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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW B5 Passat TDIs

VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old September 3rd, 2012, 16:47   #31
CharlieT
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Sorry to be a pain, but WRONG and WRONG. I am trying to clean up this thread so that we get the facts straight.

None of the BHWs have M14s. They are all M16 according to ETKA.
The very early B5 passat's (1999/2000) with gas engine had the M14 bolts. From 2001.5 onwards they were all M16.

So, for BHWs (2004/5), you need 2x 4B0407643A - M16 x 1.5 x 72mm
And you need to torque them to 140 ft lbs (190Nm) + 180 deg (1/2 turn)
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 16:59   #32
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So why does MoGolf's procedure have torque values for BOTH 14mm and 16mm bolts? Sorry, but I did misstate Ft-lbs instead of Nm in my posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieT View Post
Sorry to be a pain, but WRONG and WRONG. I am trying to clean up this thread so that we get the facts straight.

None of the BHWs have M14s. They are all M16 according to ETKA.
The very early B5 passat's (1999/2000) with gas engine had the M14 bolts. From 2001.5 onwards they were all M16.

So, for BHWs (2004/5), you need 2x 4B0407643A - M16 x 1.5 x 72mm
And you need to torque them to 140 ft lbs (190Nm) + 180 deg (1/2 turn)
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Last edited by 1854sailor; September 3rd, 2012 at 17:01.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 17:17   #33
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Mo Golf may have been confused. Don't you think it is strange to have two different bolt torques to preload a bearing? That is exactly what that bolt is there for. Charlie is correct.
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 19:41   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1854sailor View Post
So why does MoGolf's procedure have torque values for BOTH 14mm and 16mm bolts? Sorry, but I did misstate Ft-lbs instead of Nm in my posts.
Because the Bentley manual for B5s we all use is from 1999 to 2005 models, and so cover the early models with M14, and all the later models with M16.
The TDIs (BHW) were only made from 2004/5, and so only used M16 bolts.
Yes, you incorrectly quoted 190 ft lbs + 180, which likely result in a failed bolt and some disappointment for anyone who tries that.
The correct torque is 140 ft lbs (190Nm) + 180 deg
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Old September 3rd, 2012, 22:37   #35
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Mea culpa.
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Old September 4th, 2012, 05:21   #36
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Mine definitely has the M16 and 140 ft-lbs + 1/2 turn is friggin tight! I put new tires on the car saturday and so far for reasons unknown to me, the ASR light hasn't come back on with the Autozone axle. I am rebooting my factory axle just in case. What's the trick to separating the cv joint from the axle. I tried a slide hammer with it hooked onto the used bolt but no workie loosie. Just keep on hammering?
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Old September 4th, 2012, 05:25   #37
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You need to remove the clip under the boot, so the outer joint is not being 'pinched' in place, and then smack it with a hammer.
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Old September 4th, 2012, 11:25   #38
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Quote:
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You need to remove the clip under the boot, so the outer joint is not being 'pinched' in place, and then smack it with a hammer.
I didn't see a clip holding the cv joint under the boot when I got the boot cut off and disposed of. How is it made and where is it? does the whole cv joint come off the axle intact? I didn't see any lock ring in there.

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Old September 4th, 2012, 11:26   #39
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Look closer. You may have to wipe some grease out of the way to see it. I've replaced lots of B5 outer boots over the years, LOL.
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Old September 4th, 2012, 12:11   #40
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Thx Oilhammer-your patience with us "amateurs" must run thin. I need to up my intelligence a notch or two if I'm gonna graduate from my B4. If the B5.5 wasn't so darn smooth and quiet I wouldn't have to.
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Old September 4th, 2012, 12:25   #41
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Haha, no I'm here to help.... even if it does wear my patience thin sometimes .

You may have to give that joint a good WHACK. I lock the axle in a big [non-Chinese] bench vise, bolted to a big heavy [non-Chinese] workbench.
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Old September 4th, 2012, 16:34   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
Haha, no I'm here to help.... even if it does wear my patience thin sometimes .

You may have to give that joint a good WHACK. I lock the axle in a big [non-Chinese] bench vise, bolted to a big heavy [non-Chinese] workbench.
With a big heavy [non-Chinese] hammer??
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Old September 5th, 2012, 05:14   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1854sailor View Post
With a big heavy [non-Chinese] hammer??
You betcha!
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Old January 5th, 2019, 21:06   #44
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Are there any hints or tips for getting the passenger side axle out of the hub? Driver side came out in no time, but I can't get the tip of the passenger side axle to clear the hub no matter where I move the other end or where I position the steering wheel. I hate to start disconnecting stuff that will require an alignment when I'm done.
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Old January 5th, 2019, 21:52   #45
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Did you remove the heat shield on top of the axle flange transmission side? That will allow you to move the axle to the side to give you more room to get it out of hub.
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