What tools are needed?

To do a brake job on a 2003 Wagon? I have the caliper piston rotator/retractor, but what other tools do I need?

Reason for asking is that I'm going to do the job in a heated garage that's a couple miles from home. Once the car is apart, it's a long walk to get a tool that is at home, and I can't fit my tool box in the car (roll-along toolbox)

Basically, I'm asking for what tools to bring. Basic brake job, replacing pads and rotors. If it matters, 20th AE brakes on rear, 312mm Audi TT Roadster brakes on front.

Minor things like lift, jackstands, tools to remove wheels/tires, torque wrench, screwdrivers and a full set of metric sockets/wrenches, dead blow hammer, wire to hang calipers, are there already. But, I'm wondering if I need to bring anything else besides the brake tool? They have been bled in the past 7K, and the fluid has been changed at that time.

Allen wrenches? - what size?
What am I forgetting???

Thanks.

7mm allen key on the fronts for the standard calipers anyway, I can't remember what the rears are now.

From the "how to's"

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=483838

Bring a wire brush to clean up the sliding surfaces, brake cleaner, and sil-glide to lubricate the guide pins.

the little rotor attachment screw can be trouble. Use an impact driver and/or be prepared to drill the head off

You can take your wheel off and make sure you have the tools to take them off from there. Easy job. Your biggest issue will be if the calipers can't be reused to to rusty pistons,etc). Don't even have to crack open the brake line bleeders for the job. If you have a shim kit for the rear that will be the hardest is making sure it is aligned again. The special tool to do the job is really easy. If you attempt without the tool you are SOL on the rears. Might want to make sure you can get the front electrical connector off as well for the warning light. But that won't stop you from driving. Just the light will stay on till the other one is connected.

Channel Lock pliers, just in case. If the bleeder screws have never been opened, then I would do a search on what people do to unfreeze them. Some anti seize around the inside of the wheel so they don't get stuck in place. For the rear, you will also need a thin walled 15mm open end wrench if you don't already have one. I found for the rears you can leave the parking cable attached, and the carrier does not have to be removed.

You shouldn't even need to use the bleeder screws though unless flushing the brake fluid (which is every 2 years should be done).

Thanks guys! Brake fluid was flushed 7K ago, and when the calipers were changed 107K ago (that's when the big brake kit was installed) Marty and I anti-siezed bolts & rotor screws that could be problematic in the future. Have extra screws to hold on the rotors, and an impact screwdriver.

The calipers should be good, while they do use salt here, it's not as bad as other places, and I'm pretty good at washing the salt off of the car during the winter.

No shim kit was needed when we put the brakes on.

Thanks again! I should have everything now.

FWIW, here's what stock front rotors look like vs. the 312's that went on there: