Mahoutsukai
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2002
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
The gasket on the crank case cover does not need to be replaced.jackbombay said:
ARP Head Studs
- Thread starter matiii1
- Start date
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
jasonTDI said:
Thanks, I was refering to the aluminum thing on top of the engine that your old navy CCV filter plugs into which also has the cap which you remove to add oil. It seems to go by several different names.Mahoutsukai said:
hgeittmann
Veteran Member
Damn this thread... pulling the head off scares me a little bit, but sounds like it's worth it, and how else am I going to learn... And to think I originally bought the car to save money on fuel and insurance. HA!!!
Mike_M
Veteran Member
No need to pull the head off. Just pull off the valve cover, then replace the studs one by one, like I did. Leave the head where it is...it's happy there.hgeittmann said:
Mike
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Do you mean the crank case cover?Mike_M said:
BoosTDIt
Veteran Member
you guys crack me up....the cam cover
i need to order this yesterday!
i need to order this yesterday!
jasonTDI
TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
The valve cover. It has an integrated seal that is permanent. PLEASE use a torque wrench to install it. 7 ft lbs only. That is NOT tight.jackbombay said:
Mike_M
Veteran Member
jackbombay said:Do you mean the crank case cover?
Yeah...like I said, the valve cover.BoosTDIt said:
Mike_M
Veteran Member
The way we did mine was "just a touch more than snug". That sound like 7 ft-lbs?jasonTDI said:
frugality
Top Post Dawg
7 ft-lbs isn't much. Pick up something that's about 7 pounds. A gallon of water is little over 8 pounds. If you have a 1-foot-long wrench, you need to apply 7 pounds of force, about as much force as it takes to hold up a gallon jug of water. 7 pounds at a 1-foot distance = 7 ft-lb. If you have a 6" wrench, double the force to the force it takes to hold 2 gallons of water. 14 pounds at a 1/2-foot distance also equals 7 ft-lb.
Mike_M
Veteran Member
Then mine's pretty close to being right on.frugality said:
hgeittmann
Veteran Member
Covers, valves, cranks... I don't think my car has any of those... tee hee. Thanks. I'm sold. Why not. My crying son (pictured left) will be soooo happpy when he inherits this thing 15 years from now. HA!
robnitro
Veteran Member
I ordered a set of the ARP's, as it sounds fun to install, what size is the triple square and the allen key socket?
80 ft lbs sounds like a lot for an aluminum head... any issues with the head warping from the high torque (w moly lube too, yowza)
Also, what about the retorquing of the bolts after a heat cycle, like driving around and doing it warm like oldpoopie said???
80 ft lbs sounds like a lot for an aluminum head... any issues with the head warping from the high torque (w moly lube too, yowza)
Also, what about the retorquing of the bolts after a heat cycle, like driving around and doing it warm like oldpoopie said???
jasonTDI
TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
You think 80 is tight do the NORMAL bolt install procedure. WAY tighter than that with the two 1/4 additional turns. It may not be aluminum but you should try installing a crank bolt. You have to hold onto the chassis when you tighten those.
Golf_GTDI
Veteran Member
Gimme a long lever and a firm place to stand... Anyway, 80lbs is not that bad.
Mahoutsukai
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2002
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Just a guess, but ARP seems to be the experts in this business, and they only mention one way to torque down the fasteners. Nothing is ever said about re-torqrquing them down after a heat cycle in the instructions and technical notes.robnitro said:
Mike_M
Veteran Member
Subject to fuzzy memory:robnitro said:
The Allen key for the [valve|cam|head|crankcase|whatever] cover bolts is, I believe, a 5mm.
The Allen key to take off the EGR (which you'll have to do to get to a couple of the rear bolts) is 6mm.
The triple-square is, I think (less sure than the others), 10mm? I'm pretty sure that what I used (mahoutsukai's) is a Metalnerd tool.
Mike
DanEboy
Veteran Member
When replacing studs the head gasket has already been in use for some time and has already been compressed with heat! Retorqueing is more of a concern with a new head gasket and then it still depends on the construction of the gasket. Some manufacturers say retorqueing is not necessary.
Also, on the subject of why head studs may result in increased MPG...
I understand that besides better clamping force the other benefit is by having the stud fully seated in the block you effectively spread out the force on the block thereby decreasing bore distortion. A more round bore makes for a better seal to the rings. And with 19:1 compression even a little better seal should make for more pressure on the top of the piston!
Less blowby better economy!!!
Also, on the subject of why head studs may result in increased MPG...
I understand that besides better clamping force the other benefit is by having the stud fully seated in the block you effectively spread out the force on the block thereby decreasing bore distortion. A more round bore makes for a better seal to the rings. And with 19:1 compression even a little better seal should make for more pressure on the top of the piston!
Less blowby better economy!!!
BlakGolf
Veteran Member
we have had to retorque on gassers if we didnt take the undercut option on the nuts. sounds like a interesting subject on a tdi. i had never heard about it in the short while that ive been on the forum
BoosTDIt
Veteran Member
Darn it Summit is on back order till 3/30/06
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Mine shipped out yesterday, I can't wait to put them under my Cam coverBoosTDIt said:
BoosTDIt
Veteran Member
Lucky bastardjackbombay said:Mine shipped out yesterday, I can't wait to put them under my Cam cover
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
I'm still on the fence on this mod. I've got Sprint 520s, RC3 Euro, OMI, 2.5" exhaust, making about 130/270. I get mod 40s when I drive it like I stole it. Will I really notice a difference?
mwalters
Veteran Member
What is the right ARP part number for the kit?? The pic above shows 251-4701 - that is listed to fit Ford Cosworth/Sierra 1.9L and 2.0L 4cyl. engines. There is no kit listed for the VW 1.9L TDI, only for the VR6 and the 1.8T/2.0L 4cyl. That number is 204-4701. ARP's website also does not list a kit for our beloved ALH engine.
I wish you'd quit posting this stuff - you guys are costing me alot of money
The pic above shows 251-4701 - that is listed to fit Ford Cosworth/Sierra 1.9L and 2.0L 4cyl. engines. There is no kit listed for the VW 1.9L TDI, only for the VR6 and the 1.8T/2.0L 4cyl. That number is 204-4701. ARP's website also does not list a kit for our beloved ALH engine.I wish you'd quit posting this stuff - you guys are costing me alot of money
Occams_Razor
Veteran Member
251-4701 is the correct number. It is not listed for the TDI but that number is the correct kit.
mwalters
Veteran Member
Thanks! Just ordered it from Summit, but it's still out ouf stock.Occams_Razor said:
Tentative ship date is 3/27/06.
frugality
Top Post Dawg
By then you'll be ready for the AARP head studs...mwalters said:Thanks! Just ordered it from Summit, but it's still out ouf stock.
fastvicar
Veteran Member
Mike_M
Veteran Member
According to mahoutsukai, probably. He went from low 40s to (probably) high 40s on average, and his power (and mod) level is very similar to yours. You should pick up a few MPG consistently (although, as always, YMMV).IndigoBlueWagon said:
Mike
Mahoutsukai
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2002
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Before this mod I was getting about 44MPG freeway on my 2002 Jetta TDI (Upsolute StageII/Upsolute FMIC/Sprint 520).Mike_M said:
On my car with 85K miles, driving an indicated 75MPH (cruise control locked in on this) on a non-altitude changing, relatively straight freeway (Phoenix, AZ to Tucson, AZ and back) I now get 53.3MPG after doing this modification. I now also average 43MPG in the city.