Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

The tools do come with the kit from DG. The 2 I have done I did on a lift. I refuse to hump out a trans on my back anymore.

wow, not looking forward to the clutch at all. also is the rear seal easy to change at that time too or do you have to pull the oil pan and crank?

clintontull said:

wow, not looking forward to the clutch at all. also is the rear seal easy to change at that time too or do you have to pull the oil pan and crank?

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You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.

If you need a rear seal, send me a PM - I bought one for just in case when I replaced my clutch, but ended up not needing it.

--Andy

Ok, just did a clutch on a 99.5 golf and ran into a tool that was not listed. Needed the 6 mm triple square to get the pressure plate off and thats the bolts that were holding it on. I spent a good portion of the day looking for one as you know when you need it, nobody has one around. I don't know if this is a LUK clutch thing, but just thought that I would pass along the info in case somebody else ran into the same thing.

Benjamin

Chemboy said:

You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.

If you need a rear seal, send me a PM - I bought one for just in case when I replaced my clutch, but ended up not needing it.

--Andy

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You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).

You don't need to take the half shaft out...but with the driver side one out...it is a breaze to get the tranny back up. Well worth the spilled oil and the 3 minutes to take it out.

i didnt have the 17mm allen wrench to get the filler plug out so took some vice grips and one of the old engine mount bolts turned it around and it fit perfectly. yep had to take the drivers side half mount out. I was so determined to get it back in without out taking it out but after an hour i should have just done it. To everyone doing this. Take it off after you are able to drop out the trans. its so much much much much easier going in and safter than destroying a clutch too

The half mount? Is that the drive axle flange that is held into the transaxle by the single 6 MM allen head bolt? I was confused about whether or not to remove these, so I removed the passenger side one because it looked like it may get hung up on the flywheel when removing the transaxle. I was afraid if I removed them, their seals may leak later.

I had no problems getting the transmission out or in with the passenger side one attached (in). If I ever have to remove the transaxle again, I think I'll try without removing either of them.

--Nate

The easiest way so far I have found is to remove the x-member completely. You gain so much room both on disassembly and reassembly. You do have to replace the control arm to ball joint, steering rack and x-member bolts and realign the car so I recommend if you decide to do it this way replace the ball joints and any other bushing or joint which is questionable this way killing 2 birds with one stone.

Doc_Oc said:

You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).

You don't need to take the half shaft out...but with the driver side one out...it is a breaze to get the tranny back up. Well worth the spilled oil and the 3 minutes to take it out.

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Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.

--Andy

Um, to get the plug out if in a bind, the wheel bolts have a 17 mm head, put the bolt in the plug, also use a 17 mm open end wrench and just make sure you have a skinny wrench and most of the bolt in the plug. You can strip the plug if not carefull so don't say I didn't warn you. I have used this before, never had a problem yet.

Chemboy said:

Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.

--Andy

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I look at the service manuals like I look at the speed limits. SUGESTIONS, just sugestions.
I did 3 seals without removing the oil pan and 2 years/100k later they are still sealing.

I can see why they say that and I agree with you that it is the best way of installing it. But the rubber in the mating face is pretty forgiving.

Welp clutch changed and the clutch was weird at first but after 800-1000 miles its back to normal and has seated it self well. NO SLIP what so ever.

In preparing for a clutch swap, do any of the other fixtures and fittings need to be replaced? I think I heard something about the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield bolts and need to be replaced?

Thanks

Rich

i held my engine up with a custom cut 4x4 and a winch strap 0 dollars

Flywheel bolts are all you really should replace but yes, there are some stretch bolts it wouldn't hurt to replace. When I did mine, I replaced the tranny mount bolts, dogbone mount bolts, the gear selector bolt and the inner CV bolts. If I was to do it again I probably wouldn't even bother replacing them though.

Well, when I did the tranny swap on my cabriolet, I propped the engine up on a breezeblock and didn't pull the flanges so I'm going to see if I can get away with that again. I also managed to get the transmission down (and up) on a flat piece of wood on top of a floor jack . Overall, I would have preferred a tranny jack but really, it wasn't that awkward without (I have seen also where someone bolted the flat piece of wood to the jack via some drilled holes. Might try that).

One thing I might do this time is pull the driver's side half-axle. That is one nut, gives a bunch of clearance and was the only thing that really caused any aggro refitting the transmission.

if none of the stretch bolts are too critical, I may skip that at this point and retro that this summer when the weather is better. I really need to sort out a Bentley.

hevster1 said:

The easiest way so far I have found is to remove the x-member completely. You gain so much room both on disassembly and reassembly. ...

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I second this remark. I had no help and finally gave up after not being able to get the transaxle back up to mate with the engine. Dropped the sub frame after removing the 4 steering rack bolts. There are only 4 large bolts needed to drop the sub frame. Replacing the subframe takes a jack on one side. Line it up and screw in one bolt finger tight. Do one on the other side. Now you can replace the last 2 bolts, and tighten everything together. These large bolts are even much easier to stretch (the last "+ 90 " turn after reaching torque) than the short flywheel bolts were.

I just wish I had dropped the sub frame on disassembly - it would have saved me hours. And you only have to replace the 4 subframe and 4 rack bolts.

2footbraker said:

Flywheel bolts are all you really should replace but yes, there are some stretch bolts it wouldn't hurt to replace. When I did mine, I replaced the tranny mount bolts, dogbone mount bolts, the gear selector bolt and the inner CV bolts. If I was to do it again I probably wouldn't even bother replacing them though.

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OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then? Could someone tell me what the torque should be on these? (I won't be able to get a manual before the parts arrive). I'm guessing they might be a bit different from a gasser Cabriolet

Also, has anyone come up with a bodgers alternative to that flywheel lock tool? Or is it something you can free-rent from Autozone? (I can always weld something up in a pinch).

Thanks

Rich

Richy_T said:

OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then?

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Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...

On Dual Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 13 NM [edit: CD version says 22... my book version of the Bentley says 13 NM... Newer update to CD also says 13...]
On Single Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 20 NM

Then there are the transmission support bolts (just like the engine support bolts that need to be replaced), and probably some of the transmission-to-engine bolts (but I can't locate that part in my Bentley right now...)

Yuri.

PS: for the flywheel lock... Wingnut improvised something from a large hookeye that went on a bolt and got wedged in the teeth of the flywheel...

ymz said:

Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...

On Dual Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 22 NM
On Single Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 20 NM

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For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:

On two-part flywheel: 13 Nm
On single piece flywheel: 20 Nm

For a flywheel holding tool I just used a piece of 1/8th thick angle iron about 4 feet long with a single hole for a pressure plate bolt in one end. Bolt it to the flywheel. As the flywheel turns while you are tightening a flywheel bolt one of the pressure plate alignment pins on the flywheel will swing around and jam against the edge of the angle iron, the other end of which is in contact with the floor. No more rotation & your flywheel bolts can be torqued properly. Works in the opposite direction too, so you can loosen the original bolts.

visionlogic said:

For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:
On two-part flywheel: 13 Nm
On single piece flywheel: 20 Nm

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So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)

My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...

Interesting...

Yuri.

I can't wait to start my clutch change now. Thank you

ymz said:

So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)
My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...
Interesting...

Click to expand...

Just downloaded a newer update... now it's back to 13 NM...

Fascinating...

Yuri.

ymz said:

So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)

My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...

Interesting...

Yuri.

Click to expand...

They changed the torque value on the engine mount big bolts as well, at some point, too--no more "plus 90 degrees" turn, but with a higher single torque value.

--Nate

Interesting. Since the pressure plate bolts aren't stretch, I'm tempted not to bother replacing them. OTOH, if the manual says to, it's cheap insurance to do it properly. I'll nip along to the stealership tomorrow and see a) if they have them in stock and b) how white my face goes when they tell me the price.

Other than that' I'll just try and get the stretch bolts that hold the transmission in. There's a lot of "always replace" items in there and I'll give good odds that no dealer actually ever replaces them.

Rich

I'd say change them, because they are very small and even a bit of corrosion can chew them fast. Also, it's not worth 4-5 hours of labour (to take the tranny out) to replace some tiny 50 cent screws

Just make sure you have the correct socket for the PP bolts. Mine required a 9 MM 12-point socket, I think.

--Nate

Same here.

I've used a 7mm or 8mm allen key stuck in one of the engine mounting holes to lock the flywheel on all 15 VW engine swaps.

OK. Everything is out finally. It was a job getting the transmission out. I would recommend removing the inner CV flanges to anyone else doing this. The right one was hard to get past the thin metal plate and the left one prevented the transmission sliding far enough to get past the clutch assembly easy. I lost quite a bit of metal from the bell housing sliding it backwards and forward. I don't think removing the flanges is completely trivial though (it was a pain to get them off on the old Cabriolet transmission) but probably worth it. I'm definitely seriously considering removing them before reinstall.

Unfortunately, I've hit a new snag. I ordered a 220 clutch kit but it looks like the one that's there is a 228 (is that a factory or aftermarket upgrade?) so unless I can scare one up today, it's probably going to be even longer until I'm back on the road

I've decided to just go with replacing the three bolts that hold the transmission mount on. Everything else should stand being reused as far as I can tell. I promise to past back here red-faced if it turns out I'm wrong

Rich