ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

Update

Update EDIT: 1/20/19, This exhaust hanging set-up was a disaster as David H alluded to in his comments. After many disappointments, I completely replaced it with a SS set-up from the Turbo out to the CAT as set-up here. It has a swivel donut and hangs on two rubber mounts. I also used the quick connect joints. The new SS system is awesome.

Yesterday, I spent most of the day working with the wiring on the left side back to the InterCooler area. Refer to the pics above. I modified and re-bundled the main OE Vanagon tail light wiring assembly as well as custom mounted it a little lower (no pics right now). Also, I cut and lengthened the left tail light wire/plug to accomodate the Plexiglas.

Today, I basically finished the exhaust system mounting. As you may recall, the earlier attempt fabricating the exhaust system was not satisfactory. Anyway, I did a re-make a few weeks ago but just now got around to mounting it. I moved the CAT more to the right (looking from the rear). That move will allow me to install the Vanagon style oil filler pipe on the oil pan (access thru the license plate hole). Also, the move sure limited me on the muffler......as the pics will show.

Comments are at the top of each photo!

Okay, as you know, the exhaust system must be mounted to the engine (do not hang anything off the body or frame). That was the challenge considering how I modified the Down-pipe (see previous posts earlier in this Thread).

The pic below shows the right side exhaust mounting tube (support brace, 3/4" square tube) bolted to the Engine motor mount bracket near the motor mount. Although this approach does seem quite stiff and secure, I do plan to add a brace down from the engine accessory bracket.


The pic below shows the exhaust support brace bolted to the top of the CAT. Although it looks to be drooping or sagging, it is not. That is basically the angle of the support brace.


Below is another shot from a distance.


The pic below shows the mounting hanger on the left rear corner of the engine. I do plan to trim off the extra metal sticking out there. I wanted 2" pipe, but the dude did the fabrication using 1 7/8". So, it will have to do for now.........something to change in the future! I do plan to fabricate and install a heat shield to protect the Turbo Actuator.


The pic below shows the exhaust as it crosses from left to right at the rear of the engine. You can see that the exhaust is slightly higher than the oil pan except for the CAT.


This next pic is a little farther to the right. You can see one of the mis-haps to this old Vanagon.....just surface rust due to a bump. And, that's my Schnauzer (Scruff)....needs a hair cut and shave!


The pic below shows the end of the muffler and a very short exhaust pipe....may add one of those chrome thingys on the end. Notice the up-swing of the body gives an appearance that the pipe/muffler is drooping....not so! At a distance, looking at the "whole thing" it looks pretty good~!


Looking down the barrel of the muffler.


This is another pic looking down the barrel of the muffler from another angle. You can see the bottom of the system is roughly level with the oil pan.


The pic below sort of puts the exhaust system in perspective relative to the rear end of the Vanagon.........


Although the system appears in these pics to be a little low, it is actually about the same level of the OE system with the gasser engine. Other than one section of pipe being 1 7/8 inch, I'm pretty well pleased with how it turned out.

I feel your exhaust system isn't going to last too long. Remember, the triangle is your friend.

As it is right now you have a lot of unsupported items that are subject to vibration. Remember the ruler hanging off the table - the less that is hanging out the harder it is to make it vibrate. If your exhaust vibrates it will come apart very quickly. I see that close to the turbo you have a flex coupling, so that is going to HELP with the vibrations, also the resonator post cat is an unsupported weight and will also HELP with the vibrations as well.

I have built exhaust systems for the Vanagon using very basic parts with great success. Here is how I would do it.

- Attach a 180 degree mandrel bend U pipe to the turbo so that output points straight back.
- Where you have your flex coupling now, attach your cat converter to the 180 degree U pipe. Use the four bosses on the engine at that location to build a bracket system that holds the cat to the engine so that it CAN'T MOVE. I used a pair big exhaust clamps / ubolts to hold the cat to a 1x1 square tubing structure that attaches directly to the engine. Remember triangles in the assembly so it can't move.
- After the cat, get a 90 degree bend and put the exhaust either straight down to the road or out the driver side of the van.

For an exhaust system on the Vanagon / T3, less is more. Things that are unsupported or allowed to flex WILL and then you will be making another system rather quickly.

Good luck with the project.

David, I appreciate the comments and insight. I'll take me some coat hanger wire just in case. If it begins to break apart on the way back from Alaska, I'll make a detour onto the Cassiar Highway then on down to Quesnel, BC and let you give it the re-make!

The task was not complete as depicted in those photos and as reflected in the comments I made.

The top of the CAT has two securely welded tabs that the main support brace is bolted to (shown in the pics of last update). Today, I added another brace coming off the accessory bracket down to the main support brace. This second brace has three points of bolt up. Also, I feel rather confident that the welder did an excellent job welding the 7 lb muffler to the CAT. I can lift up on the end of the muffler and the entire engine moves in it's mounts without any flexing of the exhaust system.

The Flex-pipe is welded to the modified Down-pipe and on the rear end, it has a welded bracket which is bolted to the block. That bracket has a support bracket bolted to it which is bolted to the block at a different point (can be seen in the pics of the last update). (Go back to page 20, post #294 to see how the Down-pipe was modified.) Although the pipe coming off the Flex-pipe has a modified 2 inch clamp on it, I intend to tack weld the pipe in at least four places. Also, it is possible to add a third bracket brace to the end of the flex-pipe, if necessary.

There isn't room for the CAT between the engine block and the Actuator/Turbo. I originally was going to mount the CAT directly at the end of the engine parallel to the harmonic balancer. Then, I saw at least two problems. One, there would be too much heat on the Serp belt and other engine parts due to available space. Secondly, that location presented a problem with installing the oil filler tube on the end of the oil pan (Vanagon style with access thru the license plate hole).

Well, I was going to snap a few pics to show some of my accomplishments today but realized the chip wasn't in the camera. Tomorrow, I plan to finish the InterCooler and associated items .....wrapping up that part.

I need to install the fuel tank, fuel lines, etc..........

The front rotors, down to the bearings, are off and need to be installed.....stablizer bar and new bushings are yet to be installed.......... and, the Axles and CV joints are not in either... No oil in the tranny! Petty much all small stuff compared to all the other things!

The gauge pod/gauges need to be mounted and set-up!

Lastly, that's about it, unless there's something I'm missing. Oh, I need to address the AC system!

Getting close!

Update

Well, as usual, I didn't work on anything that I had planned for today .

I did tiddy-up the coolant pipes and heater pipes under the Van with ties. And, while under there, I inspected the brake lines from front to back. I also installed the rear heater piping (under the back seat), supported the wiring over the tranny by use of supports made from re-cycled Serpentine Belt and re-coil springs (did the AC lines as well), finished "snaking" all the engine wiring harness in place, and sorted thru a ton of parts, bolts, screws, etc.

.........Oh, and I did a lot of head scratching too~!

Seems I just wasn't into it today!

Sounds like you got a lot accomplished. It's always the smaller things that take the longest and seems like nothing gets accomplished.
I must admit, every time I open your thread up I expect it to be the "I got it started" post . Keep on keeping on...

Jon

This afternoon/evening, I finished installing (roughed in) the heater piping over top of the tranny to the back of the engine head. I need some gaskets and an O-ring to finish the job.

This is sort of unique for a couple of reasons. The TDI engine that come in the cars with a manual tranny have three Coolant warming Glow Plugs mounted in a flange on the rear of the head. Well, there isn't room for that flange due to the engine bay body in that area. So, I've used a small flange from an old VW Rabbit diesel engine (pics in earlier posts) to bolt on in place of the GP unit. Then I have placed the GP unit further down stream which places it over the tranny.

Also, after customizing an oil filler tube from a VW Vanagon 2.0 air cool engine, I "tack" welded it to the base. Tomorrow, I'll have my welder to finish the job..........so, with that piece finished, I can finally mount the oil pan!

...................any thoughts or suggestions on a "cover" for the engine (remember, it protrudes above the deck)? Any ideas on making a custom cover? I've kept this in the back of my mind almost from day one! I have a few ideas. What's your? Show me some pics!

For your engine cover I would cut the hole in the lid then weld 1"x1/16" steel vertically around the whole hole, that piece of steel would be welded to the edge of the lid. I would then "cap" that raised hole and add some small square tubular steel supports on the bottom where they would fit. You of course might need to make it taller than 1".

Andy I have pics, but I am not able to load it. Please let me know the procedure.

Update

Here are some "random" pics providing follow-up relating to previous updates. I'll attempt to catagorize them.

All comments are at the top of the photos.

Exhaust system pics of the additional bracing that was mentioned in the recent post.

The pic below shows the "additional" support brace coming off the Engine Accessory bracket from behind the Power Steering pump pulley ........notice that it has two points for bolting......... If you look close, you can see the two magic marker "marks" used to guide me in taking off metal so the brace would fit flush without touching the PS pump.


In the pic below, you can see the brace extending down to the "main" support brace for the CAT/Muffler of the exhaust system (refer to recent post about the exhaust system). Also, notice that it is "resting" on the Engine Accessory Bracket just above the AC compressor (it is also bolted there).


The pic below is similar to the one above. The point where the brace is bolted above the AC compressor is more visible!


In the pic below, the brace is visible where it bolts to the "main" support brace. Crappy welding by yours truely .......but, it will hold! (I'm learning)


Oil Pan is depicted in the next three pics.

The pic below shows the "modified" oil filler tube bolted to the rear end of the oil pan. This "tube" come from a Vanagon Air-cooled 2.0 engine. The tube will be coated with high temp engine paint.


This is another angle .........notice the Serp belt that wasn't there in previous photos...?


Another angle


Broken Coolant Flange The following pics are of the coolant flange that is bolted to the end of the engine head ............. I broke it! A replacement is over $100.00. The plastic replacement is under $10.00 but has the nipple for the heater hose going in the wrong direction.
So.......... I had it repaired.



Looking inside ............. Used a dremil to clean out the groove for the O-ring.


InterCooler

This single pic of the InterCooler shows where it is located........directly behind the left rear wheel. I will install a shield over it that will be sealed along the top and sides with "chalk" to provide protection. The supports visible there will be used to help support the shield.


Standby for a series of more random photos in the next post!

Update continued

This continued update shows what I had to do to the AC Compressor today to make it more user friendly with the vintage Vanagon system.

All comments are at the top of the photos.

Basically, the later model AC Compressors have an internal valve (Refrigerant Control Valve[RCV]) that sort of takes the place of a Temp Sensor located in the fan housing under the dash. To make it operate like the old system, the valve must be removed. This procedure will essentially convert variable displacement compressor into a fixed displacement compressor.

This pic shows the AC Compressor with the end off.....the RCV sits in the hole there in the center (not shown in this photo)

There in the center of this pic is the RCV (brass thingy). The shiny nut holds the RCV in place and secures retainer for the Reed system!

This is a pic of all the pieces parts.......notice the retainer (star shaped) at the top of the photo in the background.......the nut holds it on the Reeds.

In this pic, you can see the 7/16 inch bolt with nut tightly securing the retainer on the Reeds. The RCV was just replaced....

This is a pic of the end cap of the AC compressor

Here the end cap is being lowered down in place to be bolted back on.

To see a write-up on the RCV valve, go to the link below and do a search on Compressor Internal Control Valve. The scroll down the page until you see the article on Decreased cooling in GM and VW cars and trucks.... click on it and read!...has pics too!
www.aircondition.com <<<< EDIT: that link is no longer direct to the story (edit date: 8/19/17)... try this link >>>>>
http://www.aircondition.com/sitesearch.htm?cx=partner-pub-9410776084731845%3A1zrycoiv7f7&cof=FORID%3A10&q=RCV&sa=Search&siteurl=www.aircondition.com%2F&ref=forums.tdiclub.com%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D276798%26page%3D35&ss=4079j2886059j9
Edit: Credit goes to rsxsr (Mark) and DanG144 (Dan) for their input and research on this topic! There is another Thread in this section pertaining to the topic which was started by Mark. And, seems that Dan has a Thread in another section pertaining to the topic.

thanks for the link on the RCV Andy....going to use the delete on my truck for onboard air

Update

Here is a series of random pics I snapped yesterday.

Comments are at the top of each pic.

This is a pic of the vacuum lines/system mounted on the left side of the engine bay. The N75 valve is there in the corner. Everything is "as" it come off the firewall of the Jetta. I located the vacuum reserve tank in the area over the tranny.


This pic is a little farther back on the left side of the engine bay. You are looking at the black pressure discharge pipe off the Turbo, the re-done wiring bundle and the left side engine mounting bracket (red). With the Intake mounted, this photo could not have been taken.


This pic shows the Turbo and discharge pipe on the left side looking toward the front of the vehicle. (No clamps yet)


This is another pic of the Turbo discharge looking toward the right side of the vehicle from behind the left rear wheel.


This pic shows the "coolant filter" in the small circulating pipe. I noticed that the head and piping had a lot of "dust" from being dry so long. I'll give this a try and see how it works. Edit: Below, I did use a metal filter which in hindsight, I suppose was useless.


This is another shot showing the coolant filter. Notice the bare "nipple" sticking off the larger coolant line. Not shown in this photo, I taped it for a long screw to plug it. I used a sealing washer too! This may be one more place to bleed off air when I start the engige.


This is shot looking up from the right side of the engine.


This pic is in the area above the tranny (forward of the engine bay). Here, you can see the back of the engine head (Rabbit Diesel coolant flange there), short section of pipe to the coolant Glow Plugs and a 90 degree (modified Rabbit engine stuff). The coolant pipe goes over and behind the starter (blacky thingy). The red thing is the slave cylinder for the clutch. (I should have taken care of the surface rust!)


This is another shot of the area above the tranny. You can see how the heater coolant pipe arches above the starter ........also, notice the supports for the various wire bundles, coolant pipes, AC lines, etc. Each support has a spring on it.


One more pic of the area above the tranny.



Today, I installed the Temp Probe in the Exhaust Gas port for the EGR. I don't like it there.........but, I guess that will do for now (no pics). I also installed the Intake (for the last time). I also fabricated bracing/support for the Turbo oil line.

Until my Pink Coolant gets here, I will be working up front on the overhead AC unit. It needs some TLC, including removal of the Expansion Valve for inspection and cleaning. Gauge pods will pretty much be the last thing in the front area to finish.

Don't forget to ground your coolant glow plug housing.

Why not bypass the n18 altogether? Leave it hooked electrically to avoid the cel but remove the vacuum and vent lines.

Greengeeker, I actually forgot about grounding the GP assembly. I was mindful of that need early on, but just forgot..........Thanks for the reminder.

Through VCDS, I will do the EGR re-program (much lower duty cycle). Then I will plug the vacuum line that goes no where. My car is set-up that way and never throws a code!

EGR gone!
Remember this pic?

And this pic?

Yup I remembered...hence the suggestion to remove the possible vacuum leaks.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=290286 has a good diagram for your vacuum system, without the EGR.

Hey Andy....the "coolant filter" you have there will be subject to the same pressure as the rest of the cooling system....add the heat and it may not be able to handle it....glad to see you're in the final stages....I always love this part of a project

Dan thanks for the link........excellent info! I'll make the mod!



Jimbote, actually, I plan to use a metal filter with steel threaded fittings. But, I'm not sure whether the element will be up to the heat either.

I noticed that all the piping and T-stat area of the block, as well as the coolant flange area of the head, has a white coat and/or film on it (flakes off easily). I do not have time to be flushing an engine block or a bunch of hoses. So, I thought the filter method my be helpful, at least during the first few miles of ironing-out the bugs. I've seen coolant filter kits in auto magazines and considered it to be a good idea.

...........well, today I'll not get much done! I have several errands to deal with, among other things!

Although yesterday was basically a zero day, I did accomplish a few things before sunset...

I removed the entire AC unit up front (for those that don't know, the Vanagon AC Unit hangs overhead). So, today, I am going to try my hand on using fiber-glass repair of the cracked plastic unit. Also, I will be installing new AC O-rings, expansion valve, and insulation when it goes back together.

Engine:
Fuel lines
Coolant and O-ring for back of head flange
Vent system for the CCV ............ wow, I'm still scratching my head on this one!
Fab a dip-stick and tube to insert in the filler cap of the Vanagon style oil filler (at license plate)
Install fuel tank and connect fuel lines
.................. pretty close to hitting the starter after these items are addressed!

YOU NEED TO VIDEO THE STARTUP! Great work Andy! Been following this build with great interest.

I dont know what your state inspections (if any) or emissions laws dictate, but why not run the CCV vent into the exhaust and use the exhaust flow to help pull CC gasses out?

Extractor

mlemorie said:

I dont know what your state inspections (if any) or emissions laws dictate, but why not run the CCV vent into the exhaust and use the exhaust flow to help pull CC gasses out?

Click to expand...

I did give that some thought, sort of after the fact. I ran an extractor on my "mountain" buggy!

Does anyone have a link to a "weld-in" extractor. It is really not too late...cause, I still haven't addressed the CCV system (nothing in place).

My state should be proud that I am running the CAT.... No inspections in my neck of the woods (I have about 60 acres of forested land to off-set my carbon foot print).

One other thought on venting, since I'll not be using the dip-stick tube, could that be an "additional" place to remove crankcase gases (extractor or into the intake system)?

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/O2-Rings-and-Weld-Bungs/E-Vac-Scavenger

That should be a link to one that I just ordered. Hopefully it works well.

I dont see why you couldnt use the dipstick tube as an addition scavenging point, although without an internal baffle Im not sure if it would draw out more oil mist with it. You could probably run it through a seperator and set a drain up to drain back into the pan. Somewhere in the Mk.IV forum here there was a thread where the OP adapted BMW cyclonic oil seperators to work on his ALH. They appear to be fairly compact and have a drain on the bottom already, and no filters to worry about changing or cleaning.

Update

Here are a few pics of the AC system of the Vanagon. These pics do not give justice to the amount of work I've done since pulling the unit out. I completely disassembled, cleaned and repaired all the breaks/cracks. I used JB Weld, Fiberglass and aluminum, as well as additional screws, support brackets, pop-rivets, two-side tape and foam insulation tape. The overhead units were marginal at best just from a mounting standpoint.........then add shotty work, and.....well, you get my drift.

All comments are at the top of the photos

This pic shows the end of the duct that runs forward to the front distribution unit. Notice the aged and broken plastic. That old two-sided tape had to be heated and scrapped off, bit by bit. I replaced the broken plastic with the backing off a "scrap book" folder, which worked fine. (No photos of finished product. I was seriously involved trying to finish-up.)


This is a pic of the electricals of the switch controls in the forward unit. I snapped this pic to provide a visual for re-installing......... As stated above, I completely disassembled and cleaned out all the debris.



This is a pic of the forward unit "laying" on the dash of the Vanagon. It is almost ready to install. Yeah, I know, that's a mess! (It's coming together, though!)


This is a pic of the main overhead unit. You are looking at the front side where the forward duct comes off there in the center and goes to the forward unit. Those wires run inside the duct to the control unit. This pic is "going back" together after the total disassembly!


This is a pic of the left side of the overhead unit above and behind the driver's seat. The AC lines and wires have a cover that goes over them. That thing is very heavy and tough for one person to hold-up and bolt in place~! The single red wire to the right there is for the "overhead map light" that a previous owner installed. I removed all the old wire and replaced it (and repaired the swivel mechanism of the light base..).


This pic is of a "bolt point" just above the rear-view mirror for the forward unit. The OE installation failed to provide for proper securing. I added an aluminum bracket with a hole in it for the center support screw! No more sagging and cracked housing! The cut in the head liner will be covered by the forward unit of the AC system.


Well, as I said, these few pics do not give the job justice!

Anyway, I am glad that part of the AC system is finished. Tomorrow, I plan to install the dry unit. I also will be removing the pressure AC line at the compressor to add an aftermarket line clamp. I noticed that the line was loose in the factory crimp! So, the crimp must be "ground" loose to remove it and then trim off the line just a little before installing the clamp~! This method has worked on other old systems in the past~!

It took about all morning to remove and replace the AC dryer. Gees, what a rusty mess and a terrible location (behind the left front wheel).....been there and done that with my ol' '83 Vanagon with the Air-cooled engine.

Well, anyway, I've changed O-rings at the dryer, at the compressor, and at the evaporator (expansion valve replaced too).

So, I just now pulled a 30" vacuum using a brand new set of manifold gauges! I let it pull for about 15 minutes and it seems to be holding. I'm taking a lunch break and will see how it has done in another 30 minutes.

I did order the E-Vac Scavenger Kit for the crankcase ventilation! There will be sort of a problem. The hose comes in AN sizes. The closest hose size to the CCV puck on the valve pan is a -12 AN which is less than 0.70. The barb on the CCV puck is 0.94 and the pipe beyond the barb is 0.875. So, if the hose will not expand to fit the CCV puck exit pipe, I'll have to go to plan B or C........... Adapter or Modification of the puck exit pipe!

Okay, apparently the AC system is good to go! It has held between 28 and 30 inches of vacuum for the last 5 hours. The gauge varied apparently based on the temp in the garage! I'm pleased with that! Hopefully, there's not much crud left-over from the old R-12 days. I will be using oil for R-134 that is compatible with the oil that was used with the R-12 system.

I went ahead and installed the new stainless brake hoses up front as well as cleaned, inspected, and packed the front wheel bearings........Wow, what a neck breaking job trying to see thru no-line bi-focals.

Tomorrow, I plan to install the rear brake hoses, connect the hose to the clutch slave at the tranny, re-install the shifter lever to the tranny (remember, I pulled the engine just a few days ago), install the oil pan (for the last time, and with glue), and ...........whatever else I can get done!

Still scratching my head about the engine cover!

Oh, and Brian at Verocious Motorsports, as well as other staff there, have been most helpful with the Scavenger Kit and necessary piping and fittings. Check 'em out at www.verociousmotorsports.com

AndyBees said:

Oh, and Brian at Verocious Motorsports, as well as other staff there, have been most helpful with the Scavenger Kit and necessary piping and fittings. Check 'em out at www.verociousmotorsports.com

Click to expand...

The next time you talk to them, tell them you know me. I get all my fab supplies from them and they know me on a voice basis haha. Definitely A+ company to deal with.

Okay, stirring late this morning............

Well, finally, the design of the engine cover finally "hit" me this morning.....Wow, an awesome relief.

This may be pre-mature, but I will do the drawing and jig today and take it to my welder this afternoon. He's very interested in my project and has been quite helpful with my odd demands!

Whitedog, I need to call Brian this morning, I'll mention you to him!