on possibly messing up my $400 set of nozzles... Though putting it that way makes it seem silly, as that's only 10 fillups or 6000 miles of driving.

May well be some development in this on my end. 12mm/de110 pump and DSS .360s should give enough fuel to compensate for the lower energy density.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 21:18   #18
[486]
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right now I'm at about 3 gal used lube oil, 1 g gasoline and 6 g diesel

Been running over-advanced timing, so it was very sluggish with proper diesel, but with the worse cetane of the waste oil the turbos seem to be lighting up a little earlier, almost as they were with the previous well-retarded timing and proper diesel. Gonna continue messing around with this, got a bucket that's premixed 4g of used ATF and 1g of gasoline that was destined for my truck which is parked for the winter, that'll be going in next when there's room, and the temperature's going to be down real low all next week so that'll be a good test for the starting side of things.
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Old January 27th, 2019, 04:55   #19
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When I had 1.6 IDI I run some time 50:50 diesel hydraulic oil. It had more power in low revs. But it wear out my injector pump. I didn't purify oil in any way.

Here are some ideas how to purify WMO:
https://sciencing.com/distill-motor-...l-7861173.html
https://usfiltermaxx.com/en/content/9-make-black-diesel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFNnoQyN7Zs
Few years ago there was much more info about black diesel.

If I would run it now I would use settling tanks and centrifuges to purify it.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 19:30   #20
[486]
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Multiple days parked outside in -20 to -30F
Started every morning.
Diesel sucks, lube oil and gasoline is where it's at!
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Old February 6th, 2019, 13:17   #21
erbilabuc
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Originally Posted by [486] View Post
Multiple days parked outside in -20 to -30F
Started every morning.
Diesel sucks, lube oil and gasoline is where it's at!
what car are you using this mixture on and what is your definition of "lube oil"
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Old February 6th, 2019, 18:18   #22
[486]
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5w20 drain oil, alh with big honkin fuel system stuff and reasonably sized turbos
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Old February 14th, 2019, 05:17   #23
Pat Dolan
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diesel WMO is black because it contains soot. Yes, you could be getting some deposits from the higher boiling point of the longer paraffin chains of vacuum distillates (lube oil base stock), but IMHO the big deal is that you will be gluing a lot of pure carbon (soot) into those deposits. Also, the additive package contains a lot of metallic compounds (especially zinc) that will make yet another deposit that the engine might no be so crazy about. You can not filter or centrifuge either of those out, just the big stuff.

I have run a lot of gensets on napthenic base stocks that are about 5 CSt @ 20C, and the ultimate limit seems to be carbon accumulation in exhaust side. Seem to scavenge well in combustion chamber. However, we have some very electronic engines on the farm that really do NOT like running anything but ULSD, so there are some definite limits to alternative fuels. BUT: that is no endorsement of WMO. I would want to see someone run a well known mix for many miles in any particular (all mechanical) engine and see a teardown for deposit characteristics before trying it in the very same engine (may 486's Ford/IHC IDI could be a test mule).

Of course, for literally junkyard engines, what have you got to loose? .... just as long as you tear down and report to us.
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Old February 14th, 2019, 18:33   #24
[486]
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Originally Posted by Pat Dolan View Post
I would want to see someone run a well known mix for many miles in any particular (all mechanical) engine and see a teardown for deposit characteristics before trying it in the very same engine (may 486's Ford/IHC IDI could be a test mule).

Of course, for literally junkyard engines, what have you got to loose? .... just as long as you tear down and report to us.
rofl
motor that came with the $650 truck (at about 250k miles) got pulled out about 4 years and 2k miles later, it had been bubbling out the rad pretty good for the entire time I owned it, assumed it was head gasket. Cylinder wall was eaten through as these do. All 8 were sleeved and it was the worst rebuild I'd ever seen with the main bores beat like it'd been slung around with a chain through them. The problem cylinder had rust pitting in it so bad it's a wonder the piston rings hadn't caught on it.

The motor I put in, (a $600 craigslist deal) also seems to push coolant. It also hydrolocks itself if it stops at the right spot. rofl
I've given up on 7.3s, I'm halfway looking for a 6.9 as they don't have cylinder wall issues, but they're all long scrapped around here.

So yeah, your "literally junkyard engines" quip is understating the garbage that I drive. c:

ETA: oh right, on the buildup in the exhaust, is it coke?
I'd bet that would be more a problem on constant load stuff than an automotive engine where it can see periodic loading well beyond what you'd see on an industrial engine. My TDI sees the pyro pegged pretty often, and the truck is naturally aspirated (but showed no signs of any buildup in the exhaust manifolds) but the pyro on that's been broken long enough that I don't remember whereabout it ran.

Last edited by [486]; February 14th, 2019 at 18:47.
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Old March 6th, 2019, 16:01   #25
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If you are running pre-PowerJoke 6.9 and 7.3s, you need to pay especially close attention to the SCA level in the coolant. THAT is what blows holes in the cylinder bores (from cavitation). Take an SCA kit (dip paper strips) to your next junkyard search, and don't buy something that doesn't have full value. If you were a bit closer, I could give you some (they are or at least were cheap).
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Old March 6th, 2019, 16:37   #26
[486]
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'powerstroke' was when they started with HEUI and direct injection
6.9s had no troubles with cavitation, the IDI 7.3s did

they went to a totally different bore spacing and everything on the DI 7.3, so it is pretty safe to assume the cylinder walls are a lot thicker than the IDI's
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Old March 13th, 2019, 18:50   #27
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well, 37 gallons in and my first secondary filter plugged up haha
not too bad at 10 bucks apiece, but I'm thinking about a centrifuge

using BF7587 secondary filters and an 8psi lift pump, BTW
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Old March 14th, 2019, 11:45   #28
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Same time when I was using hydraulic oil my friend was using WMO and diesel 50:50. It weard out his injector pump and nozzles. He runned thru his DI engine 600 litres of WMO. He did not use any extra fitration.
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