'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

e*clipse

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May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
I had no problems, however:

1) It depends on the state, and that state's emissions rules.
2) It depends on the age of the vehicle and engine in question.

My truck and engine were pre-1998, so I slipped through the cracks. I know here in California, post 1998 diesels are subject to smog checks. This could make getting it licensed more difficult.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Gas to Diesel

I wanted to ask if anyone that did a swap from gas to diesel vehicle if you had any trouble registering and getting inspection sticker on your vehicles I have a 2000 dodge dakota that I have a 2002 sprinter 5cyl mercedes cdi engine tranny and almost all sprinter electrical I have not finished my project but am close
truthseeker, I can only speak to CA's smog rules. Diesel vehicles under 14,000 lbs, and 1998 and newer are subject to CA smog testing. 1997 and older are smog exempt. Keep your EGR and emissions devices in good working order if you're in CA.

Not a whole lot new. The 1Z's vacuum pump with the double T fitting and in-line one way valve linked up nicely to the Toyota brake booster with a 9 mm to 13 mm adapter. I'll connect the N75 sender to one of those Ts (thanks to E*clipse reminding me of that). The power steering hard cooling line (little loop that runs behind the grill, where the intercooler is now going) is bypassed for the moment:


PS hose with yellow lettering connects to the steering box directly right now. I am pointing to the power steering pump - the reservoir is also 16mm thread, so they match nicely. I used the Passat's power steering line (below, right), as the Toyota's (below, on the left) threaded but didn't seat properly.


(Edit: Have a custom high-pressure side power steering line made up before you start the engine. I did not, and my spotless engine bay and engine etc... was spattered filthy with CHF 11 S power steering fluid when the high pressure line blew off shortly after my first start up...)


Cooling lines look like they will all tie together with the Toyota radiator nicely.

I thought I had found a coolant flange that would work. I gambled $3 and lost. Right design, wrong dimensions:

But the black piece is shaped exactly like I'll need. The stock coolant glowplug fitting end is 25mm, and it needs to be adapted to go onto the 18mm heater core. You can see the firewall clearance gained by the design of the lower piece: nice and low profile. I'll fab one but with the wiring loom mounts built in off to the side a little so as to ease access.
 
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LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Too bad that coolant flange didn't work out, that would have been a clean and easy fix.

I used the Toyota power steering line and have not had any problems, the VW line does look like it is a little shorter and fits better. I'll have to see if i still have the VW one kicking around.

From the looks of it your oil filter housing has lots of clearance, why the need for the AEB one?

Looks great so far!

Luke
 

cumminsfromthecold

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Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
"Why the need for the AEB?"

Well, if I can find one that's relatively inexpensive, I may get it to have on hand just in case. I may pass it on to whoever needs one next, too, if indeed the motor mounts end up working with stock oil filter housing. That will be determined soon...

I found a late '80s Volvo oil pressure light switch. It's off an 89 Volvo 240 4 cylinder gasser, I am pretty sure, and through Napa Auto, it's PN OP6066:
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ECHOP6066_0167730749

The 1Z's stock gauge is M10 x 1, and so is this baby, so I am giving it a shot for $16. I considered a mechanical gauge here, but the space between the head and the firewall is too minimal. One of the nice things about this sensor is that the metal tab that the stock old Toyota wire will connect to can be bent 90 degrees downward, saving me space. Obviously a good, tight, insulated connection is in order. Thanks for this tip, Luke!

Welding up fuel filter and coolant expansion tank brackets in a couple days.
 
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LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Rememeber that the engine has 2 oil pressure switches, one at the back of the head and one on the oil filter housing. I left the one on the back of the head unplugged and used the hole in the oil filter housing because of the space problem you mention.

If you are thinking about running a mechanical gauge you might try this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/360023/10002/-1?parentProductId=887192

It is a dual pole VDO pressure sender that will replace the pressure switch in the oil filter housing. This one triggers the oil pressure light at 7psi and has a range of 150psi. It's $26 and will at least give you the option of using a gauge later.


Luke
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Mounts, Volvo Oil Pressure Sensor, & Turbo Question

Tom began welding the motor mounts today. :) Pulled the engine and transmission and made space for him to fill in tomorrow the tack welds made and gussets he began today. They look great and should be plenty strong. I look forward to the second opinions here, truly, as (sing it all together now) I've never done this before...

I was reminded, upon reviewing the Toyota's torqued old rubber crossmember mount, that I need to change that baby out. It's an unaddressed weak point and troubles me some. Trailgear has one, too:
TGHD Heavy Duty Transfer Case Mount
http://www.trail-gear.com/crossmembers
Same price as Marlin Crawler's HD version, but with a "Lifetime No Questions Asked Warranty"?! Yeah, I'm getting this one (edit: and did, and it's great). More vibrations, perhaps, as its a polyurethane mount, but this truck's not about comfort to begin with. That crossmember mount main centering bolt on the '84 Toyota truck is 27mm, and awkwardly accessed, for what it's worth...

I replaced the oil pressure sensor in the back of the head with the Volvo sensor, which is a little longer, but which has a tab I can bend (no PhotoBucket at the moment, so pics later). Like LukeWilson points out, this switch is one of two on the 1Z. I believe this sensor is what will work with the stock Toyota oil-pressure-too-high idiot light. The re-design of the coolant flange below this oil switch is getting custom fabbed, too.

Ok, turbo question (it's a stock Garrett GT-15). In the 2nd picture here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-1...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf6765b40

and then here's my own pic in my shop:


look very closely at the triangular gasket. The gasket clearly doesn't fit. The main center hole/port is askew where it should be - a lot. I can probably make the bolt holes work, but the gasket's main hole/port is clearly significantly off center.

There was no gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold when I removed the turbo.

So, with that said, should I use this gasket? :confused:

Note - vendor says 'yes.' They also said they'd understand a return. The gasket doesn't fit. It's sold as fitting. Best case, it's a gasket that can sort of be made to fit. Interesting... Thanks for any thoughts. (Edit: ultimately, I used this old gasket and noticed a much better seal between exhaust downpipe and turbo.)
 
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Goldguru

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Location
BC Canada
TDI
98 tracker conversion AHU

But the black piece is shaped exactly like I'll need. The stock coolant glowplug fitting end is 25mm, and it needs to be adapted to go onto the 18mm heater core. You can see the firewall clearance gained by the design of the lower piece: nice and low profile. I'll fab one but with the wiring loom mounts built in off to the side a little so as to ease access.[/QUOTE]

here is where Most conversions go WRONG..coolant Pipe from rear of cyl Head MUST go directly FULL size Back into WP Lower hose..( this applies Heat to the T-Stat for correct operation)use oil cooler for your Heater ..VW Heater Core has Much Larger Flow than any other manufacturer Kinda why your trying to adapt..doing so will lead to Head Gasket failure....Port from rear Of Head MUST have full flow to water Pump No restrictions..U will notice that upper rad hose has a Down hose to WP & has port has a small 5/8 hose T in it route that thru heater core & oil cooler to Upper WP small inlet.( this routing Is blocked WHEN T-STAT fully open)..All Be Good then.. if U look close @ water pump desing U will see Upper port get closed Off when T-stat Opens..lower port stays Full Flow Thats Where rear Head Outlet MUST Go....Or go review a intact VW cooling system to understand Why..


so to review rear of Head to lower wp rear inlet near there ( THERE WAS A 5/8 T) put 5/8T fitting that will Be Suck side for Heater/oil cooler....
frt/upper rad outlet Down Hose lower 5/8 oultet route that thru heater, oil cooler( thats the Push side) Back to lower w/p Suction 5/8 from rear of Head.. one Must Remember VW has a reverse Cooling system Unlike your Yota..
 
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e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
^^^^^
Wow! Yes, me too. :eek:

Thank you for pointing this out. It hasn't caused problems yet - but it's one of those "what the phrack" type problems...

Thanks!

- E*clipse
 

RBX

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Location
Baltimore
TDI
none
I recall reading another TDI swap and there was a complaint about the heat not being hot in the vehicle...now i know. Cuz if i don't have good heat, i'm not going to be driving i the winter unless i have too.
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Heat for the cab is really not a problem. It takes a while to warm up, but the defrost & everything works fine on mine.

- And that's not just for California. :rolleyes: Our last big road trip was to Southeast Idaho for X-mas, and it was well below freezing. :)
 

LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I can second this. I will have a hot cab in about 10km's or less even in -30 C weather here. That is without the coolant heaters either.

Luke
 

410onefour

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
Same here, heat was never an issue. It was -30'C quite a few times this winter and had no trouble. The windshield would be defrosted in about 10 minutes of idling on the coldest days.
 

RBX

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Location
Baltimore
TDI
none
This is good to hear guys, I really like my 'burn the skin off your feet heat' Toyota is famous for.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
1Z TDI conversion, coolant system adaptation, AEB oil stand fit

Holy cow - thanks Goldguru! That's invaluable information. :) I have looked at my cooling system in a whole new light, and since Luke Wilson friggin' shipped me an AEB oil stand (thanks Luke!!), it's even easier to look at it all anew.

Like the motor itself when in the engine bay, it barely fits, but fits nonetheless.


The filter touches the bellhousing ever so slightly, but it's not a critical spot, and I can grind 1/4" off and have sweet clearance. Less certain about it in the engine bay, but I think that will be ok, too. It eases access to the driver's side three point motor mount:


You can see the three triangle-oriented motor mount holes.

And, you can see the crazy hose I will have to find in order to follow Goldguru's golden advice.

Here's some oil filter housing, aka oil stand, juxtapositions, just in the interest of familiarizing people with the two. The AEB filter is the one with the angle.



Another angle:


Another:


And one more:



Here's the Volvo oil pressure sensor I mentioned in an earlier post - the VW stock oil pressure sensor is on the right. The Volvo sensor will stick out more and be closer to the firewall than I'd like, but it will work.


Beginning to consider and start fabbing the accelerator pedal adapter. Final coolant flange piece will arrive Monday. We'll see what gets done with accelerator pedal adapter over the weekend. :eek: Thanks for everyone's input, as always.
 
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LukeWilson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
If the firewall clearance is too tight, you might want to put the sensor in the oil filter flange. I seem to remember there being more room there than up behind the head.

Any pics of the engine mounts yet?

Luke
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Engine Mounts

So far, all that's in are the welded plates on the frame:

Driver's side


Passenger's side:




Sooooo ready to put the engine in one last time and get her running. Quality takes time, though, so I am just trying to be patient with the welder's schedule. (Edit, April 2014: despite being highly attentive, the engine will come out again when you lose a throwout bearing or the delicate rear crankshaft main seal, as I did, requiring two additional engine/transmission assembly removals. Expect it. Design accordingly.) I guess the delays give me time to clean stuff and knock out the myriad little details...
 
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Goldguru

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Location
BC Canada
TDI
98 tracker conversion AHU
U guys Are more than welcome yer gonna be really crying when U see my oil filter adaptor..lol 4.0 ford with stock AHU full 90 deg with oil cooler & full size filter.Heheh ..remmeber T-stat cannot open in reverse system If the Is NO coolant flow...also do not remove any Haet from coolant that is making T-stat OPEN the smaller rad be Just fine untill Heavy ambient temp or low speeds Get Ya...got about a doz more wires to do on 98 tracker..lol..it gettind closer..
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Cooling

...remmeber T-stat cannot open in reverse system If the Is NO coolant flow...also do not remove any Haet from coolant that is making T-stat OPEN the smaller rad be Just fine untill Heavy ambient temp or low speeds Get Ya...
Goldguru, I just want to make sure I understand you. If there is no coolant flow, the thermostat can't open in reverse?

And if I were to run the coolant line from that flange coming out of the back of the head and into my heater core, I would be confusing the thermostat because it wouldn't know how much heat is really present?

I'm planning on using the stock Toyota radiator, which you likely know is smaller than the '97 Passat's. Eventually (a couple months) I will be adding the fan from a Ford Thunderbird. I just need the thing running first so I can get to work around here.

Thanks!
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re coolant

Goldguru - "key point is the blue taped pipe/hose u show in your pic run that into cooler then out from there to heater core..then back into the T of Lower t-stat housing ( T from Large Hose @ rear of Cyl Head) from what i can see."

Ok, I think I understand. Thanks again. I am a Veteran Newbie at all this, and what you're describing is pretty different than the cooling system diagram I am working with:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=422399&postcount=2
(I think this is from an ALH automatic.)

I've completely deleted the EGR/cooler.

If I understand this correctly, I will have a little less heat in the truck, but that's fine with me.
 

Goldguru

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Location
BC Canada
TDI
98 tracker conversion AHU
the diagram U are using is for the wrong engine.from your pics your engine is an1Z or AHU..so throw out that referance it will only confuse U..goal is rear of head to lower T-stat port.(this port does not close when T-stat opens it also provides direct Heat to the T-stat Pellet) the upper port @ t-stat gets closed when t-stat opens that is the port to use for the Suck for oil cooler & heater core. the push comes from the pipe with blue tape in your pic..only other thing from the rear of head is to incorp the overflow bottle Kinda Ness Evil with reverse flow systems..Keeps coolant in circulation when a leak developes.

Here is the Correct picture..

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2505353#post2505353

Goldguru, I just want to make sure I understand you. If there is no coolant flow, the thermostat can't open in reverse?
(Cooling systems.)
Yes that was a Late Nite typo.no coolant to wax pellet, T-stat wont open engine will boil trapped cooloant(whats remaining in the block for there isnt enough to complete Bypass flow to open T-stat..Rad can be full but it cannot get into engine with t-stat closed.this Is the reason for the Overflow bottle Which U are going to have to include in your Piping.)

And if I were to run the coolant line from that flange coming out of the back of the head and into my heater core, I would be confusing the thermostat because it wouldn't know how much heat is really present?
Correct so Delayed opening which in turn
will develope hot spots .
If I understand this correctly, I will have a little less heat in the truck, but that's fine with me.
Heat will not be a problem.coolant in oil cooler & heater core will still Be engine temp..so heat from heater would be same as it was with Toy under the hood.

what we are concerned with here is maintaining designed in coolant Bypass,which keeps reverse flow systems happy.
 
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JayTee013

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2011
Location
Union, CT
TDI
2000 jetta TDI, 1992 toyota Pickup TDI project
Do these same principles apply to the ALH. I'm assuming they do but haven't had time to compare my motor to what you are saying. Haven't really researched tying in the coolant system as I thought it was a brainless effort plumbing some hoses together. I'm rethinking that after reading this. I'm still not 100% clear but I'll do some more thinking on what your saying.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Custom Coolant Flange

Here's the coolant flange Tom built. It may work, it may be a hair long, as the tab of the Volvo oil sensor there is as far back as I can be with this custom 90 degree flange.



Got a nice bracket made for the loom/wiring harness - it seats right above the vacuum pump. Pics later.

Thanks Goldguru. I was wary of that diagram I had, and you confirmed that it's pretty different. Thanks! I will study the new diagram, which I'm stealing and reposting here

AHU/1Z coolant flow diagram "with some Euro parts that US cars don't have:"
 
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Goldguru

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Location
BC Canada
TDI
98 tracker conversion AHU
Cummins:
just rotate oil cooler to point @ the blue hose Use either coooler fitting..doesnt really matter.to get hose to line up that way U can keep the Bends down..also looking @ your turbo gasket post #105 i think that is the correct gasket for down pipe.It is for Mine ( the odd shaped 4 hole 1) for a 96-98.5 TDI
need better pic of your turbo to say about the triangle shaped 1 But Im thinking that is a turbo from a indirect injected TD (not TDI ..DI = direct injection TD = turbo Diesel.... which is the engine U appear to Have (TDI) but not sure about the turbo???..early non DI engines had a 3 bolt down pipe Flange)..Also No gasket required between manifold & turbo...Clean (NO RUST) & Flat surfaces all that is required.they will be self-sealing once they have gotten to operating temp a few times.
rear head elbow looks good...(it may be a hair long.. Thats where the HAMMER gets Used again..LOL)

Kinda not sure about your volvo O/p sender..Vw sender is straight thread sealed with copper washer,Volvo is Tapered pipe thread..Pitch & dia.( NPT vers NST..Pipe thread vers Straight).
is the same But lil bit of a gamble unless U sent a 1/8 NPT tap into the Hole before cranking it in there..Just an observation...by pic it appears to be in deep enough But is It sealed?

the pic Below contains cooling for auto trans as well as extra rad so ignore 22,20,15..pay close att to 7/33 (back of Head from heater core.32 from head to heater core.thats where U will notice my earlier Comments) .
so oil cooler HOSE 2 to 3...3 to heater core...heater core to 7 then U good to go...Hope that makes sense Now.


JayTee ..principles are the same..piping could be very differant..as for descibed above...look closer @ the link Cummins had for his & look Closely for the w/p Bypass Circiut that is the Key w/p Must be completly Flooded @ all times with reverse type systems..
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Loom Bracket

Wiring loom bracket got modified and then welded in place:


You can see that it comes out about as far as the oil sensor and coolant flange. Feeling confident in this design - spent a fair amount of time figuring it out, believe it or not. I maybe shouldn't have been so wedded to the wiring loom bracket mounting on the impossible-to-access- at-firewall coolant flange, but it will work.

Reconnected the turbo using the imperfectly shaped triangular gasket and original AHU/1Z oil send and drainback lines. I will have to slightly modify the line's exit from the AEB oil filter, but that's just a little heating and twisting and I can use the existing banjo bolt.

Goldguru, still wrapping my head around your insights. Thanks for the explanations. I am beginning to understand. Just want to get the motor in permanently and then I'll be able to figure out my custom hoses.

JayTee013, I have that passenger's side sag, too, but it's not enough to worry about, I don't think. I can still access all bolts and drains. Nothing should hit or rub unless under some pretty extreme duress. I am still going to replace the crossmember mount with TrailGear's HD mount. I am hoping that that's it, and I'll not need a third motor mount or anything else like that. I'm going to put PowerPlus 520s in for now and that's all for mods, so torque shouldn't stress it a whole hell of a lot. I will lose some tilt, and will need to be careful with and watch my oil level. Your machine's looking good.
 
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cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Orings

Question - anything recommended to apply to the oil filter cooler oring and the oring in the back of the head/coolant flange? Both orings are new. I have heard too many ideas on this subject that I simply have to ask the veterans again (I am only a veteran newby). Or do I just put 'em in and go?
 
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jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
Question - anything recommended to apply to the oil filter cooler oring and the oring in the back of the head/coolant flange? Both orings are new. I have heard too many ideas on this subject that I simply have to ask the veterans again (I am only a veteran newby). Or do I just put 'em in and go?

dry on coolant o rings that face flat....if the o ring has to slide in a hole use coolant as a lube...oil will deteriorate the rubber
 

cumminsfromthecold

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Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
dry on coolant o rings that face flat....if the o ring has to slide in a hole use coolant as a lube...oil will deteriorate the rubber
Thanks jimbote :D I jumped early in the day and used blue RTV in the o-ring seat of the coolant flange (& new o-ring) and then coated the oil cooler seal with 30 weight synthetic. Put everything together and put the motor back in, eventually connecting transmission to transfer case after permtexing the old but still healthy gasket at that connection.

Everything clears :) the custom coolant flange w hose, wiring harness and bracket, turbo oil feed line into the angled Canadian AEB oil stand, even the Mann filter clears the frame upon being unspun. Not much room to spare anywhere here at the firewall. An inch closer to the firewall and none of it would've worked. Grateful :D

I have to err on the side of caution and replace the sagging crossmember mount for the transfer case before planting the motor mounts. In its propoer spot, the t-case's passenger's side sag is that bad. It's actually leaning too much. Off-highway travel would bounce it into the crossmember. Dang. TrailGear's HD version is en route.

Viton is proving expensive at the moment. 5/16" / 8mm ID, 3mm wall Viton high temp fuel line is $15/ft from Greaseworks in OR. :eek: Resistant to 200 C and handles 250 psi +. Doing it right and once is pricey. They also have a clear nylon I'm investigating for between the filter and IP. No one else offers a clear nylon that's also biodiesel resistant online, but I didn't bother looking to far, either.

I priced McMaster Carr here. Thin 1mm walls only and it's pricey.

Grainger has lots of Viton goods but you have to buy a bulk minimum - you're going to spend over $200.

Gates has Longhorn fuel hose that's the SAE30R9 rated, a rough equivalent to Viton. Nothing smaller than 25.4mm ID though...

Napa's basic nitrile rubber fuel hose, which eventually will be dissolved by high blends of biodiesel, runs around $6/ft.

I will be experimenting a bit with high temp Viton 6mm ID, 1mm wall (very thin) between fuel tank and fuel filter. Most of that run is hardline, but there will be a couple feet on either end of that. Since I have some on hand, why not. It is definitely not as strong as 2-3mm walled fuel line.

Pics coming
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Bypassing fuel return line at fuel filter

Lots of progress to report, but working now - and I wonder about bypassing the fuel filter as I route my return line. I'd like to just run it through a hardline straight back to the fuel tank from the injector pump.

I'm using the stock TDI fuel filter from the B4, so I would just cap the return valve there.

Thanks for any insights ~
 

cumminsfromthecold

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Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Update in pics - 2 of 3 new mounts

Final firewall clearance


It's tight in there, but the lower blurry bolt from the hose clamp on the coolant flange is visible - so is the upper blurry shiny thing, the Volvo oil pressure sensor.

There is half an inch/12mm clearance at the firewall...


... at that hose's closest point.

Here is the firewall clearance from overhead


The coolant hose exiting stage right is what's closest to the firewall. Note how close the plastic PCV cap is to the truck's heater core inlet.


Here is the starter/turbo/clutch line confluence


Here's where the fuel filter now lives


Stainless steel self-tapping screws work fine for now. (Edit: this setup worked a short while, but always gave me bubbles in the line between the fuel filter and the injector pump. Cost prohibited its immediate replacement during the swap. After many waster hours, I replaced it with the big Racor mentioned later in this thread. It's heated, has a wear indicator, and a manual priming pump. Far superior to the Passat's stock set-up. It's worth noting that it's important to have a good tight seal where the return line connects to the IP. That connection being too loose can also cause excessive bubbles in the clear fuel-in line.)


And the motor is mounted!



Passenger's side mount


Passenger's side mount from underneath



Passenger's side mount from under transmission



Passenger's side mount from radiator looking toward starter





Continued...
 
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