Upgrade to 5.5 litre washer fluid tank ?

I installed the audi S3 5,3l tank in my GTi. its a little slimmer on the front facing (i guess that's where the .2 luter difference comes in), which allows for more space if/when you ever need to get your hand in that area behind the headlight. /images/graemlins/smile.gif

Umm, bumper and headlight come off in 10 minutes. Only tools needed are a Torx 20 and 30 bit. No jack stands. Remove 15 bolts and lift off. It weighs no more than 5 lbs. Other than that you'll need:

- A 10mm wrench or socket for the tank hold down bolts.
- Pliers for the intercooler hose clamps.
- Flat screwdriver to release the hood release and to get the grill released.

Really, 1 hour easy start to finish by yourself. I timed it.

[ QUOTE ]
KOMET155
Veteran Member
Member # 6839



Reg'd: Oct 18 2001

Loc: Your connection for hard-to-find euro-parts >> paternos@att.net <<
Re: Upgrade to 5.5 litre washer fluid tank ? [Re: tongsli]
#581108 - Mon Sep 29 2003 11:37 AM Edit Reply Quote



I installed the audi S3 5,3l tank in my GTi. its a little slimmer on the front facing (i guess that's where the .2 luter difference comes in), which allows for more space if/when you ever need to get your hand in that area behind the headlight.



[/ QUOTE ]

Do you have the part # for that?

Since it wasn't specifically mentioned elsewhere (at least that I could find), I wanted to comment that I've just done this mod on a 2004 Jetta PD - no problems.
Holding the new tank and looking at the space it has to get into, I was a bit nervous that it wouldn't fit, that maybe something was different on the PD's, but it actually went off without any difficulty. The only casualty is an oddly shaped plastic wiring harness clip that must be trimmed to reside under the 5.5L tank (with the 3L tank, it comes up the right side).
Plan on ~3 hours to be safe; that's probably about what it took me (I did the coolant heater at the same time, so not exactly sure), and this was the first time I'd worked on the Jetta. If you already know how to get the bumper and such all off, you'll be faster. Especially if you're not working in below freezing weather... I could probably do it again in half that.
My instruction notes:

1. Drain your 3L tank! Turkey baster works great!
2. Remove engine cover (pull straight up at the front left and then front right corners, then work it over the donut at the rear centre)
   .........................................................
   [Edit: People have reported that it is not necessary to remove the bumper in order to do this install, at least on the Jetta (post 1, post2). Probably makes things easier to remove it, but adds considerable time to the project.]
3. Remove grill (just clips on, a bit tricky to remove the hood release latch - flip up the metal clip and pry open, over the pins)
4. Remove left and right lower grills
5. Remove bumper clip (4 screws in each wheel well, ~8 screws across bottom, 2 bolts behind left and right lower grills, and the bolts that were behind the grill - 3 or 5, I can't remember)
6. Pull bumper gently forward enough to rest on the ground so that you can unplug the turn signal connectors - they just pull straight out.
7. Disconnect headlamp (a real PITA - pry it off with a screw driver from the top, it really is the only way).
8. Remove headlamp (2 screws on top, 2 on bottom)
   .........................................................
9. Disconnect fuel filter (2 bolts through the sheetmetal, then lever forward to clear the sheetmetal and pull straight up - this just gives you some room to work)
10. Remove 3L washer tank nuts - one beside fuel filter, one beside intercooler (you'll need a long extension with a 10mm socket)
11. Unplug heater plug from 3L tank (just pull off).
12. Disconnect fluid pump - pry out (away from tank), then pull up - it's just a 1" nozzle that pokes through a rubber grommet.
13. Remove 3L tank (work the tank off the top mounting bolt, then the bottom - you may need to gently pry the nearby hose to get it off)
14. Remove air conduit (pull the top and side hoses from their moulded guides, and the wiring harness that runs just inside it; remove the "C" clip at top (MAF) and bottom (intercooler) - the hose pulls straight out of it's mate; you should be able to remove it completely with a bit of twisting and turning - just be mindful of nearby harness and connectors. Check out how much nasty oil is in that thing!
15. Transfer all grommets and plugs to the new 5.5L tank (don't forget the donut for the bottom!); for the heater plug (if so equipped...), pry the *plastic* part up with a screwdriver and it will pop out - be careful not to damage the grommet.
16. Remove the wiring harness clipped more or less below where the tank sits (pull straight up) - there is a vertical moulded piece of plastic that must be cut off. Remove the electrical tape and make it such that the harness will lie flat; make sure there are no sharp edges. Reinstall.
17. Take a moment to reassure yourself, while holding the new tank and looking at the small hole it needs to get into, that IT WILL FIT!
18. Disconnect the small connector beside the radiator and remove it from it's holder - this will completely free the harness, and give some wiggle room.
19. Angle the tank in, aiming for the fender. Before getting too far, install the fluid pump which is now on the back side (you may want to slightly reroute the outlet line - it just pulls off) - angle the nozzle into the grommet and insert all the way down, then push the pump towards the tank until it snaps in.
20. At this point, just work away at the tank until it is installed. Pay attention to the wiring harness, making sure it's not twisted or caught up. It's really not too bad getting the tank in.
21. That's about it - install the tank bolts, connect the heater plug, install the fuel filter bolts, install the intercooler bolts, install the air box conduit and reseat the hoses and harnesses in it, reconnect the other harness plugs, install and connect the headlight, install the bumper and grill (don't forget the indicator connections). Move the tank cap from the old tank to the new (pry it off, and note that it is "keyed" to the new tank with a slot). Install some washer fluid (don't fill it just yet, in case there happens to be a leak), and test it all out.

A worthwhile upgrade, IMO, especially if you routinely drive in salty slushy roadspray mecca's like Ottawa. Tedious, but not overly difficult. Just make sure you have a long (12") socket extension for some of the hard-to-reach bolts.
Cheers,
fitzski

I just ordered the tank from Impex. Sells for $38. Can't wait to put it in.... I'll probably add the headlamp washers later.....

Anyone simply tried to find a cheap, tasteull external resevoir and drill a hoel in it and the current washer tank so you have a reserve? I know, not stock at all, but I am cheap and like the idea of a larger capacity wahser system

Rig up some kind of chassis that you could just drop a 4L jug into... like one of the big (5 gallon?) water coolers.

Really, space is the issue. You'd need to gravity feed from your external reservoir to the OE tank, which obviously limits where things can go, unless you want to get into additional pumps and wiring.

Not sure if places like Impex have the tank, but even from the dealer, it was a worthwhile expense, IMO.

You buggers are making me order more stuff for my car.

He who has the longest list wins?

You don't need to gravity feed, just have the bottle at the same height with the hose that connects the two at the lowest point possible on the oem and your "new" resevoir. (with the oem hose being slightly lower than the new res you wouldn't have flow going back to the bottle or whatever you are using for extra space.

Its a great investment with our winter conditions here.I put one in my wife's Golf also.Wait for low level to light up and then pour in all 4 liters !
The 2 tanks I got from dealer had no hole for the level sensor,not a big deal,I had to drill a 25 mm hole to install sensor.Use silicone sealant to assure it will not leak from there.

The way I see it, the $40 it costs saves you time and aggravation plus it is OEM. Well worth it IMHO. You will be spending at least $20 in other hardware to mount your own spare reservoir. Besides, Where would you mount it? There's no room!

bump for uisge, and others ('tis the season for this worthwhile upgrade)

fitzski said:

bump for uisge, and others ('tis the season for this worthwhile upgrade)

Click to expand...

Thanks for the bump fitzski. I'll check your installation tomorrow.

It always annoyed me when I tried to refill a w/w reservoir in any car, just to find that I can't get that last 1/2 litre in. Given our salt-spray winters I should do this mod right after the TDIHeater I'll be installing on the weekend (in the snow, if things continue as they have today .)

...bump....

We did 2 of these at the house of 5 garages a few weeks back. You really dont have to remove the bumper cover. The only reason to do it is if you need to remove the headlight to take the upper IC pipe off.

No one seems to have mentioned it but the job is much much easier if you take the bolt out that holds the power steering resevoir in place. You remove that bolt and it allows movement in the power steering lines and those are what really get in the way.

Someone is working on making a PDF of the job with pictures for future reference.

david_594 said:

Someone is working on making a PDF of the job with pictures for future reference.

Click to expand...

That will be nice. My 5.5L resevoir is on its way from IMPEX right now. If it would only stop raining I might be able to get out and work on the car. It's been the wettest darn winter in recorded history for the bay area.

i'm intrested in that 5.3l Audi S3 part number instead....

anyone have it handy so i can place a order for impexfest...

BoosTDIt said:

i'm intrested in that 5.3l Audi S3 part number instead....

anyone have it handy so i can place a order for impexfest...

Click to expand...

2003 model year 5.3L container is 8L0 955 453 C

Well I finally got around to installing the new 5.5L tank. It took me quite a long time, but i think most of that time was spent trying to find my torx bits and the other tools needed for the job.

I ended up removing the bumper cover and fuel filter bracket but I pretty much followed the directions of fitzski a few posts back. I must admit I was pretty skeptical that it was going to fit, but after removing most of the front of my car it was pretty easy.

I did the swap this weekend too. For anyone with a 1.8T, removing the IC to intake hose really helps, as does unbolting the PS reservior. Removing the bumper cover and headlight helps, as you can reach through the headlight hole to guide it into place. Like Michael Moore said, VW really did build the car around the damn thing.

MOGolf said:

2003 model year 5.3L container is 8L0 955 453 C

Click to expand...

Thanks...got me an Audi one due to space limitation with my pre cooler IC pipe ...coming from impex

is the audi part number a better fit?

03_01_TDI said:

is the audi part number a better fit?

Click to expand...

Sorry , havent really seen it yet....it's on order from europe and i'm still waiting for it ...from Impex..was like $36 or something...
should be here soon.
I decided to try it out because i have alot of things [bysy compartment] in that corner...i assumed they loose the 0.2 lt in the area of the headlight...not sure .. we'll see

got quoted $30 for the 5.5l container (1J0 955 453 L) from the vw dealer in mount prospect, il.

just tell the parts department that you're vwvortex member & ask for member pricing.

order some other stuff so that you get your shipping charge worth a while.

they have average of 25-30% discount rate if i remember all the stuff that i bought over the years.

ask for richie, he's a good guy & a new dad.

Yeah, good folks at the Autobarn. I've ordered a handful of stuff, easy to deal with, fast shipping, and good prices with the Vortex discount.

I entered the part number 1J0805551E for the Euro bumper that is supposed to be better for the headlight washer install into the 1st VW web site and found it listed as the bumper for a 2004 r32. Anyone know if is really the same part?

I just put one of these in today. Word to the wise, if tapping for a boost valve or boost gauge, try to keep the tap close to the power steering reservoir, too far to the front of the car and it will interfere with the 5.5 l bottle. Luckily by 90 degree fitting has a couple of millimeters between it and the bottle so I don't have to tap my spare upper IC hose. phew!

Since this is complain about the amazing mods week.... I must say I have 1 major gripe with the 5.5L washer tank.

So the low washer fluid light comes on and I buy my 1 gallon jug and fill it up. There is still a ton of room of room in the top of the washer tank for more fluid. I feel bad that I am not filling it all the way. It could easily take close to another liter.

david_594 said:

Since this is complain about the amazing mods week.... I must say I have 1 major gripe with the 5.5L washer tank.

So the low washer fluid light comes on and I buy my 1 gallon jug and fill it up. There is still a ton of room of room in the top of the washer tank for more fluid. I feel bad that I am not filling it all the way. It could easily take close to another liter.

Click to expand...

I haven't decided if I should complain to the washer fluid bottle makers for not getting with the 21st century and making 5L bottles instead of "gallons", or undo this mod because of the added washer fluid weight killing the fuel mileage.

david_594 said:

Since this is complain about the amazing mods week.... I must say I have 1 major gripe with the 5.5L washer tank.

So the low washer fluid light comes on and I buy my 1 gallon jug and fill it up. There is still a ton of room of room in the top of the washer tank for more fluid. I feel bad that I am not filling it all the way. It could easily take close to another liter.

Click to expand...

Then buy another bottle of washer fluid, but then you'll have the infamous half-full bottle rolling around in your trunk. Hey, maybe there's a larger add-on washer fluid tank you could use so you didn't have that extra bit?