2005 beetle intercooler pipe disconnecting

Hi Newbie here
Purchased back in September of this year. I am new to TDI.

I am having an issue with the inter cooler pipe blowing off and going into (what is described in the forms as limp mode... black smoke out back, no power) first time noticed that the pipe blew off reseated the pipe and everything was back to norm. As soon as I cranked the RPMs past 2500ish .... POP and back to limp mode. I noticed the boost pipe bracket was broken and thought this may in fact be the cause. I fabricated a new bracket to hold this in place because the old connection to the frame was broken as well(metal was broken hanging by a thread snapped off when I moved it) any way I have some photos below and I have purchased the ROSS-tech VCDS cable and installed the software. below are the codes I am getting and some photos of the broken bracket and fabrication of the new/temp bracket.

any help/ideas would be great!


Thanks
rtalboys


Wednesday,30,October,2019,11:10:18:51072
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.2.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20190930 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: 3VWCR31C35M401735 License Plate: CLN8610
Mileage: 364740km-226638mi Repair Order: 5



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Chassis Type: 1C (1C - VW New Beetle (1998 > 2010))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75

VIN: 3VWCR31C35M401735 Mileage: 364740km-226638miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Part No SW: 038 997 016 M HW: 028 101 181 3
Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000DG 2878
Revision: 12345678 Serial number: VWZ5Z0D5151193
Coding: 0150038
Shop #: WSC 07437 444 85530
VCID: 2809FF9EBEEF6347A17-5160

3 Faults Found:
18628 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P2196 - 000 - Signal too High (Rich)
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1512 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 31.0 km/h
(no units): 255.0
Temperature: 54.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 999.6 mbar
Voltage: 1.752 V
Lambda: 0.0 %

16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2142 /min
Torque: 142.0 Nm
Speed: 62.0 km/h
Load: 49.8 %
Voltage: 13.83 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Absolute Pres.: 1713.6 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 948.6 mbar

16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1449 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 67.0 km/h
Temperature: 39.6°C
(no units): 100.8
(no units): 0.62
Temperature: 83.7°C

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

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link to photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YLQ8GhCqJiun1tDQ7

You need to permanently fix your charge air pipe connections. If the little tabs on the aluminum part of the charge air hose is misshaped or worn, the hose will need to be replaced. The intercoolers hang low, and often get smashed in crashes with curbs and such. Chances are more is broken under there than you realize. You also may need a new bracket, and maybe even a new cooler if it is damaged. Can't really say without seeing it.

Yeah, all codes match an intercooler pipe popping off.
I recommend pulling the front bumper cover so you can see what's going on with the intercooler. And have better access to the boost clamps.
It might sound like a lot of work, however, it sure let's you see what you need to.
I would assume right off that you need to replace the hose and possibly the pipe it attaches to.
But then assumptions make you spend unreasonable amounts of money, so verify what is going on with a thorough investigation.

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is the link at the bottom of my post working there are photos. let me know if it is not working. also nubs on the aluminum pipe attached to the intercooler seem to have a good ridges but I am a newbie so I have nothing to compare it to other that the other pipes that are not blowing off.

will pull the front bumper cover when I get a chance perhaps tomorrow morning (work evenings) if not then on Sat don't know what it intails to remove it yet.

The NB's front end is more than the bumper cover, it is the whole front clip that gets removed as an assembly: the front fenders and bumper cover, in one big chunk. Which sounds (and looks) worse than it is. It is actually pretty easy. Hardest part is getting the headlamps out... so if you can change a headlight bulb, you can R&R the NB's front clip. Just a bunch of Torx screws mostly.

Cool already changed the headlights out and I would guess it's the t30 on top and some t20's?

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T30s, T25s, T20s, and some regular hex stuff should cover it.

The quick non-illustrated guide:

Get the front of the car up in the air a bit and remove the front wheels.

Remove the headlights

Remove the front fender liners (just a bunch of little Torx screws)

If your car has gravel guards, you'll need to remove those too.

Locate the brackets towards the rear of the car, and remove all the nut that hold them to the body. Note: the lower bracket can be left in place and removed from the underside of the fender (it has a couple Torx screws down low from underneath).

Remove the two bolts (on each side) for the upper fender supports that screw into the body. Remove the forward bracket near the meeting spot of the fender and bumper cover, note the driver's side has the air inlet tube right there. Also note, these screws are specific, be sure to pay attention where they go. The screws that hold the bumper cover and fenders together do NOT ever get disturbed (you really cannot get to them anyway).

Unplug the fog lamps, if equipped. Unplug the temp sensor (lower driver's side, down near the grill).

Unplug the left turn signal from the back side. The right side has the intercooler in the way, so I just remove the lense from the front (pry off the little square, remove the screw, pull the lense out, unplug it).

Then remove all the T30 screws running along the hood opening, note that one each side one is "hidden" in the hood cushion.

Note where all the tabs are inside the headlight bucket areas, as this will be helpful going back together. Also note the hood release lever, it too needs to go a certain way.

With a helper: pull the fenders at the rear away from the car body, you may have to wiggle a bit. Then you pull the entire assembly forward and roll it up, away from the car, taking care to keep it oriented all as one piece (no twisting). The clip will set flat on the ground right side up, I would place some cardboard or something under it if you want to protect the paint if it is not already scratched up. Take care not to grab the hood release upon removal.

Once it is off, you can easily see most all the charge air tract including the intercooler.

They are super easy to take off, and it is a good opportunity to clean everything up underneath there.

Ok does not sound to bad. I just have to wrangle up a helper for the removal part. I cm game... I will let ya know how it goes

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Was easier to remove the light bucket to get to the shot pipe attached to the Inter cooler the flanges for the cips look good and the piece looks the same on both sides. So not directional. The clips look good too. I have seen this pipe for around $35 - $60 on the net but I am wondering if it is not regulating the boost properly and cranking the boost up and it pops the pipe and the throws the low boost code. Just a theory. I'm guessing because why not the bottom side? I could flip the pipe to test that theory. Thoughts?

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Link to shared photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YLQ8GhCqJiun1tDQ7

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If the boost went too high, the ECU will pull it back down, put it in limp mode, and set an OVER boost DTC.

One of those tabs is likely not seating correctly, or the bale in the female portion of the connection is bent or tweaked or something.

Which connection is popping loose? There are eight total. Two for the double bend hose coming off the turbo, two for the one going into the intercooler, two for the one coming out of the intercooler, and two for the one going from the pipe to the intake flap.

The second connection coming out of the intercooler.

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So it could be that little shorty rubber hose, or the big plastic tube. Drawing a blank on where exactly it is on the BEW NB, but there is a bolt that holds something in that area to a tab on the body, too. If that bolt is gone or the tab is broken, it could be causing too much stress on that joint that over time wore out the ability for the tab and bale to properly connect. Those connections should make a nice, positive, audible 'click' when you install them. If they do not, there may be a problem with the latching mechanism.

Yes, I don't know what happened before I owned it but the tab has snapped off (was already broken and bent bending it back broke it completely off)and the bracket is broken from the pipe. See the link I posted for to shared photos if you get a chance. So, even if I get a new plastic pipe the tab to the body is snapped off. I have now fabricated a bracket and the pipe stopped moving under boost but you may be correct the snap is audible but not that crisp sound like the other pipes. On a side note thanks again for taking the time to help it very much appreciated.

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I ordered a new stubby pipe let's see if that works arrives friday

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I just put two self tapping sheet metal screws in it, done cost 5 cents

Thanks for the advise the stubby pipe was cheap $34 already on its way but $.5 is way cheaper. Going to try the pipe I ordered first and see if that fixes it. Take a look at the link to the pics I post earlier in thread(let me know if it does not work)I fabricated a bracket using a stainless steel plumbing clamp($6 and change) with rubber insert to just hole the upper plastic pipe and attached that to a flat steel bracket I created. ($.98) flat steel ties cut with dremel for size, vice to bend to shape and doubled it sheet metal scewed to each other for strength. Finally attached to the clamp and ground off the extra. Then attached that to frame.

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Thanks oilhammer.

This is all good stuff for me too. I have a 2004 NB BEW and I can see oil seeping down by the intercooler but I have been struggling to see exactly where it is coming from.

I'll probably wait until I get a weekend with good weather and invite a buddy over to help me lift it off so I can see what's what.

vintage red matthew said:

Thanks oilhammer.



This is all good stuff for me too. I have a 2004 NB BEW and I can see oil seeping down by the intercooler but I have been struggling to see exactly where it is coming from.



I'll probably wait until I get a weekend with good weather and invite a buddy over to help me lift it off so I can see what's what.

Click to expand...

Pull it into a carwash Bay and spray it down while it's running so new stuff can show you the truth.
When there's oil everywhere it's difficult to differentiate the possibilities

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Update. So the shorty(stubby) pipe came today. Andi compared to old and it did appear to be a little better looking than the onld one. I installed it and reinforced the bracket I made with fiberglass. Cranked it up for a drive test. Looks good so far. 2700 rpm ... Hold... No failure. Getting dark so will finish tomorrow after my son's soccer match.

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Thanks again to oilhammer. For all the help and thanks to everyone else. It's great to have all the different perspectives

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Great! Glad you got it fixed and thanks for posting back.